Archived Posts » 59,789,155
Spike's Tactical ST-15 low feeding
12/19/2011 6:14:11 PM
I just bought a brand new spike's tactical mid-length ST-15, and put about 180 rounds through it yesterday. The problem is when I charge the rifle, the bolt will catch the back of the bullet like it should, but the front of the round gets stuck on the feed ramps. It also occasionally will do this when firing. When this problem happens while firing, sometimes slapping the bottom of the mag will work to get the bolt to go forward and chamber the round. Other times I have to charge it again completely. I had the magazine catch flush with the mag release button, although it WAS NOT FLUSH when I got the rifle and that made the problem worse. That's not a big deal, but just something to note.
I've used both USGI mags AND brand new pmags. My ammo is not lacquer coated, and it looks like winchester but I'm not 100% sure. I have m4 feedramps that look pretty nice. The bolt stays completely open on an empty mag and the bolt is running WET with hoppe's 9 gun oil. The gun is fresh from the factory. There is nothing wrong with the buffer tube or spring cosmetically, and it has oil on it as well.
I called Spike's Tactical today and dropped my info and problem to them, and I have not heard back. I also have a bunch of good pictures, but the problem is exactly what I have described. I checked the search but got nothing, and I googled it and ruled out the problems other people where having. I think what I am experiencing is "low feed" or "FTF".
This is my first AR-15, first arfcom post, and first "real" rifle and I'm not happy. Is their something I am missing?
Devin
I've used both USGI mags AND brand new pmags. My ammo is not lacquer coated, and it looks like winchester but I'm not 100% sure. I have m4 feedramps that look pretty nice. The bolt stays completely open on an empty mag and the bolt is running WET with hoppe's 9 gun oil. The gun is fresh from the factory. There is nothing wrong with the buffer tube or spring cosmetically, and it has oil on it as well.
I called Spike's Tactical today and dropped my info and problem to them, and I have not heard back. I also have a bunch of good pictures, but the problem is exactly what I have described. I checked the search but got nothing, and I googled it and ruled out the problems other people where having. I think what I am experiencing is "low feed" or "FTF".
This is my first AR-15, first arfcom post, and first "real" rifle and I'm not happy. Is their something I am missing?
Devin
12/20/2011 12:18:18 AM
Dump the Hoppes gun oil and Hoppes copper solvent if you are using it, and instead, use Breakfree CLP to both lube the rifle, and clean just about everything on the rifle but the barrel bore (use something like Sweets copper solvent for the bore, but still clean the chamber with a chamber brush by hand with CLP.
As for the low feeds, you have one of a few problems going on,
Either the mag catch button retaining lip is the wrong height, and not holding the mag up far enough for a clean tip feed to barrel ramps,
The mags are dirty (yes,even new and packed full of floor/table assembly debris) and need to just be pulled down and CLP cleaned,
The mag catch channel position was milled too low on the receiver and causing the problem.
The mag well was milled too over size, and/or, you are hanging onto the mag/using it as a bipod, and cam'g the front of the mag down when firing the gun to cause the low feeds angle.
The fact that you have extended M-4 ramps on both the upper receiver and barrel, means that if you are having low feeds, it not just a little but a major problem going on.
So on that note, clean the gun with sweets and breakfreeCLP, pull the mags down and give them a good CLP cleaning, and with the threads of the mag catch flush with the face of the mag release button, go give the rifle another testing. If you still have problems and the rig is factory, send it back to have it check out (let them swap parts on their own dime to figure which is out of spec)..
As for the low feeds, you have one of a few problems going on,
Either the mag catch button retaining lip is the wrong height, and not holding the mag up far enough for a clean tip feed to barrel ramps,
The mags are dirty (yes,even new and packed full of floor/table assembly debris) and need to just be pulled down and CLP cleaned,
The mag catch channel position was milled too low on the receiver and causing the problem.
The mag well was milled too over size, and/or, you are hanging onto the mag/using it as a bipod, and cam'g the front of the mag down when firing the gun to cause the low feeds angle.
The fact that you have extended M-4 ramps on both the upper receiver and barrel, means that if you are having low feeds, it not just a little but a major problem going on.
So on that note, clean the gun with sweets and breakfreeCLP, pull the mags down and give them a good CLP cleaning, and with the threads of the mag catch flush with the face of the mag release button, go give the rifle another testing. If you still have problems and the rig is factory, send it back to have it check out (let them swap parts on their own dime to figure which is out of spec)..
12/20/2011 12:55:04 AM
Gotcha. I also noticed the bullet is only getting caught on the part of the feedramp where the little rectangles are cut out. I must journey out to find this CLP, and will report back after further testing with clean mags.
Thanks,
Devin
Thanks,
Devin
12/20/2011 3:52:40 AM
Could be you have slight "lip" between the upper and extension, sometimes the cuts in the upper don't totally match up to the ones in the barrel extension.
Can you post some pics of the ramps?
Can you post some pics of the ramps?
12/20/2011 10:46:53 AM
As you can see, the bolt is behind the back of the bullet after pressing the bolt release allowing the bolt to slam forward. Are my feed ramps aligned properly?
12/20/2011 12:20:35 PM
I called Spike's again, today. They were very friendly, with great customer service. They are paying to have the rifle shipped back to them to take a look at it. I really want to like it, but this gun has been nothing but frustration so far! Surely not ALL ar-15's are like this.....
Devin
Devin
12/20/2011 4:29:43 PM
I was out shooting today and had a similar problem with the exact same upper. It fired fine when I would use the charging handle, but the next round would get stuck. Happened twice, then I realized that I hadn't lubed it in a while and it has been in its case for a while. So I worked the charging handle a few times to redistribute the lube. Fired another 40ish rounds no problem.
Edit: Wanted to add that this upper has been flawless since its first mag about 400 rounds ago. So I don't have any real concern about it being anything other than just being a little dry.
Edit: Wanted to add that this upper has been flawless since its first mag about 400 rounds ago. So I don't have any real concern about it being anything other than just being a little dry.
12/21/2011 3:08:43 AM
What lube are you using? I just bought a can of CLP.... however my rifle is already on it's way to Florida for repair/inspection.
Devin
Devin
12/21/2011 7:42:23 AM
Your feed ramps were fine and the CLP to lube as well.
During the break in period of a new tight rifle you should, lube generously, shoot good brass ammo, clean thoroughly.....repeat.
During the break in period of a new tight rifle you should, lube generously, shoot good brass ammo, clean thoroughly.....repeat.
12/22/2011 5:56:37 PM
I have several questions. Why is it recommended to toss out the hoppe's 9 gun oil? Shouldn't the weapon be able to cycle just fine with it? Also, is it possible it could be the cause of the problems I am experiencing?
12/22/2011 6:26:48 PM
Originally Posted By spider556:
I have several questions. Why is it recommended to toss out the hoppe's 9 gun oil?
I have several questions. Why is it recommended to toss out the hoppe's 9 gun oil?
In regards to the Hoppes gun oil, is has no cleaning properties to it, and in a rifle that is going not only dump burnt powder fouling into the action through the gas system, but the same as the action opens with the residual gasses from the bore dumped back in the action too, you need a lube that can dissolve such fouling as it tries to build up as the weapon is in use.
So just say No to LSA in the platform, and use CLP instead.
Regarding the use of Hoppes cleaning solvent, it creates an even worse problem in the action/chamber, since the solvent leaves behind a sluggish rust protective coating that will attract gun powder fouling even fast than just oil alone, and worse, when this residual solvent combines with CLP, it just turn into a even worse gooey mess that attracts/collets fouling even faster.
Hoppes products are great for bolt, lever, pump type rifle, but not really the best solvents when it come to gas action firearms. Here, you want a bore solvent that will not leave behind a residual coating to clean the copper out of the bore without needing a lot of scrubbing (such as Sweets), then BreakfreeCLP as not only the parts cleaning/lubing agent, but the short term storage rust protective agent as well.
12/23/2011 3:37:55 AM
Originally Posted By Dano523:
Regarding the use of Hoppes cleaning solvent, it creates an even worse problem in the action/chamber, since the solvent leaves behind a sluggish rust protective coating that will attract gun powder fouling even fast than just oil alone, and worse, when this residual solvent combines with CLP, it just turn into a even worse gooey mess that attracts/collets fouling even faster.
Regarding the use of Hoppes cleaning solvent, it creates an even worse problem in the action/chamber, since the solvent leaves behind a sluggish rust protective coating that will attract gun powder fouling even fast than just oil alone, and worse, when this residual solvent combines with CLP, it just turn into a even worse gooey mess that attracts/collets fouling even faster.
So if I've been using Hoppe's gun solvent and oil, how do I clean them out without turing my firearm into a swamp of moist, gooey metal? I just bought CLP.
12/23/2011 4:57:21 AM
The Hoppe's solvent is fine, Butch's Bore shine is much better. Don't use the Hoppe's oil though, for reasons stated by the Mod.
I will say something here, that I've said before. I have used a lot of different oils on my firearms,and right now, I'm using SLIP EWL 2000. It's pretty good, but the best I've ever used by far, is Blue Wonder Dissotec XFR. I had a few issues with a new LR308. I used different lubes on it and it would still have issues every few rounds. When I used that, perfect.
My ex wife sent me some from Afghanistan. On one mission she ( her unit ) was on she was attached to the 82nd AB, and there were some Rangers or something of the like with the 82nd. She had some issues in the extreme cold at a high elevation, and her M4 wouldn't had some feed issues. It did it with several different mags. She shot it with CLP and it would work a bit and then stop. One of the guys in the SF or Ranger unit gave her some of the Blue Wonder stuff. She lubed the BCG with it and it ran fine. They were out for several days in whatever village/ compound they were patrolling, ( she was questioning and handling females ), and they had a couple of more encounters, and it ran fine then too. She had time to wipe it down and clean the BCG the next night or so, but she kept using the stuff. She won't use anything else. Her M4 had jammed before and she thought is was mag related but it wasn't. She never had an issue after that with it using the Blue Wonder.
That stuff is thick, and slicker than oil shit, and it will stay on the weapon for a very long time. The BCG will stay wet for 500 rounds or more. I fired about 500 one weekend and came home and sat the rifle down and didn't clean it, and I didn't shoot it for a few more weeks. It was still wet when I went to shoot it again. It doesn't attract dirt at all, or clog up or get cruddy with residue either. As soon as I get the chance I'm going to order some more. I'm not happy with the EWL stuff at all. I let a friends kid use it on his guns before he went to basic with the Air Force and he never gave it back. lol He loved it. I told him to keep it.
I will say something here, that I've said before. I have used a lot of different oils on my firearms,and right now, I'm using SLIP EWL 2000. It's pretty good, but the best I've ever used by far, is Blue Wonder Dissotec XFR. I had a few issues with a new LR308. I used different lubes on it and it would still have issues every few rounds. When I used that, perfect.
My ex wife sent me some from Afghanistan. On one mission she ( her unit ) was on she was attached to the 82nd AB, and there were some Rangers or something of the like with the 82nd. She had some issues in the extreme cold at a high elevation, and her M4 wouldn't had some feed issues. It did it with several different mags. She shot it with CLP and it would work a bit and then stop. One of the guys in the SF or Ranger unit gave her some of the Blue Wonder stuff. She lubed the BCG with it and it ran fine. They were out for several days in whatever village/ compound they were patrolling, ( she was questioning and handling females ), and they had a couple of more encounters, and it ran fine then too. She had time to wipe it down and clean the BCG the next night or so, but she kept using the stuff. She won't use anything else. Her M4 had jammed before and she thought is was mag related but it wasn't. She never had an issue after that with it using the Blue Wonder.
That stuff is thick, and slicker than oil shit, and it will stay on the weapon for a very long time. The BCG will stay wet for 500 rounds or more. I fired about 500 one weekend and came home and sat the rifle down and didn't clean it, and I didn't shoot it for a few more weeks. It was still wet when I went to shoot it again. It doesn't attract dirt at all, or clog up or get cruddy with residue either. As soon as I get the chance I'm going to order some more. I'm not happy with the EWL stuff at all. I let a friends kid use it on his guns before he went to basic with the Air Force and he never gave it back. lol He loved it. I told him to keep it.
12/23/2011 7:45:50 AM
Originally Posted By spider556:
So if I've been using Hoppe's gun solvent and oil, how do I clean them out without turing my firearm into a swamp of moist, gooey metal? I just bought CLP.
Originally Posted By Dano523:
Regarding the use of Hoppes cleaning solvent, it creates an even worse problem in the action/chamber, since the solvent leaves behind a sluggish rust protective coating that will attract gun powder fouling even fast than just oil alone, and worse, when this residual solvent combines with CLP, it just turn into a even worse gooey mess that attracts/collets fouling even faster.
Regarding the use of Hoppes cleaning solvent, it creates an even worse problem in the action/chamber, since the solvent leaves behind a sluggish rust protective coating that will attract gun powder fouling even fast than just oil alone, and worse, when this residual solvent combines with CLP, it just turn into a even worse gooey mess that attracts/collets fouling even faster.
So if I've been using Hoppe's gun solvent and oil, how do I clean them out without turing my firearm into a swamp of moist, gooey metal? I just bought CLP.
Do a light coat of CLP on the parts, let is sit for a while, then wipe it to dry just you would a regular cleaning, followed by lubing with CLP.
When you go to clean the chamber and bore, clean the bore first with a good copper solvent, then clean the chamber next with CLP and a chamber brush by hand, then give the chamber another shot of fresh CLP, and shove patches down the chamber/bore out the muzzle until the come out dry. Even when you think that you have the bore and chamber dry, there is still trace amounts of CLP there for short term rust protection. As for the barrel extension, Q-tip work great to get the last of fouling out of the void between the barrel lugs and breach face.
As for the chamber to check to make sure that you are cleaning it correctly, after you have everything dry, drill spin new a 30 cal mop on a cleaning rod section with just a light tad of CLP on it deep in the chamber and back out. If the mop come out black, you are are missing the last chamber step cut just before the throat cut, and need to do a better job on correctly cleaning all of the chamber.
As for Hoppes copper solvent (still a lot of scrubbing to get all the copper out of the bore using it instead of a better copper solvent that does not take all the scrubbing), if you clean the above way, then it work fine since the CLP chamber step will be enough to flush out any remnants of what may be left behind.
12/23/2011 8:05:10 AM
Originally Posted By pavlovwolf:
The Hoppe's solvent is fine, Butch's Bore shine is much better. Don't use the Hoppe's oil though, for reasons stated by the Mod.
I will say something here, that I've said before. I have used a lot of different oils on my firearms,and right now, I'm using SLIP EWL 2000. It's pretty good, but the best I've ever used by far, is Blue Wonder Dissotec XFR. I had a few issues with a new LR308. I used different lubes on it and it would still have issues every few rounds. When I used that, perfect.
My ex wife sent me some from Afghanistan. On one mission she ( her unit ) was on she was attached to the 82nd AB, and there were some Rangers or something of the like with the 82nd. She had some issues in the extreme cold at a high elevation, and her M4 wouldn't had some feed issues. It did it with several different mags. She shot it with CLP and it would work a bit and then stop. One of the guys in the SF or Ranger unit gave her some of the Blue Wonder stuff. She lubed the BCG with it and it ran fine. They were out for several days in whatever village/ compound they were patrolling, ( she was questioning and handling females ), and they had a couple of more encounters, and it ran fine then too. She had time to wipe it down and clean the BCG the next night or so, but she kept using the stuff. She won't use anything else. Her M4 had jammed before and she thought is was mag related but it wasn't. She never had an issue after that with it using the Blue Wonder.
That stuff is thick, and slicker than oil shit, and it will stay on the weapon for a very long time. The BCG will stay wet for 500 rounds or more. I fired about 500 one weekend and came home and sat the rifle down and didn't clean it, and I didn't shoot it for a few more weeks. It was still wet when I went to shoot it again. It doesn't attract dirt at all, or clog up or get cruddy with residue either. As soon as I get the chance I'm going to order some more. I'm not happy with the EWL stuff at all. I let a friends kid use it on his guns before he went to basic with the Air Force and he never gave it back. lol He loved it. I told him to keep it.
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQIiBtU14LyWrqSAJ2ZRD75z_LuNiJC8hYauJLhAIb9yGpV8DFG_g
The Hoppe's solvent is fine, Butch's Bore shine is much better. Don't use the Hoppe's oil though, for reasons stated by the Mod.
I will say something here, that I've said before. I have used a lot of different oils on my firearms,and right now, I'm using SLIP EWL 2000. It's pretty good, but the best I've ever used by far, is Blue Wonder Dissotec XFR. I had a few issues with a new LR308. I used different lubes on it and it would still have issues every few rounds. When I used that, perfect.
My ex wife sent me some from Afghanistan. On one mission she ( her unit ) was on she was attached to the 82nd AB, and there were some Rangers or something of the like with the 82nd. She had some issues in the extreme cold at a high elevation, and her M4 wouldn't had some feed issues. It did it with several different mags. She shot it with CLP and it would work a bit and then stop. One of the guys in the SF or Ranger unit gave her some of the Blue Wonder stuff. She lubed the BCG with it and it ran fine. They were out for several days in whatever village/ compound they were patrolling, ( she was questioning and handling females ), and they had a couple of more encounters, and it ran fine then too. She had time to wipe it down and clean the BCG the next night or so, but she kept using the stuff. She won't use anything else. Her M4 had jammed before and she thought is was mag related but it wasn't. She never had an issue after that with it using the Blue Wonder.
That stuff is thick, and slicker than oil shit, and it will stay on the weapon for a very long time. The BCG will stay wet for 500 rounds or more. I fired about 500 one weekend and came home and sat the rifle down and didn't clean it, and I didn't shoot it for a few more weeks. It was still wet when I went to shoot it again. It doesn't attract dirt at all, or clog up or get cruddy with residue either. As soon as I get the chance I'm going to order some more. I'm not happy with the EWL stuff at all. I let a friends kid use it on his guns before he went to basic with the Air Force and he never gave it back. lol He loved it. I told him to keep it.
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQIiBtU14LyWrqSAJ2ZRD75z_LuNiJC8hYauJLhAIb9yGpV8DFG_g
At $5 an oz, it better be all kinds of special.
With CLP (12oz spray can for under $10 at wal-mart in BreakfreeCLP form), I just pull the charging handle back about an inch, drop a few drops into the carrier exhaust ports from a pot band type bottle, and I'm good for another 500 rounds or so of live fire. Back in my lets burn a gun to the ground with auto fire in less then a year days, was known to go through flat of flats of ammo without a single cleaning of a rig. Granted that the gun was a tad slimming, say into the second thousand rounds onward, it did run like a sewing machine through out the day without needing to be cleaned at least (just need a few drop of CLP every so often along the way).
But will agree, there as some good lubes out for specific condition, just that when it comes to price and overall conditions, basic CLP is hard to beat when it comes to covering all the conditions, (and long way better than using LSA of the past instead).
12/23/2011 10:34:38 AM
I used CLP for a while, and it worked fine. I got tired of the fumes and such and bought some Slip 2000. No fumes. It seems to work really well.
12/23/2011 3:17:25 PM
It just takes a little tiny squirt of it and then you rub it all over the bolt parts, carrier etc. Maybe two or three spritzes of it. I don't use it on the other parts of the gun. I don't put a patch through the bore for storage either. It's for the action parts.I use Slip EWL 2000 for those things, and Tipton Moly grease on the charging handle latch, and the portion of the receiver that the latch grasps.
Try that stuff out. I use the XFR on my 1911s too. You can put anything you want on it, and work the slide. Then wipe it down and put that stuff on it. It feels like you just had a custom fit slide put on it. Trust me, I've used about everything out there. I mean everything. It is the best so far. I haven't used the froglube stuff yet, but I'm thinking it's probably almost identical the way it's described.
Try that stuff out. I use the XFR on my 1911s too. You can put anything you want on it, and work the slide. Then wipe it down and put that stuff on it. It feels like you just had a custom fit slide put on it. Trust me, I've used about everything out there. I mean everything. It is the best so far. I haven't used the froglube stuff yet, but I'm thinking it's probably almost identical the way it's described.
12/23/2011 3:18:59 PM
Originally Posted By Dano523:
At $5 an oz, it better be all kinds of special.
With CLP (12oz spray can for under $10 at wal-mart in BreakfreeCLP form), I just pull the charging handle back about an inch, drop a few drops into the carrier exhaust ports from a pot band type bottle, and I'm good for another 500 rounds or so of live fire. Back in my lets burn a gun to the ground with auto fire in less then a year days, was known to go through flat of flats of ammo without a single cleaning of a rig. Granted that the gun was a tad slimming, say into the second thousand rounds onward, it did run like a sewing machine through out the day without needing to be cleaned at least (just need a few drop of CLP every so often along the way).
But will agree, there as some good lubes out for specific condition, just that when it comes to price and overall conditions, basic CLP is hard to beat when it comes to covering all the conditions, (and long way better than using LSA of the past instead).
Originally Posted By pavlovwolf:
The Hoppe's solvent is fine, Butch's Bore shine is much better. Don't use the Hoppe's oil though, for reasons stated by the Mod.
I will say something here, that I've said before. I have used a lot of different oils on my firearms,and right now, I'm using SLIP EWL 2000. It's pretty good, but the best I've ever used by far, is Blue Wonder Dissotec XFR. I had a few issues with a new LR308. I used different lubes on it and it would still have issues every few rounds. When I used that, perfect.
My ex wife sent me some from Afghanistan. On one mission she ( her unit ) was on she was attached to the 82nd AB, and there were some Rangers or something of the like with the 82nd. She had some issues in the extreme cold at a high elevation, and her M4 wouldn't had some feed issues. It did it with several different mags. She shot it with CLP and it would work a bit and then stop. One of the guys in the SF or Ranger unit gave her some of the Blue Wonder stuff. She lubed the BCG with it and it ran fine. They were out for several days in whatever village/ compound they were patrolling, ( she was questioning and handling females ), and they had a couple of more encounters, and it ran fine then too. She had time to wipe it down and clean the BCG the next night or so, but she kept using the stuff. She won't use anything else. Her M4 had jammed before and she thought is was mag related but it wasn't. She never had an issue after that with it using the Blue Wonder.
That stuff is thick, and slicker than oil shit, and it will stay on the weapon for a very long time. The BCG will stay wet for 500 rounds or more. I fired about 500 one weekend and came home and sat the rifle down and didn't clean it, and I didn't shoot it for a few more weeks. It was still wet when I went to shoot it again. It doesn't attract dirt at all, or clog up or get cruddy with residue either. As soon as I get the chance I'm going to order some more. I'm not happy with the EWL stuff at all. I let a friends kid use it on his guns before he went to basic with the Air Force and he never gave it back. lol He loved it. I told him to keep it.
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQIiBtU14LyWrqSAJ2ZRD75z_LuNiJC8hYauJLhAIb9yGpV8DFG_g
The Hoppe's solvent is fine, Butch's Bore shine is much better. Don't use the Hoppe's oil though, for reasons stated by the Mod.
I will say something here, that I've said before. I have used a lot of different oils on my firearms,and right now, I'm using SLIP EWL 2000. It's pretty good, but the best I've ever used by far, is Blue Wonder Dissotec XFR. I had a few issues with a new LR308. I used different lubes on it and it would still have issues every few rounds. When I used that, perfect.
My ex wife sent me some from Afghanistan. On one mission she ( her unit ) was on she was attached to the 82nd AB, and there were some Rangers or something of the like with the 82nd. She had some issues in the extreme cold at a high elevation, and her M4 wouldn't had some feed issues. It did it with several different mags. She shot it with CLP and it would work a bit and then stop. One of the guys in the SF or Ranger unit gave her some of the Blue Wonder stuff. She lubed the BCG with it and it ran fine. They were out for several days in whatever village/ compound they were patrolling, ( she was questioning and handling females ), and they had a couple of more encounters, and it ran fine then too. She had time to wipe it down and clean the BCG the next night or so, but she kept using the stuff. She won't use anything else. Her M4 had jammed before and she thought is was mag related but it wasn't. She never had an issue after that with it using the Blue Wonder.
That stuff is thick, and slicker than oil shit, and it will stay on the weapon for a very long time. The BCG will stay wet for 500 rounds or more. I fired about 500 one weekend and came home and sat the rifle down and didn't clean it, and I didn't shoot it for a few more weeks. It was still wet when I went to shoot it again. It doesn't attract dirt at all, or clog up or get cruddy with residue either. As soon as I get the chance I'm going to order some more. I'm not happy with the EWL stuff at all. I let a friends kid use it on his guns before he went to basic with the Air Force and he never gave it back. lol He loved it. I told him to keep it.
http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQIiBtU14LyWrqSAJ2ZRD75z_LuNiJC8hYauJLhAIb9yGpV8DFG_g
At $5 an oz, it better be all kinds of special.
With CLP (12oz spray can for under $10 at wal-mart in BreakfreeCLP form), I just pull the charging handle back about an inch, drop a few drops into the carrier exhaust ports from a pot band type bottle, and I'm good for another 500 rounds or so of live fire. Back in my lets burn a gun to the ground with auto fire in less then a year days, was known to go through flat of flats of ammo without a single cleaning of a rig. Granted that the gun was a tad slimming, say into the second thousand rounds onward, it did run like a sewing machine through out the day without needing to be cleaned at least (just need a few drop of CLP every so often along the way).
But will agree, there as some good lubes out for specific condition, just that when it comes to price and overall conditions, basic CLP is hard to beat when it comes to covering all the conditions, (and long way better than using LSA of the past instead).
Buy a bottle. If it isn't the best you've seen, or at least high enough in quality for you want to keep, IM me, and I'll buy it from you for full price plus shipping.
12/23/2011 6:54:12 PM
^^^ dude means business
Anyway, my rifle is currently in APOPKA, FL for repair and inspection. Hopefully it doesn't take them as long to repair and ship the rifle back as it does buying a new mid length or something. The wait time for a new rifle from them is ridiculous.
I might as well make the swap to CLP as soon as I get the rifle back since I have some, now.
Anyway, my rifle is currently in APOPKA, FL for repair and inspection. Hopefully it doesn't take them as long to repair and ship the rifle back as it does buying a new mid length or something. The wait time for a new rifle from them is ridiculous.
I might as well make the swap to CLP as soon as I get the rifle back since I have some, now.
12/23/2011 7:54:07 PM
Originally Posted By pavlovwolf:
Buy a bottle. If it isn't the best you've seen, or at least high enough in quality for you want to keep, IM me, and I'll buy it from you for full price plus shipping.
Buy a bottle. If it isn't the best you've seen, or at least high enough in quality for you want to keep, IM me, and I'll buy it from you for full price plus shipping.
Although staff/mods don't get paid to mod here at the site, one of the perks is samples of products to test from time to time for the site.
So on that note, I'd drop them an email, and see about getting a sample for testing.
But as stated, there are some really good products on the market for specific conditions, but when you start having to mix and match products for different purposes, that where things get kind of screwy.
For giving advice, I believe in the Kiss method (Keep is simple), and have found that something like Sweets gets copper out of barrels fast without the need of a lot of scrubbing, and in regards to a cleaner and lubing agent for the rest of the AR platform, BreakfreeCLP is about as simple and least inexpensive as you will find, short of going gallon cans of something through GSA/ some home brew solutions (Ed's Red comes to mind).
12/23/2011 9:25:48 PM
So use sweet's copper solvent for the bore, and CLP for everything else.
Simple enough.
Simple enough.
12/24/2011 3:25:02 AM
Originally Posted By spider556:
So use sweet's copper solvent for the bore, and CLP for everything else.
Simple enough.
So use sweet's copper solvent for the bore, and CLP for everything else.
Simple enough.
Read the label/direction for use on the Sweets bottle on how to use it!!!!!!
You only leave it in the bore for a few mins to do it's thing, then get it out. It's not, nor needs to be left in the barrel for more than a few mins to dissolve the copper in the barrel (going to be the blue that you are pushing out). As for the bore brush, make sure to neutralize the sweets off the brush as well, or you only to get one cleaning per brass brush since the brass bristles on it going to be dissolved just like the copper in the barrel.
Trust me, when I say you don't have to do a lot of scrubbing with Sweets to get the brass out, I'm not kidding!!! As most, I run a few passes down the bore at most with a brush, and just let the Sweets do the rest (read total time cleaning the bore, less than 3 mins, and done with the chamber and bore, in about 5 mins max).
1/3/2012 8:46:25 PM
UPDATE: Just got off the phone with spikes tactical earlier today, and they said they fixed the problem. The rifle is on it's way back, now, and I will post after shooting it to see if it's fixed. They did not call me to ask what the problem was, so I assume they found it on there own. Great Customer service, Spikes!
1/4/2012 9:06:56 PM
I have a spikes lower with a model 1 upper in 7.62x39.... All that cheap ak47 & sks ammo is steel cased & did the same thing, jammed into the ramps. Model 1 said to use brass ammo (Remington) and in the meantime add powder graphite to the mags. The steel casings don't slide as well as brass. I put 20 consecutive rounds through it with 9 rounds per 10 round mag and had no hang ups.
I also drimelled the top portion of the mags to open it up some. That was done after shooting the brass to see if it would help the steel cases feed.... It didn't
I also drimelled the top portion of the mags to open it up some. That was done after shooting the brass to see if it would help the steel cases feed.... It didn't
1/5/2012 3:42:31 AM
Thanks for the reply, and I'll be careful with what kind of ammo I shoot in the future. However, the rounds that were put through my rifle when it jammed had brass cases, and were the same ones in the photos. Spikes has also concluded that the rifle did, in fact, have parts (or a part) out of spec, and proceeded to bring it back to optimal, functioning condition.
I was given the option to use blue-boxed, monarch ammo when I first got the gun. I was fortunate enough to find information that laquer coated ammunition is not the best to use. If I had used it, I'm sure the gunk from the laquer would have just added to the problems I was experiencing. The ammo had a sort of dark green case, with a red dye or something on it. Would that be steel, too?
I was given the option to use blue-boxed, monarch ammo when I first got the gun. I was fortunate enough to find information that laquer coated ammunition is not the best to use. If I had used it, I'm sure the gunk from the laquer would have just added to the problems I was experiencing. The ammo had a sort of dark green case, with a red dye or something on it. Would that be steel, too?
1/5/2012 10:56:05 PM
I'm not 100% sure on that... My general rule is that if ammo is dirt cheap there is a reason for it.... There is a reason hornady can sell ammo at twice the price of federal and people still buy it like crazy! It's all I shoot in my .223.
1/9/2012 1:07:29 AM
UPDATE: Still no word from Spike's on when I'll get my rifle back. Been almost 3 weeks since I shipped it. I'm thinking about calling them tomorrow.
1/9/2012 1:08:07 AM
They have been pretty stacked with backorders, but I don't understand why it would take them this long to repair a rifle that's already built.
1/10/2012 2:03:43 PM
Got an email from UPS. My rifle is on it's way back.
1/12/2012 5:48:30 PM
Rifle is back, and it looks like they put a completely new upper on it. I have had no problems with the new one so far, but a range report is coming soon to test it out.
1/12/2012 10:26:03 PM
did it come back with a service slip saying what was done or what the problem was?
1/12/2012 11:17:12 PM
No. It has an orange tag zip tied to the upper receiver saying who built it and on what day. They loosened my mag release button (I tightened it because I thought that was the problem), and pinned a new upper on it.
For what it's worth, it feels like the rifle charges completely different from the first upper that was on the gun. I think they fixed the problem, and I'm happy to own an AR-15, now. I emailed them about a week ago asking what was wrong and why it was taking so long, but I never heard back.
For what it's worth, it feels like the rifle charges completely different from the first upper that was on the gun. I think they fixed the problem, and I'm happy to own an AR-15, now. I emailed them about a week ago asking what was wrong and why it was taking so long, but I never heard back.
1/14/2012 7:29:06 PM
New Upper receiver sent by Spikes Tactical.
Range Report:
First Impressions- The new upper cycles much different than the original upper. Action is tighter, cycle is stronger and more crisp. Did not have a single malfunction even after 180 rounds were put through it. The only oil on the rifle was the oil that Spikes put on it when they shipped it back. I simply took it out of the box, put magazines in it, and pulled the trigger.
Untouched, the new upper shoots higher than the previous one by about 3 inches, but after zero on the MBUS sights, we managed to get really tight groups. With iron sights, I believe you could not possibly reach the full potential of this rifle. Spider556 likability: 10/10
As this is my first AR-15, I did note a few things that differed from what I PREVIOUSLY THOUGHT about the M16, AR15, M4 platform. The people that say "an AR-15 has no kick", are dead wrong. The kick is minimal compared to higher calibers, but without a doubt it's there. Also, this gun is pretty loud. Much louder than other guns I've shot. Video games don't do it justice. Lastly, this gun is heavy. Maybe not as heavy as other guns, but it's not a feather by any means.
I will add pictures later. Thank you all for being so helpful.
Range Report:
First Impressions- The new upper cycles much different than the original upper. Action is tighter, cycle is stronger and more crisp. Did not have a single malfunction even after 180 rounds were put through it. The only oil on the rifle was the oil that Spikes put on it when they shipped it back. I simply took it out of the box, put magazines in it, and pulled the trigger.
Untouched, the new upper shoots higher than the previous one by about 3 inches, but after zero on the MBUS sights, we managed to get really tight groups. With iron sights, I believe you could not possibly reach the full potential of this rifle. Spider556 likability: 10/10
As this is my first AR-15, I did note a few things that differed from what I PREVIOUSLY THOUGHT about the M16, AR15, M4 platform. The people that say "an AR-15 has no kick", are dead wrong. The kick is minimal compared to higher calibers, but without a doubt it's there. Also, this gun is pretty loud. Much louder than other guns I've shot. Video games don't do it justice. Lastly, this gun is heavy. Maybe not as heavy as other guns, but it's not a feather by any means.
I will add pictures later. Thank you all for being so helpful.
1/15/2012 4:53:21 PM
Originally Posted By Spikestacticalsniper:
I have a spikes lower with a model 1 upper in 7.62x39.... All that cheap ak47 & sks ammo is steel cased & did the same thing, jammed into the ramps. Model 1 said to use brass ammo (Remington) and in the meantime add powder graphite to the mags. The steel casings don't slide as well as brass. I put 20 consecutive rounds through it with 9 rounds per 10 round mag and had no hang ups.
I also drimelled the top portion of the mags to open it up some. That was done after shooting the brass to see if it would help the steel cases feed.... It didn't
I have a spikes lower with a model 1 upper in 7.62x39.... All that cheap ak47 & sks ammo is steel cased & did the same thing, jammed into the ramps. Model 1 said to use brass ammo (Remington) and in the meantime add powder graphite to the mags. The steel casings don't slide as well as brass. I put 20 consecutive rounds through it with 9 rounds per 10 round mag and had no hang ups.
I also drimelled the top portion of the mags to open it up some. That was done after shooting the brass to see if it would help the steel cases feed.... It didn't
Dude, don't do that. Graphite will eat your rifle alive. When you have aluminum and steel in the same place (mags, upper and lower interiors, etc) graphite will actually cause a reaction that will eat the steel. Generally not good
1/18/2012 9:48:20 PM
I am now questioning if my Spike's ST-15 is having a similar issue. I have tried different ammo, mags (all Magpul Pmags), cleaning, lubing, and a few strategic curses with profanity. I see consistent markings on the brass where the round jams, typically, at a slight angle into the feed ramps. I am seeing this issue about 1 in 15 rounds since the day I pulled it out of the box.
After reading this, I am calling Spike's tomorrow.
I'll admit to being the new guy in the Black Rifle Club, and I am sure it won't be my last now that I have the fever. In fact, I am about to up my membership on this forum, since it has already proven to be very valuable (even before this topic).
After reading this, I am calling Spike's tomorrow.
I'll admit to being the new guy in the Black Rifle Club, and I am sure it won't be my last now that I have the fever. In fact, I am about to up my membership on this forum, since it has already proven to be very valuable (even before this topic).
1/19/2012 11:12:35 AM
Just got off the phone with Spike's Tactical, and I'll be sending it back for them to help me out...
As a side note, their customer service team was outstanding! They really seemed top notch.
As a side note, their customer service team was outstanding! They really seemed top notch.
1/20/2012 3:43:08 PM
Yeah, they're pretty good about that. The only thing I didn't understand was that once or twice I would call them during their normal business hours and I would get their voicemail as if they had already left, or they weren't there that day.
Expect the warranty repair process to take 2-4 weeks.
Expect the warranty repair process to take 2-4 weeks.
3/1/2012 10:30:28 AM
Just a follow-up... Spike's warranty process was quick and efficient. I had my rifle back in almost exactly 2 weeks, and I'm happy to report that I'm not seeing the short-stroking or failures so far.
Thanks, Spider, for sharing that issue.. It put me on the right path to get my issue resolved.
Big thumbs-up for Spike's Tactical customer service team!
Thanks, Spider, for sharing that issue.. It put me on the right path to get my issue resolved.
Big thumbs-up for Spike's Tactical customer service team!
3/5/2012 4:22:39 PM
Going to call today as well too. My rifle is doing the same thing as the OP. I shot about 400 rounds through it before it started though. 400 flawless rounds then became a jam-o-matic. Nearly identical james to the OP.
