I tore down my walther because the trigger was getting stuck in the fully back position. I found that the hammer pin was rotating counter-clockwise just a little bit every time i pulled the trigger, and the "cocking piece" was getting stuck in the up position on the side of the hammer pin. Can this be remedied? Is locktighting the pin to the right side of the frame an option? Any help is appreciated.
The Walther hammer pin should have a small tab on the large flange portion that fits into a notch on the frame.
This should prevent the pin from rotating.
Make sure the tab is present and is fully seated down into the notch on the frame.
If the hammer pin is rotating enough to cause the sear block to jam, something is very much out of order.
The tab should prevent that, even if it's fairly loose in the notch. Make sure it's all the way down into the frame cuts.
If the tab is loose in the notch, you can buy a new hammer pin that hopefully will have a wider tab, or you can try using a staking punch to slightly close the notch on the frame.
Preferably, you'd want to use a staking punch to widen the tab by flattening it, but the tab would probably just break off.
If you work in the notch on the frame, remember, you can buy a new hammer pin a LOT cheaper than you can replace a frame.
Somehow, the tab has been seared off. Now I just have to find a place that sells the hammer pin.
Here's some sources of Walther PP series parts.
You'll need to take into account whether it's blued or stainless, who actually made it, and the age of the gun since things did change over the years. I'm not sure if a WWII surplus part would fit, but I think any part made for a PPK/s model will fit.
I'm NOT SURE if a new S&W part will fit unless you have a S&W gun, and then you should get a genuine S&W part.
Note that the PP and PPK/s used the same parts so you don't have to have a PPK/s specific part.
Surplus Walther's and Interarms produced versions.
Genuine German made Walther parts.
Gotta call, but possibly the best parts house.