Archived Posts » 60,595,333
Broken Ponsness Warren Autodrive :(
4/15/2012 4:10:08 AM
Has anyone tried warranty service with Ponsness Warren? The connecting arm between the motor and my 1050 just broke. It's only 30 days old.
4/15/2012 9:06:11 AM
from the web site
LIMITED WARRANTY
For a period of one year after delivery from the factory, we warrant all our
loading tools against defect in workmanship or materials under normal use
for which the tools and equipment are designed and intended.
Our obligations under this warranty is limited to repairing or replacing tools
or equipment upon notice of the defect and upon having the tool or equipment
returned to the factory, freight prepaid, within one year of sale.
For a period of one year after delivery from the factory, we warrant all our
loading tools against defect in workmanship or materials under normal use
for which the tools and equipment are designed and intended.
Our obligations under this warranty is limited to repairing or replacing tools
or equipment upon notice of the defect and upon having the tool or equipment
returned to the factory, freight prepaid, within one year of sale.
4/15/2012 9:41:44 AM
We have some very good technical folks on this forum. Of which I am not one.
That said: That a darn heavy bit of steel to snap in half. From the pictures it appears to be some kind of cyclic fatigue. If you go to the ARP bolts website they have a very good description of common failures, and a way to do a little bit of investigation.
ARP Bolts - Common Failures
Hopefully it is a simple matter of a rust pit, injury, or manufacturing defect in the rod which propogated a stress fracture.
That said if I spent that much money on a press I would be doing a bit of investigating that the assembly was spot on and that you don't have any geometry issues, or hang ups in the press that are causing extra stress on that part. A threaded rod can be very good at absorbing push and pull stress if it is properly made. Start putting much side load on it and you can see a stress fracture start at a stress riser and it is a foregone conclusion that it will fail a certain number of cycles after that.
That said: That a darn heavy bit of steel to snap in half. From the pictures it appears to be some kind of cyclic fatigue. If you go to the ARP bolts website they have a very good description of common failures, and a way to do a little bit of investigation.
ARP Bolts - Common Failures
Hopefully it is a simple matter of a rust pit, injury, or manufacturing defect in the rod which propogated a stress fracture.
That said if I spent that much money on a press I would be doing a bit of investigating that the assembly was spot on and that you don't have any geometry issues, or hang ups in the press that are causing extra stress on that part. A threaded rod can be very good at absorbing push and pull stress if it is properly made. Start putting much side load on it and you can see a stress fracture start at a stress riser and it is a foregone conclusion that it will fail a certain number of cycles after that.
4/16/2012 9:37:01 PM
We want to know where this is going.
Did you get satisfaction on the phone?
Did you get satisfaction on the phone?
4/16/2012 11:43:43 PM
Originally Posted By makintrax73:
We have some very good technical folks on this forum. Of which I am not one.
That said: That a darn heavy bit of steel to snap in half. From the pictures it appears to be some kind of cyclic fatigue. If you go to the ARP bolts website they have a very good description of common failures, and a way to do a little bit of investigation.
ARP Bolts - Common Failures
Hopefully it is a simple matter of a rust pit, injury, or manufacturing defect in the rod which propogated a stress fracture.
That said if I spent that much money on a press I would be doing a bit of investigating that the assembly was spot on and that you don't have any geometry issues, or hang ups in the press that are causing extra stress on that part. A threaded rod can be very good at absorbing push and pull stress if it is properly made. Start putting much side load on it and you can see a stress fracture start at a stress riser and it is a foregone conclusion that it will fail a certain number of cycles after that.
We have some very good technical folks on this forum. Of which I am not one.
That said: That a darn heavy bit of steel to snap in half. From the pictures it appears to be some kind of cyclic fatigue. If you go to the ARP bolts website they have a very good description of common failures, and a way to do a little bit of investigation.
ARP Bolts - Common Failures
Hopefully it is a simple matter of a rust pit, injury, or manufacturing defect in the rod which propogated a stress fracture.
That said if I spent that much money on a press I would be doing a bit of investigating that the assembly was spot on and that you don't have any geometry issues, or hang ups in the press that are causing extra stress on that part. A threaded rod can be very good at absorbing push and pull stress if it is properly made. Start putting much side load on it and you can see a stress fracture start at a stress riser and it is a foregone conclusion that it will fail a certain number of cycles after that.
I can't determine for certain from the photo, but the rod appears to have a bend. This causes a bending moment that aggravates the stress at the failure location we see, adding to the reversible axial load which is another factor.
4/16/2012 11:59:35 PM
You might try an IM to ReefRaider.
He posts a pic of 2 1050's with the autodrive.
He might have some tips and help.
4/17/2012 12:00:32 AM
wow, I just got mine up and running yesterday
4/21/2012 10:02:32 PM
I'm waiting for hondaciv to tell us his wife survived the blowback from his racist rants at the hospital and is resting comfortably at home, and then fill us in on getting his machine up and running.
It'd be nice to hear that the company solved his problems and I really want to know how this shakes out.
Who's with me?
It'd be nice to hear that the company solved his problems and I really want to know how this shakes out.
Who's with me?
4/23/2012 7:39:42 PM
Originally Posted By kaos:
I'm waiting for hondaciv to tell us his wife survived the blowback from his racist rants at the hospital and is resting comfortably at home, and then fill us in on getting his machine up and running.
It'd be nice to hear that the company solved his problems and I really want to know how this shakes out.
Who's with me?
I'm waiting for hondaciv to tell us his wife survived the blowback from his racist rants at the hospital and is resting comfortably at home, and then fill us in on getting his machine up and running.
It'd be nice to hear that the company solved his problems and I really want to know how this shakes out.
Who's with me?
Wasn't racist.
But they replaced the part without hesitation. I am happy with their service.
4/23/2012 7:58:00 PM
Originally Posted By hondaciv:
Wasn't racist.
But they replaced the part without hesitation. I am happy with their service.
Originally Posted By kaos:
I'm waiting for hondaciv to tell us his wife survived the blowback from his racist rants at the hospital and is resting comfortably at home, and then fill us in on getting his machine up and running.
It'd be nice to hear that the company solved his problems and I really want to know how this shakes out.
Who's with me?
I'm waiting for hondaciv to tell us his wife survived the blowback from his racist rants at the hospital and is resting comfortably at home, and then fill us in on getting his machine up and running.
It'd be nice to hear that the company solved his problems and I really want to know how this shakes out.
Who's with me?
Wasn't racist.
But they replaced the part without hesitation. I am happy with their service.
sweat,
Have fun re-setting the arm
4/23/2012 8:27:32 PM
Are you running the motor clock wise or counter clock wise ?? If your hitting the bottom tamp stop at the back of the machine with the crank your going to far down . That would put a lot of stress on that end of the connecting rod. Clock wise rotation would only make it worse. The unit is running forward when going counter clock wise.
I see you put a tube for the primer's to go down. Better blow that hole out every now and then. The hole gets dirty and primers can get hung up in it. That will make the shell plate hang up then. I never did end up doing that mod. I know by how full the tray gets how much brass I have run.
I see you put a tube for the primer's to go down. Better blow that hole out every now and then. The hole gets dirty and primers can get hung up in it. That will make the shell plate hang up then. I never did end up doing that mod. I know by how full the tray gets how much brass I have run.
4/23/2012 8:41:08 PM
Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
Are you running the motor clock wise or counter clock wise ?? If your hitting the bottom tamp stop at the back of the machine with the crank your going to far down . That would put a lot of stress on that end of the connecting rod. Clock wise rotation would only make it worse. The unit is running forward when going counter clock wise.
I see you put a tube for the primer's to go down. Better blow that hole out every now and then. The hole gets dirty and primers can get hung up in it. That will make the shell plate hang up then. I never did end up doing that mod. I know by how full the tray gets how much brass I have run.
Are you running the motor clock wise or counter clock wise ?? If your hitting the bottom tamp stop at the back of the machine with the crank your going to far down . That would put a lot of stress on that end of the connecting rod. Clock wise rotation would only make it worse. The unit is running forward when going counter clock wise.
I see you put a tube for the primer's to go down. Better blow that hole out every now and then. The hole gets dirty and primers can get hung up in it. That will make the shell plate hang up then. I never did end up doing that mod. I know by how full the tray gets how much brass I have run.
Counter clock wise.
The part in red I don't think I follow.
Here is what I did to determine the end of the down stroke.
With the handle in and in the fully down position (to the bottom stop), and all the dies correctly set, I made a mark on the camshaft, and on the decap swivel. That way when I reconnected the autodrive, I could tell by those marks if I was hitting the bottom again, and adjust as needed.
4/23/2012 9:24:09 PM
Originally Posted By hondaciv:
Counter clock wise.
The part in red I don't think I follow.
Here is what I did to determine the end of the down stroke.
With the handle in and in the fully down position (to the bottom stop), and all the dies correctly set, I made a mark on the camshaft, and on the decap swivel. That way when I reconnected the autodrive, I could tell by those marks if I was hitting the bottom again, and adjust as needed.
Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
Are you running the motor clock wise or counter clock wise ?? If your hitting the bottom tamp stop at the back of the machine with the crank your going to far down . That would put a lot of stress on that end of the connecting rod. Clock wise rotation would only make it worse. The unit is running forward when going counter clock wise.
I see you put a tube for the primer's to go down. Better blow that hole out every now and then. The hole gets dirty and primers can get hung up in it. That will make the shell plate hang up then. I never did end up doing that mod. I know by how full the tray gets how much brass I have run.
Are you running the motor clock wise or counter clock wise ?? If your hitting the bottom tamp stop at the back of the machine with the crank your going to far down . That would put a lot of stress on that end of the connecting rod. Clock wise rotation would only make it worse. The unit is running forward when going counter clock wise.
I see you put a tube for the primer's to go down. Better blow that hole out every now and then. The hole gets dirty and primers can get hung up in it. That will make the shell plate hang up then. I never did end up doing that mod. I know by how full the tray gets how much brass I have run.
Counter clock wise.
The part in red I don't think I follow.
Here is what I did to determine the end of the down stroke.
With the handle in and in the fully down position (to the bottom stop), and all the dies correctly set, I made a mark on the camshaft, and on the decap swivel. That way when I reconnected the autodrive, I could tell by those marks if I was hitting the bottom again, and adjust as needed.
My drives are set to only go to the bottom of the stroke not to cam over. If your hitting the stop your camming over past the lowest point of the ram. Flip the pivot joint over at the end it busted on. Was it hitting the base of the mount ?
It could just be the pic , but the bend in the connector rod looks to not be in line with the ends. Meaning the hump should be straight up, not off to one side or the other.
4/23/2012 9:30:37 PM
Originally Posted By hondaciv:
Wasn't racist.
But they replaced the part without hesitation. I am happy with their service.
I'm sorry, I forgot the smiley.Originally Posted By kaos:
I'm waiting for hondaciv to tell us his wife survived the blowback from his racist rants at the hospital and is resting comfortably at home, and then fill us in on getting his machine up and running.
It'd be nice to hear that the company solved his problems and I really want to know how this shakes out.
Who's with me?
I'm waiting for hondaciv to tell us his wife survived the blowback from his racist rants at the hospital and is resting comfortably at home, and then fill us in on getting his machine up and running.
It'd be nice to hear that the company solved his problems and I really want to know how this shakes out.
Who's with me?
Wasn't racist.
But they replaced the part without hesitation. I am happy with their service.
It was my lame attempt at irony and humor.
I trust you'll forgive me?
