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Link Posted: 11/21/2019 8:51:25 AM EDT
[#1]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Hydra-shokz:

Thanks! It took a while to assemble with the URX4, but worth it.

I have a 11.5 Sionics barrel on it. I couldn't find a 11.5 DD. I'm happy with the barrel so far for the money, but still would have rather used a DD. Didn't measure OAL yet for the stamp. I doubt I'll ever do a 12.5, might as well do 14.5. Range time Friday!

https://i.ibb.co/fXmWpyh/urxnotch04.jpg
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Is that a Geissele LPK on that lower?
Link Posted: 11/21/2019 9:23:27 AM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Hydra-shokz:

Thanks! It took a while to assemble with the URX4, but worth it.

I have a 11.5 Sionics barrel on it. I couldn't find a 11.5 DD. I'm happy with the barrel so far for the money, but still would have rather used a DD. Didn't measure OAL yet for the stamp. I doubt I'll ever do a 12.5, might as well do 14.5. Range time Friday!

https://i.ibb.co/fXmWpyh/urxnotch04.jpg
View Quote
Nice.   Did you modify the receiver to get the URX to fit like that?    I built something very similar to yours, but am using a new DD 11.5 barrel with MK12 gasblock, and of course, I got a 1.5mm gap...KAC says its normal, but I'd rather have it tight.    I also went with a BCM upper....didn't come with that star on it though!

Link Posted: 11/21/2019 11:19:14 AM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By JLS81:
@EVR Rifle length for the win, likey!!
Cerakoted or rattle canned?
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@JLS81  RC on the backup gun but the AR10 is covered in my old standby;  EVRlasting Home-brew top-coat.

It's a secret blend of mysterious chemicals all no-doubt falling under the stinkeye of the Secretary for Environmental Protection/California Environmental Protection Agency. In a decade its use will probably warrant a 5 year stint in a Cali Environmental Re-Education Facility. Which is why I don't live in California.  

Actually, it's just high-gloss, hardware-store, oil-based tractor paint mixed with talcum baby powder to dull it and then blended for colors.  Best home-brew top-coat I've ever found for stuff like hard-use guns, shovels, Pulaskis and the like. Stuff dries TOUGH and withstands more chemical abuse than RC.  Used it for years on guns, shovels, picks, sledge hammers and such.  It's a fantastic surface coat on parkerizing and dull anodizing and if it does wear it can be of course retouched where needed.  In practice those coated with EVRlasting Home-brew don't much need to tho I have several RC'd AR's I really need to strip with acetone and re-coat with the better stuff as it is just a better paint. I don't even try to keep up with the wear on my RC's guns.  That stuff really is almost a temporary cover.

EVRlasting Homebrew must be kept out of actions and off bearing parts as it is thick and will cause binding and would no doubt chip off and muck things up inside the gun action, but then the same applies with RC.

Here's a typical comparison of guns coated with RC and my stuff.  Both have been used under pretty rigorous conditions.

Typical RC wear which occurs quite quickly if the gun is used at all and bubs on body, rucksack, etc.  As you can see basically all the high spots get wiped clear of the topcoat:



EVRlasting Home-Brew:

Link Posted: 11/21/2019 1:12:00 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M-4matus:

Is that a Geissele LPK on that lower?
View Quote
Yup. It's my new favorite for my expensive builds. I really like the Posi-Snap safeties. I don't like the looks of their trigger guards for some reason so KAC.
Link Posted: 11/21/2019 1:23:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Hydra-shokz] [#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By JohnnyUtah427:

Nice.   Did you modify the receiver to get the URX to fit like that?    I built something very similar to yours, but am using a new DD 11.5 barrel with MK12 gasblock, and of course, I got a 1.5mm gap...KAC says its normal, but I'd rather have it tight.    I also went with a BCM upper....didn't come with that star on it though!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49038984922_256f8890fa_b.jpg
View Quote
So the deal with the URX4 is basically the luck of the draw with your upper receiver. Having a few on hand increases your chances. I got lucky, it was really close. I removed some material from the barrel extension on a lapping plate. Then I used a Brownells lapping tool to make sure it was squared up. Came out perfect with about 85ftlbs of torque. The feed ramps are perfectly flush inside the receiver. I can only get 1 peice of paper between the upper and the rail. Came out great, IMO.
Link Posted: 11/21/2019 3:09:25 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Hydra-shokz:

So the deal with the URX4 is basically the luck of the draw with your upper receiver. Having a few on hand increases your chances. I got lucky, it was really close. I removed some material from the barrel extension on a lapping plate. Then I used a Brownells lapping tool to make sure it was squared up. Came out perfect with about 85ftlbs of torque. The feed ramps are perfectly flush inside the receiver. I can only get 1 peice of paper between the upper and the rail. Came out great, IMO.
View Quote
Yeah, I had an upper to use with a URX4 and when I went to install it, it lined up on the furthest possible spot, so I needed the maximum amount of shims. It just looked silly. I had another stripped upper laying around, so I tried that and it lined up much better, so I just used that. There is still a gap, but it's tiny.

To be honest, even the URX3/3.1s have that issue because the rail has to be timed correctly, even if it doesn't have to be torqued. I have one 3.1 that hand tightened to the perfect position. There is ZERO gap between the rail and the upper. But others hand-tighten too far, so you have to back it off some to get it to line up, which creates a gap. If the rail hand-tightened to ALMOST timed correctly but you can't get it there, you'd have to back it off almost the full turn which would create the largest possible gap.
Link Posted: 11/22/2019 12:35:05 AM EDT
[Last Edit: M-4matus] [#8]
I just received this URGI today.  Not quite done, but this could be my second all around rig. I still need to swap out the pistol grip for and FDE grip and the light for an FDE M600 with Cloud Defense/ST-07 tape switch.  I just had this light as an extra.

" />
Link Posted: 11/22/2019 1:54:25 AM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M-4matus:
I just received this URGI today.  Not quite done, but this could be my second all around rig. I still need to swap out the pistol grip for and FDE grip and the light for an FDE M600 with Cloud Defense/ST-07 tape switch.  I just had this light as an extra.

https://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l608/M-4matus/IMG_20191121_231446_zpsiexic7c2.jpg" target="_blank">https://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l608/M-4matus/IMG_20191121_231446_zpsiexic7c2.jpg
View Quote
Looks good!
Link Posted: 11/22/2019 7:53:02 PM EDT
[#10]
Thanks brother.  I'm looking for a Company who can anodize my Lower.  Does anyone know where Geissele has theirs done or of a company that has a good reputation.  I do understand this DDC color do not always come out exactly the same shade, but I want a good finish and as close as possible to Geissele DDC.  Any tips would be great.  Thanks.
Link Posted: 11/22/2019 11:43:59 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By EVR:

@JLS81  RC on the backup gun but the AR10 is covered in my old standby;  EVRlasting Home-brew top-coat.

It's a secret blend of mysterious chemicals all no-doubt falling under the stinkeye of the Secretary for Environmental Protection/California Environmental Protection Agency. In a decade its use will probably warrant a 5 year stint in a Cali Environmental Re-Education Facility. Which is why I don't live in California.  

Actually, it's just high-gloss, hardware-store, oil-based tractor paint mixed with talcum baby powder to dull it and then blended for colors.  Best home-brew top-coat I've ever found for stuff like hard-use guns, shovels, Pulaskis and the like. Stuff dries TOUGH and withstands more chemical abuse than RC.  Used it for years on guns, shovels, picks, sledge hammers and such.  It's a fantastic surface coat on parkerizing and dull anodizing and if it does wear it can be of course retouched where needed.  In practice those coated with EVRlasting Home-brew don't much need to tho I have several RC'd AR's I really need to strip with acetone and re-coat with the better stuff as it is just a better paint. I don't even try to keep up with the wear on my RC's guns.  That stuff really is almost a temporary cover.

EVRlasting Homebrew must be kept out of actions and off bearing parts as it is thick and will cause binding and would no doubt chip off and muck things up inside the gun action, but then the same applies with RC.

Here's a typical comparison of guns coated with RC and my stuff.  Both have been used under pretty rigorous conditions.

Typical RC wear which occurs quite quickly if the gun is used at all and bubs on body, rucksack, etc.  As you can see basically all the high spots get wiped clear of the topcoat:

https://i.postimg.cc/1zr5Q3c2/Range-Day12172016320and-PSA-084-800x450.jpg

EVRlasting Home-Brew:

https://i.postimg.cc/rpNRNzbh/Charging-Handle-AR1003042017-020.jpg
View Quote
Any particular brand of paint that works best? I'm going have a little art weekend. Thanks for the inspiration!
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 12:11:16 AM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By wyoak41:
Any particular brand of paint that works best? I'm going have a little art weekend. Thanks for the inspiration!
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By wyoak41:
Originally Posted By EVR:

@JLS81  RC on the backup gun but the AR10 is covered in my old standby;  EVRlasting Home-brew top-coat.

It's a secret blend of mysterious chemicals all no-doubt falling under the stinkeye of the Secretary for Environmental Protection/California Environmental Protection Agency. In a decade its use will probably warrant a 5 year stint in a Cali Environmental Re-Education Facility. Which is why I don't live in California.  

Actually, it's just high-gloss, hardware-store, oil-based tractor paint mixed with talcum baby powder to dull it and then blended for colors.  Best home-brew top-coat I've ever found for stuff like hard-use guns, shovels, Pulaskis and the like. Stuff dries TOUGH and withstands more chemical abuse than RC.  Used it for years on guns, shovels, picks, sledge hammers and such.  It's a fantastic surface coat on parkerizing and dull anodizing and if it does wear it can be of course retouched where needed.  In practice those coated with EVRlasting Home-brew don't much need to tho I have several RC'd AR's I really need to strip with acetone and re-coat with the better stuff as it is just a better paint. I don't even try to keep up with the wear on my RC's guns.  That stuff really is almost a temporary cover.

EVRlasting Homebrew must be kept out of actions and off bearing parts as it is thick and will cause binding and would no doubt chip off and muck things up inside the gun action, but then the same applies with RC.

Here's a typical comparison of guns coated with RC and my stuff.  Both have been used under pretty rigorous conditions.

Typical RC wear which occurs quite quickly if the gun is used at all and bubs on body, rucksack, etc.  As you can see basically all the high spots get wiped clear of the topcoat:

https://i.postimg.cc/1zr5Q3c2/Range-Day12172016320and-PSA-084-800x450.jpg

EVRlasting Home-Brew:

https://i.postimg.cc/rpNRNzbh/Charging-Handle-AR1003042017-020.jpg
Any particular brand of paint that works best? I'm going have a little art weekend. Thanks for the inspiration!
I've used a variety.  Rustoleum oil-based and other store brands seem to work well. has to be oil base and it goes by a number of names, but "tractor paints" seems to be common.  use yellow and just a spot of black in it to make olive drab.  use talcum baby powder and i can't give you the exact recipe but you use way more than you might think in order to really dull it.  we have a low humidity here so it dried fast, but in really wet areas it might take a long time.  i remember in jersey it seemed like it took weeks for a oilbased brushon paint to really harden.

to make the camo mottled effect I wad up tufts of paper towel and daub over the base layer.
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 2:47:49 AM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By EVR:
I've used a variety.  Rustoleum oil-based and other store brands seem to work well. has to be oil base and it goes by a number of names, but "tractor paints" seems to be common.  use yellow and just a spot of black in it to make olive drab.  use talcum baby powder and i can't give you the exact recipe but you use way more than you might think in order to really dull it.  we have a low humidity here so it dried fast, but in really wet areas it might take a long time.  i remember in jersey it seemed like it took weeks for a oilbased brushon paint to really harden.

to make the camo mottled effect I wad up tufts of paper towel and daub over the base layer.
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Originally Posted By EVR:
Originally Posted By wyoak41:
Originally Posted By EVR:

@JLS81  RC on the backup gun but the AR10 is covered in my old standby;  EVRlasting Home-brew top-coat.

It's a secret blend of mysterious chemicals all no-doubt falling under the stinkeye of the Secretary for Environmental Protection/California Environmental Protection Agency. In a decade its use will probably warrant a 5 year stint in a Cali Environmental Re-Education Facility. Which is why I don't live in California.  

Actually, it's just high-gloss, hardware-store, oil-based tractor paint mixed with talcum baby powder to dull it and then blended for colors.  Best home-brew top-coat I've ever found for stuff like hard-use guns, shovels, Pulaskis and the like. Stuff dries TOUGH and withstands more chemical abuse than RC.  Used it for years on guns, shovels, picks, sledge hammers and such.  It's a fantastic surface coat on parkerizing and dull anodizing and if it does wear it can be of course retouched where needed.  In practice those coated with EVRlasting Home-brew don't much need to tho I have several RC'd AR's I really need to strip with acetone and re-coat with the better stuff as it is just a better paint. I don't even try to keep up with the wear on my RC's guns.  That stuff really is almost a temporary cover.

EVRlasting Homebrew must be kept out of actions and off bearing parts as it is thick and will cause binding and would no doubt chip off and muck things up inside the gun action, but then the same applies with RC.

Here's a typical comparison of guns coated with RC and my stuff.  Both have been used under pretty rigorous conditions.

Typical RC wear which occurs quite quickly if the gun is used at all and bubs on body, rucksack, etc.  As you can see basically all the high spots get wiped clear of the topcoat:

https://i.postimg.cc/1zr5Q3c2/Range-Day12172016320and-PSA-084-800x450.jpg

EVRlasting Home-Brew:

https://i.postimg.cc/rpNRNzbh/Charging-Handle-AR1003042017-020.jpg
Any particular brand of paint that works best? I'm going have a little art weekend. Thanks for the inspiration!
I've used a variety.  Rustoleum oil-based and other store brands seem to work well. has to be oil base and it goes by a number of names, but "tractor paints" seems to be common.  use yellow and just a spot of black in it to make olive drab.  use talcum baby powder and i can't give you the exact recipe but you use way more than you might think in order to really dull it.  we have a low humidity here so it dried fast, but in really wet areas it might take a long time.  i remember in jersey it seemed like it took weeks for a oilbased brushon paint to really harden.

to make the camo mottled effect I wad up tufts of paper towel and daub over the base layer.
And for the anadozizing, anyone have any info on that?  Geissele DDC
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 9:17:47 AM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M-4matus:

And for the anadozizing, anyone have any info on that?  Geissele DDC
View Quote
I have been considering using Outlaw Anodizing to tanodize a set. Can't remember which thread I saw it in, but it looked great.
Outlaw Anodizing
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 9:58:00 AM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By EVR:

@JLS81  RC on the backup gun but the AR10 is covered in my old standby;  EVRlasting Home-brew top-coat.

It's a secret blend of mysterious chemicals all no-doubt falling under the stinkeye of the Secretary for Environmental Protection/California Environmental Protection Agency. In a decade its use will probably warrant a 5 year stint in a Cali Environmental Re-Education Facility. Which is why I don't live in California.  

Actually, it's just high-gloss, hardware-store, oil-based tractor paint mixed with talcum baby powder to dull it and then blended for colors.  Best home-brew top-coat I've ever found for stuff like hard-use guns, shovels, Pulaskis and the like. Stuff dries TOUGH and withstands more chemical abuse than RC.  Used it for years on guns, shovels, picks, sledge hammers and such.  It's a fantastic surface coat on parkerizing and dull anodizing and if it does wear it can be of course retouched where needed.  In practice those coated with EVRlasting Home-brew don't much need to tho I have several RC'd AR's I really need to strip with acetone and re-coat with the better stuff as it is just a better paint. I don't even try to keep up with the wear on my RC's guns.  That stuff really is almost a temporary cover.

EVRlasting Homebrew must be kept out of actions and off bearing parts as it is thick and will cause binding and would no doubt chip off and muck things up inside the gun action, but then the same applies with RC.

Here's a typical comparison of guns coated with RC and my stuff.  Both have been used under pretty rigorous conditions.

Typical RC wear which occurs quite quickly if the gun is used at all and bubs on body, rucksack, etc.  As you can see basically all the high spots get wiped clear of the topcoat:

https://i.postimg.cc/1zr5Q3c2/Range-Day12172016320and-PSA-084-800x450.jpg

EVRlasting Home-Brew:

https://i.postimg.cc/rpNRNzbh/Charging-Handle-AR1003042017-020.jpg
View Quote
Outstanding work @EVR
Thanks for the great feedback
NCScout over at brushbeater convinced the importance of camo up the rifles.
got a really nice rattle can blend on the Mac90 just have not touched the AR platform just yet.
Adios!
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 10:20:47 AM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By JLS81:
Outstanding work @EVR
Thanks for the great feedback
NCScout over at brushbeater convinced the importance of camo up the rifles.
got a really nice rattle can blend on the Mac90 just have not touched the AR platform just yet.
Adios!
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By JLS81:
Originally Posted By EVR:

@JLS81  RC on the backup gun but the AR10 is covered in my old standby;  EVRlasting Home-brew top-coat.

It's a secret blend of mysterious chemicals all no-doubt falling under the stinkeye of the Secretary for Environmental Protection/California Environmental Protection Agency. In a decade its use will probably warrant a 5 year stint in a Cali Environmental Re-Education Facility. Which is why I don't live in California.  

Actually, it's just high-gloss, hardware-store, oil-based tractor paint mixed with talcum baby powder to dull it and then blended for colors.  Best home-brew top-coat I've ever found for stuff like hard-use guns, shovels, Pulaskis and the like. Stuff dries TOUGH and withstands more chemical abuse than RC.  Used it for years on guns, shovels, picks, sledge hammers and such.  It's a fantastic surface coat on parkerizing and dull anodizing and if it does wear it can be of course retouched where needed.  In practice those coated with EVRlasting Home-brew don't much need to tho I have several RC'd AR's I really need to strip with acetone and re-coat with the better stuff as it is just a better paint. I don't even try to keep up with the wear on my RC's guns.  That stuff really is almost a temporary cover.

EVRlasting Homebrew must be kept out of actions and off bearing parts as it is thick and will cause binding and would no doubt chip off and muck things up inside the gun action, but then the same applies with RC.

Here's a typical comparison of guns coated with RC and my stuff.  Both have been used under pretty rigorous conditions.

Typical RC wear which occurs quite quickly if the gun is used at all and bubs on body, rucksack, etc.  As you can see basically all the high spots get wiped clear of the topcoat:

https://i.postimg.cc/1zr5Q3c2/Range-Day12172016320and-PSA-084-800x450.jpg

EVRlasting Home-Brew:

https://i.postimg.cc/rpNRNzbh/Charging-Handle-AR1003042017-020.jpg
Outstanding work @EVR
Thanks for the great feedback
NCScout over at brushbeater convinced the importance of camo up the rifles.
got a really nice rattle can blend on the Mac90 just have not touched the AR platform just yet.
Adios!
You are welcome.

Some time take a look at pix from the 1st Gulf War.  I remember watching that stuff on the news and noticing how personnel in desert camo were invisible at range but it was easy to pick out that "black stick" they were carrying, sometimes at very far distances in the desert.

It seems to me to be supreme military stupidity not to have spec's a basic flat weapon color other than black long ago.  Even a simple olive drab would suffice for numerous environments.

Seems like I remember something along these lines being ordered for new made weapons or intended to be?  Anybody have info here?

PS:  With the paint, my recommendation is that if you do this in the summer, not to immediately expose the thing to the bright hot sun as bubbles may rise up.  I let it sit for a day or so then lean it against the shop wall where the temps here will reach 125 or more.  Bakes on real well.

And.......make sure you degrease everything touched by the paint with acetone.  Absolutely no oil underneath the topcoat.

Finally, it's paint, so it can/will wear.  But it is a good strong protective layer if applied correctly. If a guy wants to be able to swap colors, RC is better as it is easier to remove.

And regarding that, I've read that ZIP-Strip will remove or damage anodizing, so if something needs to be stripped from the receiver, I don't think it is safe to use the regular paint strippers.
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 10:34:28 AM EDT
[#17]
Attachment Attached File


Come at me bro
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 11:13:56 AM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By EVR:

You are welcome.

Some time take a look at pix from the 1st Gulf War.  I remember watching that stuff on the news and noticing how personnel in desert camo were invisible at range but it was easy to pick out that "black stick" they were carrying, sometimes at very far distances in the desert.

It seems to me to be supreme military stupidity not to have spec's a basic flat weapon color other than black long ago.  Even a simple olive drab would suffice for numerous environments.

Seems like I remember something along these lines being ordered for new made weapons or intended to be?  Anybody have info here?

PS:  With the paint, my recommendation is that if you do this in the summer, not to immediately expose the thing to the bright hot sun as bubbles may rise up.  I let it sit for a day or so then lean it against the shop wall where the temps here will reach 125 or more.  Bakes on real well.

And.......make sure you degrease everything touched by the paint with acetone.  Absolutely no oil underneath the topcoat.

Finally, it's paint, so it can/will wear.  But it is a good strong protective layer if applied correctly. If a guy wants to be able to swap colors, RC is better as it is easier to remove.

And regarding that, I've read that ZIP-Strip will remove or damage anodizing, so if something needs to be stripped from the receiver, I don't think it is safe to use the regular paint strippers.
View Quote
@EVR I hear you on direct sun issue. when I rattle canned the MAC it was inside the garage in August so plenty nice and warm as my garage gets direct sunlight as the day is long.
**Noted on the degrease process**
Great commentary on the black rifle at distance too. Can you stick out like a sore thumb? YUP!!
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 11:15:16 AM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
@DoctorLove exceptional work!
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 12:49:29 PM EDT
[#20]
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Originally Posted By JLS81:

@DoctorLove exceptional work!
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Thank you. It has held up really well

Attachment Attached File


Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 6:03:00 PM EDT
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
I like that paint job!

How’d you do it and what did you use?
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 6:17:28 PM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By dday_1944:

I like that paint job!

How’d you do it and what did you use?
View Quote
Cerakote. FDE, desert sage and forget the other color. I used spray gun for the base and air brush for the pattern. It was a lengthy process and a pain
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 7:00:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Creature] [#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By JLS81:
Great commentary on the black rifle at distance too. Can you stick out like a sore thumb? YUP!!
View Quote
Also consider that a black rifle offers a skilled long-distance shooter/observer an oppurtunity to rapidly work out your distance using a ranging reticle...possibly only because of the black rifle you're carrying. A black rifle is an easily discernable object (with a known measurement). While you may be otherwise well concealed by your camouflaged outer garments, a black rifle, even at distance, will "stick out like a sore thumb" as previously mentioned. A painted rifle takes away a ranging cue, forcing a skilled shooter to use other nearby objects with known measurements: a nearby tire/rim, street sign, etc...to help with "good enough" ranging calculations.
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 7:01:09 PM EDT
[#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Cerakote. FDE, desert sage and forget the other color. I used spray gun for the base and air brush for the pattern. It was a lengthy process and a pain
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Originally Posted By dday_1944:

I like that paint job!

How’d you do it and what did you use?
Cerakote. FDE, desert sage and forget the other color. I used spray gun for the base and air brush for the pattern. It was a lengthy process and a pain
@DoctorLove  How does homebrew Cerokote wear/last? Abrasion?  Chemicals?
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 8:21:26 PM EDT
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By EVR:

@DoctorLove  How does homebrew Cerokote wear/last? Abrasion?  Chemicals?
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It is a permanent finish. I wouldn’t call it home brew

Attachment Attached File


I have been spraying for awhile now
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 8:30:23 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
It is a permanent finish. I wouldn’t call it home brew

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/324355/34E5E15A-6FF9-43BC-BD4F-40FE108E4ADC_jpeg-1171249.JPG

I have been spraying for awhile now
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Originally Posted By EVR:

@DoctorLove  How does homebrew Cerokote wear/last? Abrasion?  Chemicals?
It is a permanent finish. I wouldn’t call it home brew

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/324355/34E5E15A-6FF9-43BC-BD4F-40FE108E4ADC_jpeg-1171249.JPG

I have been spraying for awhile now
Gotcha.

Applied at home or professionally, how does it hold up?

I understand there are mixed reviews on it but don't know the details at all.
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 9:15:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: CouchCommando22] [#27]
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Originally Posted By EVR:

Gotcha.

Applied at home or professionally, how does it hold up?

I understand there are mixed reviews on it but don't know the details at all.
View Quote
I have found it to be extremely durable and I have yet to see a solvent the effects the finish. I shoot 100% suppressed and this particular rifle I have run hard. Many 2 gun comps and my own drills. Probably at least 6k rounds on it so far. They have since come out with a new formula that is even better. I can honestly say it holds up really well. I don’t fret if there is small gouge here and there. A rifle is a tool. There are much better applicators than me.

It is all in the prep and the detail to attention. Weighing the product and the quality of the spray gun and air brush. Prep is going to determine the outcome and the cleanliness of your booth. I have a buddy who is 10 times better than me. He does amazing work, but his prep area and booth something you would see at an auto body shop. Guy is just incredibly good

Cerakote was originally designed for industrial applications and auto industry. It is meant to hold up under high temps and withstand solvents and lubricants. They are constantly improving their product and stuff really is incredible
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 9:25:42 PM EDT
[#28]
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Nice! What upper\barrel brand?
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 9:31:33 PM EDT
[#29]
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Originally Posted By KnightWhoSaysNi:

Nice! What upper\barrel brand?
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I built the upper using all Aero Precision parts with a Ballistic Advantage barrel. Lower is PSA with Aero lower build kit. Kaw Valley 5.4 Oz buffer, Bootleg adjustable BCG and CMC 3.5 single stage.
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 9:42:37 PM EDT
[#30]
Second Rifle I've built. First one I've kept.

Link Posted: 11/23/2019 11:19:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Crogers23] [#31]
@CMCctx

It’s nice man. Honestly though, I have no experience with any other two stage triggers to compare it to, but the overall consensus seems to be that they are almost or just as nice as the Giesseles. I’m not sure if that’s the case, but if so, even if the Giesseles are better, I wouldn’t care enough to pay the going rate for one. The LaRue is definitely worth $80, but that’s as much as I’d be willing to pay for a fancy trigger lol. That’s just me. Oddly enough, I prefer just a well made milspec single stage. Schmid Tool is my favorite. Same trigger group BCM sales, though you can get them cheaper under other brand names.
I’ll probably stick the LaRue in my AR10 and put the Schmid that’s in it back in the BCM.

Best price I’ve found on the Schmid.

http://www.tomstactical.com/Toms-Tactical-AR-15-Enhanced-Nickel-Teflon-Trigger-Group_p_169.html
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 11:33:06 PM EDT
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
I have found it to be extremely durable and I have yet to see a solvent the effects the finish. I shoot 100% suppressed and this particular rifle I have run hard. Many 2 gun comps and my own drills. Probably at least 6k rounds on it so far. They have since come out with a new formula that is even better. I can honestly say it holds up really well. I don’t fret if there is small gouge here and there. A rifle is a tool. There are much better applicators than me.

It is all in the prep and the detail to attention. Weighing the product and the quality of the spray gun and air brush. Prep is going to determine the outcome and the cleanliness of your booth. I have a buddy who is 10 times better than me. He does amazing work, but his prep area and booth something you would see at an auto body shop. Guy is just incredibly good

Cerakote was originally designed for industrial applications and auto industry. It is meant to hold up under high temps and withstand solvents and lubricants. They are constantly improving their product and stuff really is incredible
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Originally Posted By EVR:

Gotcha.

Applied at home or professionally, how does it hold up?

I understand there are mixed reviews on it but don't know the details at all.
I have found it to be extremely durable and I have yet to see a solvent the effects the finish. I shoot 100% suppressed and this particular rifle I have run hard. Many 2 gun comps and my own drills. Probably at least 6k rounds on it so far. They have since come out with a new formula that is even better. I can honestly say it holds up really well. I don’t fret if there is small gouge here and there. A rifle is a tool. There are much better applicators than me.

It is all in the prep and the detail to attention. Weighing the product and the quality of the spray gun and air brush. Prep is going to determine the outcome and the cleanliness of your booth. I have a buddy who is 10 times better than me. He does amazing work, but his prep area and booth something you would see at an auto body shop. Guy is just incredibly good

Cerakote was originally designed for industrial applications and auto industry. It is meant to hold up under high temps and withstand solvents and lubricants. They are constantly improving their product and stuff really is incredible
+1
Link Posted: 11/24/2019 11:43:40 AM EDT
[Last Edit: M-4matus] [#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Crogers23:
@CMCctx

It’s nice man. Honestly though, I have no experience with any other two stage triggers to compare it to, but the overall consensus seems to be that they are almost or just as nice as the Giesseles. I’m not sure if that’s the case, but if so, even if the Giesseles are better, I wouldn’t care enough to pay the going rate for one. The LaRue is definitely worth $80, but that’s as much as I’d be willing to pay for a fancy trigger lol. That’s just me. Oddly enough, I prefer just a well made milspec single stage. Schmid Tool is my favorite. Same trigger group BCM sales, though you can get them cheaper under other brand names.
I’ll probably stick the LaRue in my AR10 and put the Schmid that’s in it back in the BCM.

Best price I’ve found on the Schmid.

http://www.tomstactical.com/Toms-Tactical-AR-15-Enhanced-Nickel-Teflon-Trigger-Group_p_169.html
View Quote
I was not at all impressed with the LaRue Triggers and I would consider myself a LaRue fan.  I have had 2, one early model and one recently produced.  They are not on the level with any Geissele Triggers I have used.  No way.  Especially when you consider that Geissele makes a trigger for every type of shooting you are ever going to do.  I have replaced all my triggers with geissele triggers except in my 2 LMT MARS Lowers which came with LMT 2 Stage Triggers.  I think the LMT is a pretty good duty trigger,  That being said, I have 8 different Geissele Triggers, some for hunting, benchrest, 2 gun and PDW.  I think the SD-E is my personal favorite.  They just have really really good triggers for anything you want to do with them.
Link Posted: 11/24/2019 12:04:40 PM EDT
[#34]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M-4matus:

I was not at all impressed with the LaRue Triggers and I would consider myself a LaRue fan.  I have had 2, one early model and one recently produced.  They are not on the level with any Geissele Triggers I have used.  No way.  Especially when you consider that Geissele makes a trigger for every type of shooting you are ever going to do.  I have replaced all my triggers with geissele triggers except in my 2 LMT MARS Lowers which came with LMT 2 Stage Triggers.  I think the LMT is a pretty good duty trigger,  That being said, I have 8 different Geissele Triggers, some for hunting, benchrest, 2 gun and PDW.  I think the SD-E is my personal favorite.  They just have really really good triggers for anything you want to do with them.
View Quote
The MBT isn’t bad, but no Geissele. I actually really like the RRA 3.5 two stage. More so than the LaRue
Link Posted: 11/24/2019 12:49:25 PM EDT
[#35]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
The MBT isn’t bad, but no Geissele. I actually really like the RRA 3.5 two stage. More so than the LaRue
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Originally Posted By M-4matus:

I was not at all impressed with the LaRue Triggers and I would consider myself a LaRue fan.  I have had 2, one early model and one recently produced.  They are not on the level with any Geissele Triggers I have used.  No way.  Especially when you consider that Geissele makes a trigger for every type of shooting you are ever going to do.  I have replaced all my triggers with geissele triggers except in my 2 LMT MARS Lowers which came with LMT 2 Stage Triggers.  I think the LMT is a pretty good duty trigger,  That being said, I have 8 different Geissele Triggers, some for hunting, benchrest, 2 gun and PDW.  I think the SD-E is my personal favorite.  They just have really really good triggers for anything you want to do with them.
The MBT isn’t bad, but no Geissele. I actually really like the RRA 3.5 two stage. More so than the LaRue
Right, I'm not saying the MBT is a bad trigger, it's just and $80 trigger.  Problem is, if you are used to Geissele triggers, forget it.
Link Posted: 11/24/2019 12:56:47 PM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
The MBT isn’t bad, but no Geissele. I actually really like the RRA 3.5 two stage. More so than the LaRue
View Quote View All Quotes
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Originally Posted By M-4matus:

I was not at all impressed with the LaRue Triggers and I would consider myself a LaRue fan.  I have had 2, one early model and one recently produced.  They are not on the level with any Geissele Triggers I have used.  No way.  Especially when you consider that Geissele makes a trigger for every type of shooting you are ever going to do.  I have replaced all my triggers with geissele triggers except in my 2 LMT MARS Lowers which came with LMT 2 Stage Triggers.  I think the LMT is a pretty good duty trigger,  That being said, I have 8 different Geissele Triggers, some for hunting, benchrest, 2 gun and PDW.  I think the SD-E is my personal favorite.  They just have really really good triggers for anything you want to do with them.
The MBT isn’t bad, but no Geissele. I actually really like the RRA 3.5 two stage. More so than the LaRue
I have a RRA in my .308 and it's so well broken in that I don't see it changing anytime soon.
Link Posted: 11/24/2019 4:42:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: veeklog] [#37]
Attachment Attached File

Attachment Attached File


My Colt SOCOM is my go to rifle

Attachment Attached File


Attachment Attached File


My other go to rifle is my 2000 registered Armalite lower (live in PRK) with a HK MR556 upper completely redone to HK 416 specs by IGF until the dude went insane
Link Posted: 11/24/2019 9:06:26 PM EDT
[#38]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M-4matus:

I was not at all impressed with the LaRue Triggers and I would consider myself a LaRue fan.  I have had 2, one early model and one recently produced.  They are not on the level with any Geissele Triggers I have used.  No way.  Especially when you consider that Geissele makes a trigger for every type of shooting you are ever going to do.  I have replaced all my triggers with geissele triggers except in my 2 LMT MARS Lowers which came with LMT 2 Stage Triggers.  I think the LMT is a pretty good duty trigger,  That being said, I have 8 different Geissele Triggers, some for hunting, benchrest, 2 gun and PDW.  I think the SD-E is my personal favorite.  They just have really really good triggers for anything you want to do with them.
View Quote
Yeah, I’ve heard everything from the LaRue being better to no where near a Geissele. Most seem to feel that the step up from LaRue to Geissele isn’t enough to justify the cost, but you’d think that there wouldn’t be so many shooters installing Giesseles if that was the case. I just don’t bench shoot, and don’t have enough long range ranges to shoot at in East TN, to justify the cost. I barely talked myself into getting the AR10 for the same reasons. Either way, in my opinion, the LaRue is an $80 trigger. I have no doubt that a trigger group could be made better.
Link Posted: 11/24/2019 9:32:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: EVR] [#39]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Crogers23:
Yeah, I’ve heard everything from the LaRue being better to no where near a Geissele. Most seem to feel that the step up from LaRue to Geissele isn’t enough to justify the cost, but you’d think that there wouldn’t be so many shooters installing Giesseles if that was the case. I just don’t bench shoot, and don’t have enough long range ranges to shoot at in East TN, to justify the cost. I barely talked myself into getting the AR10 for the same reasons. Either way, in my opinion, the LaRue is an $80 trigger. I have no doubt that a trigger group could be made better.
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Originally Posted By Crogers23:
Originally Posted By M-4matus:

I was not at all impressed with the LaRue Triggers and I would consider myself a LaRue fan.  I have had 2, one early model and one recently produced.  They are not on the level with any Geissele Triggers I have used.  No way.  Especially when you consider that Geissele makes a trigger for every type of shooting you are ever going to do.  I have replaced all my triggers with geissele triggers except in my 2 LMT MARS Lowers which came with LMT 2 Stage Triggers.  I think the LMT is a pretty good duty trigger,  That being said, I have 8 different Geissele Triggers, some for hunting, benchrest, 2 gun and PDW.  I think the SD-E is my personal favorite.  They just have really really good triggers for anything you want to do with them.
Yeah, I’ve heard everything from the LaRue being better to no where near a Geissele. Most seem to feel that the step up from LaRue to Geissele isn’t enough to justify the cost, but you’d think that there wouldn’t be so many shooters installing Giesseles if that was the case. I just don’t bench shoot, and don’t have enough long range ranges to shoot at in East TN, to justify the cost. I barely talked myself into getting the AR10 for the same reasons. Either way, in my opinion, the LaRue is an $80 trigger. I have no doubt that a trigger group could be made better.
No idea about the Geiselles. but I have 5 or 6 MBT's and they are awesome triggers.

Is the Geiselle better?

Maybe so, but I am a lowly MBT-user, so I have no idea, but id someone wants to give me one I'll be very happy to report on how it stacks up.  
Link Posted: 11/24/2019 11:37:43 PM EDT
[#40]
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
It is a permanent finish. I wouldn’t call it home brew

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/324355/34E5E15A-6FF9-43BC-BD4F-
40FE108E4ADC_jpeg-1171249.JPG


I have been spraying for awhile now
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Originally Posted By EVR:

@DoctorLove  How does homebrew Cerokote wear/last? Abrasion?  Chemicals?
It is a permanent finish. I wouldn’t call it home brew

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/324355/34E5E15A-6FF9-43BC-BD4F-
40FE108E4ADC_jpeg-1171249.JPG


I have been spraying for awhile now
Soon as I saw your card....makes me miss the Steak Out
Link Posted: 11/25/2019 2:24:04 AM EDT
[#41]
The cheap 165$ geissele triggers are better than the MBT. Everyone that has shot one of my rifles says a holyshit that trigger is nice. All geisseles.  I have traded out all but one of my SD3G's in favor of the SD-E.  Unless you are a highly skilled speed shooter, I wouldn't recommend the SD3G or S3G.  Not very good for accuracy, ,hard to anticipate the disconnect constantly.  As for SHTF Rifle, my trigger of choice is either the LMT 2 Stage or the Geissele SD-E.
Link Posted: 11/25/2019 2:46:30 AM EDT
[#42]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Crogers23:

Yeah, I’ve heard everything from the LaRue being better to no where near a Geissele. Most seem to feel that the step up from LaRue to Geissele isn’t enough to justify the cost, but you’d think that there wouldn’t be so many shooters installing Giesseles if that was the case. I just don’t bench shoot, and don’t have enough long range ranges to shoot at in East TN, to justify the cost. I barely talked myself into getting the AR10 for the same reasons. Either way, in my opinion, the LaRue is an $80 trigger. I have no doubt that a trigger group could be made better.
View Quote
I wouldn't say "most" say the step up isn't worth the cost.  I would say they are definitely worth the cost, especially when you consider Geissele has 20% discount sales like 6 times a year.  As for an aftermarket trigger is concerned, I have NEVER had a single issue with any of the 8 Geissele triggers I have, I have at least  30,000 rounds on Geisseles.  They are definitely as reliable as mil spec IMHO .  When you consider people are spending $400 on an Echo Trigger that you can't hit the broadside of a barn with so they can look cool running mag dumps, switch to a trained shooter running a Geissele SSA, SSA-E, SD-E, SD3G, SD-C, yeah pretty much any Geissele at half Echo speed and actually hitting all intended targets.  Geisseles are well worth the money.  Sorry if I'm getting testy, I have heard so much crap about spending money on Geisseles, then they try it and think different.  Side note, I switched my MBT out of my PredatOBR 76.2 for a Geissele Hi Speed National Match.  Groups went from a 1.1 MOA to a .7 MOA with 168 Black Hills
Link Posted: 11/25/2019 2:54:08 AM EDT
[#43]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
The MBT isn’t bad, but no Geissele. I actually really like the RRA 3.5 two stage. More so than the LaRue
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Originally Posted By M-4matus:

I was not at all impressed with the LaRue Triggers and I would consider myself a LaRue fan.  I have had 2, one early model and one recently produced.  They are not on the level with any Geissele Triggers I have used.  No way.  Especially when you consider that Geissele makes a trigger for every type of shooting you are ever going to do.  I have replaced all my triggers with geissele triggers except in my 2 LMT MARS Lowers which came with LMT 2 Stage Triggers.  I think the LMT is a pretty good duty trigger,  That being said, I have 8 different Geissele Triggers, some for hunting, benchrest, 2 gun and PDW.  I think the SD-E is my personal favorite.  They just have really really good triggers for anything you want to do with them.
The MBT isn’t bad, but no Geissele. I actually really like the RRA 3.5 two stage. More so than the LaRue
I haven't tried the RRA, whats the cost?   I was disappointed with the LaRue MBT.  I love LaRue I just feel like the MBT was a flop.  I guess I like light triggers with distinct resets.
Link Posted: 11/25/2019 8:48:27 AM EDT
[#44]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M-4matus:

I haven't tried the RRA, whats the cost?   I was disappointed with the LaRue MBT.  I love LaRue I just feel like the MBT was a flop.  I guess I like light triggers with distinct resets.
View Quote
The Schmid Tool 2 stage trigger is $65. They are fantastic triggers. Another option to toss in the ring

Schmid Tool 2 Stage trigger $65 shipped
Link Posted: 11/25/2019 10:28:42 AM EDT
[#45]


My simple Aimpoint on a 16" BCM Middy with Magpul MOE.

Magpul MSA, VFG, light mount and trigger guard
IKH sling plate
White Sound Defense FOSSA flash hider
B5 Bravo stock
DD LPK
Geissele G2S
BFG VCAS
TLR-2 HL not pictured
Link Posted: 11/25/2019 2:38:05 PM EDT
[#46]
Attachment Attached File


LaRue Upper/Lower build
NF NSX 1-4
Surefire can
Surefire light with Thorntail mount (now has pressure switch)
VTac Sling on Low-Pro mount
BCM handstop and rail covers
Link Posted: 11/25/2019 6:33:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: M-4matus] [#47]
Speaking of Geissele, here is my recently purchased URG-i Complete.  This will be my backup GO TO RIFLE, just got it Thursday.  She still isn't done but close enough for tryouts.  Eventually this will be a suppressed 10.3 SBR, a true confined space back up PDW.  I have other PDW's I could post ( MP5k- GHM9c- 300BLK Pistol) but I'm sticking to Rifles for this thread.  Anyway,  I was extremely impressed with the accuracy of the URG-i on my first sight in.  When you consider Geissele pretty much just cut their baby teeth building firearms, this rig is impressive.  Geissele never fails to impress.  It just seems like everything they touch turns to gold.

12 breakin shots taken with cleanings between every 3 shots, I then sighted in the Comp M5 @ 99.5 yards- Prone, Bipod, Sandbag, Comp M5 no magnifier, 77grn Black Hills MK262, 29*F., 35% humidity, 108 ft. above sea level.  I was simply doing a breakin and rough sighting the newly mounted Comp M5 so no bullseyes yet,  but damn impressive groups from a stock rifle that cost me $1,520.00.  Yes, I bought it during the Halloween discount and I did swap the receiver extension to DDC, added a few Geissele Lower parts upgrades and mounted a Geissele/Aimpoint Bundled Optic, I might have 26 into it.
" />
" /> 4 shot group and the left, 5 shot group on the right
" /> 3 shot group @ 99.5 yards
Link Posted: 11/26/2019 12:52:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: EVR] [#48]
Good shooting!!

I know you are breaking in the rifle, but FWIW, your post got me thinking.

In a "GoTo Rifle" thread I'd say the old SHTF/3 MOA Challenge is a better indicator of performance than bench accuracy.

One of the interesting things we learned in that Challenge was that the rifles that produce the best mechanical accuracy are not always {in fact, the test showed rarely} used to produce the best "field" results.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/3-MOA-All-Day--Position-Shooting-Association-Challenge-Have-a-Go-/5-1950750/
Link Posted: 11/26/2019 1:08:00 PM EDT
[#49]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 103:
I do not have a picture of it on hand, so placeholder.

Basic M4gery with a Colt 921 barrel, BCM upper, older Bushmaster lower (about to replace with an PSA M4A1 lower because why not), CMT lower parts (except for LMT selector), Colt BCG, CAR15 stock with zip-tied pad, KAC RAS2 (I still use a KAC VFG as a hand stop), ARMS 40L, Surefire 951 with a 400 lumen head, Gemtech G5, Noveske QD endplate, CQB front sling attachment, Blue Force Gear sling. One of these days I'll buy another Aimpoint for it, but I do a lot of shooting in the rain, and irons work better for me in that setting. Barrel was made in 1997 and has lots and lots of rounds through it. Still hits what I'm aiming at. I have never experienced a non-induced (for practice's sake) failure with the gun.
View Quote
Forgot to come back and post a picture:

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 11/26/2019 7:08:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: M-4matus] [#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By EVR:
Good shooting!!

I know you are breaking in the rifle, but FWIW, your post got me thinking.

In a "GoTo Rifle" thread I'd say the old SHTF/3 MOA Challenge is a better indicator of performance than bench accuracy.

One of the interesting things we learned in that Challenge was that the rifles that produce the best mechanical accuracy are not always {in fact, the test showed rarely} used to produce the best "field" results.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/3-MOA-All-Day--Position-Shooting-Association-Challenge-Have-a-Go-/5-1950750/
View Quote
No bud, I'm no benchrest queen.  This was laying in the frozen mud shooting off my bipod with a sock full of rice to squeeze under my pistol grip.  I think that 3MOA rule is an old school notion.  Plenty of battle ready MOA rifles out there nowadays, many tried and true.  Take KAC, LMT, well this URG-I fielded by Army SF, just to name a few.  Hell my MP5 shoots 2 MAO.  I'm saying this before I checked out your post.  I'm sure you are doing some badass sh** I'd be all about.  Just saying, I do not shoot benchrest.  Running my SPR out to 700 and crushing 10'' steel gongs, belly in the dirt.  I'll start shooting benchrest when I loose a limb.
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