User Panel
Posted: 1/8/2021 1:00:22 PM EDT
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It's supposed to be drilled and pinned.
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Tennessee Squire
Team Ranstad NRA Life Member (no longer financially supporting) |
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View Quote If the piston is a 922r part they didn't come drilled for the pin, so it's possible whoever assembled that one didn't take the time to do it right. |
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Tennessee Squire
Team Ranstad NRA Life Member (no longer financially supporting) |
Somebody skipped a step.
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I suppose it is possible to convey more ignorance with less words, but I doubt I will ever see it in my lifetime.--Bohr Adam
If LAV promotes using the slide lock/release to chamber a round after a mag change, then he should be ignored.-MP0117 |
anybody have a pic of what it is suppose to look like? Is this something I can fix myself? Or, thread lock the hell out of it?
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The job is to screw in the gas piston, then back it off about 1/2 turn. Don't screw it in tight.
Then precision drill the hole through the piston. The hole in the piston should be slightly larger then the hole in the bolt carrier. Use a Dremel carbide ball cutter or a countersink, to grind or cut a shallow countersink on each side of the hole in the carrier. Insert a common nail or any other correct size mild steel that's a snug fit in the holes in the bolt carrier, but slightly smaller then the hole in the piston. Use a ball peen hammer to rivet both sides of the pin, making sure the riveted ends flow into the countersunk holes in the carrier. Grind/file the excess rivet off on both sides flush with the sides of the carrier. Apply paint to the carrier to finish the job. The countersunk hole on each side gives the rivet room to flow down below the surface of the carrier. That way when the excess is ground off enough rivet remains to secure the pin. Once riveted the gas pistol should have slight movement or wobble to allow the piston to self-align with the gas block. The only difficulty is making certain the drill doesn't drift and go through the piston crooked. If you're not sure on this, most any machine shop can do it for you easily. |
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Originally Posted By dfariswheel: The job is to screw in the gas piston, then back it off about 1/2 turn. Don't screw it in tight. Then precision drill the hole through the piston. The hole in the piston should be slightly larger then the hole in the bolt carrier. Use a Dremel carbide ball cutter or a countersink, to grind or cut a shallow countersink on each side of the hole in the follower. Insert a common nail or any other correct size mild steel that's a snug fit in the holes in the bolt carrier, but slightly smaller then the hole in the piston. Use a ball peen hammer to rivet both sides of the pin, making sure the riveted ends flow into the countersunk holes in the carrier. Grind/file the excess rivet off on both sides flush with the sides of the carrier. Apply paint to the carrier to finish the job. The countersunk hole on each side gives the rivet room to flow down below the surface of the carrier. That way when the excess is ground off enough rivet remains to secure the pin. Once riveted the gas pistol should have slight movement or wobble to allow the piston to self-align with the gas block. The only difficulty is making certain the drill doesn't drift and go through the piston crooked. If you're not sure on this, most any machine shop can do it for you easily. View Quote Thank you for taking the time to explain all of that. |
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For the curious, who built this AK?
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The common statements for belief is there should be wiggle and movement. But Pin it and have fun
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I was going to say - first time I have ever seen that in any AK type. I hope you got this sorted.
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I suppose it is possible to convey more ignorance with less words, but I doubt I will ever see it in my lifetime.--Bohr Adam
If LAV promotes using the slide lock/release to chamber a round after a mag change, then he should be ignored.-MP0117 |
I have seen many WASR rifles with this same condition. Piston is usually torqued very tight, with zero wiggle.
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View Quote |
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Rikki-tiki Tavi there’s snakes in the grass so we’d better go hunting
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You can roll pin it. The pin is only preventing it from unscrewing. KNS pistons ship with roll pins and they work fine.
It does appear you're missing the hole drilled through the silver piston part. |
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Now that I think about it, I don't believe my wasr piston is pinned either. I've shot it that way for years. Guess I found my next little project.
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Originally Posted By MallNinja531: Now that I think about it, I don't believe my wasr piston is pinned either. I've shot it that way for years. Guess I found my next little project. View Quote On a bunch of factory guns, they pin them and then blend them so well you can't even see the pin. When drilling out the pins to swap to a KNS piston, you can really have to look hard for them. |
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Originally Posted By giantpune: On a bunch of factory guns, they pin them and then blend them so well you can't even see the pin. When drilling out the pins to swap to a KNS piston, you can really have to look hard for them. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By giantpune: Originally Posted By MallNinja531: Now that I think about it, I don't believe my wasr piston is pinned either. I've shot it that way for years. Guess I found my next little project. On a bunch of factory guns, they pin them and then blend them so well you can't even see the pin. When drilling out the pins to swap to a KNS piston, you can really have to look hard for them. This is the way. |
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It is suppose to have a bit of play in it, but still needs to be pinned to keep it from backing out.
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In the real world off-campus, good marksmanship trumps good will.
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My WASRs I had back in 2004 had the piston welded into the carrier by Century Arms monkeys for 922r compliance.
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Your body can never go where your mind has never been.
ARFCOM Callsign: COLD WAR |
May I suggest if you don't feel like drilling your piston you can go to leesmags and he has surplus pistons w/ a new rivet for as little as $5 plus shipping. It's always nice to have a spare.
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