pouring a slab for a boat
I am wanting to get some advice on how thick to go with my concrete. It will be 12 by 30 and I can get fiber in the cement. 3000 psi they said. Boat will weigh in about 10k.
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I would go a nominal 4 inches. At 10,000lbs fiber is probably not necessary. Standard mix will generally be 4000psi.
Is this on a trailer?
If so you need to take the weight and tire size and divide it by the number of tires to figure out how much pressure (PSI) the boat will be exerting on the concrete.
FYI, just a gut answer without really thinking about this, I wouldn't do this without a 'turn-down' slab with wire mesh in the concrete.
If need be, I can put more thought into it if you tell me how the boat's being supported. In reality you may want to talk to an engineer (I'm a Commercial General Contractor).
.....
10k on a tandem axle trailer with about 200 pounds on the tongue jack. I was planning on putting down the mesh and then small trenches on the edges with small rebar.
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Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Is this on a trailer?
If so you need to take the weight and tire size and divide it by the number of tires to figure out how much pressure (PSI) the boat will be exerting on the concrete.
FYI, just a gut answer without really thinking about this, I wouldn't do this without a 'turn-down' slab with wire mesh in the concrete.
If need be, I can put more thought into it if you tell me how the boat's being supported. In reality you may want to talk to an engineer (I'm a Commercial General Contractor).
What does turn down mean?
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Originally Posted By midcap:
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Is this on a trailer?
If so you need to take the weight and tire size and divide it by the number of tires to figure out how much pressure (PSI) the boat will be exerting on the concrete.
FYI, just a gut answer without really thinking about this, I wouldn't do this without a 'turn-down' slab with wire mesh in the concrete.
If need be, I can put more thought into it if you tell me how the boat's being supported. In reality you may want to talk to an engineer (I'm a Commercial General Contractor).
What does turn down mean?
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Turn-down slab means the perimeter of the slab is thickened; this helps prevent cracking and shift of the edges of an exposed slab. I would make the perimeter 8-10" deep and about a foot wide.
With a tandem axle trailer, you should be well within the capabilities of the concrete however you need to consider the soil you're placing it on. Soft dirt and it'll still crack unless it's designed properly.
I'm not an engineer, and this is just for a boat, so I'd suggest a 3000-3500psi AIR ENTRAINED concrete with/without fiber and add (1) #4 bar of rebar in the thickened edge at 2" from the bottom, and welded metal wire mesh through-out the slab. Again not an engineer, just a semi-educated estimate; and I may have a tendency to err on the side of caution.
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Originally Posted By midcap:
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:o
Is this on a trailer?
If so you need to take the weight and tire size and divide it by the number of tires to figure out how much pressure (PSI) the boat will be exerting on the concrete.
FYI, just a gut answer without really thinking about this, I wouldn't do this without a 'turn-down' slab with wire mesh in the concrete.
If need be, I can put more thought into it if you tell me how the boat's being supported. In reality you may want to talk to an engineer (I'm a Commercial General Contractor).
What does turn down mean?
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Turn-down slab means the perimeter of the slab is thickened; this helps prevent cracking and shift of the edges of an exposed slab. I would make the perimeter 8-10" deep and about a foot wide.
With a tandem axle trailer, you should be well within the capabilities of the concrete however you need to consider the soil you're placing it on. Soft dirt and it'll still crack unless it's designed properly.
I'm not an engineer, and this is just for a boat, so I'd suggest a 3000-3500psi AIR ENTRAINED concrete with/without fiber and add (1) #4 bar of rebar in the thickened edge at 2" from the bottom, and welded metal wire mesh through-out the slab. Again not an engineer, just a semi-educated estimate; and I may have a tendency to err on the side of caution.
South la soil. I will have to put about a foot of sand down to make everything level. Why not use the fiber? So you're saying 4 " is going to work?
Posted Via AR15.Com MobileJust put some extra re-bar in the concrete where the tries will "track" on the slab and forget about it. 4 " will be fine.
Originally Posted By midcap:
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Originally Posted By midcap:
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:o
Is this on a trailer?
If so you need to take the weight and tire size and divide it by the number of tires to figure out how much pressure (PSI) the boat will be exerting on the concrete.
FYI, just a gut answer without really thinking about this, I wouldn't do this without a 'turn-down' slab with wire mesh in the concrete.
If need be, I can put more thought into it if you tell me how the boat's being supported. In reality you may want to talk to an engineer (I'm a Commercial General Contractor).
What does turn down mean?
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Turn-down slab means the perimeter of the slab is thickened; this helps prevent cracking and shift of the edges of an exposed slab. I would make the perimeter 8-10" deep and about a foot wide.
With a tandem axle trailer, you should be well within the capabilities of the concrete however you need to consider the soil you're placing it on. Soft dirt and it'll still crack unless it's designed properly.
I'm not an engineer, and this is just for a boat, so I'd suggest a 3000-3500psi AIR ENTRAINED concrete with/without fiber and add (1) #4 bar of rebar in the thickened edge at 2" from the bottom, and welded metal wire mesh through-out the slab. Again not an engineer, just a semi-educated estimate; and I may have a tendency to err on the side of caution.
South la soil. I will have to put about a foot of sand down to make everything level. Why not use the fiber? So you're saying 4 " is going to work?
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I used the fiber cement with no footer on the driveway leading up to the boat shed and my 7200 boat cracked the slab afer 2 years of use.
I would do what the guy above did, use a 15" wide by 12" deep footer on the perimeter with rebar and wire mesh over plastic this way if you wanted to throw a roof up later on you already have the footer down
Turn down = footings.
I would go with the footings, fiber and wire mesh. I have seen several times where slabs were poured for
covered patios or dog kennels then ended up having a shop built on top of it.
Thanks for help guys. I think I got it now.
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Your concrete is only as good as your sub base. Sub base and drainage are the key, at least in this area. Sand, or an open graded stone and somewhere for water to go. You can cheap out and go with a 4 inch slab if you spend extra in drainage, and base. I work in the earth moving business, and have plans for my future drive. The soil in my area is a heavy clay. I plan on installing some underdrain, 4 inch perforated pipe, surrounded by peastone. I will place a geotextile fabric over that stone, and then place and compact approx 8 inches of crushed concrete or limestone. Then after some use I plan on placing 6 inches of concrete for the drive. Of course I tend to overkill because I have some things that come home with me that tend to weigh a lot, and I want my slab to last. Air entrained 4000psi concrete, with some sort of reinforcing is planned
If you want a bullet proof drive, You may want to go see the prep, and thickness of concrete are standard in your area.
Originally Posted By JDavis21835:
Your concrete is only as good as your sub base. Sub base and drainage are the key, at least in this area. Sand, or an open graded stone and somewhere for water to go. You can cheap out and go with a 4 inch slab if you spend extra in drainage, and base. I work in the earth moving business, and have plans for my future drive. The soil in my area is a heavy clay. I plan on installing some underdrain, 4 inch perforated pipe, surrounded by peastone. I will place a geotextile fabric over that stone, and then place and compact approx 8 inches of crushed concrete or limestone. Then after some use I plan on placing 6 inches of concrete for the drive. Of course I tend to overkill because I have some things that come home with me that tend to weigh a lot, and I want my slab to last. Air entrained 4000psi concrete, with some sort of reinforcing is planned
If you want a bullet proof drive, You may want to go see the prep, and thickness of concrete are standard in your area.
they are actually pouring slabs for new homes in my subdivision right now. From what I saw for the driveway parts they are just putting sand down and then the mesh and then pouring a 4" slab.
