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Link Posted: 12/14/2005 3:58:00 PM EDT
[#1]

Quoted:
Mongo,  how much is an autographed mongo mini sledge.   I want one?




+1
Link Posted: 12/14/2005 4:33:02 PM EDT
[#2]

Oversized punch + big hammer + two hard hits per pin = pins out. This has worked for me 100% of the time. To date, I've removed the pins on 15-20 Bushmaster barrels without issue. I only use two 3/4" X 3/4" strips of oak to support the FSB and barrel and do this on a standard workbench.




+1 on that never had a problem unless I first try a pinch with the same size dia. has the pin.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 1:06:04 AM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
hmmm, 3 votes for 8 oz hammers



Tweak-

I came up with a new system, but it's very similar to using a hydraulic press.

I made a backup piece that sits against the FSB.
It is 1/2" diameter steel, about 1/2" long.
It's drilled about 0.150" down the middle and turned down to about 3/8" on one end for half the length.
This wonderful little piece will fit up against the handguard cap (over the large end of the taper pin) and allow me to clamp the FSB against it in a simple bench vise.
As there is a small amount of the small end of the taper pin sticking out on the other side, I am putting pressure on the pin with one vise jaw and on the FSB with my little backup piece.
Crank down on the vise until you get the wonderful "POP" of the pin being dislodged.

NO Bushmaster pin has been able to defeat my vise yet!

Randall Rausch
www.ar15barrels.com
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 4:29:30 AM EDT
[#4]
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 8:08:31 AM EDT
[#5]
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 3:35:56 PM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:

Quoted:
hmmm, 3 votes for 8 oz hammers



Tweak-

I came up with a new system, but it's very similar to using a hydraulic press.

I made a backup piece that sits against the FSB.
It is 1/2" diameter steel, about 1/2" long.
It's drilled about 0.150" down the middle and turned down to about 3/8" on one end for half the length.
This wonderful little piece will fit up against the handguard cap (over the large end of the taper pin) and allow me to clamp the FSB against it in a simple bench vise.
As there is a small amount of the small end of the taper pin sticking out on the other side, I am putting pressure on the pin with one vise jaw and on the FSB with my little backup piece.
Crank down on the vise until you get the wonderful "POP" of the pin being dislodged.

NO Bushmaster pin has been able to defeat my vise yet!

Randall Rausch
www.ar15barrels.com



Randall,

 Email sent!!

Weazer
Link Posted: 12/19/2005 5:12:34 AM EDT
[#7]
Link Posted: 12/19/2005 11:30:44 AM EDT
[#8]
I need help. I have isolated my FSB, used kroil, applied heat, threw it in the freezer, used a tiny hammer, then a big hammer, then an even bigger hammer...

I am tired of dealing with it. Does anyone have a picture of the appropriate cross cuts to chop away the FSB? It is unusable as it is scarred for life and I dont need it for any projects down the road?

better yet, does anyone have any ideas for a feild expediant press? Or maybe a small hydrolic press that I would be able to make DIY?
Link Posted: 12/19/2005 1:37:35 PM EDT
[#9]
Ok... I cut the peice of crap off.

From pictures like this one:


it appears that the pins only "catch" on half of the barrel, and the other half on the FSB.

The bushmaster I just decimated went almost entirely through the barrel. The picture above illustrates an open portion of the barrel where the pins go... mine was closed... in effect two holes though the barrel.

Comments tweak?
Link Posted: 12/19/2005 2:11:43 PM EDT
[#10]
Link Posted: 12/19/2005 5:10:25 PM EDT
[#11]
I always send my Bushy barrels off to Bushmaster whenever I need the FSB removed. I figure let them deal with the pins that won't come out, someday they might learn how to install an FSB like Colt does. Also if they screw it up they have to replace it.

Tweak, will Bushmaster replace barrels that have the tapper pin holes drilled out of spec?
Link Posted: 12/19/2005 5:40:17 PM EDT
[#12]
I just tried a variation on Randall's method of using a vise as a press and it worked perfectly.  No more beating out tough pins for me.  

Thanks Randall.
Link Posted: 12/19/2005 6:06:54 PM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 12/19/2005 6:10:41 PM EDT
[#14]
Link Posted: 12/19/2005 6:29:24 PM EDT
[#15]
Link Posted: 12/27/2005 9:12:49 AM EDT
[#16]
Link Posted: 12/27/2005 10:29:20 PM EDT
[#17]
MODERATORS~

Can we get this thread or atleast the pictures and directions of Randall's little gizmo tacked?
This is great stuff.

Randall, I think you might just have a new product you can market..

Gene
Link Posted: 12/27/2005 10:55:00 PM EDT
[#18]
Link Posted: 12/28/2005 12:32:55 AM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Randall, I think you might just have a new product you can market..

Gene



Ya ain't seen nothing yet.
I came up with an even simpler (easy to produce and no vise required) idea this afternoon.
Give me a few weeks to get my shop up-and-running and I will have a few samples made to send to Mongo, Tweak and Dano to play with.
Then, and only then, will I have a product to market...



Can you say "CHA-CHING".  I'll be looking.


Gene

of course I'll be trying the stacked up washer idea next time I have to do this.  
Link Posted: 12/28/2005 2:43:50 AM EDT
[#20]
Here's a taper pin reamer source:

Link
Link Posted: 12/28/2005 2:55:43 AM EDT
[#21]

Quoted:
Here's a taper pin reamer source:

Link



Thanks man! I will add it to the box.
Link Posted: 1/7/2006 11:28:26 AM EDT
[#22]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Randall, I think you might just have a new product you can market..

Gene



Ya ain't seen nothing yet.
I came up with an even simpler (easy to produce and no vise required) idea this afternoon.
Give me a few weeks to get my shop up-and-running and I will have a few samples made to send to Mongo, Tweak and Dano to play with.
Then, and only then, will I have a product to market...



Randall, whatever this handy-dandy device is, I will get one!
I put off the install of a Larue rail until I got the 'right' tools.

All the suggested methods, freezing, Kroil, Brownells benchblock, taper pin starter, mini sledge, were defeated by the *&^%($  FSB pins of my M4 Colt.  I have a nicely flattened Starett pin starter now.


Colt must press them in hydraulically, at -80 deg F.  Had the same problem removing a FSB in the 1980's when all the appropriate tools weren't easily available.

Damned FSB pins
Link Posted: 1/7/2006 2:48:33 PM EDT
[#23]
Link Posted: 1/7/2006 6:53:01 PM EDT
[#24]
Using the vice as a press works awesome!  I use a couple of 1/4" drive sockets of various sizes as a backer and use a torx bit in a socket as a pusher.  Works perfectly.  Center everything up and start cranking on the handle until the pin moves moves.  Even works on the really tough ones.  I had one tough one that I really had to crank on, but it came loose.  It does take a couple of people to do it.  Great suggestion.  

I am interested in your new setup Randall, the vice works good enough that I have basically thrown out the delrin Brownells block.  Anything that would work without needing to sets of hands to setup would be handy.
Link Posted: 1/8/2006 8:53:36 AM EDT
[#25]

Quoted:
I have a nicely flattened Starett pin starter now.



I have one of those too.
Link Posted: 1/9/2006 6:41:27 AM EDT
[#26]

Quoted:
not a starter punch, a VERY LARGE punch like 1/4" D, you are beating on the small end right?



Even if someone did not know the pins go out left to right, the Brownell's block makes it dummy proof.

I will try the vise method this weekend.

Link Posted: 1/15/2006 11:40:34 AM EDT
[#27]
Finally got the pins out and learned that the best way is to press them out with a vise.  Used the idea Randall mentioned to push out the pins.  My improvised method used a 3/16" socket and a hardened punch along with the handymans best friend - duct tape.

 I duct taped the socket (small end out)  to the upper end of the vise jaw, and taped the punch lengthwise inside the vise jaw so that the flat is opposite the socket.  Check for alignment with the FSB pin and slowly tighten it while maintaining alignment. The pin will be pushed left to right into the opening of the socket.   My pins did not pop as much as were pushed out enough for the (now repaired) starter punch to tap them out.  I had soaked the pins in Kroil and it had penetrated the joint.  After installing the Larue rail, I pressed the pins back in to their original depth.  

I suspect that the smoother the pin seats are drilled/machined, the harder the pins will be to drive out.  The Colt pins and their seats were well machined.  The pins must be pressed in hydraulically since you don't see them boogered up from the factory.

From now on, I will use the vise method.
Link Posted: 1/24/2006 2:26:05 PM EDT
[#28]
Bump for update on Randall's new taper pin tool.
Link Posted: 1/24/2006 4:29:38 PM EDT
[#29]
tag for updates also
Link Posted: 1/24/2006 10:52:30 PM EDT
[#30]
Randall, what can I say?  Hat's off to you, guy!

Link Posted: 1/26/2006 9:40:35 PM EDT
[#31]
Tried the vise method. It made a deep (and I mean deep) ring-shaped indent in the FSB, and the taper pin did not budge at all.

I've been working on this FSB (a Bushmaster, of course) with no luck for hours, and as you can see from my other thread, I'm very concerned about harming the barrel. I may cut the FSB off and use the YHM.
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