AR15.Com Archives
 Bolt closing before clip is seated. ??
pilotman  [Team Member]
4/17/2011 2:27:59 PM EST
Have this problem on new M1. From the reading I've done and looking at my issue it seems that the "nub" where the bullet guide contacts the accelerator is too tall. I've filed it down to where there is barely a "nub" left and while it's gotten better it still wants to release the bolt when the clip is almost locked.

Anywhere else I should look for an issue or do I need to keep filing?
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ma96782  [Member]
4/17/2011 7:46:47 PM EST
I wouldn't file on parts (well, maybe a little bit SOMETIMES. But.........).

Anyway, look here......

http://m1-garand-rifle.com/garand-troubleshooting.php

Aloha, Mark




shack357  [Team Member]
4/17/2011 7:48:49 PM EST
Have you tried other clips? I have two clips that don't seat right and cause my rifle to do funny things sometimes. Also, by "new" M1 do you mean new to you or is it one of the Springfield Armory reissues(newly made rifles, not GI)? I've heard of a few unusual problems with the reissue, and SA was pretty good about fixing when contacted.
M1G  [Team Member]
4/18/2011 3:05:49 AM EST
First
Replace Bullet Guide
Repalce clip latch Spring
Replace Op Rod Spring (From Orion 7)
You should have replaced these springs instead of filing on anything
pilotman  [Team Member]
4/18/2011 1:23:25 PM EST
Here's what I read that lead me to file on it

The reverse of the causes of the bolt failing to release when the clip is inserted, listed in paragraph 45 above, may cause this condition. In addition it may be due to a defective clip latch or clip latch spring. If the radii on the hooks of the operating rod or operating rod catch are excessive and causing the bolt to go forward before the clip is latched, replace the parts. A bullet guide that is high at the accelerator bearing point should be removed from the rifle and stoned at this point until the accelerator will not cam up the operating rod catch sufficiently to release the operating rod until the clip is fully inserted and latched. Hand function the clip latch to see that it is not binding in the receiver and that the clip latch spring has sufficient tension to rotate the clip latch on its hinge pin. If binding is due to deformation or improper dimensions, replace the clip latch. Replace a weak or broken spring.

http://www.highspeedlane.net/m1garand/tm91275/page_14.htm

But now i'm even more confused. The first link (and a few things i've read) listed seems to indicate that the clip should be locked in place, and the bolt shouldn't move until you retract it and let it ride forward. I've seen /shot a few garands like this.
However... Some other materials that I have read seem to indicate that the bolt should release just before the clip bottoms out, then the op rod is pushed forward manually. I've seen/shot a few garands like this as well.

Which one is correct?

As for my rifle -

It's a new to me gun. lowering the bearing point on the bullet guide made the release point sharper and closer to the bottom, which is better than it was. Unless i can figure out which one is correct, i'm probably going to leave it be unless it presents a problem down the road.
runawayabc123  [Member]
4/18/2011 5:10:49 PM EST
I think what he is trying to saw is even when you are REALLY sure something will fix a problem, you should try all of the options that are NOT unreverable. Meaning, new springs fix:yes (good/done) no (now I have an extra set of new springs). Filed nub down fix:yes (good/done) no (oh crap, what do I do now?)

I hope you end up finding an inexpensive solution to fix your fix.

But, for the boat I was in, a "new" from CMP was always cheap whatever the problem.
Southern_Raider  [Member]
4/18/2011 5:52:20 PM EST
Some other materials that I have read seem to indicate that the bolt should release just before the clip bottoms out, then the op rod is pushed forward manually.

This is how John Garand designed it. Some Garands need the forward assist ("Garand Bump") to close, some don't. The fact that there are ordnance gauges to measure the release timing bolster this claim.
Jimi  [Member]
4/19/2011 8:21:27 AM EST
Change the bullet guide.Thats where your problem is.It is just alittle out of time.If that doesen't help change clip latch and spring.
raeed4  [Member]
4/20/2011 3:02:33 AM EST
Do you know of anyone with a timing block in your area. If you are close to Mt. Pleasant SC I could check it for you. The last one I checked for a guy the bullet guide was the problem. I got him one from Numrich, the last version was stamped with a notch on the left side. It was an instant fix.
There is a pic below (hope it opens, it's my first try here to post a pic) that shows the original G.I. tools for checking the Garand. The timing block is about 11 o'clock.

pilotman  [Team Member]
4/21/2011 4:30:40 PM EST
Originally Posted By raeed4:
Do you know of anyone with a timing block in your area. If you are close to Mt. Pleasant SC I could check it for you. The last one I checked for a guy the bullet guide was the problem. I got him one from Numrich, the last version was stamped with a notch on the left side. It was an instant fix.
There is a pic below (hope it opens, it's my first try here to post a pic) that shows the original G.I. tools for checking the Garand. The timing block is about 11 o'clock.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr30/jrmcrmo9/Parts/testtools1.jpg


Thanks for the offer! I'm a ways away though. However there is a guy that (hopefully still) sets up at the gun shows around here and specializes in M1s. I'm sure he has the tools in the pic, I'll have him check and replace if necessary.
aztrooper  [Team Member]
4/21/2011 9:39:42 PM EST
Yeah, your timing issue may not be related to that part at all. The posts above as far as what parts to check first are a great start. Reason I keep extra Garand parts handy. I you find a "Garnad Guy" in your area, use that resource. I have one, and I had a timing issue that we resolved, but it took a bit of trial and error.
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