Best combat proven gun lube period.... - Page 2

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Best combat proven gun lube period.... (Page 2 of 4)

Posted: 1/23/2008 2:56:46 PM EDT

[#1]

I voted "Other".

I use lithium grease on any part that is shiney (shows metal-on-metal contact). I have shot THOUSANDS of rounds during training with minimal cleaning and never had an issue. A $4 tub will last you for YEARS.

I use brake cleaner or CLP for cleaning and the grease for lubing.

The grease stays put and keeps lubricating parts whereas oil tends to disapear and lose its lubricating properties - especially when guns are run hot.

Whatever you do, run your AR WET - more lube is better than less lube.

Hope this helps,
Mike

Posted: 1/23/2008 3:36:02 PM EDT

[#2]

Anybody else try Machigunners Lube from Larue?For oil this stuff seams to stay in place.Ive lubed pistol and carbines with it,few hundred rounds tear them down and it looks like I just put it on.

Posted: 1/23/2008 3:50:42 PM EDT

[#3]

Quoted:
interesting. i only shoot modern personal reloaded ammo. some wolf every now and again

so now back to the synthetic motor oil. this kind of interests me. synthetic oil has been proven to provide superior protection and improved performance in engines. can the same principles be seen when using it as a lubricant in a firearm?

synthetics resist breakdown related to heat. work well in hot/cold conditions. clean well, etc.

thoughts?

Some people swear by motor oil. I don't. I fix guns for a living, so I've been shown, and tried almost everything out there. I use products that were developed for their intended purpose. Motor oil is designed for a sealed environment. I have tried it as a cost saving lubricant in my shop but customers don't like the smell. I also have trouble skimping on lubricant on my $2000.00+ weapons. Its your weapon and its ultimately your choice. Most people really don't shoot that much, so often a products rust prevention can be just as important as its lubricating properties so consider that too. CLP is an excellent rust preventative.

The most important thing is do what works for you. Your doing the right thing by asking advice. Take the poll as a good gauge of what works. The problem with forums is some people are cheap or has very limited knowledge and will instruct people to follow suit. This applies to anything posted on a forum, not just lubricants. You never know what experience someone has or what their agenda is.

I hope you find a product that suits you.

Take Care.

Posted: 1/23/2008 6:47:36 PM EDT

[#4]

Quoted:

Quoted:
interesting. i only shoot modern personal reloaded ammo. some wolf every now and again

so now back to the synthetic motor oil. this kind of interests me. synthetic oil has been proven to provide superior protection and improved performance in engines. can the same principles be seen when using it as a lubricant in a firearm?

synthetics resist breakdown related to heat. work well in hot/cold conditions. clean well, etc.

thoughts?

Some people swear by motor oil. I don't. I fix guns for a living, so I've been shown, and tried almost everything out there. I use products that were developed for their intended purpose. Motor oil is designed for a sealed environment. I have tried it as a cost saving lubricant in my shop but customers don't like the smell. I also have trouble skimping on lubricant on my $2000.00+ weapons. Its your weapon and its ultimately your choice. Most people really don't shoot that much, so often a products rust prevention can be just as important as its lubricating properties so consider that too. CLP is an excellent rust preventative.

The most important thing is do what works for you. Your doing the right thing by asking advice. Take the poll as a good gauge of what works. The problem with forums is some people are cheap or has very limited knowledge and will instruct people to follow suit. This applies to anything posted on a forum, not just lubricants. You never know what experience someone has or what their agenda is.

I hope you find a product that suits you.

Take Care.

excellent advice. thanks a lot.

Posted: 1/23/2008 7:31:43 PM EDT

[#5]

Quoted:

Quoted:
interesting. i only shoot modern personal reloaded ammo. some wolf every now and again

so now back to the synthetic motor oil. this kind of interests me. synthetic oil has been proven to provide superior protection and improved performance in engines. can the same principles be seen when using it as a lubricant in a firearm?

synthetics resist breakdown related to heat. work well in hot/cold conditions. clean well, etc.

thoughts?

Some people swear by motor oil. I don't. I fix guns for a living, so I've been shown, and tried almost everything out there. I use products that were developed for their intended purpose. Motor oil is designed for a sealed environment. I have tried it as a cost saving lubricant in my shop but customers don't like the smell. I also have trouble skimping on lubricant on my $2000.00+ weapons. Its your weapon and its ultimately your choice. Most people really don't shoot that much, so often a products rust prevention can be just as important as its lubricating properties so consider that too. CLP is an excellent rust preventative.

The most important thing is do what works for you. Your doing the right thing by asking advice. Take the poll as a good gauge of what works. The problem with forums is some people are cheap or has very limited knowledge and will instruct people to follow suit. This applies to anything posted on a forum, not just lubricants. You never know what experience someone has or what their agenda is.

I hope you find a product that suits you.

Take Care.

excellent advice. thanks a lot.

Your very welcome.

Posted: 1/24/2008 4:51:54 PM EDT

[#6]

now with the thicker lubes like the greases. wouldn't these effect the performance of the rifle by slowing down the action because of its thicker consistency?

would they also attract more dirt and grime?

Posted: 1/24/2008 5:05:58 PM EDT

[#7]

Break-Free CLP for oil.

Wagner wheel bearing grease for gun grease. I have some left from my motorcycle building days. Works great on my 1911's slides.

Posted: 1/24/2008 9:58:03 PM EDT

[#8]

Quoted:
Now with the thicker lubes like the greases. wouldn't these effect the performance of the rifle by slowing down the action because of its thicker consistency?

I have never noted a any "sluggishness" with grease. I've shot in the summer in the high 90's and in the winter down to -1F or so. The advantage is that the grease stays put. If you oil up an AR, you'll notice oil ends up on the outside of the reciever around the trigger pins, etc. - that oil is NOT where it needs to be - lubricating the bolt / bolt carrier and keeping it moving smoothly.

would they also attract more dirt and grime?

I've again never had an issue with dirt or grime jamming up my AR - and I've run my guns filthy in muddy, wet, dry, cold, hot and overall nasty conditions (as well as nice conditions)

With ARs, the key is to have a mil-spec chamber, chrome lined barrel, quality gun (I run a 16" LMT), and lots of lube (I prefer grease for the reasons mentioned).

If you don't want to use grease, just keep your lube of choice with you and keep the gun wet - it'll work.

Posted: 1/25/2008 8:04:39 AM EDT

[#9]

Quoted:
now with the thicker lubes like the greases. wouldn't these effect the performance of the rifle by slowing down the action because of its thicker consistency?

would they also attract more dirt and grime?

From a former grease user, yes.

Posted: 1/25/2008 10:53:06 AM EDT

[#10]

Personally, I spray Eezox into the tight spots/crevices in my firearms and use Weapon Shield on the critial parts; slide rails, guide rod, trigger bar, connector, etc. Grease is avoided in my semis. Eezox goes on the outsides as well.

Posted: 1/25/2008 3:12:29 PM EDT

[#11]

Quoted:
now with the thicker lubes like the greases. wouldn't these effect the performance of the rifle by slowing down the action because of its thicker consistency?

would they also attract more dirt and grime?

Not if you're using the right grease. Newer synthetic base lightweight greases are excellent.

Posted: 1/25/2008 3:21:08 PM EDT

[#12]

CLP.

Posted: 1/25/2008 4:32:05 PM EDT

[#13]

I would think if grease worked better for most condition the US Military would instruct its usage instead of BF CLP.

I would not recommend the usage of grease. Its may help reduce wear under certain conditions but it can also get some place its not supposed to.

Build-up of thick substances can cause excessive pressure in particular platforms (Too much oil in a barrel or chamber can too). I have seen customers come in with Blown up pistols, rifles, and shotguns that had a little dirt, sand, snow, ice, or grease in the wrong places that contributed to a dangerous situation and a blown rifle.

Here's one good grease story:

I had a customer crack 2 glock locking blocks by using grease. Glocks, HK, and older SIGs are a rarity to get in for repairs, so when one guy had 2 at the same time I knew something was up. I replaced the locking blocks and gave the pistols a thorough cleaning, checkout, and test fire. When I saw all the grease I told him its probably what caused his failures, he got mad and left (I normally get the same response when I tell people not to use WD40 on their weapons). Well............... 3 months later he was back with the same 2 pistols and the locking blocks were broken again (he claims about 1000 rounds through each gun since picking them up). I cleaned out the guns, replaced the locking blocks, and test fired them free of charge. I knew what caused the problem but I like to have committed customers. I told his to use only BF CLP this time(gave him a free bottle). That was one year ago and he says not one problem since.

Does any major rifle or handgun manufacturer recommend grease over oil?

Posted: 1/26/2008 12:36:43 PM EDT

[#14]

Hands down, BF CLP.

Posted: 1/26/2008 2:40:15 PM EDT

[#15]

Posted: 1/26/2008 7:04:14 PM EDT

[#16]

i was reading on the militec site. they mention that you have to first completely clean the rifle then apply their lube. once that is done you are suppose to go shoot and while the rifle is still hot apply it again. it chemically strengthens the metal but does not harden it. how in the hell does that work?

Posted: 1/26/2008 7:20:31 PM EDT

[#17]

Tried it all, always go back to break free CLP,except for my L1A1 which gets grease.

Posted: 1/27/2008 11:24:16 AM EDT

[#18]

I like this stuff as of recently: mil-comm

Posted: 1/27/2008 4:43:31 PM EDT

[#19]

I recently bought some of that Slip stuff and I like it, gonna have to try break-free clp

Posted: 1/27/2008 7:31:21 PM EDT

[#20]

.

Posted: 1/31/2008 12:41:43 PM EDT

[#21]

Here's an interesting test of how well common gun lubes prevent rust:
The Gune Zone - corrosion test

Posted: 1/31/2008 12:48:47 PM EDT

[#22]

Quoted:
I voted "Other".

I use lithium grease on any part that is shiney (shows metal-on-metal contact). I have shot THOUSANDS of rounds during training with minimal cleaning and never had an issue. A $4 tub will last you for YEARS.

I use brake cleaner or CLP for cleaning and the grease for lubing.

The grease stays put and keeps lubricating parts whereas oil tends to disapear and lose its lubricating properties - especially when guns are run hot.

Whatever you do, run your AR WET - more lube is better than less lube.

Hope this helps,
Mike

I agree with Mike on this. I came from the "CLP for cleaning and lubing" club since I was in the US Army in the 80s. I stuck with various forms of CLP, but the main problem with them on a rifle is that they do burn away under sustained shooting.

Within the last year I've switched to using red high temperature lithium grease (RLG) for lubing my rifles. This does not burn off, and as Mike says, it stays in place. It also will 'catch' carbon and powder residue. I tend to put the RLG onto my bolt and on the metal-metal contact areas on the BCG and inside the upper receiver. I also tend to put a finger thick coat all over the BCG in order to do the 'catching' mentioned above.

For lubing pistols I use a mix of FP10 and RLG on different parts.

I still use CLP - FP10 at this time, for cleaning pistols, shotguns, or rifles.

Posted: 1/31/2008 12:52:11 PM EDT

[#23]

Quoted:

Quoted:
i just want to know which oil has been combat proven to protect the rifle in all conditions.

CLP

And now we must ask...which one?

Breakfree

dont forget the current CLP Royco.

Royco CLP is supposed to be good stuff, but last time I checked it could only be purchased in very large quantities (cases, IIRC). Anyone have a source?

FWIW, I use Break Free CLP on my ARs (buy it by the gallon) and will use MD Labs XF-7 grease on my Garand after reading this:

TO: Kevin MCClung
MD Labs
Mr. Clung,
Smith Enterprise, Inc. has at long last found the do-everything, go anywhere lubricant in the form of your XF-7 compound. We have found through our own rigorous in house testing that this remarkable product functions exactly as advertised in virtually any environment and most importantly, does not fly off the weapon's operating components. We find this especially critical in select-fire and semiautomatic weapons used in a military application.

In fact, every one of our suppressed M14SE "Crazy Horse" Semiautomatic Sniper Systems now being delivered to to the US Armed Forces includes XF-7 with the rifle. To date, we have heard nothing but stellar reports from those Service Members in Iraq who use your product on our weapons. We have found that in the intense Iraqi environment that XF-7 is the only product that stays on the weapon, while simultaneously not attracting dust and dirt. Likewise, in a maritime environment, XF-7 offers long-lasting lubrication, which is otherwise nearly impossible to maintain in or near salt water.
We absolutely endorse XF-7 for all military small arms. Keep up the good work.

Sincerely,
Richard L. Pimley
Federal Systems Coordinator
Smith Enterprise, Inc.
www.smithenterprise.com
480 964-1818

Posted: 1/31/2008 12:59:06 PM EDT

[#24]

Quoted:
Here's an interesting test of how well common gun lubes prevent rust:
The Gune Zone - corrosion test

good read. thanks for the link...

i have not gone out and shot with clp in my rifle. like other have mentioned i have always worried about the lube burning off and thus nothing protecting my rifle.

Posted: 1/31/2008 12:59:13 PM EDT

[#25]

BF CLP and/or FP-10

Posted: 1/31/2008 1:00:37 PM EDT

[#26]

CLP

Posted: 1/31/2008 1:18:12 PM EDT

[#27]

FP-10 all the way.

Posted: 2/2/2008 9:26:02 AM EDT

[#28]

I use regular 'ol CLP to do the basics (cleaning/coating), and grease on the friction surfaces.

Posted: 2/7/2008 3:13:06 PM EDT

[#29]

You forgot regular old axle grease. That is what M1 Garands and M14s were designed to be lubed with. Not sure about grease on M16's but some people(certainly not in the military) do use it.

Posted: 2/9/2008 3:22:28 PM EDT

[#30]

can we get this pinned to the top of the section? i think it will help with a lot of first timers questions on lube.

Posted: 2/10/2008 6:08:58 AM EDT

[#31]

Quoted:
can we get this pinned to the top of the section? i think it will help with a lot of first timers questions on lube.

I don't think it is material for a pinned topic. It is no secret that most, including the military, prefer CLP.

Posted: 2/10/2008 7:14:08 AM EDT

[#32]

ok well it was news to me!

Posted: 2/11/2008 9:55:32 AM EDT

[#33]

i prefer astroglide myself.......oh you mean for the rifle.........uh yeah CLP all the way the wetter the better

Posted: 2/11/2008 3:11:45 PM EDT

[#34]

Per advice from Pat Rogers I just got some SLiP 2000 to try out.

Posted: 2/11/2008 9:45:38 PM EDT

[#35]

Quoted:
Per advice from Pat Rogers I just got some SLiP 2000 to try out.

it will change your mind, probably for good

Posted: 2/11/2008 10:28:20 PM EDT

[#36]

Quoted:
I personally use Break-Free CLP as a general light lube/cleaner, and use Break-Free LP as my main lube.

+1
never an issue with failure to function in any way or excessive wear on any of mine or my friend's guns (AR, 1911, .22's, Glocks, rem 700)!!!

Posted: 2/11/2008 10:50:57 PM EDT

[#37]

I like Strike-Hold in the sandy environments.

Posted: 2/11/2008 10:58:48 PM EDT

[#38]

C= Ed's Red, Mineral Spirits rinse
L= TriFlow (light oil), Mobil 1 synthetic grease
P= BreakFree

Posted: 2/11/2008 11:10:24 PM EDT

[#39]

Quoted:
i prefer astroglide myself.......oh you mean for the rifle.........uh yeah CLP all the way the wetter the better

Wet Platinum all the way!

For the rifle, BF or Weapon Shield CLP with RIG+P on the cam pin if I feel like it, usually good old BF CLP though.

On the buffer spring I use Tetra Grease sometimes for a range-gun. No SPROOOOINNGGGGG.

Posted: 2/13/2008 6:50:16 PM EDT

[#40]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Per advice from Pat Rogers I just got some SLiP 2000 to try out.

it will change your mind, probably for good

I had the EWL and didnt care for it much. Im back to good ol BF now.

Posted: 2/13/2008 7:14:11 PM EDT

[#41]

the stuff that comes in the Hoppes kits... total junk? is #9 a bad solvent too?

Posted: 2/14/2008 3:16:37 AM EDT

[#42]

Nothing wrong with No. 9 Solvent. when used as a cleaner.

Posted: 2/14/2008 6:37:55 AM EDT

[#43]

CLP is crap.. It gums up and dries off.......Li grease and Slip 2000 works longer with less application....

Posted: 2/14/2008 7:19:47 AM EDT

[#44]

Been using Break Free CLP, as well as a few other CLP's, for over 10 years never once has it gummed up.

Posted: 2/14/2008 3:32:00 PM EDT

[#45]

Grease question(s):

I'm with the guys who feel the military is using CLP to have one liquid product do everything, as opposed to having two or three that excel in their own areas. Faster and easier, yeah, but based on what it is made of it will never be the "ultimate" lube - which some of us are looking for after we've chosen the cleaning agent of our choice.

I like the synthetic motor-oil idea, but agree there, too, that oils end up running away from the parts they are supposed to lubricate in an open system (that would be for all oils, not just motor oils).

In as far as grease, though, for the grease-guys, I've long heard the benefits of lithium-based greases, but have too many times seen the white-ish Lithium greases looking dried out before their time.

I switched to synthetic marine boat bearing grease for a good amount of applications (outside of boating), and am wondering why you guys use, or hold to, the lithiums (both red and white) as opposed to switching to a synthetic-based? Is it because the lithiums were top-dog a number of years ago? Or is there something I don't know about lithium greases?

And are you guys even using grease on the bolt's three "gas-rings"? That's one area I'm considering just using oil.

I'm not saying I'm going to use marine boat bearing grease, but if there's a light synthetic grease out there, that's what I'll end up trying.

And I'll keep using CLP for cleaning and for multi-surface protection.

Posted: 2/14/2008 4:56:55 PM EDT

[#46]

If you want a light teflon based grease look up TW-25B (approved for some military machine guns), or tetera.

I use a li complex grease semi syn (pl-10) on my M1 and M1A, only because it also the grease I use for automotive applications.

Posted: 2/14/2008 6:27:17 PM EDT

[#47]

Actually, I'd use a Lithium grease before I would use a teflon grease. Thanks, I'll look into that PL-10, it may be acceptable.

Posted: 2/14/2008 8:32:26 PM EDT

[#48]

Quoted:
Personally, I spray Eezox into the tight spots/crevices in my firearms and use Weapon Shield on the critial parts; slide rails, guide rod, trigger bar, connector, etc. Grease is avoided in my semis. Eezox goes on the outsides as well.

Eezox for me. Of course, in Houston rust is always around the corner ...

Posted: 2/15/2008 6:27:00 AM EDT

[#49]

has anyone tried LaRue's machine gunner's lube?

Posted: 2/15/2008 10:13:49 AM EDT

[#50]

Yes,I like it alot.Seams to stay were you want it.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Best combat proven gun lube period.... (Page 2 of 4)

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