Posted about this a while back.

Sticks anywhere from 1/8 to 1/16 out of battery.

Not a short chamber. Remove barrel and rounds  plunk in and drop out.

Sent it to RIA and they sent it back problem not solved, “doh, e’rythin’s fine.” Well… no, it’s not.

So before I unload (no pin intended) this thing on Cabela’s who will sell it to some other poor sap, help me if you can.

Like I said, rounds drop in all the way and drop out of an uninstalled barrel.

A week ago, I’m pondering this in my free time and I thought I had a flash of genius, “it’s the extractor! The channel is too narrow and it’s not letting the round line up!”

So I disassemble and place a dummy (no primer just a bullet in an empty case) under the extractor and slide the barrel into the slide and onto the round- she slides all the way home.

Now for the weird part- now in addition to failure to go into battery, the flippin round doesn't’ eject! It gets stuck like an Alabama tick and I have to push it down and drop it out of the mag well.

Any suggestions?

All the same ammo chambers and ejects fine out my M&P 2.0

Does it not function at all or is it sometimes?

Is there an ejector in the gun or broke? Is the case hitting it?

If the round isn't hitting the slide causing it not to pop out, it sounds like an ejector issue.

ETA: Causing the slide to stumble going forward.

Is your extractor tension correct? Is the claw damaged? Is the extractor the correct length?
One easy test is to load a round, take out the mag and fire the round without the mag in it. If it ejects the casing normal it should have good tension. If the casing just falls out through the magwell there is something wrong with tension or length of extractor.

Ejector looks fine. Don’t think that has anything to do with going into battery.

Swapped extractor out with an STI and the failure to go in to battery persisted.

Are you running the gun wet or dry? Swapped any springs?

I had the exact same issue with a 1911 a while back and made a similar thread. After firing, sometimes it would go 1/16th out of battery after firing. I would have to use a rubber mallet to move it back and it would eject just fine after that.

My 1911 was 30 years old at that point and worked fine up until that happened.

The only thing I can conclude is that something is off about the barrel link and the slide release. I am sort of able to replicate this if I put my finger on the slide stop on the right side where you can push in, I notice sometimes I can get it to bind just the way I describe where it is 1/16th out of battery from the fully closed position.

After changing the barrel link and slide release, it is working fine. Not sure if that is your issue but something worth checking out. I too thought it was the extractor perhaps too tight where it's not able to slide down. You can try to relieve some of the extractor tension to see if it can help as well.

Hand loads?

Reply to three posts above-

Yes, hand loads but as stated, they chamber, fire, and feed just fine in an M&P.

Springs were beefed up for said full power loads (220 hard cast and lots of powder.) But it does the same thing with coated 180s.

As for the link/slide stop- wouldn’t that cause a problem even without trying to feed a round? Gun locks up fine empty.

Just curious, have you tried a factory 45 load in the chamber?

It’s10mm.

And to restate, the rounds drop into the disassembled barrel and fall out freely.

Even placing a round under the extractor and sliding the barrel into the slide and onto the round, it seats completely.

Other than the fact that I am cursed, I can’t figure it out.

That's what Imeant.

I had another 45 on my mind when I asked that.

Sounds like your extractor is too tight and may need the edges broken where the round feeds up under it.  There are a few videos on how to tune extractors on the net & the info. below.  I've found a round placed under the extractor should not fall out when you move the slide around but have maybe slight play.  

You may also want to try other mags.  Every gun will be different on what mags they like.  

This is from Steve on another forum.
Steve in Allentown Extractor fitting

Have you checked your case length?

I had a large batch of magtech that would do exactly what you are describing in my doublestack RIA, but ran perfectly in my single stack RIA. took forever to find the issue, but all of the cases were just barely flared and maybe .001" longer than all the other brands that ran fine. Ran every round through a lee factory crimp die and it has been perfect since.

I have an Ultra Tac ll 10mm and here's a couple things I've noticed.  

The extractor is over tensioned.  It's very hard to push a round up underneath it and forget about snapping the extractor over a rim. But it feeds and ejects 100% so l live with it.  

The barrel must have a very tight chamber.  I plunk test my reloads every session and need to pull down as many as 10% and resize, reseat to get them to fit.  Some rounds I'll do this 3 or 4 times to get all of them to chamber.  I have to readjust the sizing and seating die with each attempt.  

I've narrowed down that Ammo Inc brass is the most likely to give me fits.  Starline less so.  Factory ammo, including the Ammo Inc, stuff is 100%. Never an issue.

I've purchased a taper crimp die but haven't used it yet.  

Btw, every reject round easily passes the plunk test in my XDM barrel, with ease.  And it's supposed to have a "match" barrel.  

The RIA is also the most accurate centerfire pistol l own.  The fit of the slide on the frame rails is very tight, nearly that of my friends Les Bear, with very even finish wear on all the rail surfaces.  So l live with the hassle that reloads cost me.

Thanks, but I am not a fan of finicky firearms. I’m headed to cabelas Wednesday.

That's understandable.

I view it as a challenge to overcome.  

Or boneheadedness.  

Could go either way.