I'll do a range report on mine as soon as I get time to shoot as well.

Been my experience over many years that almost all firearms, with the exception of CHF chrome-lined barrels and octagonals, require a break-in period before you get the best accuracy from them, some as much as a couple hundred rounds or more, back in the day guys I used to know who were into hyper-accuracy would lap a new barrel before they ever went to the range, some even fire-lapped them. Has to do with small jagged edges and such after the rifling was cut and how well they may have lapped them at the factory.

I just shoot mine until they smooth out. My PTR took 200 rounds. So give it some time and rounds. Clean it real good and then maybe run a patch through with a tiny bit of lapping compound and clean again. Might help.

Good advice, I will keep that in mind on mine.

I don't know if PSA is using broach or button rifling for the nitride barrels, I would assume button because it's cheaper and faster and *technically* doesn't require lapping, just stress relieving, but even button rifled barrels can usually benefit from some smoothing.

Seen a bunch of guns sold immediately after purchase over the years because somebody took them out, fired one box of ammo, and had poor results, that just needed some time.

With rifles it was usually accuracy, with pistols, especially small caliber blowback pistols, it was because of FTE's, FTF's etc. My little .380 I carry most days is a case in point, bought it dirt cheap, and all it needed was a shine on the feed ramp and a little throating and now it's flawless even with wide mouth HP's.

Point is don't be too quick to write off any new firearm based on first range trip.

Seems like the krinks are staying in stock consistently now. I hope they add a krink barreled action or builders kit SKU soon.

That’s what I am waiting for.

Took mine out to the range last week for a quick function test before I submitted my form 1. I fired 1 box each (20 rds) of PMC Bronze, Prvi M193 and IMI M193 with zero issues.

Got my stamp back this morning and installed a Polish triangle stock and swapped out the grip for a black Tula grip I had in my parts box. The stock pin tapped right out with minimal effort, took all of 10 minutes to remove the factory 1913 brace adapter and install the stock. The Polish stock also came with a pin so just out of curiosity I measured it and compared it to the pin that came from the factory. The Polish pin was ~0.07mm thinner so I used the that one instead of the factory one. I've heard the JMAC pins PSA uses are slightly oversized which can make them tight in some stocks and that appears to be true. Hopefully this info is helpful to somebody. If you want an absolutely painless stock install a Polish stock and 4.5mm pin fits perfectly.

I think PSA plans on making these in .300 Blackout as well

Yes, they've stated .300BO, 5.45x39, and 7.62x39 eventually.

I am thinking of either the .300 or 5.56.............I will have one of those

Looks great.  Yeah my pin was really tight. Went back in pretty easy

I will probably grab one of these as well.

Worth 2 nights of work to fund it

Looks good!

I used the PSA pin on mine, with a PSA stock. It was tight, but a couple light taps with a hammer were all it took.

Has anyone tried steel case in theirs?  Some of the testers on YT had issues with steel case. I wonder if anyone's had any success with it.

With a straight-walled steelcase, you gotta oil that bore and and chamber lightly before you go to the range, or they will stick on a new barrel, even a chrome-lined barrel. The toobies probably took it out there dry.

Tapered case like x39 it's not an issue usually.

Do you think it makes a difference if you're using the nice Barnaul military style ammo with the lacquered cases? Maybe that and the rust issue is why mil steel cases are lacquered.

I've shot literally cases of 223 steel case in ARs and in my Saiga (I love 75gr Tula). I've never oiled the chamber. I've never had any problems.

Looks like PSA removed the Voodoo wood option and yep they are all in stock right now.

Have 680 rounds of the Sargent major , Tula zinc , through mine with zero issues.

Glad it's never happened to you, don't mean it doesn't happen.

Last time it happened to me, it was a super nice FN CHF-chrome-lined barrel too, brand new had just assembled it (AR), I was taking like 6 rifles out that day and for some reason forgot to run a patch through that one rifle. Very first round, steel case, can't remember the make, stuck nice and tight in there.

Got it pulled out, tried a brass round and they worked fine. Took it home, cleaned it good and has worked fine since.

Brand new, dry as a bone and dry steel case they can stick on the first few rounds, seen it more than once. After you run enough rounds through it, it stops being an issue as the chamber gets burnished enough that rounds slide properly.

Doesn't happen in all cases, but I still always run a patch with oil through a new barrel now, especially if it's non-chrome like the barrels in these PSA Krinks.

Couldn't tell ya, i've owned an AK in .223 but never did fire it before I sold it. Pretty sure the couple times I had problems it was Tula, it was a gray case I remember that, and I had a problem with a .308 Tula round in my G3 that flew apart as it was chambering, guess the bullet wasn't crimped properly and came flying out, frickin powder went everywhere.

I'm just a sample size of one like the next guy, dmk said his rifles run good on Tula.

Personally I like GT, and Brown Bear especially in .308, great stuff.

I’ve always had to “bore bathe” before extended periods of shooting steel case in any AR I’ve owned.

That's interesting. I never even knew oiling the chamber was a thing until the PSA Krink steel case discussions.

I've always actually tried made sure my chambers bores are dry before going to the range (unless I grab a gun unprepared at the last minute). Except for a CCW, I usually give them fresh lube the night before when I pack all my ammo and gear. Then I dry patch the bore and chamber.

Maybe I've been doing it wrong all these years without knowing it.

I always keep CLP in the range bag though. I'll try some lube in the chamber if I ever see an issue.

The only steel case I've ever shot was 223 and 7.62x39.  I originally got the 223 for my Saiga, but then found it worked OK in my ARs too.

One thing that might help me is I never get my guns super hot.  I'll shoot two or thee mags, then let it cool down. I usually switch to a different gun, and often have 4 or 5 guns with me so there's plenty of cool down time for each gun. Guns are tools, but I like to take good care of my tools, and am admittedly a little OCD.

There you go, you DO oil them, I do the basically the same thing, i'm OCD about cleaning, thorough breakdown cleaning after every range trip, followed by oiling and greasing where appropriate. Don't want excessive oil in the barrel and chamber when shooting, so a quick dry patch down the bore before taking to range.

So here's the thing, unless you de-grease it, even after a dry patch there is still going to be a very light coat of oil on everything.

Think about it like this, cosmoline on old AK parts, you can rub that stuff all day long with a dry cloth, but unless you use some sort of de-greaser, it's still gonna be slick and a tiny bit greasy still.

ETA: This is one of those times where communication on the internet is sometimes difficult. We do basically the same thing just in different order.

To be clear I wasn't advocating soaking a rifle in oil and going to the range like that, I was specifically talking about a brand new never-cleaned never-oiled barrel and taking it to the range first time like that. My rifles are always well-cleaned and lubed but not dripping with oil. And on a new rifle I usually do clean it and lube it before taking to the range the first time. The one time I didn't do that, I immediately got a stuck case, and in an expensive barrel too that was chrome-lined, so even a chrome-lined barrel is not immune to this issue.

These PSA Nitride barrels not being coated, completely dry, and steel case ammo IMO are a good way to have a potential problem, have not watched the youtube videos, but when somebody mentioned them having a problem with steel cased ammo, that was the first thought that sprung to mind is that they didn't clean or lube it before shooting it. I may be wrong but that seemed like most-likely case scenario.

Anyone replaced their furniture with polymer furniture? I'm thinking about getting one and putting the Arsenal Krink furniture on it

I am curious about fitment of other types of furniture. Update us here if you do.

You may be right. I think we are on the same page.

+1

Would love to have other options even though I think the PSA wood is pretty nice imo

I will.............looking at the K-Var black AKSU furniture for mine when i get it, like this:

AKSU furniture

As well as a black grip to match it:

Grip

Damn $9.99 for handguard set is a steal . Too bad it's only in black

Let us know