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Broken screws in Warne rings.
12/18/2011 11:38:43 AM
My son's scoped .22 slipped off his shoulder while he was hunting a while ago. Thankfully, the rifle wasn't loaded yet, so the safety issue had no consequences other than 2 broken screws holding the top half of the rings to the saddle portion.
I don't have a milling machine, just a Delta 14" drill press with a table vise.
The (8-40 ?, not sure yet) screws are hard, and are broken off flush with the steel rings.
I'm thinking I'm going to need a carbide center drill to cut them enough to get an EZ-Out started.
Think I should try to spot-anneal them first?
Anybody have any other tips or advice?
I really would like to save the rings; it shouldn't be too hard to do, eh?
I don't have a milling machine, just a Delta 14" drill press with a table vise.
The (8-40 ?, not sure yet) screws are hard, and are broken off flush with the steel rings.
I'm thinking I'm going to need a carbide center drill to cut them enough to get an EZ-Out started.
Think I should try to spot-anneal them first?
Anybody have any other tips or advice?
I really would like to save the rings; it shouldn't be too hard to do, eh?
12/18/2011 12:28:54 PM
Don't waste time with an ez out on a tiny screw.
Get a real sharp center punch, put it off center on the screw, point it in the lefty loosey direction, and tap it with a light hammer. If the screw has loctite, add a little heat to soften the sealer. The screw should turn out with little drama.
Don't get the punch so close to the threads that you stake the screw in!
Another option that might work is to cut a screwdriver slot into the end of the screw with a separating wheel in a Dremel (
) tool. Even if the screw is flush, you can cut the start of a slot by using a wheel that has been worn down to small diameter. The smaller the wheel, the shorter the radius of curvature and the deeper the slot is cut before touching the ring. It's not the end of the world to add a little cut on each side of the hole in the rings, either.
Get a real sharp center punch, put it off center on the screw, point it in the lefty loosey direction, and tap it with a light hammer. If the screw has loctite, add a little heat to soften the sealer. The screw should turn out with little drama.
Don't get the punch so close to the threads that you stake the screw in!
Another option that might work is to cut a screwdriver slot into the end of the screw with a separating wheel in a Dremel (
) tool. Even if the screw is flush, you can cut the start of a slot by using a wheel that has been worn down to small diameter. The smaller the wheel, the shorter the radius of curvature and the deeper the slot is cut before touching the ring. It's not the end of the world to add a little cut on each side of the hole in the rings, either.
12/19/2011 8:07:18 PM
Thanks for the advice AeroE!
Well, the center-punch thing just ain't moving them; there simply isn't enough diameter to these tiny screws to get any amount of torque on them by tapping on them at an angle halfway between the center and the edge...
So I went to Farm and Fleet to pick up some slitting discs for the Dremel, but the thinnest ones they carry are almost as thick as the minor thread diameter of the screws!
Sad part is, I know I have some thin discs around the house somewhere, but I'll be hanged if I can find them.
SIGH...
I think I'll just drop them off at a local machine shop and see what they can do. Maybe they have an EDM machine or something...and they'll probably want to keep the rings plus 20 bucks for the labor....
Well, the center-punch thing just ain't moving them; there simply isn't enough diameter to these tiny screws to get any amount of torque on them by tapping on them at an angle halfway between the center and the edge...
So I went to Farm and Fleet to pick up some slitting discs for the Dremel, but the thinnest ones they carry are almost as thick as the minor thread diameter of the screws!
Sad part is, I know I have some thin discs around the house somewhere, but I'll be hanged if I can find them.
SIGH...
I think I'll just drop them off at a local machine shop and see what they can do. Maybe they have an EDM machine or something...and they'll probably want to keep the rings plus 20 bucks for the labor....
12/19/2011 10:39:00 PM
If you know a really good Tig welder he can remove them by welding a small washer to the remaining bolt and take them out with a pair of pliars.
12/20/2011 5:44:55 PM
Originally Posted By Heatnbeat:
If you know a really good Tig welder he can remove them by welding a small washer to the remaining bolt and take them out with a pair of pliars.
If you know a really good Tig welder he can remove them by welding a small washer to the remaining bolt and take them out with a pair of pliars.
I thought of doing that myself, only with oxy/acetylene and a small ESAB welding tip. But I'm just not used to working THAT small! I just know I'd melt the edges of the rings in the process.
We have literally dozens of very good MIG and stick welders in our shop, but no TIG setups anymore.
I'll ask around though. Thanks for the suggestion!
12/21/2011 9:25:29 PM
Grab a small rod, >1/8", put it in your stinger, and turn your stick welder down low. Ground the ring, and bury the rod into the screw, it should fuse. Once it does, break the circuit. Use pliers to remove the screw/rod assembly.
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
12/21/2011 10:25:29 PM
I've been know to spend way too much time, effort, and expense to fix a simple problem....so help another avoid the same trap I would refer you to this
