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Sealing a safe door / UPDATE $5.27
2/13/2012 1:03:34 AM
Does anyone use a strip seal (door type seal) to cushion and seal the door of a safe? I am looking to seal it so that there is less air exchange and to keep the contained air dryer. Would it be unwise?
UPDATE:
I finally found some weather seal at Lowes. It is "rubber" MD Premium Ultra Weatherseal #WS 108 68668 1/4" thick x 1/2" wide and 20 feet long. UL listed for smoke and draft control and remains flexible from -110f to 400f. Self adhesive and black in color.
It has a teardrop design and seems to seal well.
UPDATE:
I finally found some weather seal at Lowes. It is "rubber" MD Premium Ultra Weatherseal #WS 108 68668 1/4" thick x 1/2" wide and 20 feet long. UL listed for smoke and draft control and remains flexible from -110f to 400f. Self adhesive and black in color.
It has a teardrop design and seems to seal well.
2/13/2012 1:07:27 AM
Like the idea for my liberty....Tag for interest
2/13/2012 2:38:28 AM
Originally Posted By Firebird69:
Does anyone use a strip seal (door type seal) to cushion and seal the door of a safe? I am looking to seal it so that there is less air exchange and to keep the contained air dryer. Would it be unwise?
Does anyone use a strip seal (door type seal) to cushion and seal the door of a safe? I am looking to seal it so that there is less air exchange and to keep the contained air dryer. Would it be unwise?
I have been using that blue painters masking tape for two years - works awesome. My dessicant packs stay chraged for 5 times as long at least. Use the 3- inch tape. Still opens and reseals when you close it.
2/13/2012 5:43:55 AM
This depends on your safe, I use a high heat weather strip, and sometimes if the tolerances are OK, a fireproof gasket material made by 3M... But be careful, I had a service call once, where a guy put a seal in his Browning safe and then it wouldnt open.. I went thinking it was a faulty LM and was going to have to crack it, but when I fed the combo it tried to release the bolts but couldnt, I asked if something could have fell on the door, then he told me about the weatherstripping.. I ended up putting a ratchet strap around the safe with a piece of wood on the door to push in the weather strip that popped the bolts in and opened rite up... But still a pain in the ass, and it cost him $329....
2/13/2012 10:59:43 AM
Originally Posted By _DR:
I have been using that blue painters masking tape for two years - works awesome. My dessicant packs stay chraged for 5 times as long at least. Use the 3- inch tape. Still opens and reseals when you close it.
Originally Posted By Firebird69:
Does anyone use a strip seal (door type seal) to cushion and seal the door of a safe? I am looking to seal it so that there is less air exchange and to keep the contained air dryer. Would it be unwise?
Does anyone use a strip seal (door type seal) to cushion and seal the door of a safe? I am looking to seal it so that there is less air exchange and to keep the contained air dryer. Would it be unwise?
I have been using that blue painters masking tape for two years - works awesome. My dessicant packs stay chraged for 5 times as long at least. Use the 3- inch tape. Still opens and reseals when you close it.
Not exactly what I envisioned.
I am looking to use weather seal.
2/15/2012 8:13:43 PM
No one?
Alrighty then. Some googling turned up little info but one did say to use rubber weather seal. It will not completely seal off the safe but will cut down on air transfer. It should make humidity control much more effective.
I am going to check HD for low profile seals. If I find something that works I'll post it.
Alrighty then. Some googling turned up little info but one did say to use rubber weather seal. It will not completely seal off the safe but will cut down on air transfer. It should make humidity control much more effective.
I am going to check HD for low profile seals. If I find something that works I'll post it.
2/15/2012 10:38:34 PM
I used a light weight weather stripping on a safe in a humid climate. Worked just fine and has been on for several years. It does reduce the air infiltration and my desicant lasts for months between recharges. I agree that you do not want too thick or stiff a seal. If I leave for a longer period of time I have put painter's take on the the door seam, but don't think it added much over the weather strip.
2/19/2012 12:33:50 PM
Originally Posted By Firebird69:
No one?
Alrighty then. Some googling turned up little info but one did say to use rubber weather seal. It will not completely seal off the safe but will cut down on air transfer. It should make humidity control much more effective.
I am going to check HD for low profile seals. If I find something that works I'll post it.
No one?
Alrighty then. Some googling turned up little info but one did say to use rubber weather seal. It will not completely seal off the safe but will cut down on air transfer. It should make humidity control much more effective.
I am going to check HD for low profile seals. If I find something that works I'll post it.
In for the outcome.
2/19/2012 4:21:11 PM
Buy this because it is what Sturdy safe uses
2/19/2012 6:45:29 PM
2/19/2012 8:58:37 PM
I think the OP had something more like this in mind.
2/19/2012 9:01:03 PM
i did exactly that for my Canon safe. i used that self adhesive foam door seal around the perimeter of the lip of the safe opening.
2/19/2012 9:03:51 PM
Originally Posted By Stazi:
i did exactly that for my Canon safe. i used that self adhesive foam door seal around the perimeter of the lip of the safe opening.
i did exactly that for my Canon safe. i used that self adhesive foam door seal around the perimeter of the lip of the safe opening.
Now we're cooking !
What was the height of the seal that you used?
2/19/2012 9:39:16 PM
I wouldn't put anything extra on your door. If your safe is like mine it has an expanding seal that's already there to seal the door during a fire and the seal you put there may cause an issue the the existing seal working properly. Now that being said you r safe is not air tight anyway and I don't really think you want it that tight, some exchange of air is proper. To prevent condensation and rust you just need to keep the air in the safe warmer than the outside air. Just put a dry rod in your safe and be done with it. No more worrying about silica gel and drying them out in the oven.
2/24/2012 9:30:13 AM
Originally Posted By bmohr1:
I wouldn't put anything extra on your door. If your safe is like mine it has an expanding seal that's already there to seal the door during a fire and the seal you put there may cause an issue the the existing seal working properly. Now that being said you r safe is not air tight anyway and I don't really think you want it that tight, some exchange of air is proper. To prevent condensation and rust you just need to keep the air in the safe warmer than the outside air. Just put a dry rod in your safe and be done with it. No more worrying about silica gel and drying them out in the oven.
I wouldn't put anything extra on your door. If your safe is like mine it has an expanding seal that's already there to seal the door during a fire and the seal you put there may cause an issue the the existing seal working properly. Now that being said you r safe is not air tight anyway and I don't really think you want it that tight, some exchange of air is proper. To prevent condensation and rust you just need to keep the air in the safe warmer than the outside air. Just put a dry rod in your safe and be done with it. No more worrying about silica gel and drying them out in the oven.
Some safes, I'm assuming the non-fire rated ones, don't have any seal at all.
Or, you could be like the old guy that was the previous owner of my current safe...and put the weather strip on the OUTSIDE of the door. (insert facepalm)
3/2/2012 10:06:33 PM
plop
