I recently ordered a complete upper from BCM and it arrived yesterday, so I decided to take it apart and learn how the parts like the bcg work and everything. I had also ordered a Hoppe's stainless steel rod and some patches for cleaning, and even though it was a brand new barrel I decided to test it just to see how it works. To my surprise the patches came out grey with a bit of black. I tried it several times, sometimes with CLP, and each time it came out grey, sometimes black. Is this normal for a new AR? The little plastic patch holder on the rod kept coming partially unscrewed as I pushed it down the barrel, I don't know if that had anything to do with it.

I cannot see the pics due to web proxy, but anyway:

Yes, I would expect a new barrel to be dirty in some regard, especially if they test fired it.

I would not use a stainless steel rod; that could scratch up the chamber or bore. Get brass or coated (such as a Dewey). Use a bore guide. Can also use one of the cleaning cables that you just pull through. A plastic jig for patch is asking for a problem. Should be brass so it doesn't break and become lodged in the bore.

ETA: I prefer a kit like this: https://www.wesellgunsforless.com/cproduct/2605/bushmaster-cleaning-kit-squeeg-e-22pc-22-12ga-remington

I prefer foaming bore cleaner as well. No point in a rod unless it's to clear an obstruction, imo.

ETA2: Been a long time since I looked up this stuff and realized there was something I hadn't considered with softer metal: that is the ability to pick up microabrasives in the rod material. I'm gonna walk back my statement on steel vs brass and maintain the idea of a Dewey coated if you insist on a rod.

I heard that stainless steel rods are a softer grade than the bore and don't scratch them, but needless to say I am definitely ordering some bronze jigs, lol.

I tried reuploading the photos.

https://imgur.com/a/ZTLZ4Fb

That's the idea, whether or not the metalurgy is on point is another question I guess; is the rod one piece or sectioned (screwed together)? The sectioned ones are what I'm thinking of as far as staying away from for actual cleaning. A coated cable does well. If using a rod, I prefer Dewey. All rods should be used with a bore guide and the cable systems work well w/o a bunch of big pieces to haul around. At this point I don't even bother with a rod except to clear obstructions, which are pretty rare. Between foaming bore cleaning and the cable cleaning kits, I don't get too assed out about cleaning. I don't even touch the bore until accuracy falls off.

maybe they oiled it before shipping.....the read question is how does it look after cleaning

Ask me how I know that you never done metalworking.

I did hear that you probably shouldn't use those 3 piece rods, so I got the Hoppe's one-piece stainless rod.  I also keep hearing you should use a bore guide, so maybe I'll get one of those too.

Stainless rod will do you just fine.
Remember clean from the breech, not the bore.

I run a brush with cleaner followed by patches until they aren't filthy, but a little dirty.
Doesn't have to be hospital clean.
How clean it does have to be depends on how OCD you are.

You'll find that when cleaning the bolt, the recesses where the locking lugs on the bolt go in, or the action, an air compressor is your friend.


RCA

I've bought new barrels so nasty inside that hoppes#9, Bore Tech Eliminator, carb cleaner, etc. wouldn't get them clean.  Only a pile o patches with JB's Bore Paste finally got them clean.

I'm okay with that because they shoot pretty darn good.

A bit of knowledge from my experience: QPQ or similar Salt-Bath-Nitriding leave a sooty residue from the manufacturing process and I consider it normal.

I just cleaned a New SHAW 300 HAM'R Barrel yesterday evening for the first time.

A Possum Hollow 300 HAM'R Bore Guide was used. Ordered Direct from Eric.
1.75" Cotton Patch saturated in Hoppes #9. Two through the Barrel. A couple Passes, "Chamber to Muzzle" with a Bronze Bore Brush. Remove Brush and pull the rod out for each Pass. Another Wet Patch, followed by a couple Dry Patch's.

All Three Wet patch's came out Dirty to some extent. By the second Dry Patch I was satisfied the barrel was clean enough to shoot.

I cleaned again as above every Five Shots. I plan to keep up this cleaning regiment through the first 50 rounds.  Possibly Longer.
I take my Cleaning Box to the Range, and clean the gun before heading home. That way it gets done, and not put back in the safe dirty.

I was using a Spear Point 30 Cal Jag.
Stainless Steel One Piece Rod with Ball Bearing Handle.
1.75" Square Patch's from Sinclair, now Brownell's. I bought Bags of them several years ago.
30 Cal Bronze Bore Brush.
Hoppes #9 stored in a Wide Mouth small Glass Jar. The lid is perfect to dip a clean patch in. The Jar is labeled Old Smokey and originally had some sort of a Flavored Moonshine in it, I believe. Pour out the beverage, use label remover to get the paper label off, and you have a much better Hoppes #9 Container than it originally comes in.

Bob R

It is unlikely that the barrel saw any test firings unless it came with a MOA guarantee and test target! Manufacturers will likely leave "mill water" which contains oil or run an oily patch through the barrel to help mitigate corrosion. The object there is to apply protectant and not necessarily clean. Yes, everyone should clean any new barrel before shooting and follow a regimented break in procedure. Google is full of those.....! I have almost completely stopped using cleaning rods and use the OTIS system of "pull through" flexible coated cable for tight fitting patches and brushes. And a good solid gun vice to hold everything securely. Some patches are really tough to pull through but clean really well. Good luck with your new barrel. :)

BCM test fires complete uppers. If you were unaware of that they post it right on their site.



RIF

BCM test fires every upper before they ship it. So yes. It'll be dirty because they test fire it, inspect it, then clean it before shipping it to you.

My advice though is to just run a soaked patch, dry patch, then go shoot it then you can really clean it. I find it much easier to clean after shooting it.