Cant tell if pre button reaming problem after pilot drilling, or something during button rifling instead.

But will tell you, the barrel was never air gauged after it was rifled.

If that is at end of leade, then reamer was not run with a floating reaming holder/barrel bore was not running true in chuck, and why it left the step since chamber reamer did not run true to bore line.
So barrel needs to go back/would not run a suppressor on it, since the bullet smearing at rifling engagement is going to be a mess/ may not be stabilized in the first place with correct full engagement to the rifling in the first place.

First off, seeing a lot of leading in the barrel at the chamber end, hence leading at the last of chamber cut, the shoulder area leading, and the copper fouling at the start of the lead area that has not been removed through correct cleaning of the shot barrel as well.

As for what I see (even with the copper and lead fouling at the chamber end), standard lower production button rifling chatter (look at a Douglas air gauged barrel to see what great button rifling can be), and let just say not the best chamber reaming as well.  
So all on par for a lower priced production barrel, and you get what you pay for.

Now lets get back cleaning the barrel, and start off with something like Sweets that will dissolve the copper fouling, to first clean the lead and the bore of the barrel with bore brush from the muzzle side, to get the last of copper out of them.  Once you have the copper out by pushing clean patches that no longer come out blue, then switch over to a good lead remover with chamber brush, to clean the chamber to just past the chamber cut.  Once you think that you have the lead out of the chamber and it dry, put a slight amount of CLP on a new 30cal mop, and spin it deep chamber, pull it out and make sure that there is no black on the mop.

Now, go back and take your video of breach of the chamber, good rotation on the shoulder area, then end of chamber cut and slightly paste it at the leade/throat section of the barrel.


Yes, the chamber walls do not look smooth, can not tell if there is a step edge at the shoulder section or just a build of lead that has not been cleaned correctly, the chamfer of the end chamber cut does looked to be chambered but can not tell since way to much lead not cleaned there, and regarding throat/lead, seeing a huge Copper/brass smear from it not being cleaned out as well with bore brush.


Hence barrel should have been detailed cleaned with bore and chamber brushes before put into service to knock down most of the production edge burs,  and  once we an get fouling out of the way from the rounds put through it, now can tell what is abnormal production problems or not, that just barrel break in through live fire and cleanings will resolve in the end.

Lets do a quick try, with making sure that barrel nut is tight and not the problem as hand.

Solvent clean the barrel  with bore and chamber brushes, to get the lead and copper fouling out of it, then run the rig without a can.

How does the barrel print.  If spraying, then problem with the bore, and could be that the ID of the rifling is too large for the bullet in play.  At 1-7, should stabilize the bullet without problems.


If still good, then install the can with alignment rods to make sure supressor bores is in the line with barrel bore, and do some group testing next.

Yes, the can will change the poi, but rifle starts to spray, then its the can that is causing the problem and could be as simple at blast section on the can no having a large enough volume, and its effecting the bullet in flight in the can isntead.  Also, make sure can is clean, and check its bore after a few rounds are shot for any signs of copper on the baffles from bullet not staying centered in flight and starting to contact the baffle passages.