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Posted: 4/27/2024 5:32:39 PM EDT
I'm looking for alternative switches for the SG NGAL.  Ideally I'd like a TAPs style dual switch, with the LA23 plug.  I can't find them anywhere.  UT seems to have even removed them from their website.  For you guys that have spliced switches,  do you think it's possible to splice a LA23 plug onto a TAPs wire?  Reason being I am training in traditional shooting positions, where my hand fits naturally alongside the LAM, not in CQB where the "C" clamp rules.  So the TAPs just fits my needs.

Currently I have the (included) SG "modlite" switch at 9 o'clock, and another one w/SF plug mounted on rail behind LAM.  While this works, I'd prefer the TAPs.

Funny thing is, the IS NGAL came with Crane plug, which worked out nicely with a TAPs.  
Link Posted: 4/27/2024 8:04:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: shenendoah_rifleman] [#1]
No idea on the quality, but this Chinese company makes all sorts of knock offs, including just what you are looking for:

https://www.specprecision.com/tactical-flashlight-switch/specprecision-new-2024-axon-dual-romote-switch-sfngalla-23-peqcrane25mm.html#/sync_axon-ngal_la23sf_plug_black_color

Edit: whoops, I see you are specifically looking for a TAPS style. Wouldn't this one from Somogear fit the bill?

https://www.somogear.com/product/somoboat-tactical-pressure-switch/
Link Posted: 4/28/2024 10:48:07 AM EDT
[#2]
Eh, yes and no.  It really is a fucking boat; it takes up a lot of room and for what I'm not sure.  Seems to me, at least for what I'm doing, you could have one switch for the laser, with the function(s) of your choosing, and another for the frickin' light.  Why you need 3 is beyond me.  Yeah I know WL overide and all, but, for me this feature is just not worth the extra bs.  I swear if I could cut off the extra "axon" style switch, I'd do it.  It's just too much IMHO.  

And for sure, for what I'm doing, I can pair 2 x Modlite style switches, with LA23, and SF plugs.  You could fit them together, on the side, and it will work, but just seems kinda wonky.

I'm not sure why the modlite m-lok mounting screws are so off-set.  Be much simpler (maybe even thinner) to mount them on centerline.  The footprint is way wider than most common rail flats these days?

If anyone finds a UT TAPs sync w/ LA23 plug, let me know.  I've been looking for weeks and no joy.
Link Posted: 4/28/2024 12:22:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: chosos] [#3]
Link Posted: 4/28/2024 2:00:14 PM EDT
[#4]
Thanks, really good advice and I'll probably take you up on that later.  However, I got in touch with my inner Frenchy and just went for it.  Took the plug from the SG modlite and spliced it to an old SF dual switch.  And it works.  The SG plug has black, red, and white wires.  To get both momentary and constant ON, I connected red wire to center wire, and white wire to "sheath" wire, which is gathered and twisted into a lead.  Black wire is sealed off.  On center wire, used a simple splice, coated with super glue, then covered with a layer of tape insulation.  Then spliced sheath to white wire, superglued, and then shrink wrap tubed the whole thing.  

This will be concept demonstrator.  If it holds up, will get another one soldered up nicely.

Or.  

Chosos, do you think it's better to get a clean plug, and then connect that to a TAPs switch, vs splicing wires?
Link Posted: 4/29/2024 9:11:54 AM EDT
[#5]
Link Posted: 4/29/2024 4:06:25 PM EDT
[#6]
For sure that might be the best option.  I want to mod a TAPs switch so all rifles are the same.  The Somoboat might also be a donor.  

The splice has held up so far, with one whole night of use haha.  Just FYI, I made it at approx 4" so the wire crosses over the rail (from the switch), goes along the rail, and the crosses back over the rail to the plug receptable.  The splice is then hidden under the rail as it runs along it.  This is for a 9 o' clock switch mount, with LAM at 12, and light at 2:30-ish.
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