a2 stock wrench

I need a wrench to properly install an a2 stock.

will this work?

What do you recommend using for tightening down an a2 stock and doing it right?

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/midwest-industries-stock-wrench-mi-esw.html

Looks like a nice wrench...economical too.
Some might say that there's no provision for a torque wrench, if you want to torque it.

Another simple, but good wrench is the USGI combination wrench. I got mine from Bushmaster for about $12.00.
Here it is in action....

The wrench linked will not work for A2 Stock work.

You need a big screwdriver and an adjustable wrench. Most likely you already have the tools.

Castle nut wrenches are not used for A2 work.

eta I use a vise to hold the lower secure while tightening down the receiver extension and Stock.

Looks to me like it has a rifle nut cut out.

You may be right, looks like a oval to me. OP should still have better tools at home already.

It's an odd shaped nut.
You can see it in my diagram above.

You're right though, it is easy to substitute a normal wrench.

I don't have a torque wrench, but my dad might.


So, a normal wrench and screw driver will work just fine? How will i know when to stop tightening it? I don't want this sucker to come loose on me ever. I want to do it once and done.



Thanks guys!

All you need is an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver, don't try to overthink it....<><....:)

Those who have done a lot of wrenching can "feel" when its torqued.
FNG's that want it right will use a torque wrench.
To use a torque wrench you will have to adapt it to the tube nut by using a wrench as in my diagram (attachment) or a crow's foot open end wrench from an auto part store.
Torque as you saw in the attachment above is 38 - 42 ft lbs.

You can borrow a torque wrench from a good auto parts store and they can set you up with a crow's foot.
Just bring your tube in.

If you want to use a "T" wrench just get a crowsfoot socket. Never used a T wrench on any A2 install. I just grease the threads and install. It is unlikely that the reciver extension will unscrew when assembled. You could always use Blue loctite on some of the threads.

eta if using a crows foot you may have to figure in different T values as what is listed in the spec is for a GI tool. Which should have a different offset from a crowsfoot wrench.

I don't know how you'd use a socket on that nut, it's an odd shape.
Open end is way mo' betta.

The offset is so close it is not worth worrying about modified torque values.

Crank it down by hand and install the stock. Tighten the screw down to where it seats, and give it another good half turn. It is impossible for the tube to come loose once you have installed the screw because the stock acts as a locking plate to the lower receiver.

two or three drops of blue loctite and your crescent wrench..a little tug and you are done...all the rest is bull shit

EDIT blue will migrate so let the lower sit on the butt plate for a while....and i mean two or three drops..

So only two or three? Why not cover a majority of the threads? I'm going to lock it down with a wrench and some blue 242 but figured the more of the threads i cover the stronger it will be.

Not only should you not loctite it, you are supposed to grease the threads. The only fastener that could cause a failure is the stock screw. If it loosens, the stock can back out of the locking hole in the lower receiver, and you have a loose stock, and a tube that could possibly spin. When you buy a new kit, it comes with loctite on the screw. Look at how the thing works and stop barking up the wrong tree.

I hate to agree with H53 but he's right.

Hundreds of thousands (or more) of combat weapons were assembled as shown in the diagram that I posted above from the Tech Manual.
The only approved location of Loctite on an A1/A2 is the buttstock screws.
Everything else is the result of civilian "re-engineering".

I always called a crows foot a "crows foot socket", only because it is used with a ratchet.

ETA the values in the TM are already figured out for the offset of the GI tool. The offsets are different, did not run the numbers to even bother if it would make a real world difference as I have two unkowns the GI tool offset and the offset of the crows foot wrench.

After reading your edit, I see what you are saying. I was thinking of the difference between using a socket or a crows foot.

This is how I THINK the numbers are listed in the TM, only because if I was writing a instruction sheet and I knew the end user would only be using this type of grease, this type of T wrench, this type of tool, etc etc. I would list the T spec in the instruction sheet for when using all the approved tools and lubes, vs just the dry spec T for the thread at hand.

To me I would see less errors produced with all the math already done vs having the tech do all the math. All the Tech has to know is the T value and how to use the tool.

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