Factory Larue lower, factory Larue 6.5C 22" MGU.

So I'm in the process of swapping to a muzzle brake for use with my (rebuilt) AAC Ranger 7 .30cal can.
Based on shooting 300blk through it, the can is definitely lower backpressure now than when it was a 762SDN6, but, it is not a flow through design either, I believe there is some backpressure added, just not "a lot".  I'm not sure how that is going to carry over to 6.5C.

Before Rocksetting the muzzle device, I was wondering if I should do the gas block while I'm at it.

I've read this old thread:
https://www.ar15.com/forums/industry/SLR-adj-gas-block---LaRue-6-5-creedmoor/219-287209/

Seems like mixed results in there.
Right now, my gun runs well with all the ammo I've shot in it, both factory and ladder test reloads.  Most ejects to about 4:00 as you'd expect with a well set up .223 AR at least.
The hottest of the factory ammo I've shot ejects about straight out to 3:00 and produces a slight ejector mark.

Would you....

1) Keep the stock gas block, and switch to an H3 buffer if needed? (Lower already has an H2 in it from the factory, so not a whole lot of room to up the weight here)
2) Get the SLR adjustable

Seems some people in the above thread had undergassing issues with the SLR block even wide open, but it isn't always clear whether they've changed other things like the buffer system as well.
Thanks for any input.

Yes adjustable gas block and H3

6.5 creed vs 300 blk, the gas pressure created is much higher with 6.5, so the can you think is low back pressure probably is not.

On further reflection, I guess in this case I wouldn't need to Rocksett it since there should be no case where I would ever conceivably shoot this thing enough to get the muzzle hotter than, say, 500 degree tolerance of red locktite.  So maybe I'll go that way on this one.

SLR block is ordered.  I figure it can't hurt to give it a try.

I think that now you'll be able to counter act any ammo situation with the gas block, so it will help keep you running no matter what.

Unfortunately I have to report that like some folks in the above link, it appears I don't have enough gas to run the gun even with the SLR block all the way open.  I got about four lock-opens in 37 rounds yesterday.

Also the stock set screws are Rocksett on, I was able to break two of them loose, but the third one snapped the bit, I was unable to recover it and had to take it to a gunsmith to have the block cut off.  So all in, this is going to be a $400 adventure with the gas block, just to end up back where I started...  Obviously I'm very much wishing I never messed with it, but ymmv... experiences seem to vary.

Bummer dude. Yeah the gas blocks take some high heat on the set screws to smoke off the locktite, then they come right out.

Is the gas block lined up over the gas port correctly? If the gun was running before it should still run now, was it?

Rockset typically just takes a few good smacks with a wrench or hammer and it will shatter. At least that’s what I do with muzzle devices that have been rockset and it works great.

It was Rocksett... impervious to heat, and turns into a whiteish crunchy powder when it breaks.
Rocksett on a muzzle device that is going to be inside a suppressor, and on which you can get a large wrench and leverage, great.

Why anyone would ever rocksett a little gas block set screw is beyond me, for exactly this reason.  A little red loctite is PLENTY.  Even if you get the barrel hot enough to nominally defeat it (north of 500 degrees), it is still very gummy and the screws aren't going anywhere unless you want them to.  If you want to take it off, it can be done with a torch and a reasonable amount of torque that won't break the bit.  I'll get off that soap box now.

Anyhow, in the interest of shock-breaking the rocksett, I hit it with an impact wrench... twice, the rocksett gave, last time the bit gave.

The gun was running 100% before.  The barrel is dimpled so there is only one way to align the gas block, and I believe it is aligned.  The gas tube fit into the SLR block is pretty loose so I'm guessing it is losing significant pressure there, but that is just a guess.
New block, "gas ferrule" and ferrule tool inbound... hopefully that will bring it back to original spec.

On the upside, I think once I get into some actual load development with good components, I suspect I can find some loads that are going to shoot really well.  My plan is to try to get the rifle iterated back to stock config and make sure it is running well again like that, then I will try the can, and hopefully it is ok... if not, I'll take a fresh look at options again at that time.