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Posted: 6/8/2015 10:23:16 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DarkDrifter:
You are very confused. Calling it COMMANDER beaver tail is the issue. Actually I am not, I fully understand it. I never said there was a .250 "commander" beavertail. I said that descriptions describe govt and commander, as you pointed out in your post. Like all 1911s, there is no standard. What we do know is that the Remingtons, which CDNN describes as "commander" is a really good fit. Personally, I think it has been "explained" enough for this thread and I don't want to see this thread trainwrecked. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 6/8/2015 3:31:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: DarkDrifter]
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By d16man:
Actually I am not, I fully understand it. I never said there was a .250 "commander" beavertail. I said that descriptions describe govt and commander, as you pointed out in your post. Like all 1911s, there is no standard. What we do know is that the Remingtons, which CDNN describes as "commander" is a really good fit. Personally, I think it has been "explained" enough for this thread and I don't want to see this thread trainwrecked. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By d16man:
Originally Posted By DarkDrifter:
You are very confused. Calling it COMMANDER beaver tail is the issue. Actually I am not, I fully understand it. I never said there was a .250 "commander" beavertail. I said that descriptions describe govt and commander, as you pointed out in your post. Like all 1911s, there is no standard. What we do know is that the Remingtons, which CDNN describes as "commander" is a really good fit. Personally, I think it has been "explained" enough for this thread and I don't want to see this thread trainwrecked. Unbelievable. You don't. You seem to be very out of your element when it comes to 1911 knowledge. You do not seem at all to understand WHY that Remington grip fits.. and you continue about "commander" nonsense... WHY? Like all 1911s, there is no standard. Wrong. Incredibly wrong. There are a lot of standards, I have a pile of blueprints to show it. There are no "guarantees".. expect nothing to be "plug and play" in the aftermarket because many components are design to be FIT. And lots of manufacturers take some liberties with things like the frame contour. Foreign makes will sometimes use metric screws, which is on them. This is a 104 year old design, it was designed when labor was cheap and every one had some fitting done. There is a lot of tolerance stacking and other issues to deal with. .250" radius frame cut is "standard" with most 1911s equipped with BTs. Guess what Remington uses for their beavertail equipped 1911s?? .250" cut. Kimber? .250" cut. Ed Brown. .250". STI. .250" Dan Wesson .250".. Les Baer?? .250" radius!!!.... and a crap load others. I never said there was a .250 "commander" beavertail. No, worse, you have been telling people to "make sure" they get a "commander beavertail". And what comes up in a "commander beavertail" search? DROP IN BEAVERTAILS DESIGNED FOR COLT COMMANDERS. And I bet easily a few users bought the Wilson Drop in rather than a correct .250" radius beavertail. THAT is a trainwreck. that the Remingtons, which CDNN describes as "commander" is a really good fit. THEY SAY IT REQUIRES A COMMANDER HAMMER. Not the same thing, at all. ALL BEAVER TAILS REQUIRE SUCH, at the least, a bobbed GI hammer. Remington does NOT EVEN MAKE A COMMANDER THIS IS THE FULL SIZE M1911 THAT USES THAT BEAVER TAIL PLEASE at least read THIS WRITE UP EGW, TWO OF THESE ARE .250 RADIUS ED BROWN, THESE ARE ALL .250R, SOME ARE SERIES 80 HOWEVER LES BAER, ALL ARE .250"R SERIES 70 SMITH & ALEXANDER, ALL .250"R, SOME SERIES 70 & 80 CHIP MCCORMICK .250"R STI... .250R" NIGHTHAWK. .250" RADIUS |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 6/8/2015 3:48:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: DarkDrifter]
[#3]
PLEASE! With a cherry on top! This is all misinformation and should be disregarded and or removed from OP:
Originally Posted By GamecockOperator:
The rear tang is cut for a commander style grip safety/beavertail, not a GI. A GI will leave a gap. It is cut for a .250R" beaver tail. No such things as a .250"R commander beavertail, which is what is implied. Only beavertails available for them with oversize/UNCUT tangs are "DROP IN" MODELS. Originally Posted By d16man:
You want the commander beavertail if your frame matches the picture in the OP, as the rear tang cut will leave a gap if you use a standard beavertail. Wrong. Most common standard is in fact .250" RADIUS CUT FRAME. Originally Posted By d16man:
Originally Posted By Raven6:
So your saying no matter what gs I go with it should be the commander size and not Government? Aren't the frames the same at the rear as long as they are already cut for a .220/.250 radius beavertail? This is my 1st complete build but I own 2 Sig & 1 Springfield 1911's. Thanks for the help!!! The radius is correct, but the tangs are cut for a commander. WRONG. |
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Posted: 6/8/2015 6:12:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: d16man]
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DarkDrifter:
[ Thanks for your info, but I think the argument is solely over words at this point, and is not proving useful other than obviously getting you upset. Please don't trainwreck this thread...... edit: the rear tangs of the PSA 1911 are cut commander style, not with the GI style. They are shorter. So you will need a beavertail (.250 EGW cut as PSA stated) that will match up with that if you don't plan on mating it yourself. Can we agree on those words? Because that seems to be what we are both saying, just in different ways.... |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 6/8/2015 7:21:02 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DarkDrifter:
Judging by posts I am seeing here and at the 1911 forum, some people are very confused on this point, and the OP has been edited to be very misleading to a 1911 newbie. Some may have already bought the wrong GS if they were hunting a "commander beaver tail". There is NO SUCH THING as a .250 radius "commander style" beaver tail. Those buying "commander style" are likely buying a "Drop-in" beaver tail which is completely unnecessary. The drop-in beaver tail is designed for a Commander framed pistol WITH UNCUT COMMANDER STYLE TANGS. It is so you do not have to modify the frame tangs. Same with GI "drop-in". They are made with a bunch of added clearance as anyone can see. http://i.imgur.com/Los2zOb.jpg From top left then down: 1. GI Tangs w/ GI grip safety, Spur Hammer 2. GI Tangs w/ DROP-IN "Duck bill" grip safety, Spur Hammer Middle: 3. Commander Tangs w/ Std Cmdr grip safety, Rowel/Commander Hammer 4. Commander Tangs w/ DROP-IN "Beaver tail" grip safety, Rowel/Commander Hammer Right: 5. Bare Frame with .250"R tang cut 6. .250" Radius frame with "Beaver Tail" grip safety, Skeletonized/Commander Hammer Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DarkDrifter:
Originally Posted By autoxer240:
Originally Posted By d16man:
Originally Posted By Raven6:
So your saying no matter what gs I go with it should be the commander size and not Government? Aren't the frames the same at the rear as long as they are already cut for a .220/.250 radius beavertail? This is my 1st complete build but I own 2 Sig & 1 Springfield 1911's. Thanks for the help!!! The radius is correct, but the tangs are cut for a commander. The originator of this problem purchased a grip safety for an un-cut government profile beavertail safety and the PSA frame comes pre-cut for.250 radius. Once you cut it (.250, .220) it is no longer government profile... Therefore you will have a hard time finding a "commander" grip safety, because they are listed by radius not style. Bottom line is that .250's will fit best unless you want to radius for .220. Judging by posts I am seeing here and at the 1911 forum, some people are very confused on this point, and the OP has been edited to be very misleading to a 1911 newbie. Some may have already bought the wrong GS if they were hunting a "commander beaver tail". There is NO SUCH THING as a .250 radius "commander style" beaver tail. Those buying "commander style" are likely buying a "Drop-in" beaver tail which is completely unnecessary. The drop-in beaver tail is designed for a Commander framed pistol WITH UNCUT COMMANDER STYLE TANGS. It is so you do not have to modify the frame tangs. Same with GI "drop-in". They are made with a bunch of added clearance as anyone can see. http://i.imgur.com/Los2zOb.jpg From top left then down: 1. GI Tangs w/ GI grip safety, Spur Hammer 2. GI Tangs w/ DROP-IN "Duck bill" grip safety, Spur Hammer Middle: 3. Commander Tangs w/ Std Cmdr grip safety, Rowel/Commander Hammer 4. Commander Tangs w/ DROP-IN "Beaver tail" grip safety, Rowel/Commander Hammer Right: 5. Bare Frame with .250"R tang cut 6. .250" Radius frame with "Beaver Tail" grip safety, Skeletonized/Commander Hammer after reading yoru post, im more confused than before. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 6/8/2015 8:30:01 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GamecockOperator:
this is not necessarily true... I have an OVER 250 serial number, albeit not m uch over that, but i have front strap checkering. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GamecockOperator:
Originally Posted By SCLex:
I was told the other day that the checkering is on serial # 225 or 250 and below (can't remember the exact number). I got extremely lucky and was able to grab the only one with checkering that wasn't promised out. To top that off it has a serial # less than 100. this is not necessarily true... I have an OVER 250 serial number, albeit not m uch over that, but i have front strap checkering. My frame is in the mid 250s and checkered. |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 6/8/2015 8:45:46 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gwp:
My frame is in the mid 250s and checkered. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gwp:
Originally Posted By GamecockOperator:
Originally Posted By SCLex:
I was told the other day that the checkering is on serial # 225 or 250 and below (can't remember the exact number). I got extremely lucky and was able to grab the only one with checkering that wasn't promised out. To top that off it has a serial # less than 100. this is not necessarily true... I have an OVER 250 serial number, albeit not m uch over that, but i have front strap checkering. My frame is in the mid 250s and checkered. Maybe who I talked to misspoke or I misunderstood. It was probably the latter. I was just thrilled that they still had a checkered one left this late in the game. Are the EGW beavertails worth the extra money over the other options? I know the Remington ones are working but I can't find one in stainless anywhere. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 6/8/2015 8:49:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: DarkDrifter]
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By d16man:
Thanks for your info, but I think the argument is solely over words at this point, and is not proving useful other than obviously getting you upset. Please don't trainwreck this thread...... edit: the rear tangs of the PSA 1911 are cut commander style, not with the GI style. They are shorter. So you will need a beavertail (.250 EGW cut as PSA stated) that will match up with that if you don't plan on mating it yourself. Can we agree on those words? Because that seems to be what we are both saying, just in different ways.... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By d16man:
Originally Posted By DarkDrifter:
[ Thanks for your info, but I think the argument is solely over words at this point, and is not proving useful other than obviously getting you upset. Please don't trainwreck this thread...... edit: the rear tangs of the PSA 1911 are cut commander style, not with the GI style. They are shorter. So you will need a beavertail (.250 EGW cut as PSA stated) that will match up with that if you don't plan on mating it yourself. Can we agree on those words? Because that seems to be what we are both saying, just in different ways.... No. .250" radius is not "Commander style". It is just a .250" radius cut. Not specific to the commander in any way shape or form. At all. Don't give people misinformation. It is incorrect. Just call it a .250" radius cut, that is all it is. Nothing more. You don't NEED a beavertail either. You could use a standard grip safety, but you would "need" to use a spur hammer, "commander" hammer will hit (it would hit on a normal commander GS also) without cutting a relief. I would recommend bobbing spur hammer some too since hammer bite would MAYBE be a little more likely but that all depends on your hand size and grip. You could throw one of these on if you wanted. Nothing is stopping you. Colt "GI" Grip Safety Swenson "GI" Grip Safety ETA: Note relief in grip safety like I was talking about. .250"R frame cut will just expose more grip safety, not much else. I would personally use a BT anyway since it is already cut. 
.250" radius frame cut is not "commander style". .220" radius frame cut is not "commander style". Wilson/Clark frame cut is not "commander style". They are cuts specific to fitting beavertails. CHOO CHOO!!! Just messing with you. This will be my last reply on this subject. I just hope OP gets revised. |
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Posted: 6/9/2015 2:24:27 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SCLex: Maybe who I talked to misspoke or I misunderstood. It was probably the latter. I was just thrilled that they still had a checkered one left this late in the game. Are the EGW beavertails worth the extra money over the other options? I know the Remington ones are working but I can't find one in stainless anywhere. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SCLex: Originally Posted By gwp: Originally Posted By GamecockOperator: Originally Posted By SCLex: I was told the other day that the checkering is on serial # 225 or 250 and below (can't remember the exact number). I got extremely lucky and was able to grab the only one with checkering that wasn't promised out. To top that off it has a serial # less than 100. this is not necessarily true... I have an OVER 250 serial number, albeit not m uch over that, but i have front strap checkering. My frame is in the mid 250s and checkered. Maybe who I talked to misspoke or I misunderstood. It was probably the latter. I was just thrilled that they still had a checkered one left this late in the game. Are the EGW beavertails worth the extra money over the other options? I know the Remington ones are working but I can't find one in stainless anywhere. I may get a cheap blue on just to keep it moving and get another one later, CDNN charges a flat 10 bucks shipping so I wish I had picked it up sooner........ |
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SD, USA
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Posted: 6/9/2015 3:30:37 PM EDT
[#10]
Im not too concerned about matching colors, its all going to get cerakoted anyways if my build turns out half decent.
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Posted: 6/9/2015 4:37:24 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DarkDrifter: No. .250" radius is not "Commander style". It is just a .250" radius cut. Not specific to the commander in any way shape or form. At all. Don't give people misinformation. It is incorrect. Just call it a .250" radius cut, that is all it is. Nothing more. You don't NEED a beavertail either. You could use a standard grip safety, but you would "need" to use a spur hammer, "commander" hammer will hit (it would hit on a normal commander GS also) without cutting a relief. I would recommend bobbing spur hammer some too since hammer bite would MAYBE be a little more likely but that all depends on your hand size and grip. You could throw one of these on if you wanted. Nothing is stopping you. Colt "GI" Grip Safety Swenson "GI" Grip Safety ETA: Note relief in grip safety like I was talking about. .250"R frame cut will just expose more grip safety, not much else. I would personally use a BT anyway since it is already cut. http://i55.tinypic.com/25hkchy.jpg .250" radius frame cut is not "commander style". .220" radius frame cut is not "commander style". Wilson/Clark frame cut is not "commander style". They are cuts specific to fitting beavertails. CHOO CHOO!!! Just messing with you. This will be my last reply on this subject. I just hope OP gets revised. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DarkDrifter: Originally Posted By d16man: Originally Posted By DarkDrifter: [ Thanks for your info, but I think the argument is solely over words at this point, and is not proving useful other than obviously getting you upset. Please don't trainwreck this thread...... edit: the rear tangs of the PSA 1911 are cut commander style, not with the GI style. They are shorter. So you will need a beavertail (.250 EGW cut as PSA stated) that will match up with that if you don't plan on mating it yourself. Can we agree on those words? Because that seems to be what we are both saying, just in different ways.... No. .250" radius is not "Commander style". It is just a .250" radius cut. Not specific to the commander in any way shape or form. At all. Don't give people misinformation. It is incorrect. Just call it a .250" radius cut, that is all it is. Nothing more. You don't NEED a beavertail either. You could use a standard grip safety, but you would "need" to use a spur hammer, "commander" hammer will hit (it would hit on a normal commander GS also) without cutting a relief. I would recommend bobbing spur hammer some too since hammer bite would MAYBE be a little more likely but that all depends on your hand size and grip. You could throw one of these on if you wanted. Nothing is stopping you. Colt "GI" Grip Safety Swenson "GI" Grip Safety ETA: Note relief in grip safety like I was talking about. .250"R frame cut will just expose more grip safety, not much else. I would personally use a BT anyway since it is already cut. http://i55.tinypic.com/25hkchy.jpg .250" radius frame cut is not "commander style". .220" radius frame cut is not "commander style". Wilson/Clark frame cut is not "commander style". They are cuts specific to fitting beavertails. CHOO CHOO!!! Just messing with you. This will be my last reply on this subject. I just hope OP gets revised. I found a few I may consider buying |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 6/9/2015 10:11:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: DarkDrifter]
[#12]
Went back through this the thread to see if I missed anything...
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PharetH:
I went ahead and picked up a SS frame and slide for my second 1911 build (still working on the first 80% build). HERE is a google docs link for my build list if anybody is curious about the total cost of a build and all the parts involved. (Note: All Brownells prices are listed as Dealer pricing so it will likely end up costing you more) Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PharetH:
I went ahead and picked up a SS frame and slide for my second 1911 build (still working on the first 80% build). HERE is a google docs link for my build list if anybody is curious about the total cost of a build and all the parts involved. (Note: All Brownells prices are listed as Dealer pricing so it will likely end up costing you more) 965-000-069WB is the wrong beavertail. Won't fit. Don't even look at Wilsons, they do not make .250"R BTs. Brownells Description: Wilson/Clark compound radius requires alteration of frame; also matches Caspian radius. Originally Posted By mhode:
My carbon frame will not fit the Wilson Combat ambi safety or grip safety so some fitting will be required. I haven't connected my .250 radius jig yet but the frame will need more radius cut into it. Also the holes will need relieving slightly for the safety to go all the way in. Do you know this by measuring the frame radius? Is it a .250" radius beavertail? If not it won't ever fit. I would assume the BT you have is for a Wilson/Clark frame cut and not a .250 cut.. I have never seen a Wilson .250 BT but that doesn't mean they never made them. You may have an old one. I have to assume since you have a jig this ain't your first rodeo.. but you could also be one of those people that just bought it 'just in case' etc. Make sure it is not a just burr in the way of the safety. And might want to sand the ambi safety shaft some rather than cut the frame.. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 6/9/2015 10:41:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: DarkDrifter]
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By my2Dogs:
thanks for the links I found a few I may consider buying You're welcome. Talking about these right? EGW, TWO OF THESE ARE .250 RADIUS ED BROWN, THESE ARE ALL .250R, SOME ARE SERIES 80 HOWEVER LES BAER, ALL ARE .250"R SERIES 70 SMITH & ALEXANDER, ALL .250"R, SOME SERIES 70 & 80 CHIP MCCORMICK .250"R STI... .250R" NIGHTHAWK. .250" RADIUS Some of these will fit better than others (out of the package that is). I couldn't say which with real certainty. The factory Remington one fits decent and I would shoot for a high grip one that looks the closest to it and EGW. I am judging these purely by the "gap/flat" at the bottom of the radius. Note that Les and S&A do not have a 'flat' where the radius terminates, radius is intact without an interruption. They are oversize to fit a wider range of frames. EGW is what PSA says they modeled their frame contour from, but it will need some filing to fit because they machine theirs to an undersize .245" radius. That being said they may all need some fitting. The STI and Nighthawk might work alright. The Chip BTs are a really high grip and will probably need the frame filed to look right. I think they are highest grip BT you can get. I believe Ed Browns are similar, not sure. The Smith and Alexander BT is NOT actually "EZ-Fit" ..that is just what they call it pretty much. EZ fit in the sense that they gave you a whole lot of extra material to work with, but that depends on rear contour. This is the same story with Les Baer I believe. These might actually fit great for that reason. The rear contour on the PSA frame has a lot of 'meat'. Note how the frame tangs are still visible with Remington BT installed. ETA: Had a Smith and Alexander BT laying around lol. This is the Palmswell version. Brownells# 849-007-172WB NOTE: I DO NOT HAVE a PSA frame. This is a Kimber frame I tore down quick. Frame contour looks sort of similar. Note the gap, PSA will likely have similar and need blended to look 100%. Note the grip is "depressed". 
These are well known BT fitting guides. Second is for a Wilson/Clark cut with Wilson BT but similar principles. Ed Brown BT BlindHogg Guide Wilson BT BlindHogg Guide |
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NE, USA
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Posted: 6/10/2015 9:19:07 AM EDT
[#14]
I ended up going with a stainless Remington .250 r BT. It fits really well and was completely drop in on my frame. It could use just a touch more blending if one wanted it to look "really Pretty".
Ps- does anyone have any feedback on the PSA drop in Barrel ? Waiting to pick one up when they are back in stock. |
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Posted: 6/12/2015 7:08:30 PM EDT
[#15]
Got my Storm Lake Barrel in today...It fits really well with no fitting needed. The bushing however needed some major fitting. I haven't messed with the link yet, that is next. Just wanted to make sure the barrel hood and the lugs fit like they should.
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Posted: 6/13/2015 1:20:52 AM EDT
[#18]
Anybody got a line on the Remington stainless beavertail grip safeties? Looks like they sold out at CDNN.
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Posted: 6/13/2015 2:06:25 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AlanBolin602:
Anybody got a line on the Remington stainless beavertail grip safeties? Looks like they sold out at CDNN. GCO is in need of one as well. That is the only place I have seen them. |
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Posted: 6/13/2015 5:06:20 PM EDT
[#20]
OK here is an update on mine, trigger feels really good, but the safety does not go up with out a little force, its not crisp so I will need to take it apart and see whats the hold up, I just finished where I am about 5 min ago, had to let the SO oodle over it a little. I need sights and I have a pin left over (LOL) so if you know where it belongs let me know, its the little one next to the mainspring housing pin. the trigger has a little creep but it breaks very nice. and I have to put the plunger tube on. for those that cannot find a stainless beaver tail I picked up the blue one from CDNN for 16.99 so you can see what it looks like, the hammer is blue also, well its two tone. I think it looks fine like it is, maybe later I will have it coated. let me know what you think......
oh and finally if you have not tried that beer in the last picture its really good, its a nice dark stout and goes down smooth...... and finally II how are you guys dehorning the slide? I need to knock some of the sharp edges off this slide and frame......     |
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Posted: 6/13/2015 5:48:15 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By my2Dogs:
OK here is an update on mine, trigger feels really good, but the safety does not go up with out a little force, its not crisp so I will need to take it apart and see whats the hold up, I just finished where I am about 5 min ago, had to let the SO oodle over it a little. I need sights and I have a pin left over (LOL) so if you know where it belongs let me know, its the little one next to the mainspring housing pin. the trigger has a little creep but it breaks very nice. and I have to put the plunger tube on. for those that cannot find a stainless beaver tail I picked up the blue one from CDNN for 16.99 so you can see what it looks like, the hammer is blue also, well its two tone. I think it looks fine like it is, maybe later I will have it coated. let me know what you think......oh and finally if you have not tried that beer in the last picture its really good, its a nice dark stout and goes down smooth...... and finally II how are you guys dehorning the slide? I need to knock some of the sharp edges off this slide and frame...... http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee419/my2dogs/20150613_164908.jpg http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee419/my2dogs/20150613_164731.jpg http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee419/my2dogs/20150613_164651.jpg http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee419/my2dogs/20150612_184651.jpg Looks good! And yes, Duck Rabbit is awesome! |
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NE, USA
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Posted: 6/13/2015 7:35:09 PM EDT
[#22]
That looks like a barrel link pin. Looking good, my Ed Brown ts is also a bit hard to engage but goes down and clicks pretty easily.
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Posted: 6/13/2015 7:50:36 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By my2Dogs:
OK here is an update on mine, trigger feels really good, but the safety does not go up with out a little force, its not crisp so I will need to take it apart and see whats the hold up, I just finished where I am about 5 min ago, had to let the SO oodle over it a little. I need sights and I have a pin left over (LOL) so if you know where it belongs let me know, its the little one next to the mainspring housing pin. the trigger has a little creep but it breaks very nice. and I have to put the plunger tube on. for those that cannot find a stainless beaver tail I picked up the blue one from CDNN for 16.99 so you can see what it looks like, the hammer is blue also, well its two tone. I think it looks fine like it is, maybe later I will have it coated. let me know what you think......oh and finally if you have not tried that beer in the last picture its really good, its a nice dark stout and goes down smooth...... and finally II how are you guys dehorning the slide? I need to knock some of the sharp edges off this slide and frame...... http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee419/my2dogs/20150613_164908.jpg http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee419/my2dogs/20150613_164731.jpg http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee419/my2dogs/20150613_164651.jpg http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee419/my2dogs/20150612_184651.jpg I like it! 
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Posted: 6/13/2015 8:39:58 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Raven6:
That looks like a barrel link pin. Looking good, my Ed Brown ts is also a bit hard to engage but goes down and clicks pretty easily. Now that I think about it, it does. Did you buy the Ed Brown kit from Brownells of pins and springs? If so, it comes with a barrel link pin. My barrel came with its own, so I will have a spare as well. |
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Posted: 6/13/2015 9:15:27 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By d16man: Now that I think about it, it does. Did you buy the Ed Brown kit from Brownells of pins and springs? If so, it comes with a barrel link pin. My barrel came with its own, so I will have a spare as well. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By d16man: Originally Posted By Raven6: That looks like a barrel link pin. Looking good, my Ed Brown ts is also a bit hard to engage but goes down and clicks pretty easily. Now that I think about it, it does. Did you buy the Ed Brown kit from Brownells of pins and springs? If so, it comes with a barrel link pin. My barrel came with its own, so I will have a spare as well. well now I need to check out some sights I usually buy night sights but this will be strictly a range gun so I may just pick up some target sights. need to see how it shoots..... and get another frame and slide for build 2 |
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NE, USA
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Posted: 6/13/2015 9:25:21 PM EDT
[#26]
Yep.....i used a EB pin kit I had laying around. Still waiting on a barrel and plunger tube staking tool then ill be gtg :)
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SC, USA
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Posted: 6/14/2015 9:26:14 AM EDT
[#27]
yes i do need a stainless remington grip safety. Sadly ive been a bum when it comes to working on my 1911 thus far.
yall's builds are looking great. im envious. |
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Posted: 6/14/2015 1:04:02 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GamecockOperator:
yes i do need a stainless remington grip safety. Sadly ive been a bum when it comes to working on my 1911 thus far. yall's builds are looking great. im envious. I've heard they are some on fleabay (not mine)...but I don't buy gun parts off fleabay. |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 6/16/2015 12:15:53 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By d16man:
I've heard they are some on fleabay (not mine)...but I don't buy gun parts off fleabay. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By d16man:
Originally Posted By GamecockOperator:
yes i do need a stainless remington grip safety. Sadly ive been a bum when it comes to working on my 1911 thus far. yall's builds are looking great. im envious. I've heard they are some on fleabay (not mine)...but I don't buy gun parts off fleabay. ive looked, but never see stainless there. |
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Posted: 6/16/2015 4:50:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: my2Dogs]
[#30]
does anyone know what height the sights are? I looked at truglo tfo and they had 3 different sizes? .260/.500 .270/500 .270/450
never mind if anyone is looking its part TG131NT1 well those didnt work, not sure if they were defective or what but the rear sight just slid on the slide with no pressure at all. anyone have any sights they can recommend for this? I like the fiber optic sights, just wondering if the ones I picked up were bad or if my slide is not cut correct? |
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Posted: 6/19/2015 10:42:50 AM EDT
[#31]
There is a stainless Remington beavertail grip safety in the EE, handgun parts.
I ended up going with an EGW safety. It fits very tight, and will need a little bit of fine fitting, but overall I like it more than the Remington safety. The Remington worked on my frame as a drop in and needs no fitting, but the lines, or gaps, where it fits into the frame were too big for my liking. I'm going for a really, really, nice fit and finish with this build. |
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SD, USA
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Posted: 6/19/2015 11:23:59 AM EDT
[#32]
I have a CMC .250 radius safety coming in a few days. Hopefully it fits good because its the last part to arrive! Just need to fit that damn barrel now.
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Posted: 6/19/2015 9:15:32 PM EDT
[#33]
I will try to get some pics up this weekend if I get a chance. I have all the parts I need except sights and grips, so I am ready to start fitting everything. I went with a PSA barrel and it fits perfect. No play, great lockup, and the bushing fit is perfect.
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SC, USA
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Posted: 6/20/2015 9:43:11 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wingmanchris:
There is a stainless Remington beavertail grip safety in the EE, handgun parts.
I ended up going with an EGW safety. It fits very tight, and will need a little bit of fine fitting, but overall I like it more than the Remington safety. The Remington worked on my frame as a drop in and needs no fitting, but the lines, or gaps, where it fits into the frame were too big for my liking. I'm going for a really, really, nice fit and finish with this build. wish id of seen that yesterday. :/ |
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SD, USA
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Posted: 6/22/2015 11:09:37 AM EDT
[#35]
Heres a dumb question hopefully. What is the tiny hole near the front sight dovetail on the slide for? None of my factory 1911's have one.
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SC, USA
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Posted: 6/22/2015 1:46:41 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Hking:
Heres a dumb question hopefully. What is the tiny hole near the front sight dovetail on the slide for? None of my factory 1911's have one. if im not mistaken, for securing the front sight from the underside be it a screw or a stake. |
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IL, USA
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Posted: 6/23/2015 3:58:47 PM EDT
[#37]
Did anybody have any trouble getting the barrel to fit? It looks like I need to remove some material but I wanted to check before I make any modifications that can't be undone. This is the Ed Brown Match Drop In barrel.
I scratched an arc where I think I need to remove material. Does this look right? 
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Posted: 6/23/2015 4:19:21 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PharetH:
Did anybody have any trouble getting the barrel to fit? It looks like I need to remove some material but I wanted to check before I make any modifications that can't be undone. This is the Ed Brown Match Drop In barrel. I scratched an arc where I think I need to remove material. Does this look right? http://i.imgur.com/Es4Ir6yl.jpg My storm lake barrel did not need fitting, but I have not messed with the link yet. If you don't want to go that route, Wilson Combat sells a 5 link kit, all slightly different. |
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Posted: 6/23/2015 4:50:32 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PharetH: Did anybody have any trouble getting the barrel to fit? It looks like I need to remove some material but I wanted to check before I make any modifications that can't be undone. This is the Ed Brown Match Drop In barrel. I scratched an arc where I think I need to remove material. Does this look right? http://i.imgur.com/Es4Ir6yl.jpg |
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SD, USA
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Posted: 6/24/2015 8:56:13 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GamecockOperator:
if im not mistaken, for securing the front sight from the underside be it a screw or a stake. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GamecockOperator:
Originally Posted By Hking:
Heres a dumb question hopefully. What is the tiny hole near the front sight dovetail on the slide for? None of my factory 1911's have one. if im not mistaken, for securing the front sight from the underside be it a screw or a stake. Set screw I can see, but the hole isn't threaded so that's weird. I don't see how the hole could be used for staking the sight since you would have to insert a tool from inside the slide, which there is no room to really do anything. I sent PSA an email asking whats up but no reply yet. |
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USA
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Posted: 6/24/2015 9:52:32 AM EDT
[#41]
The hole on the slide is pre drilled for a roll pin for the Novak sight.
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Posted: 6/24/2015 11:35:23 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Singha:
The hole on the slide is pre drilled for a roll pin for the Novak sight. This....although from everything I have read, many novak sights don't need it, and it is just an extra step to insure the sight doesn't move. YMMV. |
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SD, USA
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Posted: 6/24/2015 12:38:05 PM EDT
[#43]
So you have to drill a hole in the sight I am guessing. Weird. Ill just stick with the friction fit since I have never had a problem with that.
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Posted: 6/24/2015 1:05:27 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Hking:
So you have to drill a hole in the sight I am guessing. Weird. Ill just stick with the friction fit since I have never had a problem with that. I think the sights come with a hole...I am more interested in getting the right depth sight, as there are multiple options. I also want to do suppressor height sights. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 6/24/2015 1:36:36 PM EDT
[#45]
So I'm new to 1911's and have a question about slide/frame combos. So I purchased a ss frame and a 4140 slide since the ss slides were out of stock at the time. Is there anything wrong with putting a 4140 slide on a ss frame? Should I try to exchange it for a ss slide since those are in stock now? Or is there no issue with using different materials? Thanks.
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Posted: 6/24/2015 3:13:29 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By UndercoverFed:
So I'm new to 1911's and have a question about slide/frame combos. So I purchased a ss frame and a 4140 slide since the ss slides were out of stock at the time. Is there anything wrong with putting a 4140 slide on a ss frame? Should I try to exchange it for a ss slide since those are in stock now? Or is there no issue with using different materials? Thanks. you are gtg. I put a SS slide on a carbon steel frame. |
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SD, USA
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Posted: 6/25/2015 9:04:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Hking]
[#47]
Is the rear slide cut a Novak or Novak Low Cut? Or is there even a difference?
Originally Posted By PharetH:
Did anybody have any trouble getting the barrel to fit? It looks like I need to remove some material but I wanted to check before I make any modifications that can't be undone. This is the Ed Brown Match Drop In barrel. I scratched an arc where I think I need to remove material. Does this look right? http://i.imgur.com/Es4Ir6yl.jpg My Ed Brown came with a link installed and that area far more machined down than yours looks. I did have to file that area back a little bit for the slide to close all the way. Barrel lockup is fantastic after some minor fitting on the lugs on top of the barrel. |
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IL, USA
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Posted: 6/25/2015 9:59:39 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Hking:
Is the rear slide cut a Novak or Novak Low Cut? Or is there even a difference? My Ed Brown came with a link installed and that area far more machined down than yours looks. I did have to file that area back a little bit for the slide to close all the way. Barrel lockup is fantastic after some minor fitting on the lugs on top of the barrel. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Hking:
Is the rear slide cut a Novak or Novak Low Cut? Or is there even a difference? Originally Posted By PharetH:
Did anybody have any trouble getting the barrel to fit? It looks like I need to remove some material but I wanted to check before I make any modifications that can't be undone. This is the Ed Brown Match Drop In barrel. I scratched an arc where I think I need to remove material. Does this look right? http://i.imgur.com/Es4Ir6yl.jpg My Ed Brown came with a link installed and that area far more machined down than yours looks. I did have to file that area back a little bit for the slide to close all the way. Barrel lockup is fantastic after some minor fitting on the lugs on top of the barrel. Do you think you could post up a photo if you get a chance? Mine also came with a link installed, but removed it to try the link kit. Thanks. |
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SD, USA
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Posted: 6/25/2015 9:02:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Hking]
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PharetH:
Do you think you could post up a photo if you get a chance? Mine also came with a link installed, but removed it to try the link kit. Thanks. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PharetH:
Originally Posted By Hking:
Is the rear slide cut a Novak or Novak Low Cut? Or is there even a difference? Originally Posted By PharetH:
Did anybody have any trouble getting the barrel to fit? It looks like I need to remove some material but I wanted to check before I make any modifications that can't be undone. This is the Ed Brown Match Drop In barrel. I scratched an arc where I think I need to remove material. Does this look right? http://i.imgur.com/Es4Ir6yl.jpg My Ed Brown came with a link installed and that area far more machined down than yours looks. I did have to file that area back a little bit for the slide to close all the way. Barrel lockup is fantastic after some minor fitting on the lugs on top of the barrel. Do you think you could post up a photo if you get a chance? Mine also came with a link installed, but removed it to try the link kit. Thanks. It doersnt look drastically different but your lower lugs do look thicker. This one is fitted and locks up nice and tight but not so much that racking the slide it too hard. 
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Posted: 7/3/2015 1:51:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: d16man]
[#50]
Got in a few more parts from Fusion firearms...so I spent the day fitting some things. The trigger from Fusion needed slight fitting, but the main thing I had to fit was the right side of my (remington) ambi safety. I had not messed with it prior to today. I had to file down the contact surface on the top so the safety would completely engage. Other than that, I did a mock up with a few parts and ordered some grips from VZ (They are having a July 4 sale with the coupon code, 15% off).
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