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Removing barrel pin?
11/7/2011 5:47:06 PM
In another thread, someone recommended heating the barrel pin to red hot to remove it. I think that method would introduce enough heat into the trunnion to affect whatever heat treating was done. I've always pushed them out cold. What say the experts?
11/7/2011 6:13:18 PM
red hot would be bad........
nor needed
nor needed
11/7/2011 7:22:42 PM
Originally Posted By sleepercaprice1:
In another thread, someone recommended heating the barrel pin to red hot to remove it. I think that method would introduce enough heat into the trunnion to affect whatever heat treating was done. I've always pushed them out cold. What say the experts?
In another thread, someone recommended heating the barrel pin to red hot to remove it. I think that method would introduce enough heat into the trunnion to affect whatever heat treating was done. I've always pushed them out cold. What say the experts?
You are kidding right?
All you will accomplish is ruining a trunnion .
Also think about it a red hot piece of metal will mushroom when any force is applied to it.
11/7/2011 8:03:40 PM
Best thing to do is use penetrating oil,(god Iove the sex talk) let it set and either use a press or a short punch and big hammer...get on YouTube there are a lot of videos there on the subject....
11/7/2011 8:04:56 PM
Best thing to do is use penetrating oil,(god I love the sex talk) let it set and either use a press or a short punch and big hammer...get on YouTube there are a lot of videos there on the subject....
11/8/2011 1:15:44 AM
if you don't have a press you can also use a vice, ace hardware has hard pins of various sizes that work well and are cheap
11/8/2011 8:22:04 AM
Originally Posted By sleepercaprice1:
In another thread, someone recommended heating the barrel pin to red hot to remove it. I think that method would introduce enough heat into the trunnion to affect whatever heat treating was done. I've always pushed them out cold. What say the experts?
In another thread, someone recommended heating the barrel pin to red hot to remove it. I think that method would introduce enough heat into the trunnion to affect whatever heat treating was done. I've always pushed them out cold. What say the experts?
First of all, no one here is an expert.
Secondly, that is not what you claimed, you claimed it would destroy the hardness of the trunnion. Your buddy claimed it would ruin the temper.
What you leave out of this thread is that you follow me around and hang on every word I say because you don't like me personally because of our arguments over the generation gap.
I claimed you aren't going to get the trunnion hot enough with mapp or propane to ruin the trunnion.
Now, I am sure you will get other old men that don't like me to back up your claims no doubt.
11/8/2011 8:24:51 AM
The OP also recommends awesomeness in gun smithing such as drilling holes in your AR gas block to try and hack in gas tubes for other configurations.
The OP also chases me around and contradicts my 20 years of construction experience.
Not confident in his own assumptions, he comes here for your vindication.
heat or no heat, I really don't give a fuck.
The OP also claims he has never had a pin that won't come out, proving he's demilled few, if any AK kits.
The OP also chases me around and contradicts my 20 years of construction experience.
Not confident in his own assumptions, he comes here for your vindication.
heat or no heat, I really don't give a fuck.
The OP also claims he has never had a pin that won't come out, proving he's demilled few, if any AK kits.
11/8/2011 8:28:28 AM
Originally Posted By 32ndsigbn:
You are kidding right?
All you will accomplish is ruining a trunnion .
Also think about it a red hot piece of metal will mushroom when any force is applied to it.
Originally Posted By sleepercaprice1:
In another thread, someone recommended heating the barrel pin to red hot to remove it. I think that method would introduce enough heat into the trunnion to affect whatever heat treating was done. I've always pushed them out cold. What say the experts?
In another thread, someone recommended heating the barrel pin to red hot to remove it. I think that method would introduce enough heat into the trunnion to affect whatever heat treating was done. I've always pushed them out cold. What say the experts?
You are kidding right?
All you will accomplish is ruining a trunnion .
Also think about it a red hot piece of metal will mushroom when any force is applied to it.
He's embellishing the truth of what I meant and using your forumn to try and discredit me. I did say red hot, bnut I forgot the element I was talking to. Actually, what I was saying wasn't meant for him at all.
I need to be very specific around him and his buddies, as they hang on every word I say.
I said heating up the barrel pin to push it out won't ruin the hardness of the trunnion, and it won't.
Then he started telling me that propane melts alloys and so on.
You have to be very careful around here around people that don't like your point of view, because they will play Ken Starr with you.
He's trying to make you think I am heating it to a forging level, I am not.
11/8/2011 8:51:19 AM
Now, I will say this. Can you destroy the hardness of a trunnion with heat? You bet.
Take the WTC for instance, the reason the structure failed (and I am sure the OP will contradict this because he is a construction authority despite never having worked in the industry) was because the heat from the fire destroyed the hardness of the steel structure and it collapsed.
Standard old construction beam steel. Look what it took to make it fail, jet fuel acting as a catalyst and burning for extended periods until the hardness failed, and the structure collapsed.
I also told the OP that during the AW ban,many manufacturers and hobby builders alike uesd MAPP to solder on and remove muzzle brakes on carbon steel barrels, of course there was no response to this.
Red hot, probably not the best term, because look at the outcome.
Take the WTC for instance, the reason the structure failed (and I am sure the OP will contradict this because he is a construction authority despite never having worked in the industry) was because the heat from the fire destroyed the hardness of the steel structure and it collapsed.
Standard old construction beam steel. Look what it took to make it fail, jet fuel acting as a catalyst and burning for extended periods until the hardness failed, and the structure collapsed.
I also told the OP that during the AW ban,many manufacturers and hobby builders alike uesd MAPP to solder on and remove muzzle brakes on carbon steel barrels, of course there was no response to this.
Red hot, probably not the best term, because look at the outcome.
11/8/2011 10:40:16 AM
I have found some barrel pins bind to the barrel after awhile. Sometimes if you push the barrel in ever so slightly it loosens up. Without a press it would be hard, because some barrel pins just need a little more force than you can safely apply any other way. 
11/8/2011 3:43:20 PM
some press out easier than others, Romy kits sometimes are a real B*tch, for me I use press first, if really tight maybe let some oil soak in, if still a no go then I put a little heat to it. That's what has worked for me but I have not built many kits like some of you guys around here
11/8/2011 4:13:35 PM
Wow, somebody's butt hurt, I think. The guy recommends heating a barrel pin red hot to remove it and now it's my fault for questioning the method. Back-pedaling at it's finest.
11/8/2011 4:40:54 PM
Originally Posted By h2xmark:
some press out easier than others, Romy kits sometimes are a real B*tch, for me I use press first, if really tight maybe let some oil soak in, if still a no go then I put a little heat to it. That's what has worked for me but I have not built many kits like some of you guys around here
some press out easier than others, Romy kits sometimes are a real B*tch, for me I use press first, if really tight maybe let some oil soak in, if still a no go then I put a little heat to it. That's what has worked for me but I have not built many kits like some of you guys around here
I agree. Romanian pins ban be very difficult to get out. I have had them come out with reasonable pressure, but have had to apply heat to get a few out.
Ever get a nice popping noise pushing out a Romy pin? Push, push, push......pop!
11/10/2011 10:47:21 AM
Originally Posted By patriot73:
I agree. Romanian pins ban be very difficult to get out. I have had them come out with reasonable pressure, but have had to apply heat to get a few out.
Ever get a nice popping noise pushing out a Romy pin? Push, push, push......pop!
Originally Posted By h2xmark:
some press out easier than others, Romy kits sometimes are a real B*tch, for me I use press first, if really tight maybe let some oil soak in, if still a no go then I put a little heat to it. That's what has worked for me but I have not built many kits like some of you guys around here
some press out easier than others, Romy kits sometimes are a real B*tch, for me I use press first, if really tight maybe let some oil soak in, if still a no go then I put a little heat to it. That's what has worked for me but I have not built many kits like some of you guys around here
I agree. Romanian pins ban be very difficult to get out. I have had them come out with reasonable pressure, but have had to apply heat to get a few out.
Ever get a nice popping noise pushing out a Romy pin? Push, push, push......pop!
POP PING!
First time we heard that we thought we had broke something. Afterwards that was the sound you knew things were finally moving.
11/10/2011 1:31:54 PM
Me too first time I heard the is I assumed I broke something and since I read on several posts when it pops it moves I got more at ease... Now I want to hear that right away and not 4 pumps later.......
11/10/2011 2:09:09 PM
Kinda like the first time a kid shoots a Garand and the en bloc pops out of the receiver....
"Hey kid, you broke it."
"Hey kid, you broke it."
11/10/2011 4:42:00 PM
I've done 3 Romanian kits and 2 Polish. The Romanian "G" kits were the toughest pins to get out. On 2 of them, the pin was galled. It looked to me like they drill the hole a bit undersized and pressed the pin with an interference fit. I found that getting the pin to start moving was the hard part. Once it moved a bit, it was easier the rest of the way. I used an anvil with a hole in it for a backer and the biggest punch I have that would clear the trunnion hole. Using a 3# hammer, it only took a few good whacks to get it going. From there on it wasn't too bad.
A good friend of mine has built several and swears by using an air chisel and a bit he ground to fit. He's had good success with his method.
A good friend of mine has built several and swears by using an air chisel and a bit he ground to fit. He's had good success with his method.
11/11/2011 8:18:44 PM
Originally Posted By patriot73:
Ever get a nice popping noise pushing out a Romy pin? Push, push, push......pop!
Ever get a nice popping noise pushing out a Romy pin? Push, push, push......pop!
Yes, and then some.
Had a Romanian pin that would not budge on a 20 ton press. We tried everything we knew, including placing a big plate of steel on top of the press frame and hitting it with a sledgehammer to see if the shock would break it loose.
After an hour of frustration, we sat down to have a beer and re-think matters - but left the press totally wound-up. So we're sitting on the other end of the shop, and suddenly, out of the blue, the press lets out a pop like a gunshot, and jumps about 1/2" off the ground.
I guess it finally gave up, lol. After that, it took an armfull, but it came out (and went back in) just fine.
11/11/2011 8:21:50 PM
Originally Posted By sleepercaprice1:
I've done 3 Romanian kits and 2 Polish. The Romanian "G" kits were the toughest pins to get out. On 2 of them, the pin was galled. It looked to me like they drill the hole a bit undersized and pressed the pin with an interference fit.
I've done 3 Romanian kits and 2 Polish. The Romanian "G" kits were the toughest pins to get out. On 2 of them, the pin was galled. It looked to me like they drill the hole a bit undersized and pressed the pin with an interference fit.
Uh, they *do*. You have to produce some sort of interference fit, else you're not assured of a truly solid connection.
It's just that some (Romanian, for sure) tend to use an almost ridiculous fit for a pin of that size. The one I described above measured at over 0.003".. for a bore that's only .275" or so.
