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DSC Patrol Rifle
3/12/2010 10:36:51 PM
I bought a DSC Patrol Rifle in early 2009 based solely on the articles which reviewed the gun. As I learn more about the AR15, I have questions and thought I would post them on here.
1. In looking at "The Chart" (assuming everyone knows what that is... everyone assumed I knew what it was... had NO idea (I digress)...), where does the DSC Patrol rate?
2. What is the difference between the "chrome moly lightweight barrel" and the "chrome lined barrel" other rifles have on "The Chart"?
3. Does the DSC Patrol have a M4 feed ramp?
Heck - I guess that is enough of that...
The real question is this: if I take my rifle to a class and shoot a lot, will I have issues?
Lastly - should I get a lower parts kit to have as a "spare" in case things "break"?
Is there any other advice, help, etc. anyone can provide? (i.e. upgrades, maintenance, etc.)
Thanks in advance.
Hammer
PS. As I re-read my post, I sound a bit "gruff" - not my intention at all - so I apologize if I offend anyone.
1. In looking at "The Chart" (assuming everyone knows what that is... everyone assumed I knew what it was... had NO idea (I digress)...), where does the DSC Patrol rate?
2. What is the difference between the "chrome moly lightweight barrel" and the "chrome lined barrel" other rifles have on "The Chart"?
3. Does the DSC Patrol have a M4 feed ramp?
Heck - I guess that is enough of that...
The real question is this: if I take my rifle to a class and shoot a lot, will I have issues?
Lastly - should I get a lower parts kit to have as a "spare" in case things "break"?
Is there any other advice, help, etc. anyone can provide? (i.e. upgrades, maintenance, etc.)
Thanks in advance.
Hammer
PS. As I re-read my post, I sound a bit "gruff" - not my intention at all - so I apologize if I offend anyone.
3/15/2010 10:13:39 AM
I can answer a few of the questions, add some commentary that some will take offense to 
, and help guide you to obtaining the answers to others.
2. We offer the patrol rifle either with a chrome moly LW barrel or a chrome lined barrel. Chrome lining adds to the cost and is usually the first option that people leave off.
3. We have offered the Patrol Rifle both with M-4 feed ramps & without, the easiest way to check is to lock the bolt carrier assy to the rear and look at the bottom where the barrel extension meets the upper, and if there are two grooves cut into the upper, it has M4 feed ramps.
Depending on your definition of a lot will determine the answer to that question. In semi-auto it is possible to warp a LW barrel, but you almost have to be trying. Typically that is done by running a large number of rounds in a short period of time, then leaning the rifle against something to cool. This can cause a slight POI shift, typically in the direction of the lean. I have seen this happen twice in semi, and have done it myself years ago on an old Colt SP-1 conversion, but MG's, & ammo were cheap then, and we were trying to get the old Nessard no heat shield CAR HG's to ignite. After a small phenomenal number of 30 rd. mag dumps (with the old yellow box Norinco ammo no less), I could no longer hold onto the mag well, and had to use the magazine to support the front of the weapon. The barrel surpassed white hot and at the end of the round, it slowly drooped towards the ground. We managed to get the hg's to collapse & smolder, but alas, no fire
For spares, the things I keep on hand are a spare bolt & firing pin, gas rings, extractor, extractor springs & inserts, disconnector, disconnector spring, bolt cam pin, & firing pin retainer. If you plan on changing anything out, I'd have the following extras: buffer detent & spring, takedown detent & spring, selector detent & spring. Those are the parts that you'll most likely lose or damage when you change out pistol grips or buttstocks.
Other than the items listed, I'd keep some lube on it, clean thoroughly if russian or chinese ammo is involved, and enjoy it.
Jesse
, and help guide you to obtaining the answers to others.
2. We offer the patrol rifle either with a chrome moly LW barrel or a chrome lined barrel. Chrome lining adds to the cost and is usually the first option that people leave off.
3. We have offered the Patrol Rifle both with M-4 feed ramps & without, the easiest way to check is to lock the bolt carrier assy to the rear and look at the bottom where the barrel extension meets the upper, and if there are two grooves cut into the upper, it has M4 feed ramps.
Depending on your definition of a lot will determine the answer to that question. In semi-auto it is possible to warp a LW barrel, but you almost have to be trying. Typically that is done by running a large number of rounds in a short period of time, then leaning the rifle against something to cool. This can cause a slight POI shift, typically in the direction of the lean. I have seen this happen twice in semi, and have done it myself years ago on an old Colt SP-1 conversion, but MG's, & ammo were cheap then, and we were trying to get the old Nessard no heat shield CAR HG's to ignite. After a small phenomenal number of 30 rd. mag dumps (with the old yellow box Norinco ammo no less), I could no longer hold onto the mag well, and had to use the magazine to support the front of the weapon. The barrel surpassed white hot and at the end of the round, it slowly drooped towards the ground. We managed to get the hg's to collapse & smolder, but alas, no fire
For spares, the things I keep on hand are a spare bolt & firing pin, gas rings, extractor, extractor springs & inserts, disconnector, disconnector spring, bolt cam pin, & firing pin retainer. If you plan on changing anything out, I'd have the following extras: buffer detent & spring, takedown detent & spring, selector detent & spring. Those are the parts that you'll most likely lose or damage when you change out pistol grips or buttstocks.
Other than the items listed, I'd keep some lube on it, clean thoroughly if russian or chinese ammo is involved, and enjoy it.
Jesse
3/15/2010 6:59:05 PM
Jesse - thank you for the quick reply. Regarding the list "spare bolt & firing pin, gas rings, extractor, extractor springs & inserts, disconnector, disconnector spring, bolt cam pin, & firing pin retainer" - is there a "kit" you all sell, or should I pick up the pieces?
Can I look in your catalog, or should I use someplace like Midway USA or similar?
Thanks in advance.
Hammer
Can I look in your catalog, or should I use someplace like Midway USA or similar?
Thanks in advance.
Hammer
3/16/2010 10:50:49 AM
The field repair kit has the parts that are most likely lost or will wear, they run $31.99 and includes a firing pin, 2 firing pin retainers, cam pin, 1 set of bolt gas rings, buffer detent & spring, extractor, 2 extractor spr. & pads, disconnector spr., disconnector, hammer spr. & trigger spr.
Jesse
Jesse
3/17/2010 2:11:25 PM
I ran mine through the patrol rifle instructor course at the police academy in Richmond. I did minimal maintenance (made sure the bolt was lubed) and only tore the weapon down once during the week (we got absolutely drenched during a night exercise and I don't like leaving my weapons wet). As Jesse said, the bolt, cam pin, retaining pins are good spares to have - Magpul makes a grip core that stores said items and there are a few vertical foregrips that will accomodate a bolt as well. Keep the weapon well lubed and it will work, not dripping with oil, but a nice shine. I have been involved with several rifle classes and with the exception of malfunctions from a carrier key not being staked properly, the vast majority of malfunctions were remedied by a squirt of lubricant on the bolt. The guns are made to shoot, have fun!
3/18/2010 2:45:37 AM
Originally Posted By daddyscott2001:
Keep the weapon well lubed and it will work, not dripping with oil, but a nice shine.
Keep the weapon well lubed and it will work, not dripping with oil, but a nice shine.
This is the best piece of AR15 advice on the entire internet. Keep your weapon lubed! Doublestar makes a great product, and any quality AR15 should run well with a minimum of fuss if you keep it lubed.
