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Posted: 8/2/2023 10:14:30 AM EDT
[Last Edit: CCF460]
I found this pic online, but wonder if it's enough. You can manually push the barrel further back than that would allow
I am wanting to cut down a remington model 11 ( browning A5 copy). My plan is to install a cutts compensator/choke assembly on the shortened barrel. I have no idea how far back the barrels recoil into the receiver? NFA length is not a concern. I want it as short as possible, but obviously don't want the cutts to smack the forend the first time a hot load is fired. Any of you recoiling barrel experts have any suggestions? Attached File |
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Best plan it to push it back as far as it will go then give an 1/8" and make your mark.
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"Whoever makes himself great will be made humble. Whoever makes himself humble will be made great." -Jesus
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Well, the barrel recoils back to cycle the bolt. It will not recoil back further than the bolt will go back.
I hope that helps. Remington 11 thread Attached File |
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I thought about putting painters tape on the barrel and taking a slow motion video of it shooting some buckshot. I find it hard to believe that the barrel recoils over 3". You can push it back really far, manually though
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In operation, it doesn't go back until it bottoms out.
Hotter loads, worn out brake rings, and extra lube (less friction) will all make it go back slightly further. If you don't leave the extra clearance, and one day you mess up and omit/misplace a brake ring during reassembly, when it fires it's going to damage your (larger diameter) muzzle device. However if you want it as short as possible, measuring with conditions favorable to greatest travel distance should tell you what you want to know. High speed camera and tape bands, or something squishy that'll compress and stop there for a relative measurement. |
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I am not sure how much the cutts helps in regards to recoil travel. I know my two full length 11's with the cutts are soft shooters. And looking at this diagram for cutts recoil system arrangement, I tend to think it has great effect. On a separate note, this sticker is in the forearm of one my guns, wonder if it is a factory installed cutts? The receiver and stock lines in the illustration look like a model 11.
Attached File |
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Double tap
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So i cut a barrel down today. I went longer than that first pic I started the thread with. I had to permanently attach the vented portion to maintain 18". I see a custom short system in my future .
Attached File |
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Originally Posted By CCF460: So i cut a barrel down today. I went longer than that first pic I started the thread with. I had to permanently attach the vented portion to maintain 18". I see a custom short system in my future . https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/19643/148FFB22-96F3-4550-890C-BFF09E4DEA4E_jpe-3133885.JPG View Quote Looks nice with a vintage choke! How is it attached - Threaded? and is it an unusual thread pitch? Love the look of it! Cutting these down and adding a comp might increase the recoil and regardless of the friction settings, you might find it runs light loads on high brass settings. I had this happen with my 1916 Remington Model 11. You can add another friction ring (or cut another "thinner" friction ring in half) to slow it down if need be so it doesn't beat up the receiver and won't kick as hard. When I cut mine down it ran the lightest loads on the heavy setting even with new friction rings, and springs - and it kicked harder. Adding a half of a ring made it shoot with less beating itself and me up. Nice Work. |
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Never occurred to me to attempt that one but that looks pretty awesome. I would love to hear what all went into that.
I’m guessing these things cycle fine with the shorter barrels? I’ve always heard they recoil pretty heavy so I was wondering if the light barrel requires any consideration. I’ve got one I’ve been sitting on for months now. I’m thinking of just cutting it around 13”. I can’t decide if machining it for a choke, or even replacing the bead sight is worth the effort. Mine is an old one with a cracked straight stock that I haven’t been able to locate a replacement for, which is the only reason it’s been sitting in a pile. Form 1 is approved so I’m sort of committed at this point. |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: Looks nice with a vintage choke! How is it attached - Threaded? and is it an unusual thread pitch? Love the look of it! Cutting these down and adding a comp might increase the recoil and regardless of the friction settings, you might find it runs light loads on high brass settings. I had this happen with my 1916 Remington Model 11. You can add another friction ring (or cut another "thinner" friction ring in half) to slow it down if need be so it doesn't beat up the receiver and won't kick as hard. When I cut mine down it ran the lightest loads on the heavy setting even with new friction rings, and springs - and it kicked harder. Adding a half of a ring made it shoot with less beating itself and me up. Nice Work. View Quote |
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About getting your stock repaired? You might give these folks a call before you make the attempt at repair.
Might be cost prohibitive but a call will let you know. https://stoneymountaingunsmiths.com/stock-repairs/stock-repairs-refinishing/ |
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How is the cutts attached? That looks sharp, I’m about to do one of these and never even considered putting the cutts back on after chopping.
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Originally Posted By mrhufft: How is the cutts attached? That looks sharp, I’m about to do one of these and never even considered putting the cutts back on after chopping. View Quote I was going to SBS a Model 11, but now I'm thinking about just permanently attaching a Cutts at 18". You could even permanently attach one of the choke tube ends to get as short as possible, but then you'd be stuck with that choke setting. |
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Originally Posted By CCF460: So i cut a barrel down today. I went longer than that first pic I started the thread with. I had to permanently attach the vented portion to maintain 18". I see a custom short system in my future . https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/19643/148FFB22-96F3-4550-890C-BFF09E4DEA4E_jpe-3133885.JPG View Quote What is that barrel cut at, and is that Cutts steel or aluminum? |
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