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How to straighten an ejector rod...?
12/29/2011 7:52:33 PM
My S&W 1917 had locked up on me after giving me no problems at all- the cylinder was stuck closed; seems the ejector rod release was bound up somehow.
I left it with a gunsmith friend, thinking disassembly the proper way would ensue. He beat the crane open with a hammer against the ejector rod.
I coulda done that myself.
Anyway...it sat at the shop untouched after that for six months. I got it back and ordered a replacement spring for the ejector rod keeper, and upon reassembling it, I discovered the ejector rod is bent.
I asked about replacements in another thread, and got a lead on a place.
However, I was wondering if there is any method for 'truing' the original rod? I would rather keep all original parts on the gun if I can.
It is slightly bent out of shape, and not noticeable by looking at it- only when you try to assemble it and the ejector hangs up is it realized; also, rolling it along a flat surface shows it to 'wobble'
Any ideas?
I left it with a gunsmith friend, thinking disassembly the proper way would ensue. He beat the crane open with a hammer against the ejector rod.
I coulda done that myself.
Anyway...it sat at the shop untouched after that for six months. I got it back and ordered a replacement spring for the ejector rod keeper, and upon reassembling it, I discovered the ejector rod is bent.
I asked about replacements in another thread, and got a lead on a place.
However, I was wondering if there is any method for 'truing' the original rod? I would rather keep all original parts on the gun if I can.
It is slightly bent out of shape, and not noticeable by looking at it- only when you try to assemble it and the ejector hangs up is it realized; also, rolling it along a flat surface shows it to 'wobble'
Any ideas?
12/29/2011 8:00:50 PM
Find a dead flat and smooth piece steel that can be used as an anvil, then beat the part into shape with a ball peen hammer. Keep the part rolling and start at one end to work out the bend. Don't pound the pin, use taps, lots of them. If the pin is heat treated, this might not work because the pin won't be bent far enough in the opposite direction to get it to its yield stress.
It's already bent and there's almost nothing you can do to make it worse this way.
It's already bent and there's almost nothing you can do to make it worse this way.
12/30/2011 11:56:06 AM
Originally Posted By AeroE:
Find a dead flat and smooth piece steel that can be used as an anvil, then beat the part into shape with a ball peen hammer. Keep the part rolling and start at one end to work out the bend. Don't pound the pin, use taps, lots of them. If the pin is heat treated, this might not work because the pin won't be bent far enough in the opposite direction to get it to its yield stress.
It's already bent and there's almost nothing you can do to make it worse this way.
Find a dead flat and smooth piece steel that can be used as an anvil, then beat the part into shape with a ball peen hammer. Keep the part rolling and start at one end to work out the bend. Don't pound the pin, use taps, lots of them. If the pin is heat treated, this might not work because the pin won't be bent far enough in the opposite direction to get it to its yield stress.
It's already bent and there's almost nothing you can do to make it worse this way.
Kind of a savage way to do it.
Instead, clamp up your bearing roller in the lathe tool holder (the one you use to true a thin piece to the jaws), and with one side in the jaws, and the other supported by a live end, use the roller to apply pressure across the surface as it being spun to straight it out. The tension of the roller will heat up the metal just enough that it will hold true when it all said and done.
Also.might want to check the alignment of the crane/cylinder to the barrel after all that beating.
12/30/2011 12:04:00 PM
If he had a lathe, I'm betting the question wouldn't be posted.
There's nothing savage about straightening with a hammer unless it's used to bash the part. The anvil has to be dead smooth and flat, the face of the hammer should be polished, and the work done slowly and carefully with constant attention to the progress of the work.
There's nothing savage about straightening with a hammer unless it's used to bash the part. The anvil has to be dead smooth and flat, the face of the hammer should be polished, and the work done slowly and carefully with constant attention to the progress of the work.
12/30/2011 12:45:42 PM
Originally Posted By AeroE:
If he had a lathe, I'm betting the question wouldn't be posted.
There's nothing savage about straightening with a hammer unless it's used to bash the part. The anvil has to be dead smooth and flat, the face of the hammer should be polished, and the work done slowly and carefully with constant attention to the progress of the work.
If he had a lathe, I'm betting the question wouldn't be posted.
There's nothing savage about straightening with a hammer unless it's used to bash the part. The anvil has to be dead smooth and flat, the face of the hammer should be polished, and the work done slowly and carefully with constant attention to the progress of the work.
nope- I wish I had a lathe! I'm going to work on it with your method today...I'll let you know.
