I'm going to FF

I've decided that I'm going to FF my mid length and go for a recce build.

Whats the consensus between a 11' and 13' inch rail?

I'm thinking one of the troy offerings.

Have you checked out the Midwest Industries Gen2 setups.
The Troys are sweet also.

You cannot go wrong with the setup you speak of.

The troys look sick IMO. Can't tell ya anything about length though. I'm guessing its just what looks best to you.

13" or don't build it

going with the 13" alpha rail

+1

I just got a 15" Samson EVO installed. I was planning on getting an Emod to balance it out, but after tossing it around I won't need it. I was also concerned about running such a long rail regarding feel and looks but I love it. This rail is perfect for my 16".

I am not impressed with Troy rails. I have a Troy 11" trx extreme battle rail on my recent 300 blackout build. I sent it back to Troy and it doesnt lock down tight in my opinion. It came back today after they supposedly repaired it. Guess what it still doesnt lock down tight. You can bump the end of the rail with your hand aand it moves. I will not buy any more Troy rails.

My 11" & 13" Troy TRX Extreme rails have been rock-solid awesome:

I have the Troy 13" and a Rainier/Sampson 11". I prefer the Rainier but would get the 12". Only reason I went with the 11 was for suppressor clearance on my 14" barrel. They are both lite but not as solid as the JP/VTAC tube which is what I would use if the rifle was going to get bounced around alot.

The new mounting system on the Troy Alpha rails much better and uses the stock barrel nut

I'd definitely use the Alpha version over the old ones

I had a Troy 15" XTR and didn't care for the proprietary barrel nut or clamping setup. I didn't have any problems with it as it was on a target build that didn't see much use, but the tab drove me crazy when holding the weapon by the magwell and I thought the mounting system was suspect. Sounds like you should try an Alpha or a different handguard altogether. See if TROY will swap you out for an Alpha or let you trade + a little cash for one. I have dealt with their CS before and it was a pleasant experience that worked out in my favor. The Alphas are worth looking into.

Now, I have 3 of the Alpha series with the new mounting system. Uses a standard barrel nut and doesn't have that helicoil insert clamping tab that just seems to be in the way. I have the 9", 11" w/ built-in sight, and the 13". OP, you will like the 13". None of them have budged since originally installed. The 9" and 11" have both seen some rounds and have been hauled around in my work truck when I will not be crossing state lines (a lot), so they have seen plenty of bumping etc.. I'm not incredibly impressed with the built-in sight on the 11" (it leans when deployed), but I'm sure I could get by with it if the T-1 shits.

I dont want anymore Troy products. I told them I wasn't happy with it the first time
I sent it in. In the beginning they said a new rail would be shipped out. All I got was supposedly
repaired rail.

I have a 13.8" battlerail Alpha. It has the new mounting system and a built in front sight. This thing is great..
Lightweight and solid as a rock.

I just installed the 13" alpha and it's rock solid. I love the smaller diameter of the tube.

I have the Troy VTAC Alpha in 11" and I love it!

will i be good to go with a chopped FSB with this rail?

Yes, I've done it with two of the TRX Extreme rails.

Perhaps I'm missing something here. What are the advantages of going with rail lengths that almost go beyond the barrel? Are there accessories that just don't fit on 11" or 12" and some missing benefits of the added weight and bulk and heat preservation?

This 13", 14", 15" trend reminds me of kids putting 18" 19" 20" wheels and tires on their cars, when 16" and 17" rims and tires performed even better (at the time).

To me, and correct me if im wrong, the more rail you have the more real estate you have for accessories and the like. for longer shots when I first went from a carbine length to a 12" Samson/Rainier Evo free float rail I noticed a really big difference when looking through irons. I also had more areas to comfortably grip my rail either near the front sight or closer to the upper receiver for different shooting positions. Ive never tried a 14" or 15" rail but to me a 12" middy free float rail is great.

and when it comes to rims sometimes its form>function haha cant say the same for ARs tho

My PSA mid-length upper with 13" Troy rail should be here tomorrow. I will let you know what I think.

I run a long tube because I like to be able to get a hold of my gun as close to the muzzle as possible.

OK, I guess that makes sense, if you've got long arms, but if you're gripping the rail, and the rail has the front sight (or optics base), and there's any movement of the rail relative to the barrel, you might be defeating the benefits of the free float.

Longer sight radius.
Ability to grip further out.
More rest area that's deflection free.
Less area to be burned.
Ability to mount a light further out for less shadowing.

I tried pushing just the rail with the receiver in a vice and if there was movement I couldn't tell. If I push on the rail and the barrel, the barrel moves. That's with a significant amount of force, that being the same amount with out the rail installed. I didn't use a micrometer but the barrel went back to the same position when the pressure was alleviated. I guess that's a downfall to FF as if the sight doesn't move with the barrel it can impact zero if either is stressed. I'm sure most people with FF rails are running optics like myself though. In essence the FF rail is more to protect the barrel from deflection anyways.

If it's significant enough to throw off your sights, that's a problem all on it's own.... long grip or not.

Its a non-issue with quality rails/tubes.

It's trickery. The barrel movement is most effected at the muzzle. The longer rail makes this the most apparent but the rail has nothing to do with the rigidity of the barrel. People tend to fucus on the end of the hanguard which is irrelevant, but a common mistake. Deflection at the muzzle is the important, but often ignored issue. That's why we have FF handguards is to protect the barrel from external stresses that cause this deflection.

Rail mounted free floating sights are a weakness and there's no way around it. That shouldn't matter though as free floating is oriented towards optics anyways. At the end of the day the stress needed to inflict serious zero issues is rare.

That's just another reason why I like monolithic rails that piggy back directly to the receiver. I also like long rails because the less area for the barrel to make external contact the better for my optic and barrel to maintain their consistency.

Midwest Industries 12" real with fsb cut-out. Next build will have a low pro gas block since I can't decide if I want only flip-ups. Rock solid and super light rail btw

Nice. Some folks say the non-pinned gas blocks aren't as reliable as pinned A2 types. Keep that in mind.

I chopped my FSB when I installed the 13.8" Troy Battlerail Alpha with the integral front sight.. On a middy, the integral folding front sight lands right where the FSB is, so you wind up cutting and grinding a lot more than you would think.. but it works like a champ

very nice


PETE
MI

Pete,

It would be great if MI came out with a set of 2 piece FF rails that didn't need the delta ring cut off, like DD Omegas and others.

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