So my dual-lok hardware is starting to come in, I have the adapter and three muzzle devices so far.  Unfortunately I wasn't aware that I likely needed to order this wrench:

https://www.griffinarmament.com/dual-lok-wrench/

1)  I would just like to confirm (it certainly appears) that this wrench interfaces with the rotating collar on the dual-lok adapter.  Therefore I'm assuming that moveable collar can and will be subject to significant torque during installation, and this is fine/by design?

2)  I've heard 30 ftlb is the recommended torque spec for attaching a hub adapter to a suppressor.  Is that correct/backed up by Griffin for the dual-lok adapter?
I'm planning to add a drop of Rocksett too as I don't want any chance of it unthreading and wrecking a suppressor.

Thanks

The dual lok wrench interfaces the front cap of the suppressor and was built to interface the 240mmg because they wanted a means of removing the can when it was hot.


It isn’t for installation.

Ah... good to know, thanks.
Is there a recommended wrench and or torque value for installation?

I thought a castle nut wrench might work but is too small in diameter... It looks like I have a Midwest barrel nut wrench that might work if I dremel some teeth off, but... seems so uncivilized.

Our Bushwhacker wrench has the omega spanner geometry for tightening the 1.375” mount to a can.  The torque is basically as tight as you can pinch a pair of spanners with two hands.

Some industry people give a value, but how do you fixture it for using a torque wrench?

Ah, Bushwhacker wrench, got it.

I don't have the can yet... it should be here +/- the end of the month.
In the pictures, I don't see anything on the can body to "grab" unfortunately.

I was thinking about making a set of wood vice blocks by cutting a 1.5" hole through a block of wood, cutting the block in half, and seeing if that would let me clamp the can without damage, but any additional thoughts on best practices for installation of the adapter would be appreciated.  With the can body appearing perfectly smooth, I don't think I'm going to be able to get opposing wrenches on it, unless there is something I'm not thinking of.

If the wood blocks don't work, I guess it will just be whatever torque I can get on it literally by hand.

Could you put the wrench handle in a vice and spin the can with a strapwrench?

If I'm reading your words right, NO.
This is probably the easiest way to explain it.
Attached File

Thanks, I understand that now... it appeared to me that the teeth on the "dual lok wrench" would interface with that moveable collar, which I thought was weird, but is not as it seems/the wrench is for something else.
I'll need to order that other wrench... once all the parts are here, I'm sure I'll figure something out.

That duallok wrench is for interfacing with the front of the can, in case it is too hot to remove from the gun/mount by hand.

Yes this is the correct use of that wrench and then the can has to have the three to six cuts on the outside diameter of the cap for it to interface.

A wrench should not be interfaced with the rear collar unless we later design a tool to solely unlock the hot collar.  The only way we would do that is for a military request as unlocking the hot can is not smart IMO.  The can is less likely to burn people if it is able to be carried on the end of the gun while it is hot.  But whatever the military requests of us, we will attempt to accommodate.