User Panel
[Last Edit: 1245xx]
[#1]
Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Techron is the most common. Redline SL-1. A few others with Amines. View Quote I’m gonna have to check out that Techron stuff. Didn’t realize I could get it in a bottle. I was thinking I had to buy their gas and it’s pretty expensive. Edit. I don’t use oil treatments, just synthetic oil for oil changes. |
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peach fuzz
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[#2]
Ost
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[#3]
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Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
... Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman |
[#4]
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[#5]
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[#6]
This will be fun to watch.
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RIP Jeff Reed. Tennessee Squire, Ga. Carry member, NRA,Non-puking 72 ounce drinker 2 of 6 Norcal call sign, Forgotten.
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[#7]
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RIP Jeff Reed. Tennessee Squire, Ga. Carry member, NRA,Non-puking 72 ounce drinker 2 of 6 Norcal call sign, Forgotten.
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[Last Edit: Bravo_Six]
[#8]
I know mechanics who swear by BG 44K. Is that in the same category as Seafoam?
ETA: this is for fuel additive, not oil. |
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[#9]
Check your local auto parts stores. A lot of times they will sell Techron as buy one get one free so $20 for two bottles.
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[#10]
I have never added anthing to my oil and will continue put nothing but oil in my engine.
OTOH, someone once told me that that thick yellow lucas fuel additive would prevent alchohol related problems from storing small engines over the winter with fuel in them; tried it, it works, will continue. Haven't had a crusty carb or needed to drain a tank for a decade at least. |
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[#11]
In before CapnRob sets OP straight.
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[#12]
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[#13]
Thoughts on Archoil AR9100. I don't know shit about oil, but if I don't use this stuff every oil change my Ford 6.0 will have a cold engine miss like crazy from injector issues. It was recommended to me by an engine shop and it literally fixed (masked) the issue for several years now. I'm curious as to the science behind it honestly. It's the only "mechanic in a bottle" that has ever worked for me.
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[#14]
I have a neighbor that runs vintage oil in his antique cars and trucks. He still finds full cases from time to time of the old metal quarts and uses that for his oil changes.
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[#15]
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"My irritability keeps me alive and kicking" --Howard Devoto
"Didn't watch it. You don't rack up 100k posts by reading the articles before commenting on them, slow poke." --Aimless |
[#16]
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Join the VCDL https://www.vcdl.org/
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[#17]
How is PUP? Best cheap oil?
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[#18]
I always enjoy your contributions Foxtrot08.
I was in the drag racer diesel game for a long time, and your content was always spot on. |
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[#19]
Hey Foxtrot08
Seafoam must clean injectors etc. added to fuel. is Seafoam not just white gas or Naptha. What I found a true story by the way, rebuilding from scratch a 2003 5.3LS tried everything to degrease and clean carbon off of everything. Parts cleaner was no good regardless of what kind all it did was get rid of the oil did not clean, left dirt in the castings etc. Tried seafoam and shit it cleaned carbon deposits way better than a parts cleaner. Found out its white gas mostly, well, well Sea Foam is kind of expensive in a small bottle, so bought Colemans fuel in a gallon can and shit best damn cleaner i have used to clean heads, valves and the block etc. So it has to do its job in cleaning the fuel system right? |
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[#20]
Originally Posted By jmiddy: Hey Foxtrot08 Seafoam must clean injectors etc. added to fuel. is Seafoam not just white gas or Naptha. What I found a true story by the way, rebuilding from scratch a 2003 5.3LS tried everything to degrease and clean carbon off of everything. Parts cleaner was no good regardless of what kind all it did was get rid of the oil did not clean, left dirt in the castings etc. Tried seafoam and shit it cleaned carbon deposits way better than a parts cleaner. Found out its white gas mostly, well, well Sea Foam is kind of expensive in a small bottle, so bought Colemans fuel in a gallon can and shit best damn cleaner i have used to clean heads, valves and the block etc. So it has to do its job in cleaning the fuel system right? View Quote The problem with Naptha / mineral spirits / etc is simply the fact they’re not detergents. They’re solvents. They’re going into a solvent that is a like solvent. So you simply have too much dilution. Detergents have polar ends. Which will grab and soften varnish up. Which means it then can be dispersed in the solvents (gasoline.) Really ethanol is a fantastic cleaner as well. So with premium fuel, you don’t need to add too much to it. |
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Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful. |
[#21]
Originally Posted By NarcedDiver: Thoughts on Archoil AR9100. I don't know shit about oil, but if I don't use this stuff every oil change my Ford 6.0 will have a cold engine miss like crazy from injector issues. It was recommended to me by an engine shop and it literally fixed (masked) the issue for several years now. I'm curious as to the science behind it honestly. It's the only "mechanic in a bottle" that has ever worked for me. View Quote Use a better oil? We haven’t had too much of a problem with our 6.0s for that. But we are down to our last few. Really if you want to fix fix the problem, go with a stout 5w40 or a full synthetic 15w40. A lot of people get that issue and run Rotella. Rotella foams. Foaming will increase that issue. |
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Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful. |
[#22]
I always put oil in my oil.
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Carpe diem - Seize the day
Carpe per diem - Seize the expense check |
[Last Edit: Underscore_O_Three]
[#23]
My Onan 13.5kW deisel generator recommends SAE30 every 200hrs. I use Rotella because that is available at every marine supply store. It has 4000 hrs on it. Is there a recommendation to increase frequency of changes as the engine gets more use?
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I suggest we trade a question mark in for a maybe.
IA, USA
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[Last Edit: shack357]
[#24]
Originally Posted By JamPo: When you say “don’t use sea foam”, as an oil additive or does this include as a fuel additive as well? View Quote A BIG problem with people using Seafoam is the idiots who put the whole can in the oil. Read the can. Even the Seafoam people say use an ounce of Seafoam per quart of oil. ETA-I'm a no additive person too, the amount of people who just love them are unreal. Keeping oil and coolant at the proper levels will do better than any additive will. |
WARNING-this post contains words or thoughts that may at some point be discovered by the state of California to cause cancer.
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[#25]
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[#26]
I have been watching a few of his videos. pretty interesting stuff. The old oil that separated and dropped out of suspension was an interesting video.
We had a new oil lab built at work the other year and has some new equipment that we didn't have before. I get my cars oils tested when I change them but haven't sent any new oil for tests. |
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[#27]
What the fuck does OP even know about oil?!
Has Op even worked with oil in his life? |
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Always blame autocorrect.
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[#28]
Will a high ester oil help with the stuck rings in my Honda? If so, where to buy some?
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I survived the cockpocalypse of 11/21/2012.
Bacon grease, the Muslim approved .mil lubricant. |
[#29]
Originally Posted By HDLS: In before CapnRob sets OP straight. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Lol Originally Posted By Leisure_Shoot: What the fuck does OP even know about oil?! Has Op even worked with oil in his life? ...and here we go. |
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PFG #39
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[#30]
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Always blame autocorrect.
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[#31]
Healthy, hetero love, man…
Seriously. |
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Not fly enough to be halal....
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[Last Edit: jchewie1]
[#32]
ZDDP.
Would you recommend or forbid its use in a 1973 Ford tractor 3 cylinder gasoline engine (flat tappets) and that to the best of my knowledge does not have hardened valve seats? |
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[Last Edit: Foxtrot08]
[#33]
Originally Posted By jchewie1: ZDDP. Would you recommend or forbid its use in a 1973 Ford tractor 3 cylinder gasoline engine (flat tappets) and that to the best of my knowledge does not have hardened valve seats? View Quote Just use a diesel engine oil, seriously. I have a 1952 Farmall Super C. It just gets 15w40. I also have a 1948 International T6 crawler. It also, gets 15w40. It’s cheaper than gasoline oil + additives. |
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Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful. |
[#34]
Originally Posted By Underscore_O_Three: My Onan 13.5kW deisel generator recommends SAE30 every 200hrs. I use Rotella because that is available at every marine supply store. It has 4000 hrs on it. Is there a recommendation to increase frequency of changes as the engine gets more use? View Quote Nah. Something like that it’s fine. You’re doing fine. I don’t like Rotella, but if it’s easy for you to get cool. Might just change to a 10w30 is all. As those old straight weights are getting harder to find. |
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Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful. |
[#35]
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[#36]
Originally Posted By jchewie1: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Just use a diesel engine oil, seriously. I have a 1952 Farmall Super C. It just gets 15w40. I also have a 1948 International T6 crawler. It also, gets 15w40. It’s cheaper than gasoline oil + additives. Ok, thanks! Your main concern with those older engines is going to be fuel dilution from blow by. Turbo or not, simply put they’re older engines. They’re going to have some wear. They’ll keep trucking. But that will kill the oil’s viscosity which will lead to damage well before any lack of ZDDP does. Diesel engine oils typically can handle fuel dilution better. This is also why I run a “euro” engine oil with diesel ratings, on a 500hp tuned Eco boost and x2 5.0 Mustangs (2019 and 2024 - literally a week old) It’s not so much the ZDDP I’m worried about over all. It’s the robustness of the oil to hand fuel. Typically called TBN, but there’s other ways to combat fuel acids than TBN now a days. |
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Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful. |
Callsign: Doc. For my wild hair and DeLorean
OH, USA
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[#37]
My great aunt took my grandpa's 1979 F150 to a mechanic to try to revive it. It had 15 year old gas in it and the engine hadn't been turned over in that amount of time either, nor had the tires been moved. Genius mechanic apparently put Sea Foam in every orifice he could find, hoping that would magic the machine back to life. Took me a long time to un-fuck that thing. I found some of said mechanic's tools randomly laying around in the frame.
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"We're all new here, kid. The old ones are either dead or in the hospital. What the hell did you expect, a two week pass to Paris? Get in line and do what you're told, or you'll be dead before sunup."
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[#38]
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Because I like guns, now go fuck yourself!
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[#39]
As usual thank you for your time and patience.
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[#40]
View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By creeper45: Originally Posted By nvgeologist: Neat! Now how about diesel fuel additives? Diesel fuel will get worse before it gets better. As they strip the sulfur out and hydro crack it more and more. It raises the cetane significantly. We are seeing cetane tests out of refineries at 56-58. But that means there’s not going to be any additives that help it out really. With bio diesel being forcefully included, it makes up for the lack of lubricity for the pumps. |
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Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful. |
[Last Edit: alphabavo]
[#41]
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[Last Edit: Foxtrot08]
[#42]
Originally Posted By alphabavo: Does that include T6? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By alphabavo: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Nah. Something like that it’s fine. You’re doing fine. I don’t like Rotella, but if it’s easy for you to get cool. Might just change to a 10w30 is all. As those old straight weights are getting harder to find. Does that include T6? Yes. I mean the biggest issue with any Rotella is that it foams. Foaming leads to oxidation. Oxidation leads to varnish and also shearing. You can go back now close to 2 decades of posting I’ve done on here and see that I’ve said that same exact thing. He did a video at HPL’s lab a few weeks ago. Also the guy who owns HPL is legit. Nice guy. Went out of his way to visit me even though we don’t directly do business. |
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Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful. |
[#43]
Foxtrot talks
I listens. |
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[#44]
Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Assuming they have non-felt or non-cork gaskets in them, redline will work fine. You can also use the VR1 oils from Valvoline. Few other options out there depending on your price point. Heck, even a CK4 10w30 diesel engine oil meets SN ratings typically. They would be fine. View Quote I am out of the industry now, at least on a FT basis, but IIRC diesel spec oils don't have the full anti-foaming content necessary to run in higher revving IC engines - by higher revving, I mean anything over 4k rpm. Back in the day when I my people were running lube tests, it was shocking how much difference just a small change in anti-foaming additives made. It was the difference between losing the engine or trans and not losing it. In other words, not a great idea to run a diesel spec oil in any IC engine that might see some revs. |
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[#45]
Saw that video earlier as I'm subscribed. It's solid stuff.
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RIP Todd Louis Green - Help research working on a cure for cancer!
http://rampageforthecure.org/ |
[#46]
Originally Posted By VVinci: I am out of the industry now, at least on a FT basis, but IIRC diesel spec oils don't have the full anti-foaming content necessary to run in higher revving IC engines - by higher revving, I mean anything over 4k rpm. Back in the day when I my people were running lube tests, it was shocking how much difference just a small change in anti-foaming additives made. It was the difference between losing the engine or trans and not losing it. In other words, not a great idea to run a diesel spec oil in any IC engine that might see some revs. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By VVinci: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Assuming they have non-felt or non-cork gaskets in them, redline will work fine. You can also use the VR1 oils from Valvoline. Few other options out there depending on your price point. Heck, even a CK4 10w30 diesel engine oil meets SN ratings typically. They would be fine. I am out of the industry now, at least on a FT basis, but IIRC diesel spec oils don't have the full anti-foaming content necessary to run in higher revving IC engines - by higher revving, I mean anything over 4k rpm. Back in the day when I my people were running lube tests, it was shocking how much difference just a small change in anti-foaming additives made. It was the difference between losing the engine or trans and not losing it. In other words, not a great idea to run a diesel spec oil in any IC engine that might see some revs. SN rated ones typically do. But a quick oil sample or googling a VOA of one can show that. Anti foam is definitely a concern but these aren’t engines running 10,000rpms either. If they’re truly a racing engine, then spend the money on redline, HPL, driven, Etc. But for an older car before the 90s, running in a stock configuration, not with a whipple thrown on it or such. Then yeah, a modern SN rated, CK4 oil is a cheap fix. Has enough anti foam, more than enough zinc, with enough calcium to keep the acid down. But yes, any truly high performance engine should use equivalent oil. If you’re going to spend the money to build it, spend the money to maintain it properly. |
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Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful. |
[#47]
Thanks for the thread OP.
Reminds me of when I worked at the Co-Op. had an old farmer with a V-8 Cadillac(northstar?). He would either put in 15w-40 and some god awful thick yellowish orange additive or forgo it on the next and have us use straight 30. Kinda wonder how that went with all the modern oil systems lol |
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TexasRifleman1985: "Privi is good shit. Those people know how to kill people, and their ammo reflects that."
far_right: "When you shoot it, it smells like genocide. " |
[#48]
Also fun note, a lot of older “sludge” issues are directly caused by too much ZDDP in engine oils.
Zinc causes sludge. Which is why large turbine and hydraulic equipment is moving away from zinc based anti wear. I’m talking oil sumps whose volume is in the tens of thousand of gallons. Whose oil life is measured in years if not decades. Systems that cost tens of millions of dollars and even more to take down / replace / repair. The best modern hydraulic oils are zinc free. I just wrote a paper on this ironically. |
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Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful. |
[#49]
Meh, We just run 2197 in everything
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AcidGambit, I’ve always wanted to milk a lactating chick... Like make her get on her knees, milk her tits, and make her moooo.
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[#50]
Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: There are other AW packages, particularly zinc free additive packages. The cam manufacturers are not oil experts. I'm not an expert on cam shapes or geometry. I don't expect them to understand how ZDDP competes with space on engine oil parts, with different base oils and different additives. As, that's what I'm more of an expert in. But, if you absolutely had to follow that. Use a CK4 diesel engine oil, a good CK4 10w30 or if you want to go synthetic, a 5w40 engine oil. They will typically have that 1100-1300ppm out side of Chevron Delo, which maintains a universal oil rating, so is limited to 800. Chevron likes to do alot with Boron as an AW package, which is what they do with the Delo 600 ADF product. However, more indepth it depends a lot on the base oil and it's polarity. How many polar connections bond with the metals. In turn, they compete with the ZDDP package for space on the metal parts. View Quote @Foxtrot08, see my earlier question about anti-foaming content in diesel-rated oils. Is that a concern or not? No production diesel that I know of revs above 4500 or so. I know from experience that if you cross the rpm line where the anti-foaming additives can't keep up, foam formation is just about explosive. It goes from not being there hardly at all to boiling out of every orifice in seconds. WRT to cams, I wonder if you are considering that they are running in an EHL boundary condition? Roller cams run in Hertzian conditions too, but that is a rolling line contact more akin to a ball or roller bearing. The same point on the roller is never in continuous contact. However, on a flat tappet cam (is there still one in production by any first world automaker?) the Hertzian contact is continuous at the convex point on the lifter, with some spreading of the theoretical point contact into an actual patch due to both metal elasticity and the thickness of the lube layer. And there is also some sliding, similar to a hypoid gear, much more than in a roller cam. This implies the need for EP additives. I can't really think of anything else in a modern roller cam engine that would have similar EHL conditions that would require an EP or similar additive in an oil. It would make sense that the automakers eliminated any requirements for such an additive, ie, ZDDP or similar, as a cost save. All that to say, as a powertrain engineer, I can see the thought process that leads to people believing flat tappet cams need a different lube spec. The question for you is whether modern oils have the correct additive package to deal with sliding Hertzian contact in a boundary lubrication situation? I don't know, I'm asking. I suspect a lot of the modern concerns come from the fact that cams rounding off and chewing up lifters is perceived is being more common today than it was in the past. IDK if that is an oil problem, a made-in-China mfg problem, or just perception? |
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