Receiver block or barrel vice jaws for flash hider swap?
I've got a 12.5" upper with an A2 front sight base that I want to swap the flash hider on. Can I use an upper receiver vice block and insert or do i need to use barrel vice jaws? The only problem with the barrel vice jaws is there isn't much barrel in front of the FSB and most vice jaws are ~4" long.
Originally Posted By SSeric02:
I've got a 12.5" upper with an A2 front sight base that I want to swap the flash hider on. Can I use an upper receiver vice block and insert or do i need to use barrel vice jaws? The only problem with the barrel vice jaws is there isn't much barrel in front of the FSB and most vice jaws are ~4" long.
The right way is to use barrel vice jaws.
How about pulling the gas tube ?
Originally Posted By SSeric02:
I've got a 12.5" upper with an A2 front sight base that I want to swap the flash hider on. Can I use an upper receiver vice block and insert or do i need to use barrel vice jaws? The only problem with the barrel vice jaws is there isn't much barrel in front of the FSB and most vice jaws are ~4" long.
You should clamp the barrel to swap a flash hider! Here are some that are 2.25"
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=29522/pid=12470/Product/AR-15-M16-BARREL-VISE-JAWS Even if you got longer ones a hack saw would solve the problem of them being too long

And that way you could have maximum barrel clampage
Originally Posted By c7aea15:
Originally Posted By SSeric02:
I've got a 12.5" upper with an A2 front sight base that I want to swap the flash hider on. Can I use an upper receiver vice block and insert or do i need to use barrel vice jaws? The only problem with the barrel vice jaws is there isn't much barrel in front of the FSB and most vice jaws are ~4" long.
You should clamp the barrel to swap a flash hider! Here are some that are 2.25"
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=29522/pid=12470/Product/AR-15-M16-BARREL-VISE-JAWS Even if you got longer ones a hack saw would solve the problem of them being too long

And that way you could have maximum barrel clampage
Those are the ones I was going to get, but they're 3 5/8s" long, not 2 1/4". Hack saw it is!
Originally Posted By Direct-Drive:
Originally Posted By SSeric02:
I've got a 12.5" upper with an A2 front sight base that I want to swap the flash hider on. Can I use an upper receiver vice block and insert or do i need to use barrel vice jaws? The only problem with the barrel vice jaws is there isn't much barrel in front of the FSB and most vice jaws are ~4" long.
The right way is to use barrel vice jaws.
How about pulling the gas tube ?
Gas block journal is a different diameter than the barrel forward of it.
Originally Posted By SSeric02:
Originally Posted By c7aea15:
Originally Posted By SSeric02:
I've got a 12.5" upper with an A2 front sight base that I want to swap the flash hider on. Can I use an upper receiver vice block and insert or do i need to use barrel vice jaws? The only problem with the barrel vice jaws is there isn't much barrel in front of the FSB and most vice jaws are ~4" long.
You should clamp the barrel to swap a flash hider! Here are some that are 2.25"
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=29522/pid=12470/Product/AR-15-M16-BARREL-VISE-JAWS Even if you got longer ones a hack saw would solve the problem of them being too long

And that way you could have maximum barrel clampage
Those are the ones I was going to get, but they're 3 5/8s" long, not 2 1/4". Hack saw it is!
You are correct, I was reading the width


Originally Posted By SSeric02:
Originally Posted By Direct-Drive:
Originally Posted By SSeric02:
I've got a 12.5" upper with an A2 front sight base that I want to swap the flash hider on. Can I use an upper receiver vice block and insert or do i need to use barrel vice jaws? The only problem with the barrel vice jaws is there isn't much barrel in front of the FSB and most vice jaws are ~4" long.
The right way is to use barrel vice jaws.
How about pulling the gas tube ?
Gas block journal is a different diameter than the barrel forward of it.
No. The GB journal would not be in play.
You would clear out the handguard and the tube, not the GB.
Then, I'm thinking that you may have open barrel real estate to clamp onto.
You should be able to find barrel blocks for $16 - $25 or fashion your own out of wood.
Use scrap inner tube or leather for protection and bite (traction).
Originally Posted By Direct-Drive:
Originally Posted By SSeric02:
Originally Posted By Direct-Drive:
Originally Posted By SSeric02:
I've got a 12.5" upper with an A2 front sight base that I want to swap the flash hider on. Can I use an upper receiver vice block and insert or do i need to use barrel vice jaws? The only problem with the barrel vice jaws is there isn't much barrel in front of the FSB and most vice jaws are ~4" long.
The right way is to use barrel vice jaws.
How about pulling the gas tube ?
Gas block journal is a different diameter than the barrel forward of it.
No. The GB journal would not be in play.
You would clear out the handguard and the tube, not the GB.
Then, I'm thinking that you may have open barrel real estate to clamp onto.
You should be able to find barrel blocks for $16 - $25 or fashion your own out of wood.
Use scrap inner tube or leather for protection and bite (traction).
OK, I see what you're saying, clamp under the handguards. Barrel has a taper, though it might work.
Surprisingly, Brownells' Guntech video on swapping a muzzle device shows them do it with just a receiver block.

Originally Posted By SSeric02:
Surprisingly, Brownells' Guntech video on swapping a muzzle device shows them do it with just a receiver block.

If you don't exceed the torque used to put on the barrel, no harm, no foul. If you didn't put it on, or don't remember the torque value, I would not attempt it. And then with a peel washer.
So short answer, I wouldn't, as I don't record the barrel toque value.
If a receiver block is used, the barrel becomes a torsion rod, even if minimally so, and that both increases the torque you'll have to apply to break the device loose or seat it AND apply that torque at the front of the receiver, which is not designed to take torque loads. Hold the barrel in vise blocks as close to the muzzle as practical, and you'll limit the torque to the part of the barrel between the vise and where you apply the wrench.