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Posted: 9/16/2006 10:12:24 AM EDT
[Last Edit: FALARAK]
[#1]
I am not quite sure what to say. That is exactly how my instructions say to do it: "Insert the mag catch on the left side of the receiver (side with all the words on it) and then install the mag catch spring from the right side. Then, grab the mag catch button and push it towards the mag catch. Then, spin the mag catch to tighten it. Stop when the mag catch threaded post is flush or nearly flush with the button:"
That's just a little too "captain safety" for me. 
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Posted: 9/16/2006 11:36:40 AM EDT
[Last Edit: fyeguy]
[#2]
Guess I missed that the first time around. Concentrating too much on the pictures and forgot to RTFM!
Nothing is quite as dorky as sitting in my garage with big yellow safety glasses on, but there's a whole lot of little tiny/sharp parts under lots of spring pressure!! |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 9/17/2006 12:50:36 PM EDT
[#3]
this is great, started giving me confidence to build one
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OR, USA
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Posted: 9/17/2006 1:54:13 PM EDT
[#4]
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PHL
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Posted: 10/12/2006 9:50:20 AM EDT
[#5]
Hi! I'm also a newbee. Is their any alternative for the action block barrel or barrel vise, for installing or removing barrels?
Thanks! Marco223 |
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Posted: 10/12/2006 12:02:57 PM EDT
[#6]
Those are the *correct* tools for the job. However, if you want to improvise.... if it is a flat top upper - you can use wood blocks in the vise, and clamp on the rail on one side, and the receiver bottom on the other. Several pros use this method. If it is an A2 - you can just use wood blocks, and try to be very careful not to mar or crush the upper receiver...... but you are on your own. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 10/17/2006 11:48:59 AM EDT
[#7]
Thank you, this all helped me build my first lower.
Nathan |
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Posted: 10/18/2006 12:08:41 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ilikelegs]
[#8]
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Posted: 10/24/2006 7:59:31 PM EDT
[#9]
This thread is worth the price of my membership!
Thanks! John |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 10/24/2006 9:18:01 PM EDT
[#10]
WOW this was sooo easy. The step by step for dummies approach worked like a charm. You guys did it right. I have never put one of these togather and it took me 25 mins. Thanks ARFCOM.
33 |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 10/29/2006 10:01:50 PM EDT
[#11]
I have a DPMS panther A4 would this troy product fit my AR. (IE: should i get the 7" or the 9" rail system)
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Posted: 11/1/2006 10:12:34 AM EDT
[#12]
The hole on the end of the gas tube that goes into the FSB,does that face up or down?
Thanks for the great info in this thread. And thanks in advance for your help with this gas tube question. |
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Posted: 11/1/2006 10:46:19 AM EDT
[#13]
Down. It faces the gas port in the barrel. |
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Posted: 11/2/2006 9:20:18 AM EDT
[#14]
Thanks
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TX, USA
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Posted: 11/2/2006 2:46:28 PM EDT
[#15]
Thank you so much for this guide. It is a lifesaver.
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NV, USA
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Posted: 11/4/2006 4:50:39 PM EDT
[#16]
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IN, USA
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Posted: 11/13/2006 4:54:38 PM EDT
[#17]
Thanks much! Due to these instructions I finally put the bare CMMG lower together that had been sitting in the back of my safe since the AWB expired. Worked like a champ! I even used vice-grips for the roll pins.
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MN, USA
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Posted: 11/14/2006 11:12:26 AM EDT
[#18]
I thought I would add one tip I have found helpful when gunsmithing at home.
Use some blue painters tape on or near where you are going to be pounding with tools or such so that you prevent or limit your "oops" marks. |
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MD, USA
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Posted: 12/6/2006 3:32:56 PM EDT
[#19]
thanks for the Lower Receiver directions, just assembled 2 in about an hour.
The vise-grip tricked worked great! |
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Posted: 12/14/2006 8:27:22 AM EDT
[#21]
No. The basic safety checks cover that. Worst case secnario, if something is missing or backwards, will be a simple weapons malfunction. Since pins typically will go either way, or only fit one way, they are hard to screw up. Springs - missing or backwards, most of the time will just cause a stoppage. The only example I know of... where there could be a safety issue, is that sometimes people forget the spring between the trigger bar and the disconnector... which has been said to cause some double-taps unintentionally. |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 12/15/2006 10:10:22 PM EDT
[#22]
Can you use a receiver designed for free float hand guard with a barrel with standard delta ring and standard handguards???
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TN, USA
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Posted: 12/15/2006 10:18:42 PM EDT
[#23]
Can you use a receiver designed for free float hand guard with a barrel with standard delta ring and standard handguards???
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FL, USA
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Posted: 12/17/2006 11:13:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: DRIFTING407]
[#24]
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TX, USA
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Posted: 12/18/2006 12:34:34 AM EDT
[#25]
My apologies if this has been mentioned before. How tight should we torque the castle nut to the lower? I know in your instructions you've mentioned the use of blue loctite and it's up to our discretion on using it. Also, I'm trying to install a sling mount is it advisable that i place the lower in a vice? Or can this be done without? TIA for the info!
Infinite1 |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 12/22/2006 11:09:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: DRIFTING407]
[#26]
so i have just finished assembling my RRA lower
people need to know how hard the forward pin is, and also make sure the names on the picture (the .gif one that is shaped like a box) MATCHES THE NAMES ON THE INSTRUCTIONS also the trigger hammer was hard there should be more instructions on the hammer for newbies , since newbies like me will be reading this but thanks anyways, great thread and thank you ar15.com |
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Posted: 12/28/2006 10:24:55 PM EDT
[#27]
Thanks FALARAK - your advice with the tape covered locking pliers was invaluable. Here's a pic of my POF lower completed with your instructions. - Shark
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MD, USA
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Posted: 12/29/2006 3:31:50 PM EDT
[#28]
what is a trigger hammer?
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FL, USA
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Posted: 1/2/2007 12:13:57 AM EDT
[Last Edit: DRIFTING407]
[#29]
here is my build
RRA Lower, RRA CAR 6 STock, RRA LPK   
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KY, USA
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Posted: 1/5/2007 2:59:13 PM EDT
[#30]
Nice How-To, and great pics as well. Most of this isn't new to me but I like the shaven Front sight Gas Block, very cool Idea.
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WA, USA
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Posted: 1/6/2007 11:29:29 AM EDT
[#31]
How do you tell the difference between the bolt catch spring and the disconector spring? Are they the same? I have a DPMS lower kit, with two springs that appear identical.
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Posted: 1/6/2007 1:50:26 PM EDT
[#32]
They are similar, but not identical. Please see the pic: www.ar15.com/content/guides/assembly/lower/lowerKit.gif
The disconnector spring is slightly larger in diameter, and typically will have one end "fatter" than the other end. This fatter end goes into the trigger, which serves to hold it in place. The bolt catch spring would simply fall out of the trigger. |
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Posted: 1/11/2007 2:38:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BridgerNY]
[#33]
This guide came in real handy for assembling my lowers and helping a friend change a barrel.
Anyway, I'm building my own upper now, and have a question about the flash suppressor. I'm installing a Phantom, do I need to line it up any particular way? Torque it? Just what do I do with the crush washer? Thanks! |
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Posted: 1/11/2007 2:52:10 PM EDT
[#34]
With a phantom - I use crush washers. With a crush washer - you simply tighten the muzzle device until it is snug, and times correctly.
As far as timing it - on the phantom - it really doesnt matter, but I typically will time it so the flats are vertical, and the uppermost facing part of the FH is solid - not an open vent. |
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USA
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Posted: 1/11/2007 3:13:58 PM EDT
[#35]
Question:
If you use a LaRue Rail with a Vltor MUR, you can't use both screws on the sides of the larue anti-rotation device. Would this be a problem? |
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Posted: 1/28/2007 9:06:05 AM EDT
[#36]
I also had trouble figuring this one out too. I started the button on and couldn't figure out how to get it in further. I must have read over the wording too quickly to notice that it said to spin the mag catch. I figured it out after a few minutes. Perhaps a picture of the mag catch getting spun would clear up any confusion. Very helpful when I put my lower parts kit in. Thanks |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 1/31/2007 5:32:22 PM EDT
[#37]
Great walkthrough. I went from a bag O' parts and a bare lower to a fully functioning lower in about an hour. No blood, sweat, or tears involved. Thanks for the help!
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Posted: 2/4/2007 8:57:07 AM EDT
[#38]
Thanks FALARAK! I completed my lower build using your excellent instructions. AR15 lowers ARE simple to assemble, but those instructions are needed the first time through. Thanks for a great resource.
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Posted: 3/3/2007 5:18:57 PM EDT
[#39]
thanks this was very helpful in putting together my lower now I on to buying the parts for my upper so my first build will be complete
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Posted: 3/8/2007 3:42:15 PM EDT
[#40]
Unless I missed it, I did not see anything about installing a Knights Armament M4 Free Float RAS.
I tried KAC's website but found no instructions and the tube that I bought has no instruction. Anyone have a guide for installing it (with photos would be great)? Thanks |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 3/11/2007 12:38:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Heavy_D]
[#41]
Great thread. It was very useful. I just finished assembling my lower yesterday. The taped vice grips was especially helpful.
I would just like to add one useful tip and ask a question. First the tip. If you are installing a tactical bolt catch and KNS anti-rotation pins, the FCG need to be installed before the bolt catch. ( I had to take mine apart an reassemble it.) Now for my question. Is there an easy way to make sure that the gas block is aligned correctly with he hole in the barrel? I am installing a DPMS gas block with the set screws and didn't know if there was a tip for indexing it so that the holes line up or not. Thanks. |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 3/11/2007 8:11:39 PM EDT
[#42]
Changed out my original FSB on my Rock River Car A4 for a low profile gas block. After struggleing to get the gas tube out of the FSB and not damaging the tube everything else went together nicely. My question is. How do you align the bottom hole of the gas block with the barrel gas port hole. I thought I had it but my bolt does not cycle when I fire the rifle. Is it a matter of taking the allen wrench supplied with the gas block to the range and just fine tuning the alignment until it cycles properly or is there a trick of some kind? Thanks.
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Posted: 3/11/2007 8:37:55 PM EDT
[#43]
Generally - I simply eyeball it. The hole in a block is typically larger than the gas port in the barrel - which allows for some degree of error. Some blocks are designed to bump against the barrel shoulder, but some are designed with the handguard ring in mind.... when you install a FF tube - most will remove the handguard ring, which acts as a spacer. Sometimes - you have to move the block away from the shoulder a bit to account for the ring. If I am installing a flat top gas block - I use a bubble level to get it parallel to the receiver. If I install a different kind of block, I will measure the depth of the hole in the block, and determine where it should be spaced. As for right/left - I simply eyeball it. In most cases, if you will space the block 1/16" off the barrel sholder, and eyeball it to get it vertical.... it works every time. I have yet to install one that didnt. |
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Posted: 3/11/2007 9:43:38 PM EDT
[#44]
I didn't do anything too fancy. This is my first AR. Haven't even shot it yet.
I downloaded all these instructions into a notebook that lays flat on the bench. Installed a Clark FF tube on my new CMMG upper. I ran into trouble with the sight pins. They were uncooperative. A very big hammer fixed the problem and the pins came out. However my punch gave it's life. Next problem was Clark's carbon fiber tube. The tube holes wouldn't index with the receiver. When tight, the hole wouldn't line up. When loose the hole lined up, but that's not an option. I used an endmill attachment on my Dremel and modified the holes to accept the gas tube. The whole job took an hour from start to finish. ARFCOM is a great resource. Thanks Before  After  ZM |
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MD, USA
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Posted: 4/12/2007 12:40:39 PM EDT
[#45]
So I'm about to have all the pieces to start assembling my AR, but I have a question that may or may not have already been asked. In order to connect the complete upper half to the complete lower, you need pins, correct? The question I have is are the pins included in the lower parts kit, do they come with the upper half, or do you have to order them? If it makes a difference I have a DPMS lower, DPMS LPK, and the Bushmaster upper half from the tax time sale.
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Posted: 4/12/2007 12:52:48 PM EDT
[#46]
The takedown pins come with the lower parts kit. They are the fat ones with the channel for the detent. In this picture, they are the pins at the bottom right; the takedown and pivot pin. 
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MD, USA
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Posted: 4/12/2007 12:57:57 PM EDT
[#47]
I was wondering if thats what they were. Thanks for the response.
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OH, USA
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Posted: 4/13/2007 5:43:19 PM EDT
[#48]
Do yourself a favour, use blue masking tape... no after assy munge to scrub off.
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USA
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Posted: 4/18/2007 3:52:44 PM EDT
[#49]
One question... I've got a Stag Lefty flat top upper. To secure the upper in a vice, would it be a better idea to modify a action block with a dremel to accept the lefty receiver or would it be better to just turn the receiver on it's side and clamp the top and bottom using wood or plastic blocks between receiver and vice? I know a number of pro's have been said to secure flat tops sideways in vices, I'm just wondering if there are any disadvantages to this method. It does seem easier than modding an action block...
Thanks and great instructions! |
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Posted: 4/18/2007 4:04:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FALARAK]
[#50]
Just turn it sideways, like in my AR10 post on page 2. |
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