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Originally Posted By Hydra-shokz: Thanks! It took a while to assemble with the URX4, but worth it. I have a 11.5 Sionics barrel on it. I couldn't find a 11.5 DD. I'm happy with the barrel so far for the money, but still would have rather used a DD. Didn't measure OAL yet for the stamp. I doubt I'll ever do a 12.5, might as well do 14.5. Range time Friday! https://i.ibb.co/fXmWpyh/urxnotch04.jpg View Quote |
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Don't tread on Me
NRA Life Member |
Originally Posted By Hydra-shokz: Thanks! It took a while to assemble with the URX4, but worth it. I have a 11.5 Sionics barrel on it. I couldn't find a 11.5 DD. I'm happy with the barrel so far for the money, but still would have rather used a DD. Didn't measure OAL yet for the stamp. I doubt I'll ever do a 12.5, might as well do 14.5. Range time Friday! https://i.ibb.co/fXmWpyh/urxnotch04.jpg View Quote |
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Originally Posted By JLS81:
@EVR Rifle length for the win, likey!! Cerakoted or rattle canned? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By JLS81:
Originally Posted By EVR:
https://i.postimg.cc/SKJ2PgPz/RANGEDAY01042015-Schneeschiess039-zps226b3b2f.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/SxQz6S7d/RANGEDAY01042015-Schneeschiess019-zpsa4dd0f56.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/y699Br8m/RANGEDAY01042015-Schneeschiess009-zps1bc52443.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/3wFJDKFj/Charging-Handle03042017-003.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/YSN5bwt2/Charging-Handle-AR1003042017-012.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/g2CjM8CY/Bait-Shooting-Arma-Lite-Ar1006132013045-zps62ef39d2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/q7sYfvC8/4-Range-Day-Gamecam01162017-AR10-358-800x600.jpg Cerakoted or rattle canned? It's a secret blend of mysterious chemicals all no-doubt falling under the stinkeye of the Secretary for Environmental Protection/California Environmental Protection Agency. In a decade its use will probably warrant a 5 year stint in a Cali Environmental Re-Education Facility. Which is why I don't live in California. Actually, it's just high-gloss, hardware-store, oil-based tractor paint mixed with talcum baby powder to dull it and then blended for colors. Best home-brew top-coat I've ever found for stuff like hard-use guns, shovels, Pulaskis and the like. Stuff dries TOUGH and withstands more chemical abuse than RC. Used it for years on guns, shovels, picks, sledge hammers and such. It's a fantastic surface coat on parkerizing and dull anodizing and if it does wear it can be of course retouched where needed. In practice those coated with EVRlasting Home-brew don't much need to tho I have several RC'd AR's I really need to strip with acetone and re-coat with the better stuff as it is just a better paint. I don't even try to keep up with the wear on my RC's guns. That stuff really is almost a temporary cover. EVRlasting Homebrew must be kept out of actions and off bearing parts as it is thick and will cause binding and would no doubt chip off and muck things up inside the gun action, but then the same applies with RC. Here's a typical comparison of guns coated with RC and my stuff. Both have been used under pretty rigorous conditions. Typical RC wear which occurs quite quickly if the gun is used at all and bubs on body, rucksack, etc. As you can see basically all the high spots get wiped clear of the topcoat: EVRlasting Home-Brew: |
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John 6:35; And Jesus said to them, I am the bread of life. He who comes to Me shall never hunger, and he who believes in Me shall never thirst.
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Originally Posted By JohnnyUtah427: Nice. Did you modify the receiver to get the URX to fit like that? I built something very similar to yours, but am using a new DD 11.5 barrel with MK12 gasblock, and of course, I got a 1.5mm gap...KAC says its normal, but I'd rather have it tight. I also went with a BCM upper....didn't come with that star on it though! https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49038984922_256f8890fa_b.jpg View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Hydra-shokz: So the deal with the URX4 is basically the luck of the draw with your upper receiver. Having a few on hand increases your chances. I got lucky, it was really close. I removed some material from the barrel extension on a lapping plate. Then I used a Brownells lapping tool to make sure it was squared up. Came out perfect with about 85ftlbs of torque. The feed ramps are perfectly flush inside the receiver. I can only get 1 peice of paper between the upper and the rail. Came out great, IMO. View Quote To be honest, even the URX3/3.1s have that issue because the rail has to be timed correctly, even if it doesn't have to be torqued. I have one 3.1 that hand tightened to the perfect position. There is ZERO gap between the rail and the upper. But others hand-tighten too far, so you have to back it off some to get it to line up, which creates a gap. If the rail hand-tightened to ALMOST timed correctly but you can't get it there, you'd have to back it off almost the full turn which would create the largest possible gap. |
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I just received this URGI today. Not quite done, but this could be my second all around rig. I still need to swap out the pistol grip for and FDE grip and the light for an FDE M600 with Cloud Defense/ST-07 tape switch. I just had this light as an extra.
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Don't tread on Me
NRA Life Member |
Originally Posted By M-4matus:
I just received this URGI today. Not quite done, but this could be my second all around rig. I still need to swap out the pistol grip for and FDE grip and the light for an FDE M600 with Cloud Defense/ST-07 tape switch. I just had this light as an extra. https://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l608/M-4matus/IMG_20191121_231446_zpsiexic7c2.jpg" target="_blank">https://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l608/M-4matus/IMG_20191121_231446_zpsiexic7c2.jpg View Quote |
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Thanks brother. I'm looking for a Company who can anodize my Lower. Does anyone know where Geissele has theirs done or of a company that has a good reputation. I do understand this DDC color do not always come out exactly the same shade, but I want a good finish and as close as possible to Geissele DDC. Any tips would be great. Thanks.
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Don't tread on Me
NRA Life Member |
Originally Posted By EVR: @JLS81 RC on the backup gun but the AR10 is covered in my old standby; EVRlasting Home-brew top-coat. It's a secret blend of mysterious chemicals all no-doubt falling under the stinkeye of the Secretary for Environmental Protection/California Environmental Protection Agency. In a decade its use will probably warrant a 5 year stint in a Cali Environmental Re-Education Facility. Which is why I don't live in California. Actually, it's just high-gloss, hardware-store, oil-based tractor paint mixed with talcum baby powder to dull it and then blended for colors. Best home-brew top-coat I've ever found for stuff like hard-use guns, shovels, Pulaskis and the like. Stuff dries TOUGH and withstands more chemical abuse than RC. Used it for years on guns, shovels, picks, sledge hammers and such. It's a fantastic surface coat on parkerizing and dull anodizing and if it does wear it can be of course retouched where needed. In practice those coated with EVRlasting Home-brew don't much need to tho I have several RC'd AR's I really need to strip with acetone and re-coat with the better stuff as it is just a better paint. I don't even try to keep up with the wear on my RC's guns. That stuff really is almost a temporary cover. EVRlasting Homebrew must be kept out of actions and off bearing parts as it is thick and will cause binding and would no doubt chip off and muck things up inside the gun action, but then the same applies with RC. Here's a typical comparison of guns coated with RC and my stuff. Both have been used under pretty rigorous conditions. Typical RC wear which occurs quite quickly if the gun is used at all and bubs on body, rucksack, etc. As you can see basically all the high spots get wiped clear of the topcoat: https://i.postimg.cc/1zr5Q3c2/Range-Day12172016320and-PSA-084-800x450.jpg EVRlasting Home-Brew: https://i.postimg.cc/rpNRNzbh/Charging-Handle-AR1003042017-020.jpg View Quote |
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Originally Posted By wyoak41:
Any particular brand of paint that works best? I'm going have a little art weekend. Thanks for the inspiration! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By wyoak41:
Originally Posted By EVR: @JLS81 RC on the backup gun but the AR10 is covered in my old standby; EVRlasting Home-brew top-coat. It's a secret blend of mysterious chemicals all no-doubt falling under the stinkeye of the Secretary for Environmental Protection/California Environmental Protection Agency. In a decade its use will probably warrant a 5 year stint in a Cali Environmental Re-Education Facility. Which is why I don't live in California. Actually, it's just high-gloss, hardware-store, oil-based tractor paint mixed with talcum baby powder to dull it and then blended for colors. Best home-brew top-coat I've ever found for stuff like hard-use guns, shovels, Pulaskis and the like. Stuff dries TOUGH and withstands more chemical abuse than RC. Used it for years on guns, shovels, picks, sledge hammers and such. It's a fantastic surface coat on parkerizing and dull anodizing and if it does wear it can be of course retouched where needed. In practice those coated with EVRlasting Home-brew don't much need to tho I have several RC'd AR's I really need to strip with acetone and re-coat with the better stuff as it is just a better paint. I don't even try to keep up with the wear on my RC's guns. That stuff really is almost a temporary cover. EVRlasting Homebrew must be kept out of actions and off bearing parts as it is thick and will cause binding and would no doubt chip off and muck things up inside the gun action, but then the same applies with RC. Here's a typical comparison of guns coated with RC and my stuff. Both have been used under pretty rigorous conditions. Typical RC wear which occurs quite quickly if the gun is used at all and bubs on body, rucksack, etc. As you can see basically all the high spots get wiped clear of the topcoat: https://i.postimg.cc/1zr5Q3c2/Range-Day12172016320and-PSA-084-800x450.jpg EVRlasting Home-Brew: https://i.postimg.cc/rpNRNzbh/Charging-Handle-AR1003042017-020.jpg to make the camo mottled effect I wad up tufts of paper towel and daub over the base layer. |
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John 6:35; And Jesus said to them, I am the bread of life. He who comes to Me shall never hunger, and he who believes in Me shall never thirst.
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Originally Posted By EVR:
I've used a variety. Rustoleum oil-based and other store brands seem to work well. has to be oil base and it goes by a number of names, but "tractor paints" seems to be common. use yellow and just a spot of black in it to make olive drab. use talcum baby powder and i can't give you the exact recipe but you use way more than you might think in order to really dull it. we have a low humidity here so it dried fast, but in really wet areas it might take a long time. i remember in jersey it seemed like it took weeks for a oilbased brushon paint to really harden. to make the camo mottled effect I wad up tufts of paper towel and daub over the base layer. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By EVR:
Originally Posted By wyoak41:
Originally Posted By EVR: @JLS81 RC on the backup gun but the AR10 is covered in my old standby; EVRlasting Home-brew top-coat. It's a secret blend of mysterious chemicals all no-doubt falling under the stinkeye of the Secretary for Environmental Protection/California Environmental Protection Agency. In a decade its use will probably warrant a 5 year stint in a Cali Environmental Re-Education Facility. Which is why I don't live in California. Actually, it's just high-gloss, hardware-store, oil-based tractor paint mixed with talcum baby powder to dull it and then blended for colors. Best home-brew top-coat I've ever found for stuff like hard-use guns, shovels, Pulaskis and the like. Stuff dries TOUGH and withstands more chemical abuse than RC. Used it for years on guns, shovels, picks, sledge hammers and such. It's a fantastic surface coat on parkerizing and dull anodizing and if it does wear it can be of course retouched where needed. In practice those coated with EVRlasting Home-brew don't much need to tho I have several RC'd AR's I really need to strip with acetone and re-coat with the better stuff as it is just a better paint. I don't even try to keep up with the wear on my RC's guns. That stuff really is almost a temporary cover. EVRlasting Homebrew must be kept out of actions and off bearing parts as it is thick and will cause binding and would no doubt chip off and muck things up inside the gun action, but then the same applies with RC. Here's a typical comparison of guns coated with RC and my stuff. Both have been used under pretty rigorous conditions. Typical RC wear which occurs quite quickly if the gun is used at all and bubs on body, rucksack, etc. As you can see basically all the high spots get wiped clear of the topcoat: https://i.postimg.cc/1zr5Q3c2/Range-Day12172016320and-PSA-084-800x450.jpg EVRlasting Home-Brew: https://i.postimg.cc/rpNRNzbh/Charging-Handle-AR1003042017-020.jpg to make the camo mottled effect I wad up tufts of paper towel and daub over the base layer. |
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Don't tread on Me
NRA Life Member |
Originally Posted By M-4matus: And for the anadozizing, anyone have any info on that? Geissele DDC View Quote Outlaw Anodizing |
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Originally Posted By EVR: @JLS81 RC on the backup gun but the AR10 is covered in my old standby; EVRlasting Home-brew top-coat. It's a secret blend of mysterious chemicals all no-doubt falling under the stinkeye of the Secretary for Environmental Protection/California Environmental Protection Agency. In a decade its use will probably warrant a 5 year stint in a Cali Environmental Re-Education Facility. Which is why I don't live in California. Actually, it's just high-gloss, hardware-store, oil-based tractor paint mixed with talcum baby powder to dull it and then blended for colors. Best home-brew top-coat I've ever found for stuff like hard-use guns, shovels, Pulaskis and the like. Stuff dries TOUGH and withstands more chemical abuse than RC. Used it for years on guns, shovels, picks, sledge hammers and such. It's a fantastic surface coat on parkerizing and dull anodizing and if it does wear it can be of course retouched where needed. In practice those coated with EVRlasting Home-brew don't much need to tho I have several RC'd AR's I really need to strip with acetone and re-coat with the better stuff as it is just a better paint. I don't even try to keep up with the wear on my RC's guns. That stuff really is almost a temporary cover. EVRlasting Homebrew must be kept out of actions and off bearing parts as it is thick and will cause binding and would no doubt chip off and muck things up inside the gun action, but then the same applies with RC. Here's a typical comparison of guns coated with RC and my stuff. Both have been used under pretty rigorous conditions. Typical RC wear which occurs quite quickly if the gun is used at all and bubs on body, rucksack, etc. As you can see basically all the high spots get wiped clear of the topcoat: https://i.postimg.cc/1zr5Q3c2/Range-Day12172016320and-PSA-084-800x450.jpg EVRlasting Home-Brew: https://i.postimg.cc/rpNRNzbh/Charging-Handle-AR1003042017-020.jpg View Quote Thanks for the great feedback NCScout over at brushbeater convinced the importance of camo up the rifles. got a really nice rattle can blend on the Mac90 just have not touched the AR platform just yet. Adios! |
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Originally Posted By JLS81:
Outstanding work @EVR Thanks for the great feedback NCScout over at brushbeater convinced the importance of camo up the rifles. got a really nice rattle can blend on the Mac90 just have not touched the AR platform just yet. Adios! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By JLS81:
Originally Posted By EVR: @JLS81 RC on the backup gun but the AR10 is covered in my old standby; EVRlasting Home-brew top-coat. It's a secret blend of mysterious chemicals all no-doubt falling under the stinkeye of the Secretary for Environmental Protection/California Environmental Protection Agency. In a decade its use will probably warrant a 5 year stint in a Cali Environmental Re-Education Facility. Which is why I don't live in California. Actually, it's just high-gloss, hardware-store, oil-based tractor paint mixed with talcum baby powder to dull it and then blended for colors. Best home-brew top-coat I've ever found for stuff like hard-use guns, shovels, Pulaskis and the like. Stuff dries TOUGH and withstands more chemical abuse than RC. Used it for years on guns, shovels, picks, sledge hammers and such. It's a fantastic surface coat on parkerizing and dull anodizing and if it does wear it can be of course retouched where needed. In practice those coated with EVRlasting Home-brew don't much need to tho I have several RC'd AR's I really need to strip with acetone and re-coat with the better stuff as it is just a better paint. I don't even try to keep up with the wear on my RC's guns. That stuff really is almost a temporary cover. EVRlasting Homebrew must be kept out of actions and off bearing parts as it is thick and will cause binding and would no doubt chip off and muck things up inside the gun action, but then the same applies with RC. Here's a typical comparison of guns coated with RC and my stuff. Both have been used under pretty rigorous conditions. Typical RC wear which occurs quite quickly if the gun is used at all and bubs on body, rucksack, etc. As you can see basically all the high spots get wiped clear of the topcoat: https://i.postimg.cc/1zr5Q3c2/Range-Day12172016320and-PSA-084-800x450.jpg EVRlasting Home-Brew: https://i.postimg.cc/rpNRNzbh/Charging-Handle-AR1003042017-020.jpg Thanks for the great feedback NCScout over at brushbeater convinced the importance of camo up the rifles. got a really nice rattle can blend on the Mac90 just have not touched the AR platform just yet. Adios! Some time take a look at pix from the 1st Gulf War. I remember watching that stuff on the news and noticing how personnel in desert camo were invisible at range but it was easy to pick out that "black stick" they were carrying, sometimes at very far distances in the desert. It seems to me to be supreme military stupidity not to have spec's a basic flat weapon color other than black long ago. Even a simple olive drab would suffice for numerous environments. Seems like I remember something along these lines being ordered for new made weapons or intended to be? Anybody have info here? PS: With the paint, my recommendation is that if you do this in the summer, not to immediately expose the thing to the bright hot sun as bubbles may rise up. I let it sit for a day or so then lean it against the shop wall where the temps here will reach 125 or more. Bakes on real well. And.......make sure you degrease everything touched by the paint with acetone. Absolutely no oil underneath the topcoat. Finally, it's paint, so it can/will wear. But it is a good strong protective layer if applied correctly. If a guy wants to be able to swap colors, RC is better as it is easier to remove. And regarding that, I've read that ZIP-Strip will remove or damage anodizing, so if something needs to be stripped from the receiver, I don't think it is safe to use the regular paint strippers. |
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John 6:35; And Jesus said to them, I am the bread of life. He who comes to Me shall never hunger, and he who believes in Me shall never thirst.
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One more beer won't hurt
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Originally Posted By EVR: You are welcome. Some time take a look at pix from the 1st Gulf War. I remember watching that stuff on the news and noticing how personnel in desert camo were invisible at range but it was easy to pick out that "black stick" they were carrying, sometimes at very far distances in the desert. It seems to me to be supreme military stupidity not to have spec's a basic flat weapon color other than black long ago. Even a simple olive drab would suffice for numerous environments. Seems like I remember something along these lines being ordered for new made weapons or intended to be? Anybody have info here? PS: With the paint, my recommendation is that if you do this in the summer, not to immediately expose the thing to the bright hot sun as bubbles may rise up. I let it sit for a day or so then lean it against the shop wall where the temps here will reach 125 or more. Bakes on real well. And.......make sure you degrease everything touched by the paint with acetone. Absolutely no oil underneath the topcoat. Finally, it's paint, so it can/will wear. But it is a good strong protective layer if applied correctly. If a guy wants to be able to swap colors, RC is better as it is easier to remove. And regarding that, I've read that ZIP-Strip will remove or damage anodizing, so if something needs to be stripped from the receiver, I don't think it is safe to use the regular paint strippers. View Quote **Noted on the degrease process** Great commentary on the black rifle at distance too. Can you stick out like a sore thumb? YUP!! |
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/324355/8B8F4ABC-CAA6-474F-88C3-100ED165D420_jpeg-1170707.JPG Come at me bro View Quote |
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Originally Posted By JLS81: @DoctorLove exceptional work! View Quote Attached File Attached File |
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One more beer won't hurt
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove: Thank you. It has held up really well https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/324355/4543B612-CDBA-45BC-84B1-7B7C32F392B0_jpeg-1170827.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/324355/1A52A254-FC36-4E0B-9901-1680324B7717_jpeg-1170830.JPG View Quote How’d you do it and what did you use? |
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One more beer won't hurt
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Originally Posted By JLS81:
Great commentary on the black rifle at distance too. Can you stick out like a sore thumb? YUP!! View Quote |
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Never confuse motion with progress; never confuse a college degree with intelligence.
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Cerakote. FDE, desert sage and forget the other color. I used spray gun for the base and air brush for the pattern. It was a lengthy process and a pain View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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John 6:35; And Jesus said to them, I am the bread of life. He who comes to Me shall never hunger, and he who believes in Me shall never thirst.
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Originally Posted By EVR: @DoctorLove How does homebrew Cerokote wear/last? Abrasion? Chemicals? View Quote Attached File I have been spraying for awhile now |
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One more beer won't hurt
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
It is a permanent finish. I wouldn’t call it home brew https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/324355/34E5E15A-6FF9-43BC-BD4F-40FE108E4ADC_jpeg-1171249.JPG I have been spraying for awhile now View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Originally Posted By EVR: @DoctorLove How does homebrew Cerokote wear/last? Abrasion? Chemicals? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/324355/34E5E15A-6FF9-43BC-BD4F-40FE108E4ADC_jpeg-1171249.JPG I have been spraying for awhile now Applied at home or professionally, how does it hold up? I understand there are mixed reviews on it but don't know the details at all. |
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John 6:35; And Jesus said to them, I am the bread of life. He who comes to Me shall never hunger, and he who believes in Me shall never thirst.
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Originally Posted By EVR: Gotcha. Applied at home or professionally, how does it hold up? I understand there are mixed reviews on it but don't know the details at all. View Quote It is all in the prep and the detail to attention. Weighing the product and the quality of the spray gun and air brush. Prep is going to determine the outcome and the cleanliness of your booth. I have a buddy who is 10 times better than me. He does amazing work, but his prep area and booth something you would see at an auto body shop. Guy is just incredibly good Cerakote was originally designed for industrial applications and auto industry. It is meant to hold up under high temps and withstand solvents and lubricants. They are constantly improving their product and stuff really is incredible |
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One more beer won't hurt
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/324355/8B8F4ABC-CAA6-474F-88C3-100ED165D420_jpeg-1170707.JPG Come at me bro View Quote |
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One more beer won't hurt
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@CMCctx
It’s nice man. Honestly though, I have no experience with any other two stage triggers to compare it to, but the overall consensus seems to be that they are almost or just as nice as the Giesseles. I’m not sure if that’s the case, but if so, even if the Giesseles are better, I wouldn’t care enough to pay the going rate for one. The LaRue is definitely worth $80, but that’s as much as I’d be willing to pay for a fancy trigger lol. That’s just me. Oddly enough, I prefer just a well made milspec single stage. Schmid Tool is my favorite. Same trigger group BCM sales, though you can get them cheaper under other brand names. I’ll probably stick the LaRue in my AR10 and put the Schmid that’s in it back in the BCM. Best price I’ve found on the Schmid. http://www.tomstactical.com/Toms-Tactical-AR-15-Enhanced-Nickel-Teflon-Trigger-Group_p_169.html |
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
I have found it to be extremely durable and I have yet to see a solvent the effects the finish. I shoot 100% suppressed and this particular rifle I have run hard. Many 2 gun comps and my own drills. Probably at least 6k rounds on it so far. They have since come out with a new formula that is even better. I can honestly say it holds up really well. I don’t fret if there is small gouge here and there. A rifle is a tool. There are much better applicators than me. It is all in the prep and the detail to attention. Weighing the product and the quality of the spray gun and air brush. Prep is going to determine the outcome and the cleanliness of your booth. I have a buddy who is 10 times better than me. He does amazing work, but his prep area and booth something you would see at an auto body shop. Guy is just incredibly good Cerakote was originally designed for industrial applications and auto industry. It is meant to hold up under high temps and withstand solvents and lubricants. They are constantly improving their product and stuff really is incredible View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Originally Posted By EVR: Gotcha. Applied at home or professionally, how does it hold up? I understand there are mixed reviews on it but don't know the details at all. It is all in the prep and the detail to attention. Weighing the product and the quality of the spray gun and air brush. Prep is going to determine the outcome and the cleanliness of your booth. I have a buddy who is 10 times better than me. He does amazing work, but his prep area and booth something you would see at an auto body shop. Guy is just incredibly good Cerakote was originally designed for industrial applications and auto industry. It is meant to hold up under high temps and withstand solvents and lubricants. They are constantly improving their product and stuff really is incredible |
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John 6:35; And Jesus said to them, I am the bread of life. He who comes to Me shall never hunger, and he who believes in Me shall never thirst.
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Originally Posted By Crogers23:
@CMCctx It’s nice man. Honestly though, I have no experience with any other two stage triggers to compare it to, but the overall consensus seems to be that they are almost or just as nice as the Giesseles. I’m not sure if that’s the case, but if so, even if the Giesseles are better, I wouldn’t care enough to pay the going rate for one. The LaRue is definitely worth $80, but that’s as much as I’d be willing to pay for a fancy trigger lol. That’s just me. Oddly enough, I prefer just a well made milspec single stage. Schmid Tool is my favorite. Same trigger group BCM sales, though you can get them cheaper under other brand names. I’ll probably stick the LaRue in my AR10 and put the Schmid that’s in it back in the BCM. Best price I’ve found on the Schmid. http://www.tomstactical.com/Toms-Tactical-AR-15-Enhanced-Nickel-Teflon-Trigger-Group_p_169.html View Quote |
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Don't tread on Me
NRA Life Member |
Originally Posted By M-4matus:
I was not at all impressed with the LaRue Triggers and I would consider myself a LaRue fan. I have had 2, one early model and one recently produced. They are not on the level with any Geissele Triggers I have used. No way. Especially when you consider that Geissele makes a trigger for every type of shooting you are ever going to do. I have replaced all my triggers with geissele triggers except in my 2 LMT MARS Lowers which came with LMT 2 Stage Triggers. I think the LMT is a pretty good duty trigger, That being said, I have 8 different Geissele Triggers, some for hunting, benchrest, 2 gun and PDW. I think the SD-E is my personal favorite. They just have really really good triggers for anything you want to do with them. View Quote |
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One more beer won't hurt
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
The MBT isn’t bad, but no Geissele. I actually really like the RRA 3.5 two stage. More so than the LaRue View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Originally Posted By M-4matus:
I was not at all impressed with the LaRue Triggers and I would consider myself a LaRue fan. I have had 2, one early model and one recently produced. They are not on the level with any Geissele Triggers I have used. No way. Especially when you consider that Geissele makes a trigger for every type of shooting you are ever going to do. I have replaced all my triggers with geissele triggers except in my 2 LMT MARS Lowers which came with LMT 2 Stage Triggers. I think the LMT is a pretty good duty trigger, That being said, I have 8 different Geissele Triggers, some for hunting, benchrest, 2 gun and PDW. I think the SD-E is my personal favorite. They just have really really good triggers for anything you want to do with them. |
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Don't tread on Me
NRA Life Member |
Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
The MBT isn’t bad, but no Geissele. I actually really like the RRA 3.5 two stage. More so than the LaRue View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Originally Posted By M-4matus:
I was not at all impressed with the LaRue Triggers and I would consider myself a LaRue fan. I have had 2, one early model and one recently produced. They are not on the level with any Geissele Triggers I have used. No way. Especially when you consider that Geissele makes a trigger for every type of shooting you are ever going to do. I have replaced all my triggers with geissele triggers except in my 2 LMT MARS Lowers which came with LMT 2 Stage Triggers. I think the LMT is a pretty good duty trigger, That being said, I have 8 different Geissele Triggers, some for hunting, benchrest, 2 gun and PDW. I think the SD-E is my personal favorite. They just have really really good triggers for anything you want to do with them. |
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Attached File
Attached File My Colt SOCOM is my go to rifle Attached File Attached File My other go to rifle is my 2000 registered Armalite lower (live in PRK) with a HK MR556 upper completely redone to HK 416 specs by IGF until the dude went insane |
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Mark it Zero!!
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Originally Posted By M-4matus:
I was not at all impressed with the LaRue Triggers and I would consider myself a LaRue fan. I have had 2, one early model and one recently produced. They are not on the level with any Geissele Triggers I have used. No way. Especially when you consider that Geissele makes a trigger for every type of shooting you are ever going to do. I have replaced all my triggers with geissele triggers except in my 2 LMT MARS Lowers which came with LMT 2 Stage Triggers. I think the LMT is a pretty good duty trigger, That being said, I have 8 different Geissele Triggers, some for hunting, benchrest, 2 gun and PDW. I think the SD-E is my personal favorite. They just have really really good triggers for anything you want to do with them. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Crogers23:
Yeah, I’ve heard everything from the LaRue being better to no where near a Geissele. Most seem to feel that the step up from LaRue to Geissele isn’t enough to justify the cost, but you’d think that there wouldn’t be so many shooters installing Giesseles if that was the case. I just don’t bench shoot, and don’t have enough long range ranges to shoot at in East TN, to justify the cost. I barely talked myself into getting the AR10 for the same reasons. Either way, in my opinion, the LaRue is an $80 trigger. I have no doubt that a trigger group could be made better. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Crogers23:
Originally Posted By M-4matus:
I was not at all impressed with the LaRue Triggers and I would consider myself a LaRue fan. I have had 2, one early model and one recently produced. They are not on the level with any Geissele Triggers I have used. No way. Especially when you consider that Geissele makes a trigger for every type of shooting you are ever going to do. I have replaced all my triggers with geissele triggers except in my 2 LMT MARS Lowers which came with LMT 2 Stage Triggers. I think the LMT is a pretty good duty trigger, That being said, I have 8 different Geissele Triggers, some for hunting, benchrest, 2 gun and PDW. I think the SD-E is my personal favorite. They just have really really good triggers for anything you want to do with them. Is the Geiselle better? Maybe so, but I am a lowly MBT-user, so I have no idea, but id someone wants to give me one I'll be very happy to report on how it stacks up. |
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John 6:35; And Jesus said to them, I am the bread of life. He who comes to Me shall never hunger, and he who believes in Me shall never thirst.
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Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
It is a permanent finish. I wouldn’t call it home brew https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/324355/34E5E15A-6FF9-43BC-BD4F- 40FE108E4ADC_jpeg-1171249.JPG I have been spraying for awhile now View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Originally Posted By EVR: @DoctorLove How does homebrew Cerokote wear/last? Abrasion? Chemicals? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/324355/34E5E15A-6FF9-43BC-BD4F- 40FE108E4ADC_jpeg-1171249.JPG I have been spraying for awhile now |
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The cheap 165$ geissele triggers are better than the MBT. Everyone that has shot one of my rifles says a holyshit that trigger is nice. All geisseles. I have traded out all but one of my SD3G's in favor of the SD-E. Unless you are a highly skilled speed shooter, I wouldn't recommend the SD3G or S3G. Not very good for accuracy, ,hard to anticipate the disconnect constantly. As for SHTF Rifle, my trigger of choice is either the LMT 2 Stage or the Geissele SD-E.
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Don't tread on Me
NRA Life Member |
Originally Posted By Crogers23: Yeah, I’ve heard everything from the LaRue being better to no where near a Geissele. Most seem to feel that the step up from LaRue to Geissele isn’t enough to justify the cost, but you’d think that there wouldn’t be so many shooters installing Giesseles if that was the case. I just don’t bench shoot, and don’t have enough long range ranges to shoot at in East TN, to justify the cost. I barely talked myself into getting the AR10 for the same reasons. Either way, in my opinion, the LaRue is an $80 trigger. I have no doubt that a trigger group could be made better. View Quote |
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Don't tread on Me
NRA Life Member |
Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
The MBT isn’t bad, but no Geissele. I actually really like the RRA 3.5 two stage. More so than the LaRue View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By DoctorLove:
Originally Posted By M-4matus:
I was not at all impressed with the LaRue Triggers and I would consider myself a LaRue fan. I have had 2, one early model and one recently produced. They are not on the level with any Geissele Triggers I have used. No way. Especially when you consider that Geissele makes a trigger for every type of shooting you are ever going to do. I have replaced all my triggers with geissele triggers except in my 2 LMT MARS Lowers which came with LMT 2 Stage Triggers. I think the LMT is a pretty good duty trigger, That being said, I have 8 different Geissele Triggers, some for hunting, benchrest, 2 gun and PDW. I think the SD-E is my personal favorite. They just have really really good triggers for anything you want to do with them. |
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Don't tread on Me
NRA Life Member |
Originally Posted By M-4matus:
I haven't tried the RRA, whats the cost? I was disappointed with the LaRue MBT. I love LaRue I just feel like the MBT was a flop. I guess I like light triggers with distinct resets. View Quote Schmid Tool 2 Stage trigger $65 shipped |
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One more beer won't hurt
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Attached File
LaRue Upper/Lower build NF NSX 1-4 Surefire can Surefire light with Thorntail mount (now has pressure switch) VTac Sling on Low-Pro mount BCM handstop and rail covers |
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"You want perfection, or nothing. The revolution was never perfect....We fight because we believe, we leave because we are disilliusioned, we come back because we are lost, we die because we are committed.
- Jesus Raza, The Professionals |
Speaking of Geissele, here is my recently purchased URG-i Complete. This will be my backup GO TO RIFLE, just got it Thursday. She still isn't done but close enough for tryouts. Eventually this will be a suppressed 10.3 SBR, a true confined space back up PDW. I have other PDW's I could post ( MP5k- GHM9c- 300BLK Pistol) but I'm sticking to Rifles for this thread. Anyway, I was extremely impressed with the accuracy of the URG-i on my first sight in. When you consider Geissele pretty much just cut their baby teeth building firearms, this rig is impressive. Geissele never fails to impress. It just seems like everything they touch turns to gold.
12 breakin shots taken with cleanings between every 3 shots, I then sighted in the Comp M5 @ 99.5 yards- Prone, Bipod, Sandbag, Comp M5 no magnifier, 77grn Black Hills MK262, 29*F., 35% humidity, 108 ft. above sea level. I was simply doing a breakin and rough sighting the newly mounted Comp M5 so no bullseyes yet, but damn impressive groups from a stock rifle that cost me $1,520.00. Yes, I bought it during the Halloween discount and I did swap the receiver extension to DDC, added a few Geissele Lower parts upgrades and mounted a Geissele/Aimpoint Bundled Optic, I might have 26 into it. " /> " /> 4 shot group and the left, 5 shot group on the right " /> 3 shot group @ 99.5 yards |
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Don't tread on Me
NRA Life Member |
Good shooting!!
I know you are breaking in the rifle, but FWIW, your post got me thinking. In a "GoTo Rifle" thread I'd say the old SHTF/3 MOA Challenge is a better indicator of performance than bench accuracy. One of the interesting things we learned in that Challenge was that the rifles that produce the best mechanical accuracy are not always {in fact, the test showed rarely} used to produce the best "field" results. https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/3-MOA-All-Day--Position-Shooting-Association-Challenge-Have-a-Go-/5-1950750/ |
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John 6:35; And Jesus said to them, I am the bread of life. He who comes to Me shall never hunger, and he who believes in Me shall never thirst.
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Originally Posted By 103:
I do not have a picture of it on hand, so placeholder. Basic M4gery with a Colt 921 barrel, BCM upper, older Bushmaster lower (about to replace with an PSA M4A1 lower because why not), CMT lower parts (except for LMT selector), Colt BCG, CAR15 stock with zip-tied pad, KAC RAS2 (I still use a KAC VFG as a hand stop), ARMS 40L, Surefire 951 with a 400 lumen head, Gemtech G5, Noveske QD endplate, CQB front sling attachment, Blue Force Gear sling. One of these days I'll buy another Aimpoint for it, but I do a lot of shooting in the rain, and irons work better for me in that setting. Barrel was made in 1997 and has lots and lots of rounds through it. Still hits what I'm aiming at. I have never experienced a non-induced (for practice's sake) failure with the gun. View Quote Attached File |
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Originally Posted By EVR:
Good shooting!! I know you are breaking in the rifle, but FWIW, your post got me thinking. In a "GoTo Rifle" thread I'd say the old SHTF/3 MOA Challenge is a better indicator of performance than bench accuracy. One of the interesting things we learned in that Challenge was that the rifles that produce the best mechanical accuracy are not always {in fact, the test showed rarely} used to produce the best "field" results. https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/3-MOA-All-Day--Position-Shooting-Association-Challenge-Have-a-Go-/5-1950750/ View Quote |
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Don't tread on Me
NRA Life Member |
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