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Posted: 4/25/2015 4:10:12 PM EDT
you think carb cleaner is good enough to remove the salts after shooting 7n6?
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[#1]
Use Windex.
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Isaiah 57:20
Isaiah 6:8 If somebody tries to kill you... you try to kill them right back! Whoa! My avatar is up... to whom ever, I thank you! Made my day! |
[#2]
thats not part of the question. the question is carb cleaner.
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[Last Edit: dfariswheel]
[#3]
No.
Carb cleaner cannot dissolve salt. Only something that contains water can do that. Here's an easy experiment to determine if a product will clean corrosive salts residue: Put some in a small glass and add a little table salt. If the salt dissolves into suspension and "disappears" it's good for corrosive ammo clean up. If the salt just lays there, it's no good. Carb cleaner is great for removing carbon from gas pistons, but is useless for cleaning corrosive ammo residue from anything. Pick something that contains water. Since nothing does a better job or costs less, just use water, preferably hot water. The only reason Windex works is because it's mostly water. You'd do just as well, and lot cheaper to just fill a squirt bottle with water and add a couple of drops of kitchen soap cleaner. If you're worried about rust, use HOT water. The heat will warm the metal and it'll flash dry without rust. If you're still worried, just buy any good black powder cleaning product. These contain water and usually a rust preventing lube of some sort. |
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[#4]
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[#5]
Originally Posted By dfariswheel:
No. Carb cleaner cannot dissolve salt. Only something that contains water can do that. Here's an easy experiment to determine if a product will clean corrosive salts residue: Put some in a small glass and add a little table salt. If the salt dissolves into suspension and "disappears" it's good for corrosive ammo clean up. If the salt just lays there, it's no good. Carb cleaner is great for removing carbon from gas pistons, but is useless for cleaning corrosive ammo residue from anything. Pick something that contains water. Since nothing does a better job or costs less, just use water, preferably hot water. The only reason Windex works is because it's mostly water. You'd do just as well, and lot cheaper to just fill a squirt bottle with water and add a couple of drops of kitchen soap cleaner. If you're worried about rust, use HOT water. The heat will warm the metal and it'll flash dry without rust. If you're still worried, just buy any good black powder cleaning product. These contain water and usually a rust preventing lube of some sort. View Quote This. |
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[#6]
Originally Posted By dfariswheel:
No. Carb cleaner cannot dissolve salt. Only something that contains water can do that. Here's an easy experiment to determine if a product will clean corrosive salts residue: Put some in a small glass and add a little table salt. If the salt dissolves into suspension and "disappears" it's good for corrosive ammo clean up. If the salt just lays there, it's no good. Carb cleaner is great for removing carbon from gas pistons, but is useless for cleaning corrosive ammo residue from anything. Pick something that contains water. Since nothing does a better job or costs less, just use water, preferably hot water. The only reason Windex works is because it's mostly water. You'd do just as well, and lot cheaper to just fill a squirt bottle with water and add a couple of drops of kitchen soap cleaner. If you're worried about rust, use HOT water. The heat will warm the metal and it'll flash dry without rust. If you're still worried, just buy any good black powder cleaning product. These contain water and usually a rust preventing lube of some sort. View Quote i've used the garden hose then dried it off with the compressed air hose. i live in a really dry climate (tucson) so rust from moisture isnt much of a problem. i always followed up with light gun oil after the water dries in a few hours. just looking for a new way to skin that cat. |
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[Last Edit: CA_TX-Cop]
[#7]
I keep reading these threads talking about how the salt needs to be dissolved, and my own personal experience isn't that it needs to be dissolved so much as just flushed away. It doesn't matter if the compound you use dissolves the salts or just flushes it out, as long as you use enough to get rid of it.
I've used plain hot water, heated in the microwave and then poured through the barrel, dried and oiled later. No problems with any of my 74's or my S&W 15R. EDIT: I don't know if I would use carb cleaner because it removes all moisture, and if you don't flush away the salt before you remove all the oil, then you could end up with some rust shortly afterwards. |
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A closed mouth gathers no foot.
Official Site Nickname, given by NorCal - "Smack" |
[#8]
I use hot water as well. I disassemble every thing and run hot water in the tub to clean everything. I then used compressed air to dry and spray with wd40. I then use a air hose to remove the wd40 and just oil as normal. The other issue with carb cleaner is it might remove your finish. I would say shoot and try and see if the carb cleaner works and let us know the results.
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[Last Edit: apr67]
[#9]
You can use carb cleaner after you use water, but water seems to work best.
Test it yourself. Take fired steel cases from corrosive ammo, and clean each of them as they were your barrel, leave one uncleaned as a control and then let them sit somewhere warm and humid. If the one cleaned with something other than really water and a brush has the same or less rust, you are good. |
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[#10]
I've always used Walmart generic glass cleaner before leaving the range followed by a wipe down with old #9 after a corrosive session. THE Windex flushes the salts out of the bore and evaporates faster than water. Used to be 99 cents a bottle. Everyone at the range looking at you like you're a damp fool -- priceless.
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[#11]
Just use Ballistol mixed with water.
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[#12]
Water is all that you need. Some people swear by Windex. After I shoot my 74 , poor water down the barrel and pour some on bolt and carrier at the range. Just clean as usual after that. I wish all ammo was corrosive , its stores longer and is more reliable.
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[#13]
I use 2 quarts to a gallon of hot tap water and a little dish soap, never had any issues out of my rifles and been shooting 7N6 and Yugo M67 for years.
As mentioned above, you want to get the salt out of it ASAP, lots of water will do that. Any parts that can be removed like the bolt carrier get dunked in a bucket. Hot water will evaporate faster and helps rinse out any loose carbon. Normally I use CLP but for any rifle that gets corrosive ammo on a regular basis gets cleaned & lubed with Ballistol after a rinse. The Ballistol seems to be a good cleaner/lubricant and dissolves in water so most of it rinses out taking most of the carbon with it. Breakfree CLP is just a little harder to clean out, and most surplus ammo is pretty dirty. |
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[#14]
ammonia in windex helps - probably beat but I cant read
I use it on my SVT 40 too |
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Just a guy who likes stuff
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[#15]
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Ignorance is not a point of view.
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[#16]
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"Nothing says 'come to my tree stand for a good cornholing' more than a Browning Buckmark sticker on your oversized truck." - dport
"Tactical" is a mindset, not an equipment list. |
Will trade PMAG for Dang! Butterscotch Root Beer.
WI, USA
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[#17]
Originally Posted By AEnemaBay:
Helps with what? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By AEnemaBay:
Originally Posted By fury413rb:
ammonia in windex helps Helps with what? If it smells clean, it is clean. Ballistol with hot water is the easiest single step rinsing. I just wash the rifle, then dunk in atf tub. |
Seriously, a tractor dealer from Possum Trot, KY has to explain this to you, a lawyer? - JPL
WTB: Glock 17 gen 2. SN CAF 895 |
[#18]
Just use water and then clean as usual.
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[#19]
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[#20]
I use hot water that I heat up in a electric kettle easy peasy! then clean like normal trust its a little never racking the 1st time but after that you will be cool with just water and hey we live in AZ anyhow not much humidity to worry about rusting
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[#21]
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[#22]
I just rinse it with hot water,let dry and clean as normal but I'm blessed with a dry climate so that helps
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"Trust me,you can dance." - Vodka
I learned everything I needed to know about justice in America on July 5,2016 |
[#23]
I've shot several cases of Yugo M67 and have seen rust in under 45 minutes after shooting, but it was raining at the time.
I use soapy water to clean anywhere there is powder fouling, dry, then oil. I usually do this at the range immediately after shooting. I also check a couple days later for rust spots from any corrosive fouling I might have missed. Soapy water is cheap and cuts grease and oil. AJ |
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[#24]
I used a Black Powder cleaner called "Black Off" for a few years. Most of the time.
Sometimes I used to use hot water. As hot as I could get. The poster than recommended hot water was absolutely right. The hot water will both clean off the corrosive salts and by the time you sit down to clean it (the normal type of cleaning with some solvent/brushes/patches) the water will have evaporated. You will still need to put some oil/rust preventative back on the metal surfaces after cleaning. I've done this for my M1A with corrosive S&G .308 and my M&P 15 with Russian 5.45X39 surplus. No rust on either of them if you get them cleaned right away (not such a big deal if you live in a very dry climate, but I once had the AR rust between 5PM on a Saturday and 9AM Sunday morning when it was a humid/damp day and night and I had to drive from NC back to Richmond, VA after the shooting was over. So, it's not a bad idea to do some water/black powder solvent cleaning when you finish shooting if the weather is wet/humid. |
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How you live your life is important. Just be sure the memory of how you died doesn't overshadow the tales of how you lived your life.
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[#25]
Disassemble rifle. Flush well with water hose. Follow with spray bottle 90%water/10% ballistol. Clean/lube as normal. 10 years shooting 7n6 never any rust.
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[#26]
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