Archived Posts » 59,859,448
military crimp remover
6/4/2012 10:17:58 AM
noob here on military brass,Is there a budget version to remove the primer crimp for an ocassional 223 reloader, like a simple hand held tool
6/4/2012 10:27:50 AM
I prefer to swage mine with this tool. http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/447022/rcbs-primer-pocket-swager-combo
But there are cheaper tools for under $20.00 that cut the crimp out or you can use a pocket knife (not recomended).
But there are cheaper tools for under $20.00 that cut the crimp out or you can use a pocket knife (not recomended).
6/4/2012 10:28:42 AM
Originally Posted By mayorbilk:
noob here on military brass,Is there a budget version to remove the primer crimp for an ocassional 223 reloader, like a simple hand held tool
noob here on military brass,Is there a budget version to remove the primer crimp for an ocassional 223 reloader, like a simple hand held tool
You can buy a swager, or a reamer.
Lyman makes a hand held small primer reamer with handle.
6/4/2012 11:16:37 AM
The Hornady reamer is great, chuck it in a drill or adapt it to a small electric motor. I preferred it to the Dillon and RCBS, when set-up with its own motor. The Dillon and RCBS were both put on the EE and the Hornady kept, it was used tell I picked up a 1050
6/4/2012 4:33:34 PM
I have used a brass chamfer/debur tool in a drill press, could be used in a handheld drill clamped. Midway had an adapter to mount the tool. I have also used the RCBS tool on my Rockchucker.
6/4/2012 4:44:56 PM
Originally Posted By angus6:
The Hornady reamer is great, chuck it in a drill , adapt it to a small electric motor. I preferred it to the Dillon and RCBS when set-up with its own motor
The Hornady reamer with handle is about $10.The Hornady reamer is great, chuck it in a drill , adapt it to a small electric motor. I preferred it to the Dillon and RCBS when set-up with its own motor
Has a positive stop so you can't over ream.
Can be chucked in a drill if you want.
6/4/2012 5:50:00 PM
i use my hornaday chamfer and deburring tool to remove crimps takes very little effort...
probably not the greatest thing to preserve primer pocket tension...
probably not the greatest thing to preserve primer pocket tension...
6/4/2012 6:22:52 PM
I used to use the RCBS reamer, until I got into large quantities. Once I started sorting brass in decent amounts I got a Super Swage (Dillon). Worth every penny.
6/4/2012 7:05:05 PM
I have removed many primer crimps using just a small knife blade
6/4/2012 7:07:19 PM
The Hornady hand reamer works OK for a few cases but if you are going to process any brass in quantity then you need to get Dillon's Super Swage. I was a non-believer until I tried it and I found out how well it works. Check out my review, "Time to Eat Some Crow A Review of Dillon's Rapid Trim 1200B and Super Swage 600."
6/4/2012 8:18:05 PM
Nearly all of my brass is LC or Federal so all has primer crimps. I went out and got the RCBS chamfer and deburring tool. Works great for me.
6/4/2012 9:17:00 PM
I have an RCBS neck chamfer & de-burring tool that will remove most crimps with half a twist in .223 cases, no need for power tool. For the occasional case this is fine but because I process a lot of .223 & .308 mil brass, I bought their swage die.
6/4/2012 11:08:11 PM
Using a deburing tool for crimp removal is a bad idea for 2 reasons.
1) The angle on the debur tool removes too much brass before it removes the crimp.
2) No stop on the tool and over reaming can result.
I call this pic "Reamer Boy Hell". The cases on the right, crimp removed with a Hornady reamer with a positive stop.
Couple of the cases, a drill bit was used to butcher out the crimp. Lower left and a couple in the center.
For $10, get the proper tool.
Near drill has the Hornady reamer chucked up.
Or you can use the handle.
6/5/2012 3:45:36 AM
I just use this for removing military primers on my .223
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/274540/lee-universal-depriming-and-decapping-die-pin
Just use the Lee universal depriming and decapping die, and pop out military primers like butter! Works great trust me!
EDIT: Read the post wrong, what I do i just use the Lee chamfer deburring tool, and put it on my drill http://www.midwayusa.com/product/389104/lee-chamfer-and-deburring-tool
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/274540/lee-universal-depriming-and-decapping-die-pin
Just use the Lee universal depriming and decapping die, and pop out military primers like butter! Works great trust me!
EDIT: Read the post wrong, what I do i just use the Lee chamfer deburring tool, and put it on my drill http://www.midwayusa.com/product/389104/lee-chamfer-and-deburring-tool
6/5/2012 8:21:16 AM
Do not get they Lyman hand tool. Mine is worthless after reaming about 200 rounds of ppu brass. The cutting edges are all worn down. Junk.
6/5/2012 9:20:02 AM
I've always heard of having to remove the crimp so I always did it because all the veterans said it was the "golden rule" and had to be done. I started wondering though, so I went ahead and tried to prime some once fired military LC brass. Yes, at first there was some problems with the primers not seating but I noticed after watching very closely during the primer seating it was merely a matter of getting the primer lined up properly before fully seating (using a RCBS universal priming tool, by the way). To remedy this I found if you raise the primer to where it just contacts the pocket with little pressure and then give the brass a turn until you feel the primer "jump" up and center up in the pocket (you will feel the pressure on the priming tool lever release in your hand when it happens) you can then fully seat it with no problems. I have loaded 750 rounds of used military crimped brass using this method so far without removing the crimp and have only had 10-15 cases that absolutely had to have the crimp removed. It certainly sped up my loading by eliminating the removal process and it shoots great, never had a problem.
Now before anybody tries to throw me to the wolves keep in mind, this is what works for me. It is merely a suggestion and my own personal experience. But it led me to start to question other "Golden rules" of reloading.
Now before anybody tries to throw me to the wolves keep in mind, this is what works for me. It is merely a suggestion and my own personal experience. But it led me to start to question other "Golden rules" of reloading.
6/5/2012 1:14:06 PM
Originally Posted By zapzap:
Nearly all of my brass is LC or Federal so all has primer crimps. I went out and got the RCBS chamfer and deburring tool. Works great for me.
Nearly all of my brass is LC or Federal so all has primer crimps. I went out and got the RCBS chamfer and deburring tool. Works great for me.
I've been using that but it gets old after a couple hundred rounds and my hand starts to cramp. I think I'll get the Lyman hand tool because of the nice handle and a Lee or Hornady tool small enough to chuck in a drill. I like to sit on the couch and watch TV while sorting, checking length, chamfering/deburring, priming, etc. Any step that can be done in front of the TV or on the back porch with a beer and a friend really takes the monotony out.
Originally Posted By diehippy:
Do not get they Lyman hand tool. Mine is worthless after reaming about 200 rounds of ppu brass. The cutting edges are all worn down. Junk.
Do not get they Lyman hand tool. Mine is worthless after reaming about 200 rounds of ppu brass. The cutting edges are all worn down. Junk.
Thanks for the heads up. I'll skip the Lyman. That handle looked nice and comfy, though.
Originally Posted By simplerider:
I've always heard of having to remove the crimp so I always did it because all the veterans said it was the "golden rule" and had to be done. I started wondering though, so I went ahead and tried to prime some once fired military LC brass.
(snip)
I've always heard of having to remove the crimp so I always did it because all the veterans said it was the "golden rule" and had to be done. I started wondering though, so I went ahead and tried to prime some once fired military LC brass.
(snip)
I've tried and can't make it work. I'm using a Lee hand priming tool.
ETA: I've been keeping track now, and it seems that most of the LC cases are no problem but I have some PMC cases that had crimped primes that the crimp is very heavy and HAS to be removed.
6/5/2012 5:52:27 PM
Originally Posted By simplerider:
I've always heard of having to remove the crimp so I always did it because all the veterans said it was the "golden rule" and had to be done. I started wondering though, so I went ahead and tried to prime some once fired military LC brass. Yes, at first there was some problems with the primers not seating but I noticed after watching very closely during the primer seating it was merely a matter of getting the primer lined up properly before fully seating (using a RCBS universal priming tool, by the way). To remedy this I found if you raise the primer to where it just contacts the pocket with little pressure and then give the brass a turn until you feel the primer "jump" up and center up in the pocket (you will feel the pressure on the priming tool lever release in your hand when it happens) you can then fully seat it with no problems. I have loaded 750 rounds of used military crimped brass using this method so far without removing the crimp and have only had 10-15 cases that absolutely had to have the crimp removed. It certainly sped up my loading by eliminating the removal process and it shoots great, never had a problem.
Now before anybody tries to throw me to the wolves keep in mind, this is what works for me. It is merely a suggestion and my own personal experience. But it led me to start to question other "Golden rules" of reloading.
I've always heard of having to remove the crimp so I always did it because all the veterans said it was the "golden rule" and had to be done. I started wondering though, so I went ahead and tried to prime some once fired military LC brass. Yes, at first there was some problems with the primers not seating but I noticed after watching very closely during the primer seating it was merely a matter of getting the primer lined up properly before fully seating (using a RCBS universal priming tool, by the way). To remedy this I found if you raise the primer to where it just contacts the pocket with little pressure and then give the brass a turn until you feel the primer "jump" up and center up in the pocket (you will feel the pressure on the priming tool lever release in your hand when it happens) you can then fully seat it with no problems. I have loaded 750 rounds of used military crimped brass using this method so far without removing the crimp and have only had 10-15 cases that absolutely had to have the crimp removed. It certainly sped up my loading by eliminating the removal process and it shoots great, never had a problem.
Now before anybody tries to throw me to the wolves keep in mind, this is what works for me. It is merely a suggestion and my own personal experience. But it led me to start to question other "Golden rules" of reloading.
Not removing the crimp and seating primers anyway is a poor practice on crimped cases.
Please wear eye protection if you continue to do this.
If a primer goes off, you can thank me then.
As far as "golden rules", there are some myths out there in the reloading world.
Experience will teach you that in this case, follow the "golden rule" and removing the crimp on crimped cases is a good idea.
6/5/2012 6:22:47 PM
Originally Posted By diehippy:
Do not get they Lyman hand tool. Mine is worthless after reaming about 200 rounds of ppu brass. The cutting edges are all worn down. Junk.
Do not get they Lyman hand tool. Mine is worthless after reaming about 200 rounds of ppu brass. The cutting edges are all worn down. Junk.
Very true. it is tough to get started in heavy crimped brass and doesn't cut worth a flip. The hornady or RCBS are light years better
6/6/2012 9:32:36 AM
You seem to be under the impression that I am forcing the primer into the pocket and risking setting off a primer. This is not the case. The primers seat with no more resistance than a non crimped commercial case. The fact of the matter is when a primer is crimped during the loading process, it is only the very edge of the primer pocket that is pressed inward slightly, nothing more. The inside of the primer pocket is still the same size with or without a crimp. When you deprime the fired crimped case you are opening up the crimp as the primer comes out. All I am doing is lineing the new primer up with the pocket before it is fully seated. The only difference a crimp remover does is that it cuts a bevel on the pocket edge to ease priming which I found was unnecessary anyway.
Now keep in mind, I am using a hand priming tool. Cutting the crimp and beveling the edge may very well be absolutely necessary when using a multi stage press or a press mounted priming arm. Like I said, This is what works for me and is merely a suggestion and my own personnal experience.
Now keep in mind, I am using a hand priming tool. Cutting the crimp and beveling the edge may very well be absolutely necessary when using a multi stage press or a press mounted priming arm. Like I said, This is what works for me and is merely a suggestion and my own personnal experience.
6/6/2012 9:44:22 AM
I have been using the Dillon tool, works great.
6/6/2012 9:52:57 AM
Originally Posted By tyromeo55:
Very true. it is tough to get started in heavy crimped brass and doesn't cut worth a flip. The hornady or RCBS are light years better
Originally Posted By diehippy:
Do not get they Lyman hand tool. Mine is worthless after reaming about 200 rounds of ppu brass. The cutting edges are all worn down. Junk.
Do not get they Lyman hand tool. Mine is worthless after reaming about 200 rounds of ppu brass. The cutting edges are all worn down. Junk.
Very true. it is tough to get started in heavy crimped brass and doesn't cut worth a flip. The hornady or RCBS are light years better
+2
I reamed about 600 cases with the Lyman reamer, and the reamer is now junk! The Hornady reamer is SO much better, and I've reamed several thousand cases with it, and it's still just and sharp as it was the day I got it.
6/6/2012 9:57:36 AM
Originally Posted By simplerider:
You seem to be under the impression that I am forcing the primer into the pocket and risking setting off a primer. This is not the case. The primers seat with no more resistance than a non crimped commercial case. The fact of the matter is when a primer is crimped during the loading process, it is only the very edge of the primer pocket that is pressed inward slightly, nothing more. The inside of the primer pocket is still the same size with or without a crimp. When you deprime the fired crimped case you are opening up the crimp as the primer comes out. All I am doing is lineing the new primer up with the pocket before it is fully seated. The only difference a crimp remover does is that it cuts a bevel on the pocket edge to ease priming which I found was unnecessary anyway.
Now keep in mind, I am using a hand priming tool. Cutting the crimp and beveling the edge may very well be absolutely necessary when using a multi stage press or a press mounted priming arm. Like I said, This is what works for me and is merely a suggestion and my own personnal experience.
You seem to be under the impression that I am forcing the primer into the pocket and risking setting off a primer. This is not the case. The primers seat with no more resistance than a non crimped commercial case. The fact of the matter is when a primer is crimped during the loading process, it is only the very edge of the primer pocket that is pressed inward slightly, nothing more. The inside of the primer pocket is still the same size with or without a crimp. When you deprime the fired crimped case you are opening up the crimp as the primer comes out. All I am doing is lineing the new primer up with the pocket before it is fully seated. The only difference a crimp remover does is that it cuts a bevel on the pocket edge to ease priming which I found was unnecessary anyway.
Now keep in mind, I am using a hand priming tool. Cutting the crimp and beveling the edge may very well be absolutely necessary when using a multi stage press or a press mounted priming arm. Like I said, This is what works for me and is merely a suggestion and my own personnal experience.
I have a couple hundred LC11 cases that I didn't need to remove the crimp on. The reamer went in the primer pocket and didn't ream anything. The primers went in those cases just like any other commercial case.
I think what happened is exactly what you've experienced. In that removing the old primer opened up the primer pocket enough that they don't need to be reamed.
6/6/2012 11:29:16 AM
Perhaps There has been a recent change to how crimped cases are processed. Like Xtreme762, I too have been using fairly new production brass (LC '04-'10). Maybe with the older brass it was absolutely necessary to remove the crimp.
6/6/2012 11:45:41 AM
Originally Posted By simplerider:
You seem to be under the impression that I am forcing the primer into the pocket and risking setting off a primer. This is not the case. The primers seat with no more resistance than a non crimped commercial case. The fact of the matter is when a primer is crimped during the loading process, it is only the very edge of the primer pocket that is pressed inward slightly, nothing more. The inside of the primer pocket is still the same size with or without a crimp. When you deprime the fired crimped case you are opening up the crimp as the primer comes out. All I am doing is lineing the new primer up with the pocket before it is fully seated. The only difference a crimp remover does is that it cuts a bevel on the pocket edge to ease priming which I found was unnecessary anyway.
Now keep in mind, I am using a hand priming tool. Cutting the crimp and beveling the edge may very well be absolutely necessary when using a multi stage press or a press mounted priming arm. Like I said, This is what works for me and is merely a suggestion and my own personnal experience.
You seem to be under the impression that I am forcing the primer into the pocket and risking setting off a primer. This is not the case. The primers seat with no more resistance than a non crimped commercial case. The fact of the matter is when a primer is crimped during the loading process, it is only the very edge of the primer pocket that is pressed inward slightly, nothing more. The inside of the primer pocket is still the same size with or without a crimp. When you deprime the fired crimped case you are opening up the crimp as the primer comes out. All I am doing is lineing the new primer up with the pocket before it is fully seated. The only difference a crimp remover does is that it cuts a bevel on the pocket edge to ease priming which I found was unnecessary anyway.
Now keep in mind, I am using a hand priming tool. Cutting the crimp and beveling the edge may very well be absolutely necessary when using a multi stage press or a press mounted priming arm. Like I said, This is what works for me and is merely a suggestion and my own personnal experience.
Still a poor practice, hope you are wearing eye protection.
You can do as you like.
My concern is the new and "want to learn the correct methods and be safe reloaders" who read about these short cuts and be misled and possibly hurt.
We teach and help a lot of new reloaders here.
Some we can help, others I have to give up on.
6/6/2012 12:13:04 PM
And some are afraid of change.
