User Panel
Oil - some say Kroil. Steel scrubbie from Dollar Store.
Gentle and wet. |
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yin shui si yuan
Your life is an occasion, rise to it In time we will be dancing in the streets all night. |
These are what we use at the shop in which I work:
Frontier Pads A little oil and one of these will do an awesome job and not harm the surrounding bluing. Good luck! |
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An old penny, as in mostly copper will rub it off. I had great success with this on an Ithaca 37 receiver. Didn't remove the bluing. Look into it and you'll see it's been a thing for years.
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I just use oil and a brass brush
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Kroil and either copper wool or a piece of copper wire in a loop and rub in a circular pattern. It’s not perfect but is the best to not hurt the bluing and get that rust out of there.
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oil and fine steel wool.
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If oil and steel wool does not work.
You can boil them in distilled water for 30 minutes each. This renders red oxide inert. Soak in Kerosene to displace water Oil them and card them. It won't hurt bluing. Attached File Attached File Gotta say I am a fan |
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Evaporust will remove the black oxide of the mag. Better to use the other methods detailed above.
I like a copper or brass brush and kroil. |
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I just neverdull any item rusted.
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Evaporust works great, but as has been noticed, it damages bluing. I'd just evaporust soak and scrub off a coiple times and then parkerize, but i realize not everyone has a home parking setup available.
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FPNI
I like 0000 steel wool and a liberal amount of any oil (motor oil is great). Rub tiny circles until it comes off. Keep flushing with fresh oil and change the pad's rub area so you're not rubbing stuff back into the surrounding/remaining finish as the rust comes off. The issue with copper or brass is that it often transfers onto the finish, and then you have copper or brass to rub off of there. The extra fine steel wool + oil is a "one and done" and it's less effort than boiling and carding (which works great also). |
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Originally Posted By KitBuilder: FPNI I like 0000 steel wool and a liberal amount of any oil (motor oil is great). Rub tiny circles until it comes off. Keep flushing with fresh oil and change the pad's rub area so you're not rubbing stuff back into the surrounding/remaining finish as the rust comes off. The issue with copper or brass is that it often transfers onto the finish, and then you have copper or brass to rub off of there. The extra fine steel wool + oil is a "one and done" and it's less effort than boiling and carding (which works great also). View Quote I'd have to disagree with a single part. "Any" motor oil will not do. You must use a penetrant/water displacing oil to do this correctly. If your oil does not penetrate properly, the steel will keep rusting underneath your oil layer no matter how much you scub off. Rremember, oil floats on water, unless you use something to pull all of the moisture out and cease the corrosion process, ut will just keep going. |
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Bronze wool will work better than steel wool.
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Originally Posted By APSArmament: I'd have to disagree with a single part. "Any" motor oil will not do. You must use a penetrant/water displacing oil to do this correctly. If your oil does not penetrate properly, the steel will keep rusting underneath your oil layer no matter how much you scub off. Rremember, oil floats on water, unless you use something to pull all of the moisture out and cease the corrosion process, ut will just keep going. View Quote Penetrating the rust with oil, and having oil in there hanging out with any remaining rust, isn't going to save it from rusting more in the future. It might look ok visually though (like be all black) but that's not good enough IMHO. You're absolutely right that some oils are better for this than others. Kroil is excellent. |
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This is why I spray my mags with Hornady One Shot or Eezox
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New EE sucks! Bring back the old Equipment Exchange!
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