What is the go to oils/etc for precision stainless non chrome lined barrels. Thanks

https://www.ar15.com/forums/AR-15/Maintenance-andamp-Cleaning/7/

Same as the others. I like plain Hoppe's #9 and orange bottle oil.

First I only clean the BORE every two or three range sessions. Use a non PTFE based gun cleaner. Not Breakfree CLP. Preferably something that is a powder solvent only.

Then, only when group size increases, a copper solvent like Sweets used EXACTLY as reccomended. Don't use for regular cleaning. A foaming bore cleaner would be a second choice.

Some people swear by JB bore paste.  It is a mild abrasive. Only use if the above did not get everything. Don't use for regular cleaning. Perhaps once or twice during the life of tbe barrel.

Use a bore guide. Use a quality, coated, non segmented cleaning rod. This will eliminate big errors scratching your throat or bore.

For an AR15, I only use a bore snake to get crap that a chamber brush got into the throat. Use a powder solvent or gun oil on the bore snake. Only do 1 pass at the end of chamber cleaning if you use it at all. I don't use one on bolt guns.

If you strip the copper fouling from a barrel it will take 5-20 rounds to settle back down. If you just clean powder fouling, it will take 1-5 rounds to settle down.

For this reason,  I often do not clean the barrel or only clean the chamber and do a single pass with a boresnake. Then fire 1 round to clear the bore. This limits cold bore shot differences.

Over/impropper cleaning ruins more barrels than wear. More barrel life is wasted if you completely strip the gun to zero copper and have to shoot 20 rounds to get it to settle back down.

Just one perspective. Others will have different opinions.

+1, no difference in cleaning stainless barrel vs unlined, chrome lined, nitrided, etc.
And I agree with the above, over cleaning is just adding wear to barrel and a waste of time.

Stainless is NOT rustproof. My first stainless steel barrel was on a 7,62x39 and running surplus corrosive ammo. Didn't clean it correctly at first and while the barrel didn't get spots as fast as the bolt, it would have been eaten up if I hadn't started cleaning it properly for corrosive.

I have a Lilja barrel on my precision .223 Wylde chambered AR.   It is deeply sub MOA capable.  I have found Dan Lilja's advice on cleaning useful and follow it.

https://riflebarrels.com/support/centerfire-maintenance/

Stainless or not.  Always use a bore guide and don't use bronze bore brushes.

I use Shooters Choice Bore Cleaner and Barnes CR10 Bore Cleaner for years (when shooter copper bullets), but there are many others.

Buy a bore scope look for carbon rings at the chamber.

You can go crazy cleaning with a bore scope otherwise you're at the mercy of what the patch is telling you.

Don't overthink the material you're cleaning rather the material you're trying to remove.

From first hand experience I'll tell you with a neglected barrel hoppes #9 will take a lot of effort to remove carbon fouling.  I'm not saying anything is better because I've always used #9 and just recently acquired a bore scope.

The only other carbon cleaner I have and tested was bore tech eliminator and CLP neither work better or worse than #9.  I ordered some bore tech carbon remover and will test its effectiveness.

Really you should never let the bore get really bad I used to just wipe and oil for the longest time until I bought a borescope and checked my SR15 that was suffering from accuracy issues.

The barrel had a crazy carbon ring at the chamber and it took days to clean and once it was clean the accuracy returned.

Now I'm kind of OCD about my barrels being clean 1, because of the effort to remove fouling if left unchecked it egregious and 2. its earier to remove fouling when it's not left baked on for extended periods.