User Panel
Posted: 9/11/2023 11:45:18 PM EDT
So shooting suppressed is a dirty job.
Anybody just separate the upper and lower and got to town with a brush, tub+water or simple green? Do the barrel the normal way afterwards. Maybe some compress air to dry quickly. Then lubricate liberally. The normal cleaning with brush, CLP, qtip + rag seems to take a while and doesn't look as clean. |
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In for answers because I started shooting suppressors not too long ago. I take a small metal pick with a thin microfiber rag wrapped over it and just run it along/between everything, then spray with compressed air if anything is wet. Not sure how efficient this is but it's what I had on hand
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I just wipe it down. Maybe I’ll throw everything in an ultrasonic cleaner if it suits me. But I’d have no issues doing the bath method if that’s what I wanted to do
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
I thought simple green was bad for aluminum?
I have washed rifles but I've also gotten rust on the steel parts. Castle nuts, endplates, accessories. Even when washing hot and spraying with a compressor right away. Then you have to make sure you get oil back on everything. I find it easier to just run a rag through it and not be as picky about carbon. |
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Without electronics onboard I have pressure washed, blow dry, let sit in sun.
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This reminds me, I need to re-up my cleaning supply.
My last bottle of Fire Clean is almost gone and since they went under as far as I can tell, I need to get something new that will clean, lube and protect, preferable in 1-2 bottles. Some of my guns are only shot suppressed or hardly ever un. I usually just disassemble the gun, spray it down with Fire Clean, let it sit/soak for 4 or 5 mins or so, put a bit more on it and go to town with the Blue Paper towels, dewy dowel rods and patches with a bit more F.C., carbon picks and or scrapers. Getting all the carbon, burnt and un-burnt power off. When clean I inspect for any worn or damaged parts, then when it finally looks clean enough and the actions don't feel gritty or resistant, I add a 3rd coat of fire clean to any actions or moving parts, work it a half dozen times or so, then wipe off any excess that's running outside the gun or pooling up in it anywhere. Shake it around real good to see if any more comes out, then wipe again if needed. I'm sure others have different process and their favorite CLPs, but that process has been working for me for 35+ years. |
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LARUEMINATI
NRA Endowment Life Member Originally Posted By Boom_Stick: ""AKs are for villagers you have to tell not to shit in their water supply."" |
It may make you cringe but it works; brake cleaner. Non-Chlorinated to be exact.
Split the upper/lower and go to town. We shoot 100% suppressed and have for many years, this is the way we have settled on. Quick wipe down with SLIP and light grease on the cam pin and rock on. |
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Pulled out the jammy, aimed it at the sky
He yelled "stick em up" and let two fly. |
Originally Posted By samsgreen50: It may make you cringe but it works; brake cleaner. Non-Chlorinated to be exact. Split the upper/lower and go to town. We shoot 100% suppressed and have for many years, this is the way we have settled on. Quick wipe down with SLIP and light grease on the cam pin and rock on. View Quote This. Brake cleaner and an old toothbrush. Compressed air and G96. |
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Can't never could 'til try came along.
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Compressed air is a must when cleaning any firearm.
Gets all the grit out of the action. RCA |
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
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I almost always shoot suppressed.
I have an 5.45x39 upper so when I shoot corrosive I wash it with warm water, blow dry them clean / lube normal. Otherwise disassemble BCG, put in Ultrasonic cleaner. Do a couple at same time. Clean rest of upper normally. |
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Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: What do you use, please? The computer air cans? A garage-type air compressor? If you use a compressor, do you filter the air or dry it? Thanks! View Quote Regular garage air compressor. I don't filter or dry it. Only time I filter or dry air is when I am spraying paint. RCA |
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Drill instructors brought all 72 of our m16a2s into the shower the night before a company inspection...
It worked. |
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And then, he arrives at the last item on his bucket list...
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Originally Posted By ptaylor: No cleaning needed just lube. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/23022/IMG_0226-2951996.jpg View Quote Lube solves most issues. I do clean mine from time to time. Shoot 99% suppressed and adjustable gas block will help a lot |
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Carry it, shoot it. (repeat forever)
Swing Your Sword |
Originally Posted By ptaylor: No cleaning needed just lube. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/23022/IMG_0226-2951996.jpg View Quote Just because you can, does not mean you should . . . |
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Originally Posted By TGWLDR: This. Brake cleaner and an old toothbrush. Compressed air and G96. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By TGWLDR: Originally Posted By samsgreen50: It may make you cringe but it works; brake cleaner. Non-Chlorinated to be exact. Split the upper/lower and go to town. We shoot 100% suppressed and have for many years, this is the way we have settled on. Quick wipe down with SLIP and light grease on the cam pin and rock on. This. Brake cleaner and an old toothbrush. Compressed air and G96. Another vote here for non-chlorinated brake cleaner (I use the CRC brand). There are some carbon caked areas that I will do a bit of scrubbing with CLP to loosen up the baked on carbon just so it will hose off with the brake cleaner. But yeah, if you really want that spotless clean then break cleaner is the way. I go through cases of the stuff and I wish it wasn't so expensive. And this is definitely something you want to use outside, you don't want to be breathing acetone fumes. You should also wear gloves and use eye protection. Though if I lived in a crowded neighborhood I could see people not liking me constantly hosing off ARs with break cleaner out in front of the garage on the driveway every time I got the chance... Especially on the weekends. Lucky for me (and everyone else) I live out in the country and the closest neighbor is over 200 yards away. |
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I don't have a suppressor but I've stripped paint off a couple rifles. For the initial round I coated the entire gun with citristrip and then power washed it off
Whatever that didn't get I used brake cleaner and rags. When the gun was dry I sprayed all the metal parts down really good with oil and haven't had any issues so far. |
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Parts washer from Harbor Freight. Spend a hundred bucks (probably more) on fuel filter assembly, upgraded solvent pump, seals, fittings, etc. Spend a few weekends working on it while the wife asks “when is this project going to be done”?
I use the Tractor Supply parts washer solvent. After a weekend carbine course I’ll take the accessories off the upper and throw the whole URG in and scrub it. Makes cleaning the BCG an absolute breeze too. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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You think you're winning this game? You don't even know the God-damned rules. But don't worry, I'm gonna teach 'em to ya..
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i had a bolt that wouldn't close due to carbon buildup inside the gas key.. its bound to happen sooner or later unless cleaned... I donit know anyone that lubes the gas key
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I wouldn't use normal Simple Green. It can have issues with aluminum. Probably ok if you don't leave it on long and it's thoroughly rinsed off, but I wouldn't risk it.
You can use the parts washers people have been posting. A cheap one would work. But your idea of just washing it would also work. Hot water (as hot as you can stand), a stiff toothbrush, and some Tide works great. After rinsing all the soap out, blast with compressed air to get most of the water out, or better rinse with 99% alcohol then the compressed air. The alcohol will absorb the water and help it dry more. Set in front of a fan for a while to make sure it's totally dry then lube. I spaced. You could use WD40 after rinsing the soap to displace the rest of the water, then Gun Scrubber, or brake cleaner to remove the WD-40, then lube. |
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If you use water, best practice is to use VERY hot water so that it flash dries. The issue is that you can end up with water trapped in places like the ejector spring, where it rusts.
Water isn't bad...but you have to get it all out. Hair drier...hot...evaporation. Following that, its optimal to spray it down liberally with a moisture displacing lubricant like PB blaster or similar...maybe even WD 40. Then, wipe as much off and out as you can. It's not a bad way to clean but you can do the same with a can of gun scrubber. |
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IIRC the purple Simple Green Pro is better/“safer” for aluminum.
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Originally Posted By FoxValleyTacDriver: I thought simple green was bad for aluminum? I have washed rifles but I've also gotten rust on the steel parts. Castle nuts, endplates, accessories. Even when washing hot and spraying with a compressor right away. Then you have to make sure you get oil back on everything. I find it easier to just run a rag through it and not be as picky about carbon. View Quote Yes the normal simple green is bad for aluminum but the purple HD simple green is safe. Just read the label on it as it’ll say safe for all metal. Washing a gun is like washing any other kind of metal. I think something easy to disassemble fully is important like an ar15 or glock for example are very easy to completely take apart and wash and clean. I used in the past a can of compressed air and simple green in a bathtub. It works pretty well if you let it soak for hours. |
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Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: I've always felt that if I ever had enough money to have all the firearms I want and to shoot them every day, I'd get a big auto parts cleaner with a pump and nozzle, and a 55-gallon drum of Hoppe's. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/Homak-2950798.png View Quote I do this (minus hoppe's ) or in a washtub with scalding water. |
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Originally Posted By Jnat: Just found an old…..old can of this in the shop. Smells awesome and seems like a good clp. Gonna give it a go. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Jnat: Originally Posted By TGWLDR: This. Brake cleaner and an old toothbrush. Compressed air and G96. Just found an old…..old can of this in the shop. Smells awesome and seems like a good clp. Gonna give it a go. I've still got a partial can in the shop that belonged to my grandfather. I recall using it 30+ years ago. That smell is indescribable. |
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Can't never could 'til try came along.
"All whelchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless |
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