How dirty does your 10/22 get with a suppressor?

Took my boy out shooting on Monday with my suppressed (SilencerCo sparrow aluminum) 10-22 (New and with upgrades) and after about 50 rounds I started getting FTF, FTE and one case that I had to take out with a pocket knife (It was empty but stuck and of course I forgot my cleaning rod) and I have the upgraded extractor but it didn't even touch this round. I don't remember my old 10-22 (without a can) having these problems. I did notice my bolt was filthy (worse than normal) just after about 150 rounds. I am hoping to clean it well and get back out on Saturday.

I am going to try to eliminated certain variables

Clean the chamber well

Shoot with and without the can

Get different ammo

Find a factory 10rd mag



Also - Would having the bolt and chamber coated with Cerakote DFAC™ (http://redcreektactical.com/cerakotecoatingservices.html) help in extraction?

I used the can on my 22/45 and my TacSol 22 ar15 upper (before I sold it) and never had a problem with either the ammo or excessive build up.


Thoughts and tips would be greatly appreciated






Variables

Rifle -10-22 (made 2009-2010)

upgrades VQ extractor, and trigger and bolt buffer

Barrel 1999 18.5 cut to 16" and threaded

Magazine (Butler Creek steel lips)

Ammo Fed Bulk pack

The suppressor is going to keep lots of filth in the action. CCI ammo has shown to be fairly clean compared to many oyhers. It is more money but is cleaner. I shoot Dynapoints in the pistol. Filthy. CCI in the rifles and much cleaner. Try Minimags and Standard velocity both. I shoot a lot of SV in bolt guns. It may not work with your auto, try both.
eta; Using CLP in the action may help. I use it in the pistol [ MK III ] . In the AR's too.

I ran 750 rounds through my 10/22 in one day, all through the can, not long ago. It was filthy. Mine still has the stock extractor but had no issues with extraction.

Mine gets dirty, but I have never had any problems like yours.

I ran 100 rounds through a brand new (only had 100rounds through it before this outing) 10/22 Tactical with my old SWR Specter (CCI standard velocity). Not a problem. The 10/22 silenced get dirty but not enough to bind it up in 50 rounds. There is something else going on here. How many rounds do you have in your BC mags?

"Find a factory 10rd mag"

I would try this for sure. While I like the BC mags okay (due to the higher capacity), I find them to be much more unreliable than the plain old Ruger 10 rounders. I haven't tried one of the new BX25 mags yet.

Get some they rock.

Try something other than the Federal bulk pack, my 10-22 does not cycle very well with the bulk pack.

Cool, will pick up a couple.

I sold my 10/22 after how filthy it got when shooting suppressed. It didn't have many malfunctions but I got tired of being covered in it's refuse every time I loaded a fresh magazine. I shot thousands and thousands of rounds through mine though and it was well broken in. I discovered that if you kept it lubed it would just keep on running. Now I only have one nasty 22; my Ruger MKIII/Tac Sol. Never cleaned it and it has several thousand rounds though it. Little CLP now and then and it's all good It doesn't seem get crud all over the mag like the 10/22 did. I exclusively use Federal bulk pack in the blue 525 round loose carton for plinky and save my good subs for shooting paper.

In theory, it shouldn't even need the extractor to function, and suppressor boosted blowback should eject empties even more forcefully.
Mine runs fine, but it is filthy after some suppressor use. This is with a Bentz match chamber, a tuffer buffer, and running subsonic and standard velocity ammo almost exclusively.
The primary function issue that I've found is that the extra suppressor blowback causes dirty magazine issues. I run some very,very old 10/22 mags (one is 23 years old at least), and one of them is on its last legs. Clean, it runs great. Dirty, and it's a PITA with constant stovepipes and double feeds due to spring tension going all over the place when filthy, and the rotor sticking and binding. Run it with clean mags (more is better), and you may see an improvement.
The bad thing about BCs (even the great steel lips models) is that they don't break down easily. That's one thing the new BX25s have going for them from a suppressor shooter's point of view.

Well I guess I will get a 10rd first and hopefully get out this weekend with the boy for some bonding time.

Have any of you polished the insides of the receiver?

yep




And it increased the time between cleanings because the carbon did not stick to the receiver.




My other 10/22 had the inside of the receiver, bolt, and face of the barrel coated with KG Gunkote with Teflon. The small amount of lube is on the recoil spring and guide rod, not on the bolt. I can shoot it suppressed all day and never have a stoppage.

Fook - How/with what did you polish the insides (dremel, hand, etc...)?


Thanks

Blasted with extra fine glass beads and rubbed the hell out of it with Mothers Aluminum Wheel Polish.

Started with a clean 10/22 Tactical and SWR Specter I. Lubed the bolt with thin film of CLP. Went 200 rounds of CCI Standard Velocity. With no malfunctions through a BX-25 mag. Went to take pictures of the action but there was very little to capture. Pulled the silencer and took pics. As you can see a little bit of flecks came from the silencer as well as a light carbon build up starting on the baffles (has a frosted look to them in the picture). It was so light that my fingers were smuging off the carbon/build up as I handled the baffles to take the picture. There was next to nothing in the tube itself.
So this is many more rounds than the OP.

Make it a sbr. My buddy's charger with a 4 inch barrel doesn't get much dirtier when i put my silencer on it.

Well I cleaned it well an took it back out on Saturday with the boy and shot another 100-200 rounds through it before it got too crowded with shooters (i.e. people not shooting safely with proper back-stops or muzzle control).


And It worked better this time I only had one Failure to Fire, other than that it ran pretty good. I did wipe down all the lubrication I could with a cloth leaving only a light residue on it and that seemed to help with keeping it clean.......maybe I was running it too wet like an AR and this was part of my problem


I am hoping to get more range time this Saturday weather permitting to put more rounds through it.

I need to invest in a magazine loader it seems my boy shoots a heck of a lot faster than I reload

It will get better in time as the bolt and receiver needs some more rounds through it to be broken in.

Polishing the inside of the receiver is easy - just use a dremel with a wire brush wheel. It has rails molded into the inside and that's all you need to hit - just the load bearing parts. You can follow up with a cloth wheel and compound if you want but it's most important just to get rid of the surface roughness. For the bolt I used an electric drill with wire brush wheels chucked in using a vise to hold the bolt. For heavy machining marks start with 100 or 200 grit sandpaper and work your way up to finer grits then go to the wire brush wheel. I used both steel and brass brush wheels.

Of course you disassemble the bolt first and polish the extractor and ejector as well. They should move absolutely freely. It's also very important to polish the guide rod under the return spring. Once all the load bearing surfaces are polished you should only need very minimal lube. I use a teflon dry lube inside the receiver and it works great. Also great inside the magazines as dry lube does not pick up carbon the way oiled parts will. Once you get everything smooth it should run any standard pressure ammo - then you can try different brands to see what's cleanest.

As for magazines the stock 10 round rotary mags are the way to go as they are the most reliable ones available. None of the high cap mags are as consistently reliable. If you want more rounds on the gun just get a tri mag holder.

Have you triedthe BX-25 from Ruger? They are running very well.

I'm not saying they're bad, just that nothing else is as consistently reliable out of the box as the stock ruger mags. I have an aluminum 25 rounder from tactical innovations that has been fantastic - once I got it adjusted properly. The rotary mags do not need to be adjusted.

Give them a shot. No adjusting necessary.

Mine gets real gritty but still runs. I lube it a little every now and then to keep the bolt moving. Stock extractor that's 15 years old. Must have over 10,000 rounds thru it by now. The last 2,000 or so I put thru suppressed. Haven't cleaned it too well...maybe once since I got my suppressor. I shoot factory 10 rounders. Not much of a problem here. Its definitely a lot dirtier than unsuppressed but it kind of reached a certain point of dirty and never went beyond that....at least not enough to fail on me.

Edit after reading the last few post before this: Makes sense that because your's in newer it can bind up versus mine that has a ton of rounds thru it. Just shoot it more and keep it wet. Clean the action quick and keep shooting. Forgot to mention I shot primarily Rem Subsonics lately but it also runs all the bulk packs fine.

In general I am a huge fan of a good wet lube (like mpro 7), however for guns that get rediculously dirty (I.E. AR's) when running suppressed I find a good dry lube (such as hornady's) helps keep the buildup down.

Also, as far as the mags, get the Butler Creek STEEL LIPS mags. I have never had a problem with ANY of them, for over 15 years now.... -However, The plastic lips ones suck balls. Also, as far as cleaning them, it's usually not all that important, but if they get real bad, use a good cleaner like mpro7 or shaving cream and hot water, flush them well, they use compressed air to blow them out. -Again, you can use some dry lube if you want, but any lube, esp. wet, will attract carbon.

Peace out yo,
-JTR

I had problems with mine when I used oil. It makes all the crap stick to the bolt. Thes best thing I think you can do is switch to a dry film lubricant like hopes dri-lube. Coat the inside of the reciever and the bolt. Once I did that I didnt have any problems. Keep in mind this is all unsuppressed. I just got my suppressor on the 13th so I havnt got to shoot it on the 10/22 yet. But I would think the same principle applies, no wet = nothing for powder residue to stick to = running better. magazines could be a problem to. I highly recoment the tactical innovations TI-25 alluminum mags. Once you get them adjusted right they run like a striped assed ape, and they can be disassembaled for cleaning. I also put a little of the dri lube in the mags to. One downfall of them is the price, but TI does make a polymer version that is cheaper. My wife has 2 or 3 for her 10/22 and they function just as well as my alluminum ones.

ETA: JTR beat me to the dri lube. I type slow.

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