Archived Posts ｻ 59,726,163
Is there something special about welding stainless steel?
5/22/2012 1:29:27 AM
I recently took a Spike's Dynacomp to be pinned and welded to a local gunsmith. Before I decided to have it done, I was telling him I wasn't completely sure about having it pinned and welded since some people had complained about erosion issues with the same part. He offered to install a Phantom, but since I had already spent the money on the Dynacomp I decided to have him just install that one.
When I called to ask if it was ready to be picked up, he said he realized why they were not holding up to heavy use. He said a lot of manufacturers are going to stainless steel when they are making parts because it is cheaper, and that it is harder to weld, and doesn't hold up as well in the long run. He said he realized it when he was trying to weld it, and especially when he tried to refinish the ground down area where he welded it. The bluing took to the weld, but not the surrounding area where he had cleaned the finish off of the stainless.
So are these guys really going cheap by using stainless, or is this guy just behind the times?
When I called to ask if it was ready to be picked up, he said he realized why they were not holding up to heavy use. He said a lot of manufacturers are going to stainless steel when they are making parts because it is cheaper, and that it is harder to weld, and doesn't hold up as well in the long run. He said he realized it when he was trying to weld it, and especially when he tried to refinish the ground down area where he welded it. The bluing took to the weld, but not the surrounding area where he had cleaned the finish off of the stainless.
So are these guys really going cheap by using stainless, or is this guy just behind the times?
5/22/2012 5:28:38 AM
why doesnt a stainless comp hold up in the long run? that doesnt make any sense. any welder who can call themselves a welder can weld stainless.... but if you are setup for regular steel, it isnt going to work right. I work for a large truck mfr, and we use a LOT of stainless for different panels... it isnt to save money I can tell you that.
5/22/2012 6:27:25 AM
They make entire guns out of stainless steel. I don't think high quality 1911s would be made out of it if it were crap.
5/22/2012 9:40:30 AM
welding is an art form to itself. I can weld the crap outta some big thick 1 1/2" plate. give me some 16ga sheet and I'll screw it up every time.
5/22/2012 10:00:50 AM
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
I recently took a Spike's Dynacomp to be pinned and welded to a local gunsmith. Before I decided to have it done, I was telling him I wasn't completely sure about having it pinned and welded since some people had complained about erosion issues with the same part. He offered to install a Phantom, but since I had already spent the money on the Dynacomp I decided to have him just install that one.
When I called to ask if it was ready to be picked up, he said he realized why they were not holding up to heavy use. He said a lot of manufacturers are going to stainless steel when they are making parts because it is cheaper, and that it is harder to weld, and doesn't hold up as well in the long run. He said he realized it when he was trying to weld it, and especially when he tried to refinish the ground down area where he welded it. The bluing took to the weld, but not the surrounding area where he had cleaned the finish off of the stainless.
So are these guys really going cheap by using stainless, or is this guy just behind the times?
I recently took a Spike's Dynacomp to be pinned and welded to a local gunsmith. Before I decided to have it done, I was telling him I wasn't completely sure about having it pinned and welded since some people had complained about erosion issues with the same part. He offered to install a Phantom, but since I had already spent the money on the Dynacomp I decided to have him just install that one.
When I called to ask if it was ready to be picked up, he said he realized why they were not holding up to heavy use. He said a lot of manufacturers are going to stainless steel when they are making parts because it is cheaper, and that it is harder to weld, and doesn't hold up as well in the long run. He said he realized it when he was trying to weld it, and especially when he tried to refinish the ground down area where he welded it. The bluing took to the weld, but not the surrounding area where he had cleaned the finish off of the stainless.
So are these guys really going cheap by using stainless, or is this guy just behind the times?
Sounds to me like he was trying to cover up his problems/incompetence with a line of bullshit, to put it plainly.
Last time I looked stainless was not cheap and would be a good choice for a part like that.
If stainless was not good with constant exposure to hot gasses it wouldn't be the material of choice for gas tubes.
Find out what welding process he used, then call/email Spikes and see what finish will work.
5/22/2012 10:24:38 AM
How is he trying to weld it? I have a relatively cheap DC TIG welder and can weld stainless OK (not as easily as mild steel, but OK). Also, how is he trying to blue the stainless? IIRC stainless can only be blued with specialty salts in a HOT blue process... depending on the alloy, it likely won't take to cold bluing well. I would use spray-n-bake paint myself.
5/22/2012 4:32:49 PM
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
I recently took a Spike's Dynacomp to be pinned and welded to a local gunsmith. Before I decided to have it done, I was telling him I wasn't completely sure about having it pinned and welded since some people had complained about erosion issues with the same part. He offered to install a Phantom, but since I had already spent the money on the Dynacomp I decided to have him just install that one.
When I called to ask if it was ready to be picked up, he said he realized why they were not holding up to heavy use. He said a lot of manufacturers are going to stainless steel when they are making parts because it is cheaper, and that it is harder to weld, and doesn't hold up as well in the long run. He said he realized it when he was trying to weld it, and especially when he tried to refinish the ground down area where he welded it. The bluing took to the weld, but not the surrounding area where he had cleaned the finish off of the stainless.
So are these guys really going cheap by using stainless, or is this guy just behind the times?
I recently took a Spike's Dynacomp to be pinned and welded to a local gunsmith. Before I decided to have it done, I was telling him I wasn't completely sure about having it pinned and welded since some people had complained about erosion issues with the same part. He offered to install a Phantom, but since I had already spent the money on the Dynacomp I decided to have him just install that one.
When I called to ask if it was ready to be picked up, he said he realized why they were not holding up to heavy use. He said a lot of manufacturers are going to stainless steel when they are making parts because it is cheaper, and that it is harder to weld, and doesn't hold up as well in the long run. He said he realized it when he was trying to weld it, and especially when he tried to refinish the ground down area where he welded it. The bluing took to the weld, but not the surrounding area where he had cleaned the finish off of the stainless.
So are these guys really going cheap by using stainless, or is this guy just behind the times?
The lesson to be learned:
Never assume a gunsmith is also a skilled welder or skilled machinist. These days it's tough enough just to find a highly competent gunsmith much less the entire package in one shot. I can now only dream of the days gone by when I had "a guy" who really did it all.
5/22/2012 4:38:03 PM
Originally Posted By apierce918:
why doesnt a stainless comp hold up in the long run? that doesnt make any sense. any welder who can call themselves a welder can weld stainless.... but if you are setup for regular steel, it isnt going to work right. I work for a large truck mfr, and we use a LOT of stainless for different panels... it isnt to save money I can tell you that.
why doesnt a stainless comp hold up in the long run? that doesnt make any sense. any welder who can call themselves a welder can weld stainless.... but if you are setup for regular steel, it isnt going to work right. I work for a large truck mfr, and we use a LOT of stainless for different panels... it isnt to save money I can tell you that.
There was a thread where someone was asking Spike's if it was normal for their Dynacomp to be eroding at something like 2000 rounds. Spike's told them to send it in and they would replace it, but that it is considered normal for it to erode like that.
Also, he appears to be a gunsmith that welds every once in a while. That is different than a welder that gunsmiths.
5/22/2012 4:41:06 PM
Originally Posted By MeatBag:
They make entire guns out of stainless steel. I don't think high quality 1911s would be made out of it if it were crap.
They make entire guns out of stainless steel. I don't think high quality 1911s would be made out of it if it were crap.
It may not be crap, but everything has its application. Just because an entire gun can be made from stainless, does not mean it is the best material for a muzzle device.
The same gunsmith told me he also had a problem bluing a 1911 slide and when he called the company, they told him that was because it was stainless. "They" the company said it was cheaper for them to use stainless. I don't know in reference to what other metal they were referring.
5/22/2012 4:45:08 PM
Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga:
How is he trying to weld it? I have a relatively cheap DC TIG welder and can weld stainless OK (not as easily as mild steel, but OK). Also, how is he trying to blue the stainless? IIRC stainless can only be blued with specialty salts in a HOT blue process... depending on the alloy, it likely won't take to cold bluing well. I would use spray-n-bake paint myself.
How is he trying to weld it? I have a relatively cheap DC TIG welder and can weld stainless OK (not as easily as mild steel, but OK). Also, how is he trying to blue the stainless? IIRC stainless can only be blued with specialty salts in a HOT blue process... depending on the alloy, it likely won't take to cold bluing well. I would use spray-n-bake paint myself.
He did say he was not equipped to weld stainless, and brought it up because he was surprised that many more companies are using stainless to make parts now. I also know he has a hot tank, but not with the proper bath to finish stainless. Personally, I would have been just as happy if he had done like Spike's does. They don't try to refinish the weld. The uppers I got from Spike's just have a weld blob on them. It doesn't bother me one bit.
5/22/2012 4:56:58 PM
Originally Posted By SleeplessInTexas:
The lesson to be learned:
Never assume a gunsmith is also a skilled welder or skilled machinist. These days it's tough enough just to find a highly competent gunsmith much less the entire package in one shot. I can now only dream of the days gone by when I had "a guy" who really did it all.
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
I recently took a Spike's Dynacomp to be pinned and welded to a local gunsmith. Before I decided to have it done, I was telling him I wasn't completely sure about having it pinned and welded since some people had complained about erosion issues with the same part. He offered to install a Phantom, but since I had already spent the money on the Dynacomp I decided to have him just install that one.
When I called to ask if it was ready to be picked up, he said he realized why they were not holding up to heavy use. He said a lot of manufacturers are going to stainless steel when they are making parts because it is cheaper, and that it is harder to weld, and doesn't hold up as well in the long run. He said he realized it when he was trying to weld it, and especially when he tried to refinish the ground down area where he welded it. The bluing took to the weld, but not the surrounding area where he had cleaned the finish off of the stainless.
So are these guys really going cheap by using stainless, or is this guy just behind the times?
I recently took a Spike's Dynacomp to be pinned and welded to a local gunsmith. Before I decided to have it done, I was telling him I wasn't completely sure about having it pinned and welded since some people had complained about erosion issues with the same part. He offered to install a Phantom, but since I had already spent the money on the Dynacomp I decided to have him just install that one.
When I called to ask if it was ready to be picked up, he said he realized why they were not holding up to heavy use. He said a lot of manufacturers are going to stainless steel when they are making parts because it is cheaper, and that it is harder to weld, and doesn't hold up as well in the long run. He said he realized it when he was trying to weld it, and especially when he tried to refinish the ground down area where he welded it. The bluing took to the weld, but not the surrounding area where he had cleaned the finish off of the stainless.
So are these guys really going cheap by using stainless, or is this guy just behind the times?
The lesson to be learned:
Never assume a gunsmith is also a skilled welder or skilled machinist. These days it's tough enough just to find a highly competent gunsmith much less the entire package in one shot. I can now only dream of the days gone by when I had "a guy" who really did it all.
Yeah, although it was not for AR work, I have heard good stuff from other people that have used this guy. I called and asked him before I took it to him and he claimed he does AR pin and welds all the time so I trusted it to him. When I got there, I kind of gathered he did not have as much experience doing it as he claimed because he said he had never seen a pin like that before. The kind where you divot the barrel and drop the pin in and weld it. He claimed he normally does a transverse groove and inserts a pin crosswise, kind of like the way the FSBs are pinned. In either case, I am happy with the work.
I was just wondering about the stainless welding thing.
5/22/2012 7:13:03 PM
"The blueing took to the weld"...
Stainless doesn't blue, so what did he weld it with? Carbon steel?
Stainless doesn't blue, so what did he weld it with? Carbon steel?
5/22/2012 7:16:56 PM
yeah should use a stainless for the weld as well would make it a little tuffer to weld.
5/22/2012 7:23:00 PM
sounds like he used a regular steel pin on the job. a competent welder would use a stainless pin on the stainless comp, and it would have worked out fine. kinda rough trying to weld dissimilar metals.
the process for stainless is basically the same as steel––––just a different filler and gas (for mig––––not sure for tig but i'd assume so).
i never blued anything, so i dunno
the process for stainless is basically the same as steel––––just a different filler and gas (for mig––––not sure for tig but i'd assume so).
i never blued anything, so i dunno
5/22/2012 7:30:12 PM
Originally Posted By Sc0tt:
sounds like he used a regular steel pin on the job. a competent welder would use a stainless pin on the stainless comp, and it would have worked out fine. kinda rough trying to weld dissimilar metals.
the process for stainless is basically the same as steel末末just a different filler and gas (for mig末末not sure for tig but i'd assume so).
i never blued anything, so i dunno
sounds like he used a regular steel pin on the job. a competent welder would use a stainless pin on the stainless comp, and it would have worked out fine. kinda rough trying to weld dissimilar metals.
the process for stainless is basically the same as steel末末just a different filler and gas (for mig末末not sure for tig but i'd assume so).
i never blued anything, so i dunno
It was the pin that came with the muzzle device. I'm pretty sure you don't simply melt the pin in there. You actually use some kind of filler material in addition to the pin. The pin acts as the anchor so you can't spin the muzzle device, the filler goes over the pin.
5/22/2012 7:40:52 PM
I'll clear some things up.
Stainless is NOT cheaper than mild steel.
SS welding is really not more difficult than welding MS. For both MIG and TIG when welding SS, the same gas is used as with MS, however, the wire (MIG) and the filler rod (TIG) have to be stainless. I say "have to be", because that is how it's SUPPOSED to be done, however MS rod/wire will weld SS and SS wire/rod will weld MS...it's just not ideal.
I used to TIG using SS rod to weld MS on certain applications where looks were important, because the finished weld looked nicer. But like I said before, not ideal.
SS lacks carbon content and that is why some bluing processes won't work with it. It is also harder and therefore slightly more brittle, however this is negligible. For a muzzle device I see no problem with it being SS as many suppressor manufacturers use SS baffles with good success, and they see much more erosion than a typical muzzle device. Of course this is all relative to the exact application.
Stainless is NOT cheaper than mild steel.
SS welding is really not more difficult than welding MS. For both MIG and TIG when welding SS, the same gas is used as with MS, however, the wire (MIG) and the filler rod (TIG) have to be stainless. I say "have to be", because that is how it's SUPPOSED to be done, however MS rod/wire will weld SS and SS wire/rod will weld MS...it's just not ideal.
I used to TIG using SS rod to weld MS on certain applications where looks were important, because the finished weld looked nicer. But like I said before, not ideal.
SS lacks carbon content and that is why some bluing processes won't work with it. It is also harder and therefore slightly more brittle, however this is negligible. For a muzzle device I see no problem with it being SS as many suppressor manufacturers use SS baffles with good success, and they see much more erosion than a typical muzzle device. Of course this is all relative to the exact application.
5/22/2012 7:42:22 PM
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
It was the pin that came with the muzzle device. I'm pretty you don't simply melt the pin in there. You actually use some kind of filler material in addition to the pin. The pin acts as the anchor so you can't spin the muzzle device, the filler goes over the pin.
Originally Posted By Sc0tt:
sounds like he used a regular steel pin on the job. a competent welder would use a stainless pin on the stainless comp, and it would have worked out fine. kinda rough trying to weld dissimilar metals.
the process for stainless is basically the same as steel末末just a different filler and gas (for mig末末not sure for tig but i'd assume so).
i never blued anything, so i dunno
sounds like he used a regular steel pin on the job. a competent welder would use a stainless pin on the stainless comp, and it would have worked out fine. kinda rough trying to weld dissimilar metals.
the process for stainless is basically the same as steel末末just a different filler and gas (for mig末末not sure for tig but i'd assume so).
i never blued anything, so i dunno
It was the pin that came with the muzzle device. I'm pretty you don't simply melt the pin in there. You actually use some kind of filler material in addition to the pin. The pin acts as the anchor so you can't spin the muzzle device, the filler goes over the pin.
Not necessarily. If the pin was short and when inserted needed filler then that may be the case. If the pin protruded then all you really have to do is use a TIG torch and fuse the metals, adding no filler.
5/22/2012 7:45:06 PM
Originally Posted By DevilPig:
Not necessarily. If the pin was short and when inserted needed filler then that may be the case. If the pin protruded then all you really have to do is use a TIG torch and fuse the metals, adding no filler.
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
It was the pin that came with the muzzle device. I'm pretty you don't simply melt the pin in there. You actually use some kind of filler material in addition to the pin. The pin acts as the anchor so you can't spin the muzzle device, the filler goes over the pin.
Originally Posted By Sc0tt:
sounds like he used a regular steel pin on the job. a competent welder would use a stainless pin on the stainless comp, and it would have worked out fine. kinda rough trying to weld dissimilar metals.
the process for stainless is basically the same as steel末末just a different filler and gas (for mig末末not sure for tig but i'd assume so).
i never blued anything, so i dunno
sounds like he used a regular steel pin on the job. a competent welder would use a stainless pin on the stainless comp, and it would have worked out fine. kinda rough trying to weld dissimilar metals.
the process for stainless is basically the same as steel末末just a different filler and gas (for mig末末not sure for tig but i'd assume so).
i never blued anything, so i dunno
It was the pin that came with the muzzle device. I'm pretty you don't simply melt the pin in there. You actually use some kind of filler material in addition to the pin. The pin acts as the anchor so you can't spin the muzzle device, the filler goes over the pin.
Not necessarily. If the pin was short and when inserted needed filler then that may be the case. If the pin protruded then all you really have to do is use a TIG torch and fuse the metals, adding no filler.
The pin is just about flush before you drill the locking divot, so it must be recessed by the time you have done so.
5/22/2012 8:12:16 PM
SS is easier to weld than some other types of steel. Heck your smith could have Silver Soldered the part on.
5/22/2012 8:21:41 PM
Stainless for the most part is not cheaper than regular steel. It is usually quite a bit more. Also most suppressors are made from stainless or inconel, so the part about it not holding up is hard for me to swallow. If you need it fixed, IM me and I'll be happy to help you out.
5/22/2012 8:28:44 PM
Originally Posted By bwideman:
Stainless for the most part is not cheaper than regular steel. It is usually quite a bit more. Also most suppressors are made from stainless or inconel, so the part about it not holding up is hard for me to swallow. If you need it fixed, IM me and I'll be happy to help you out.
Stainless for the most part is not cheaper than regular steel. It is usually quite a bit more. Also most suppressors are made from stainless or inconel, so the part about it not holding up is hard for me to swallow. If you need it fixed, IM me and I'll be happy to help you out.
There is nothing to fix on mine. I didn't say anything needed fixed. This is what I was referring to.
eroding dynacomp
5/22/2012 8:41:46 PM
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
There is nothing to fix on mine. I didn't say anything needed fixed. This is what I was referring to.
eroding dynacomp
Originally Posted By bwideman:
Stainless for the most part is not cheaper than regular steel. It is usually quite a bit more. Also most suppressors are made from stainless or inconel, so the part about it not holding up is hard for me to swallow. If you need it fixed, IM me and I'll be happy to help you out.
Stainless for the most part is not cheaper than regular steel. It is usually quite a bit more. Also most suppressors are made from stainless or inconel, so the part about it not holding up is hard for me to swallow. If you need it fixed, IM me and I'll be happy to help you out.
There is nothing to fix on mine. I didn't say anything needed fixed. This is what I was referring to.
eroding dynacomp
That's my fault. From your post, it sounded like your "gunsmith" didn't know what the hell he was doing. He apparently can't weld stainless and thinks that it can be blued. He should have checked the material type before trying to weld as it has a huge impact on what type of filler rod needs to be used. I took it that the weld job was unsatisfactory to you.
5/22/2012 8:52:38 PM
Originally Posted By bwideman:
That's my fault. From your post, it sounded like your "gunsmith" didn't know what the hell he was doing. He apparently can't weld stainless and thinks that it can be blued. He should have checked the material type before trying to weld as it has a huge impact on what type of filler rod needs to be used. I took it that the weld job was unsatisfactory to you.
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
There is nothing to fix on mine. I didn't say anything needed fixed. This is what I was referring to.
eroding dynacomp
Originally Posted By bwideman:
Stainless for the most part is not cheaper than regular steel. It is usually quite a bit more. Also most suppressors are made from stainless or inconel, so the part about it not holding up is hard for me to swallow. If you need it fixed, IM me and I'll be happy to help you out.
Stainless for the most part is not cheaper than regular steel. It is usually quite a bit more. Also most suppressors are made from stainless or inconel, so the part about it not holding up is hard for me to swallow. If you need it fixed, IM me and I'll be happy to help you out.
There is nothing to fix on mine. I didn't say anything needed fixed. This is what I was referring to.
eroding dynacomp
That's my fault. From your post, it sounded like your "gunsmith" didn't know what the hell he was doing. He apparently can't weld stainless and thinks that it can be blued. He should have checked the material type before trying to weld as it has a huge impact on what type of filler rod needs to be used. I took it that the weld job was unsatisfactory to you.
The weld job is doing its job but it does have a void in it, which didn't show up until he ground it back down. I might just take one of my neighbor's welders and fix it myself so it looks somewhat like a tack weld, instead of the ground down and refinished look he was going for. He knows you can't blue stainless but did not realize it was stainless until after he ground the weld down, which took some of the surrounding finish off, and tried to reblue the whole area. He stated that was his first run-in with a stainless muzzle device. As of right now, it is fine. I was not going for pretty.
5/22/2012 9:00:22 PM
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
The weld job is doing its job but it does have a void in it, which didn't show up until he ground it back down. I might just take one of my neighbor's welders and fix it myself so it looks somewhat like a tack weld, instead of the ground down and refinished look he was going for. He knows you can't blue stainless but did not realize it was stainless until after he ground the weld down, which took some of the surrounding finish off, and tried to reblue the whole area. He stated that was his first run-in with a stainless muzzle device. As of right now, it is fine. I was not going for pretty.
Originally Posted By bwideman:
That's my fault. From your post, it sounded like your "gunsmith" didn't know what the hell he was doing. He apparently can't weld stainless and thinks that it can be blued. He should have checked the material type before trying to weld as it has a huge impact on what type of filler rod needs to be used. I took it that the weld job was unsatisfactory to you.
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
There is nothing to fix on mine. I didn't say anything needed fixed. This is what I was referring to.
eroding dynacomp
Originally Posted By bwideman:
Stainless for the most part is not cheaper than regular steel. It is usually quite a bit more. Also most suppressors are made from stainless or inconel, so the part about it not holding up is hard for me to swallow. If you need it fixed, IM me and I'll be happy to help you out.
Stainless for the most part is not cheaper than regular steel. It is usually quite a bit more. Also most suppressors are made from stainless or inconel, so the part about it not holding up is hard for me to swallow. If you need it fixed, IM me and I'll be happy to help you out.
There is nothing to fix on mine. I didn't say anything needed fixed. This is what I was referring to.
eroding dynacomp
That's my fault. From your post, it sounded like your "gunsmith" didn't know what the hell he was doing. He apparently can't weld stainless and thinks that it can be blued. He should have checked the material type before trying to weld as it has a huge impact on what type of filler rod needs to be used. I took it that the weld job was unsatisfactory to you.
The weld job is doing its job but it does have a void in it, which didn't show up until he ground it back down. I might just take one of my neighbor's welders and fix it myself so it looks somewhat like a tack weld, instead of the ground down and refinished look he was going for. He knows you can't blue stainless but did not realize it was stainless until after he ground the weld down, which took some of the surrounding finish off, and tried to reblue the whole area. He stated that was his first run-in with a stainless muzzle device. As of right now, it is fine. I was not going for pretty.
I understand function over form, but knowing the material you are welding is about as basic as it gets. The type of weld/filler used plays a major part of the integrity of a weld. As long as you are happy with the end product, who cares. As far as stainless holding up, I think it will wear as well as the same muzzle device made out of a standard steel.
5/22/2012 9:17:47 PM
Originally Posted By bwideman:
I understand function over form, but knowing the material you are welding is about as basic as it gets. The type of weld/filler used plays a major part of the integrity of a weld. As long as you are happy with the end product, who cares. As far as stainless holding up, I think it will wear as well as the same muzzle device made out of a standard steel.
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
The weld job is doing its job but it does have a void in it, which didn't show up until he ground it back down. I might just take one of my neighbor's welders and fix it myself so it looks somewhat like a tack weld, instead of the ground down and refinished look he was going for. He knows you can't blue stainless but did not realize it was stainless until after he ground the weld down, which took some of the surrounding finish off, and tried to reblue the whole area. He stated that was his first run-in with a stainless muzzle device. As of right now, it is fine. I was not going for pretty.
Originally Posted By bwideman:
That's my fault. From your post, it sounded like your "gunsmith" didn't know what the hell he was doing. He apparently can't weld stainless and thinks that it can be blued. He should have checked the material type before trying to weld as it has a huge impact on what type of filler rod needs to be used. I took it that the weld job was unsatisfactory to you.
Originally Posted By H53EXPERT:
There is nothing to fix on mine. I didn't say anything needed fixed. This is what I was referring to.
eroding dynacomp
Originally Posted By bwideman:
Stainless for the most part is not cheaper than regular steel. It is usually quite a bit more. Also most suppressors are made from stainless or inconel, so the part about it not holding up is hard for me to swallow. If you need it fixed, IM me and I'll be happy to help you out.
Stainless for the most part is not cheaper than regular steel. It is usually quite a bit more. Also most suppressors are made from stainless or inconel, so the part about it not holding up is hard for me to swallow. If you need it fixed, IM me and I'll be happy to help you out.
There is nothing to fix on mine. I didn't say anything needed fixed. This is what I was referring to.
eroding dynacomp
That's my fault. From your post, it sounded like your "gunsmith" didn't know what the hell he was doing. He apparently can't weld stainless and thinks that it can be blued. He should have checked the material type before trying to weld as it has a huge impact on what type of filler rod needs to be used. I took it that the weld job was unsatisfactory to you.
The weld job is doing its job but it does have a void in it, which didn't show up until he ground it back down. I might just take one of my neighbor's welders and fix it myself so it looks somewhat like a tack weld, instead of the ground down and refinished look he was going for. He knows you can't blue stainless but did not realize it was stainless until after he ground the weld down, which took some of the surrounding finish off, and tried to reblue the whole area. He stated that was his first run-in with a stainless muzzle device. As of right now, it is fine. I was not going for pretty.
I understand function over form, but knowing the material you are welding is about as basic as it gets. The type of weld/filler used plays a major part of the integrity of a weld. As long as you are happy with the end product, who cares. As far as stainless holding up, I think it will wear as well as the same muzzle device made out of a standard steel.
I know what you mean, but I think we both understand there is nothing critical about this weld.
5/22/2012 9:31:12 PM
I am not a pro, but all I weld at work is stainless. I use a TIG set to DC and a "gas lens" is needed. Stainless likes a lot of Argon.
5/22/2012 9:44:46 PM
TIG welding stainless is not a big challenge. Someone accomplished welding steel will have no problems with stainless.
5/22/2012 10:31:22 PM
Originally Posted By Bretshooter:
"The blueing took to the weld"...
Stainless doesn't blue, so what did he weld it with? Carbon steel?
"The blueing took to the weld"...
Stainless doesn't blue, so what did he weld it with? Carbon steel?
Stainless can be blued, but not with the same salts that you use to blue carbon.
5/22/2012 11:33:17 PM
Why weld wouldn't brazing work?
5/23/2012 12:52:14 AM
Originally Posted By AR15Texan:
Why weld wouldn't brazing work?
Why weld wouldn't brazing work?
As long as you use 1,100o solder.
