Recently ordered the 5D tactical jig and bit set. I will be using a Dewalt DWP611. Am I assuming correctly the the end mill it uses replaces the collet system and screws directly to the router?
Also is drilling the FCG hole with the 5/32 bit perfectly fine or is it better to drill undersize and then ream? I think I've read somewhere that the actual FCG hole is actually a little smaller than 5/32 (0.15625). Also with the jig is using the router ok for the FCG hole or would it be much better to use my drill press, a Nova Viking 83700, and use the jig as a guide. With the jig do I have to still worry about the bit wondering and need to use a spot drill bit first? I've been thinking of getting a precision collet for my drill press, will probably pick up a Llambrich 4LHG5 keyless precision chuck at some point in the future if not for this. I do still need to get a Mitutoyo dial indicator so I can double check the run out of the chuck my drill press came with.
And speeds. It sounds like for drilling aluminum I should want somewhere in the 2-300 rpm speed, which my drill press can go down that low. And only need WD40 out of the can as a lubricant? Is WD40 even actually a lubricant I thought it was actually technically a water displacer?
For milling I'm finding it difficult to find the correct RPM. It seems like maybe either 13 or 15k? The Dewalt has a variable speed of about 16k up to about 27k, so I'm assuming I should set it to the lowest speed? Since I am using the Dewalt as a mill I'm guessing I should just spray a lot of the WD40 between each pass since I have no way to really give it a constant stream of spray.

I don't really have much actual machining hands on knowledge, but I do watch a lot of This Old Tony and every single Clickspring video that is put out. :) And I have used my router for some woodworking projects. I understand what is going on pretty well I think just not much actual real experience.

Thanks! That review link is pretty helpful and answered a few things.

Go slow and be overly cautious.  Take the first one as a learning experience.  $40-60 for a lower is not the end of the world.

For the fcg i found that 5/32 is fine but it is better to have a good quality short jobber length drill and keep it as close to the collet as possible.  Avoid using a chuck.  You dont want it wandering at all.

For the safety i had all kind of issues with the hole being accurate which improved a lot by using an endmill vs a bit.  The bits for 3/8 are just too long and pull the work because of the sharp angle.  An Endmill which can plunge cut gives me a better result.

Use a drill press to drill all the FCG holes, including the safety.  This will minimize bushing wear and ensure the holes are perpendicular

If your safety detent doesn't seat all the way, clear the channel out with a hand twisted 1/8" bit - Aluminum gets in there. Other than that, I had zero problems with 5D stuff on a DWP611 - used ample actual cutting fluid, and hand drilled the side holes with no problem.