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View Quote I'm still of the mind that putting the bipod on the barrel no matter how heavy the profile is plainly retarded when a stable forend is mere inches rearward. |
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"What is socialism? The most difficult and tortuous way to progress from capitalism to capitalism." -Stated at an intel conference, East Berlin, Oct. 1988
"Every election is a sort of advance auction sale of stolen goods." -H.L. Mencken |
Originally Posted By 74novaman: Probably not final form, but my AR RPK as it sits right now: https://i.imgur.com/zas6nBN.jpg Lower stolen from A4gery. Upper details: 20” heavy fluted Faxon barrel Adams Arms piston kit Adams Arms Piston BCG Samson Evo rail Magpul Bipod Rugged Micro30 Primary Arms 5x prism Going piston drove a lot of the decisions here. Adams arms kit works best with gi spec or similar barre nuts, so I had to find a FF tube that also fit a GI nut. The Samson evo rail had a cut to reach the adjustable piston, and uses a thermal bushing to mate to the barrel nut so should keep the handguard cooler when doing RPK stuff. Threw a set of BUIS on to get a apples to apples weight comparison. https://i.imgur.com/sXGfFjr.jpg Yugo M72 milled RPK: 10 lbs, 13.5 oz AR-RPK: 8 lbs, 5.5 oz with irons, 10 lbs, 5.2 oz with PA 5x and suppressor View Quote Nice. A lot more capability for half a pound less. Bookmarking that rail. |
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Originally Posted By stormhammer: I've actually been building one similar - I finished my 20" upper and just awaiting my lower to come in, so threw it onto my 16" rifle https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/570439/385520270_294010673570684_89243597023731-3004508.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/570439/394295738_10103413242387402_110195286544-3004510.jpg I had the bipod mounted back ala the HK 762's, but recently moved it to the end of the handguard, changed from the handstop to a BCM vertical and put the scope into a 1.7 mount. View Quote I was actually thinking, when I put my 1-6 on, I might as well get a 3-9 or similar. I don't really want the 1x, 3x minimum sounds good, and I'd like a little more than than that. Then I was thinking, my AR-RPK is just someone else's DMR build, except I'd like to be able to shoot faster, maybe closer, and for 300 rounds in an hour. I'm just giving up MOA accuracy for the idea of saturating a target with cheaper ammo I already have a giant stock of. Nice rifle. What optic is that? |
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Have any of you guys used one of those JP thermal dissipators? I've got a buddy that'll sell me a HBAR cheap, and I'm debating trying that out with a thermal dissipator.
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Originally Posted By Nameless_Hobo: Have any of you guys used one of those JP thermal dissipators? I've got a buddy that'll sell me a HBAR cheap, and I'm debating trying that out with a thermal dissipator. View Quote I don't think any of those will fit a regular old HBAR that's got a 0.75" gas block. |
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Originally Posted By SuperStormBryan: I don't think any of those will fit a regular old HBAR that's got a 0.75" gas block. View Quote I'll take a look again, if I'm reading JP's stuff right they fit a .75" barrel and IIRC that's about what the heavy barrel I have measures. I'll look and see. |
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Have you dudes actually tried running these rifles set up as a LSW? Like tried shooting quick 3-5 strings at targets at 100-200-300 to see how accurate you can be?
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Originally Posted By TBone556: Have you dudes actually tried running these rifles set up as a LSW? Like tried shooting quick 3-5 strings at targets at 100-200-300 to see how accurate you can be? View Quote You saw my page two post of just chimping a couple mags as fast as possible, and safely first time out, at 50 and 75 yards. I'm drilling three round strings right now and I'll see how that goes, trying to settle that tempo. I predict I'll be minute of man all day long at 200+ with a beat. Going to be a minute until I can shoot out to that distance with this though, in that manner. Right now, I'm looking more towards sustained accurate fire over a long duration, staging reloads, reloading off a bipod, deploying, and packing to move this kit from a firing position. My rapid fire scenario I want to shoot is racing to saturate a six or eight foot spread, say around a window or vehicle. |
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Originally Posted By TBone556: Have you dudes actually tried running these rifles set up as a LSW? Like tried shooting quick 3-5 strings at targets at 100-200-300 to see how accurate you can be? View Quote |
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If God didn't want them sheared, he would not have made them sheep.
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Originally Posted By IslandTimes: I built this upper a while back with the goal of an RPK type build. I used a Wolf A1 piston system and a proto/retro style upper receiver with a 17.7" BA barrel. Would have preferred a heavier and longer barrel, free float handguard, and non-folding front sight, but was limited to what was available at the time. I did swap out the lower handguard for a metal picatinny model, but still need to pick up a bipod. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/290770/PXL_20230127_014829299_2_jpg-2687041.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By IslandTimes: I built this upper a while back with the goal of an RPK type build. I used a Wolf A1 piston system and a proto/retro style upper receiver with a 17.7" BA barrel. Would have preferred a heavier and longer barrel, free float handguard, and non-folding front sight, but was limited to what was available at the time. I did swap out the lower handguard for a metal picatinny model, but still need to pick up a bipod. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/290770/PXL_20230127_014829299_2_jpg-2687041.JPG Originally Posted By IslandTimes: I'd like to get a different bipod setup, but this is how mine sits now. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/290770/PXL_20231006_122848904_2_jpg-2980553.JPG That is wild. I dig it. |
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It doesn't matter if she's imaginary. The thiccness exists in our hearts.
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Originally Posted By 74novaman: Probably not final form, but my AR RPK as it sits right now: https://i.imgur.com/zas6nBN.jpg Lower stolen from A4gery. Upper details: 20” heavy fluted Faxon barrel Adams Arms piston kit Adams Arms Piston BCG Samson Evo rail Magpul Bipod Rugged Micro30 Primary Arms 5x prism Going piston drove a lot of the decisions here. Adams arms kit works best with gi spec or similar barre nuts, so I had to find a FF tube that also fit a GI nut. The Samson evo rail had a cut to reach the adjustable piston, and uses a thermal bushing to mate to the barrel nut so should keep the handguard cooler when doing RPK stuff. Threw a set of BUIS on to get a apples to apples weight comparison. https://i.imgur.com/sXGfFjr.jpg Yugo M72 milled RPK: 10 lbs, 13.5 oz AR-RPK: 8 lbs, 5.5 oz with irons, 10 lbs, 5.2 oz with PA 5x and suppressor View Quote I think you need a folding carry handle to complete the project 40rnd Pmag too |
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I wouldn't stand in front of a piss-filled supersoaker. Does that make it a good pistol? - Caboose314
I thought I was covered for 22 cans, but the NFAids is a bitch when it mutates - themagikbullet |
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Originally Posted By bradpierson26: I think you need a folding carry handle to complete the project 40rnd Pmag too View Quote Got plenty of 40s and some D60s. Project was on hold until Adams shipped the bolt spring that was missing from my kit and it finally showed up monday. Hopefully can do some initial zeroing/shakedown Thursday. Planning to also do some comparison drills/temp testing between a 20” DI govt upper and this 20” piston upper. Hopefully Thursday but possibly after Thanksgiving. |
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Originally Posted By Aimless: You're calling each other names at 8 on a sunday in a thread about ancient rome. smiley_freak.gif
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View Quote That’s legit! |
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I wouldn't stand in front of a piss-filled supersoaker. Does that make it a good pistol? - Caboose314
I thought I was covered for 22 cans, but the NFAids is a bitch when it mutates - themagikbullet |
What’s the best combo flash hider / comp/break that will help control recoil while effectively reducing visual signature?
I don’t think this would be a great application for a suppressor. |
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Originally Posted By The_Five_Elements: What's the best combo flash hider / comp/break that will help control recoil while effectively reducing visual signature? I don't think this would be a great application for a suppressor. View Quote |
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"Technique isn't something that can be taught. It's something you find on your own." - Bunta Fujiwara
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Editor hammer-follow.
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"Technique isn't something that can be taught. It's something you find on your own." - Bunta Fujiwara
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Originally Posted By HighpowerRifleBrony: I don't know of any that do all three. The A2 and Warcomps are some of the best at flash reduction and flip reduction, but do nothing for recoil. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By HighpowerRifleBrony: Originally Posted By The_Five_Elements: What's the best combo flash hider / comp/break that will help control recoil while effectively reducing visual signature? I don't think this would be a great application for a suppressor. Agreed on both, the basic A2 works well, especially for the price, while the Warcomp is impressive, if you don't mind the price. Just personal opinion, but even a standard 20" A2 doesn't have much recoil so a heavier barreled version, with a bipod and optic should be even more manageable (my only 20" barrels are older gov profile). If you're not planning on running it suppressed, I'd go simple and cheap and use an A2, possibly one of the extended ones. Actually I think I've got an extra Vortex or two around that I'd probably use. |
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So I shot mine the other day and the gas is atrocious.
I am using a side charging upper which has a little trap door on the back to allow the BCG gas key in. I am also using a suppressor which is causing the gas problem. I am considering either putting in an adjustable gas block or a piston conversion. Thoughts? I have AGBs on other rifles and the gas still seems bad with them, even though they have a slower RPM. |
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Originally Posted By The_Five_Elements: What’s the best combo flash hider / comp/break that will help control recoil while effectively reducing visual signature? I don’t think this would be a great application for a suppressor. View Quote What about this? |
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I wouldn't stand in front of a piss-filled supersoaker. Does that make it a good pistol? - Caboose314
I thought I was covered for 22 cans, but the NFAids is a bitch when it mutates - themagikbullet |
@03RN
Hey good buddy, I'm about to pull the trigger on a GG&G bipod, and I've got a question for you that relates to this thread. Panning or no panning? Going out a few times with the Magpul bipod is telling me no pan, I feel like I'm more stable with the pan locked out and recovery is a bit faster. You got any thoughts? |
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OP, can you tell use more about that SAW pouch? How well do PMags fit and how do you have the strap attached?
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Anti-gun, anti-freedom California legislator Leland Yee served FIVE YEARS for running machine guns and rocket launchers to gangs.
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Originally Posted By brachiosaur: OP, can you tell use more about that SAW pouch? How well do PMags fit and how do you have the strap attached? View Quote Its just a basic surplus 200 round SAW pouch. Seven pmags fit in there fine, you don't have to force them or anything. They sit just a little deep, I might put a couple magpul on a some as starters, but if you're prone you can push the bottom end and they'll slide out. Now that I think about it, I might run a length of shock cord with a little barrel lock to collapse it down when some are expended. Top flap close fine on them. I just have the strap attached with the metal clips that come on a canteen strap. I just clipped them on the molle straps on the back. I'll probably take another and just just paracord on the back and run some cheap 2" webbing through it. |
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Originally Posted By SuperStormBryan: @03RN Hey good buddy, I'm about to pull the trigger on a GG&G bipod, and I've got a question for you that relates to this thread. Panning or no panning? Going out a few times with the Magpul bipod is telling me no pan, I feel like I'm more stable with the pan locked out and recovery is a bit faster. You got any thoughts? View Quote You'll be more stable but it will be harder to engage multiple threats |
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"If you cant do something smart, do something right"
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I finally got my Hoffman safety. I highly recommend it to you guys, it’s the closest I’ve used to “the real thing.”
I’ve got to investigate a good way to reduce my rate of fire now, though. |
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Originally Posted By Nameless_Hobo: I finally got my Hoffman safety. I highly recommend it to you guys, it’s the closest I’ve used to “the real thing.” I’ve got to investigate a good way to reduce my rate of fire now, though. View Quote I'll second this. The cross bar safety is odd but nothing else comes close on the market currently. H3 buffer is a good place to start, when I get around to a dedicated upper it'll likely have a riflespeed gas block on it for the easiest/quickest tuneablilty for all scenarios. |
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Originally Posted By ARK_Ginger: I'll second this. The cross bar safety is odd but nothing else comes close on the market currently. H3 buffer is a good place to start, when I get around to a dedicated upper it'll likely have a riflespeed gas block on it for the easiest/quickest tuneablilty for all scenarios. View Quote It really excels for the cost. After I get my home made LSW built im going to start experimenting with the Hoffman on a .308. RRH is supposed to release a .308 upper soon. |
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Here's the upper I pieced together for our LMG/RPK-type build. It's for our full-stocked, select-fire SP1.
Windham 16" HBAR, CL, Dissipator carbine bbl. A.R.M.S. Mid-length handguard Modified SP1 upper RSI M60 bipod Smith Tactics Side-Kick CH MG42-style FH GG&G short VFG Mepro RDS Wanted kind of an M60-lite look. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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"An age of glory passed like a lightning flash. The mandate of heaven passed from you but you didn't see. Times change and power passes. It is the pity of the world."
Song dynasty poet |
Anyone figured out a way to cantilever mount a bipod out past the front of the handguard without attaching it to the barrel?
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Originally Posted By castlebravo84: Anyone figured out a way to cantilever mount a bipod out past the front of the handguard without attaching it to the barrel? View Quote Long handguard cut down, long rail section attached? Honestly, if you're using a heavy barrel how much impact shift are you expecting and, if you're employing it as an RPK style weapon, does it matter enough to make a difference? If you're expecting it to fill some sort of DM role too then yeah, I can see addressing it, otherwise I wouldn't bother. JMHO |
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Originally Posted By castlebravo84: Anyone figured out a way to cantilever mount a bipod out past the front of the handguard without attaching it to the barrel? View Quote It depends on how far you've got to go. Only thing I can think of is: https://yhm.net/accessories/rails-mounts/6-rail-extension/ I bought one to use as a riser on another build, I actually cut most of it down for it, but its really solid. |
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Originally Posted By Strela: Here's the upper I pieced together for our LMG/RPK-type build. It's for our full-stocked, select-fire SP1. Windham 16" HBAR, CL, Dissipator carbine bbl. A.R.M.S. Mid-length handguard Modified SP1 upper RSI M60 bipod Smith Tactics Side-Kick CH MG42-style FH GG&G short VFG Mepro RDS Wanted kind of an M60-lite look. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/6163/LMG15_2_jpeg-3084474.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/6163/LMG19_2_jpeg-3084475.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/6163/LMG12_2_jpeg-3084476.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/6163/LMG6_2_jpeg-3084478.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/6163/LMG21_2_jpeg-3084480.JPG View Quote Pretty nice. I really dig that bipod. |
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Originally Posted By sandboxmedic: Long handguard cut down, long rail section attached? Honestly, if you're using a heavy barrel how much impact shift are you expecting and, if you're employing it as an RPK style weapon, does it matter enough to make a difference? If you're expecting it to fill some sort of DM role too then yeah, I can see addressing it, otherwise I wouldn't bother. JMHO View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By sandboxmedic: Originally Posted By castlebravo84: Anyone figured out a way to cantilever mount a bipod out past the front of the handguard without attaching it to the barrel? Long handguard cut down, long rail section attached? Honestly, if you're using a heavy barrel how much impact shift are you expecting and, if you're employing it as an RPK style weapon, does it matter enough to make a difference? If you're expecting it to fill some sort of DM role too then yeah, I can see addressing it, otherwise I wouldn't bother. JMHO That's exactly what I'm thinking. I also want it to be suppressed with a barrel length of 14.5" to keep overall length down, and I want the bipod mounted under the can somehow rather than behind the muzzle, preferably with a QD mechanism so it can be removed to use the gun in the role of a carbine as well. |
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Why do you want it suppressed?
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Originally Posted By castlebravo84: That's exactly what I'm thinking. I also want it to be suppressed with a barrel length of 14.5" to keep overall length down, and I want the bipod mounted under the can somehow rather than behind the muzzle, preferably with a QD mechanism so it can be removed to use the gun in the role of a carbine as well. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By castlebravo84: Originally Posted By sandboxmedic: Originally Posted By castlebravo84: Anyone figured out a way to cantilever mount a bipod out past the front of the handguard without attaching it to the barrel? Long handguard cut down, long rail section attached? Honestly, if you're using a heavy barrel how much impact shift are you expecting and, if you're employing it as an RPK style weapon, does it matter enough to make a difference? If you're expecting it to fill some sort of DM role too then yeah, I can see addressing it, otherwise I wouldn't bother. JMHO That's exactly what I'm thinking. I also want it to be suppressed with a barrel length of 14.5" to keep overall length down, and I want the bipod mounted under the can somehow rather than behind the muzzle, preferably with a QD mechanism so it can be removed to use the gun in the role of a carbine as well. Gotcha, but I think you've gotten away from the idea of the RPK concept at that point. The new RPK-16 is available with a 16" barrel but it's basically a different gun (interchangeable barrels for starters, faster rate of fire, etc) than the older RPKs. The AR-RPK, as I understand it from watching Brent whatever and the Klein videos, purposefully uses the longer barrel to get everything they can out of the 5.56 round along with the heavier barrel to support a higher rate of fire (especially with the binary/forced reset triggers) to allow it to be used in the fire suppression/fire support role. In your shoes, I would probably look at a having a full length hanguard milled down to the size you want. Again, just my opinion. |
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Originally Posted By sandboxmedic: Gotcha, but I think you've gotten away from the idea of the RPK concept at that point. The new RPK-16 is available with a 16" barrel but it's basically a different gun (interchangeable barrels for starters, faster rate of fire, etc) than the older RPKs. The AR-RPK, as I understand it from watching Brent whatever and the Klein videos, purposefully uses the longer barrel to get everything they can out of the 5.56 round along with the heavier barrel to support a higher rate of fire (especially with the binary/forced reset triggers) to allow it to be used in the fire suppression/fire support role. In your shoes, I would probably look at a having a full length hanguard milled down to the size you want. Again, just my opinion. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By sandboxmedic: Originally Posted By castlebravo84: Originally Posted By sandboxmedic: Originally Posted By castlebravo84: Anyone figured out a way to cantilever mount a bipod out past the front of the handguard without attaching it to the barrel? Long handguard cut down, long rail section attached? Honestly, if you're using a heavy barrel how much impact shift are you expecting and, if you're employing it as an RPK style weapon, does it matter enough to make a difference? If you're expecting it to fill some sort of DM role too then yeah, I can see addressing it, otherwise I wouldn't bother. JMHO That's exactly what I'm thinking. I also want it to be suppressed with a barrel length of 14.5" to keep overall length down, and I want the bipod mounted under the can somehow rather than behind the muzzle, preferably with a QD mechanism so it can be removed to use the gun in the role of a carbine as well. Gotcha, but I think you've gotten away from the idea of the RPK concept at that point. The new RPK-16 is available with a 16" barrel but it's basically a different gun (interchangeable barrels for starters, faster rate of fire, etc) than the older RPKs. The AR-RPK, as I understand it from watching Brent whatever and the Klein videos, purposefully uses the longer barrel to get everything they can out of the 5.56 round along with the heavier barrel to support a higher rate of fire (especially with the binary/forced reset triggers) to allow it to be used in the fire suppression/fire support role. In your shoes, I would probably look at a having a full length hanguard milled down to the size you want. Again, just my opinion. I get where they were going with the concept, but I would be already be getting 750yd supersonic out of a 14.5" with my preferred 77gr TMK load, and going to a 20" would add less than 100yd to that. I think a suppressed 14.5" with a heavy profile barrel and a bipod extended out far enough to provide the same stability might be a good option. A long handguard wide enough to tuck the suppressor might work, maybe with an aero m4e1 upper and their 16.6" handguard. Another thing I'm looking at is the area 419 12" arca rail if I could cantilever mount one. |
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I'm interested in seeing what you come up with, I like the idea.
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I don't think anyone makes a barrel with the following specs:
20" HBAR CHF CMV Mil-spec steel Chrome Lined 5.56 NATO chamber There is always one spec off......... |
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Say you went 18". For this hot, dirty, heavy use application, would you go mid or rifle length on the gas?
The mid has more dwell time and might be more reliable when things get dirty. The rifle length gas tube would probably take longer to get super hot/fail. |
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Originally Posted By The_Five_Elements: I don't think anyone makes a barrel with the following specs: 20" HBAR CHF CMV Mil-spec steel Chrome Lined 5.56 NATO chamber There is always one spec off......... View Quote https://www.spikestactical.com/collections/barrels/5-56-barrel-hbar-20/ She's pricey. ETA: disregard, not CHF |
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Originally Posted By The_Five_Elements: Say you went 18". For this hot, dirty, heavy use application, would you go mid or rifle length on the gas? The mid has more dwell time and might be more reliable when things get dirty. The rifle length gas tube would probably take longer to get super hot/fail. View Quote Based off my experience with a rifle gas dissipator, rarely cleaning it, and 1,000 rounds of steel tula, and zero issues, I'd get a rifle gas barrel that is hair softer shooting. If you're worried about the gas tube, kind of like me, but mostly for the lulz, you can get a nitrided gas tube for ~$14 for that little bit of extra heat durability. |
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Originally Posted By SuperStormBryan: Based off my experience with a rifle gas dissipator, rarely cleaning it, and 1,000 rounds of steel tula, and zero issues, I'd get a rifle gas barrel that is hair softer shooting. If you're worried about the gas tube, kind of like me, but mostly for the lulz, you can get a nitrided gas tube for ~$14 for that little bit of extra heat durability. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By SuperStormBryan: Originally Posted By The_Five_Elements: Say you went 18". For this hot, dirty, heavy use application, would you go mid or rifle length on the gas? The mid has more dwell time and might be more reliable when things get dirty. The rifle length gas tube would probably take longer to get super hot/fail. Based off my experience with a rifle gas dissipator, rarely cleaning it, and 1,000 rounds of steel tula, and zero issues, I'd get a rifle gas barrel that is hair softer shooting. If you're worried about the gas tube, kind of like me, but mostly for the lulz, you can get a nitrided gas tube for ~$14 for that little bit of extra heat durability. Isn't the gas tube supposed to be essentially a fusible link? I seem to recall reading one of the engineering type here describing it as essentially the weak link that would fail before you damaged the bolt. IIRC, it wasn't a ton of full auto dumps before it failed but it was still a lot more than anything anyone other than some middle eastern or african fighter or wedding party guest would be doing. Here's one thread I found: https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/How_many_sustained_rounds_fired_full_auto_before_an_M16_M4__gas_tube_fails_/5-1830154/ |
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Originally Posted By sandboxmedic: Isn't the gas tube supposed to be essentially a fusible link? I seem to recall reading one of the engineering type here describing it as essentially the weak link that would fail before you damaged the bolt. IIRC, it wasn't a ton of full auto dumps before it failed but it was still a lot more than anything anyone other than some middle eastern or african fighter or wedding party guest would be doing. Here's one thread I found: https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/How_many_sustained_rounds_fired_full_auto_before_an_M16_M4__gas_tube_fails_/5-1830154/ View Quote My understanding is the concern was splitting the barrel just behind the gas block with the old thin A1 profile barrels. I don't have that concern with a heavy barrel. Another understanding of mine, is that the gas tube design was originally the more durable straight tube. End of the day, for me at least, right now at least, is that I'm not going cyclic for 10 mags. I intend it to be high volume, sustained for a long duration, but nothing even the standard tube shouldn't be able to handle. |
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Originally Posted By sandboxmedic: Isn't the gas tube supposed to be essentially a fusible link? I seem to recall reading one of the engineering type here describing it as essentially the weak link that would fail before you damaged the bolt. IIRC, it wasn't a ton of full auto dumps before it failed but it was still a lot more than anything anyone other than some middle eastern or african fighter or wedding party guest would be doing. Here's one thread I found: https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/How_many_sustained_rounds_fired_full_auto_before_an_M16_M4__gas_tube_fails_/5-1830154/ View Quote I just want a 20A fuse, not a 10A |
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If anyone is wanting a RPK, Zastava just announced at SHOT the M72 PRK.
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De Oppresso Liber
Iraq: 91,03,04,05,06,08,09,15,16,22’&23' Afghanistan: 09,10,11',14',17',18',19',20'&21' |
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