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 Water heater running short
c0t0d0s0  [Team Member]
1/17/2012 9:04:13 PM
A few days ago my house went 24 hours without water. So, I turned off power to my electric water heater and drained water from the tank to flush toilets. When water was turned back on I ran hot water until the air was out of the lines and turned power back on. It should be noted that I am not 100% sure that I refilled the tank before I turned the power on.

Now my wife and I are noticing that we seem to run out of hot water faster than we did before. I turned power back off and disconnected one wire from each heating element. VOM showed 10ohms (which I thought was odd but it matched on both elements).

Water heater is about 5 years old.

What am I missing?
thatguy  [Member]
1/17/2012 9:28:52 PM
IF you didnt fill the water heater up the entire way you may have burned out an element..

Link to procedure with meter readings


You can buy the elements and a wrench to remove the elements at Lowes/Home Depot - there are only a couple different styles..

good luck

Brian
fxntime  [Team Member]
1/17/2012 9:34:32 PM
De-power and unhook one wire from each element. The typical water heater element is about 12.9 OHMs new. Next, check each lead on the element to ground [water heater metal] all should read OL, ANY read other then that means it's bad but the ECO should pop if there is a read.

Are both thermostats set at the same temp?
c0t0d0s0  [Team Member]
1/17/2012 9:39:55 PM
Originally Posted By fxntime:
De-power and unhook one wire from each element. The typical water heater element is about 12.9 OHMs new. Next, check each lead on the element to ground [water heater metal] all should read OL, ANY read other then that means it's bad but the ECO should pop if there is a read.

Are both thermostats set at the same temp?


I got 10 Ohms on each. There is no short. Both thermostats are equal.
Jake-The-Snake  [Team Member]
1/18/2012 1:13:02 AM
how much faster are you running out of hot water?
c0t0d0s0  [Team Member]
1/18/2012 9:05:12 AM
Originally Posted By Jake-The-Snake:
how much faster are you running out of hot water?


About twice as fast...but I'm not sure.
Mousegun  [Member]
1/18/2012 9:07:02 AM
Only one heater comes on at a time. The bottom heater is for heavy usage like after a shower or hot tub use. The top is for a more instant response like to make up for a short run of hot water from a faucet.

There is a switch that operates either one of the heaters and if that switch is bad, then only one of the heaters will come on. The bottom heater is to make up for heavy usage and the top heater makes up for light usage like turning on a hot water faucet just long enough to kick in the sensor that calls for hot water.

At no point will both heaters be on at the same time. If the transfer switch fails, you may be in a condition where only one of the heaters is operating.
fxntime  [Team Member]
1/18/2012 4:15:13 PM
The only other thing causing this besides a thermostat being bad is a broken off dip tube that is mixing the hot and cold water.
c0t0d0s0  [Team Member]
1/18/2012 4:16:31 PM
Originally Posted By fxntime:
The only other thing causing this besides a thermostat being bad is a broken off dip tube that is mixing the hot and cold water.


Yea, that's what I'm afraid of.
fxntime  [Team Member]
1/18/2012 4:23:42 PM
Originally Posted By c0t0d0s0:
Originally Posted By fxntime:
The only other thing causing this besides a thermostat being bad is a broken off dip tube that is mixing the hot and cold water.


Yea, that's what I'm afraid of.



Those are dirt cheap, buy a universal one, and get change back from a $10.
thatguy  [Member]
1/20/2012 7:09:26 PM
In for an update from the OP on resolution

Badfish25  [Team Member]
1/21/2012 7:59:12 PM
We know that your upper element is working, because if it was burnt out you would have no hot water.

If your lower element is bad you will have half a tank of hot water.

I have seen bad elements that still will ohm out (I think this happens when the element breaks and is touching the side of the tank thus completing the circuit) the only real way to check a element is to see if it is pulling amps during use (a 4500 watt element will pull around 16 amps, a 3500 watt element will pull around 12 amps)

Take both covers off your heater and check the amps on both elements, check your voltage across both legs, and then one one leg to ground.

You can use a meat thermometer to check your water temp (+ or - 5 degree of what your thermostats are set at).


Badfish25  [Team Member]
1/21/2012 8:04:51 PM

Originally Posted By Mousegun:
Only one heater comes on at a time. The bottom heater is for heavy usage like after a shower or hot tub use. The top is for a more instant response like to make up for a short run of hot water from a faucet.

There is a switch that operates either one of the heaters and if that switch is bad, then only one of the heaters will come on. The bottom heater is to make up for heavy usage and the top heater makes up for light usage like turning on a hot water faucet just long enough to kick in the sensor that calls for hot water.

At no point will both heaters be on at the same time. If the transfer switch fails, you may be in a condition where only one of the heaters is operating.



Your bottom element will always come on first as that is where the cold water enters the tank. Your upper thermostat is the switch, when it is in the made position it is sending 120 volts to the lower thermostat which then controls the bottom element.

You have to use most of your hot water in order to have the top element to even turn on.