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Anybody do away with the firing pin block & levers inside the frame?
11/22/2010 8:20:32 AM
Got a new p18-9 nice gun runs like a scalded dog but the trigger sucks. One the trigger has alot of up-down movement, trigger actually moves down then back when pulled. Whats a good trigger to replace it with, dlask or guncraft? Also as the subject reads are the paras basically 80 series where the levers in the frame could be pulled and a TJ's frame slot filler be used? I have always heard that the 80 sereis safeties always added more weight to the trigger, makes sense to me. I am probably going to try to stone the hammer hooks a little and sear nose, run a 19 or 17 lb M.S. and hopefully ditch the FP block and frame levers. Thanks for any help on the 80 series question
11/24/2010 1:26:15 AM
Yes, the JT frame filler will work to fill in the slot when you pull the 80 series FP block hardware.
I run the Dlask trigger in the long version on my para's.
As for working over the stock FCG, it's all MIM, so don't go buck wild since it will not last long. If and when the time comes, you will find something like a Nowlin Bar stockmilled FCG will hold a edge and last way longer when tuned.
I run the Dlask trigger in the long version on my para's.
As for working over the stock FCG, it's all MIM, so don't go buck wild since it will not last long. If and when the time comes, you will find something like a Nowlin Bar stockmilled FCG will hold a edge and last way longer when tuned.
11/24/2010 6:52:38 PM
nice I thought about the Dlask trigger but the 2 reviews on Brownells of the triggers were both bad. Comments like "gravel" and 'worse after then before" made me hesitate on it. How was yours as far as install, any extra work to get it right? I do like the fact that it has take-up tabs as compared to the guncraft which did not. Thanks for any info on it.
11/24/2010 7:19:12 PM
If you note that on both the pistols, the frames/guns have been glass bead blasted. This was done after I cleaned up both pistols, including burs in the trigger side slots.
The Dlask triggers are magnesium and titanium to keep the weight down, and that material will groove quickly if the matting surface in the frame is not smooth (read guys never polished the frame slots, and just threw the trigger in, then complained when the frame burs marred the hell out of the triggers).
If you looking for a trigger that will work with the stock frame in it's current condition (burs and all), then you may be better off going to a steel bow material trigger, but keep in mind with the extra weight of such, there is going to be higher limit in which you can set the trigger pull weight not have the trigger bounce the sear open.
Both shown pistols have trigger pull weights in the 2.5lb range, no take up creep, and about a total of 1/8" total trigger movement, which is normal for all my target type 1911's. In regards to my 1911 carry pieces, the same, but the trigger weight at 4lbs instead.
The Dlask triggers are magnesium and titanium to keep the weight down, and that material will groove quickly if the matting surface in the frame is not smooth (read guys never polished the frame slots, and just threw the trigger in, then complained when the frame burs marred the hell out of the triggers).
If you looking for a trigger that will work with the stock frame in it's current condition (burs and all), then you may be better off going to a steel bow material trigger, but keep in mind with the extra weight of such, there is going to be higher limit in which you can set the trigger pull weight not have the trigger bounce the sear open.
Both shown pistols have trigger pull weights in the 2.5lb range, no take up creep, and about a total of 1/8" total trigger movement, which is normal for all my target type 1911's. In regards to my 1911 carry pieces, the same, but the trigger weight at 4lbs instead.
