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Posted: 4/5/2024 3:18:44 PM EDT
I bought a couple Spike's Tactical Spider complete lowers about 15 years ago or more. They've been sitting around and I'm finally getting around to tinker with them. I bought a couple SSA triggers that were on sale from Primary and fired up Youtube to learn how to swap out. I'm running into a couple problems...
1. I can't rotate the safety past fire in order to get trigger out. I push on the opposite side of the selector but it wont budge. 2. I have the hammer out and disconnector out, but trigger wont come out because the safety is in the way. 3. The pistol grip isn't fasted with a screw. I can't tell if it's a nut, but I'm not sure how to get the grip off to get the safety off. Anyone have experience with Spike's lowers? I dont know if these lowers are any good, but it doesnt seem like swapping the trigger should be this hard. I have a call into Spike's but I"m not expecting a return call. |
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Posted: 4/5/2024 3:39:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: pestilence12]
[#1]
Originally Posted By MichaelVain: I bought a couple Spike's Tactical Spider complete lowers about 15 years ago or more. They've been sitting around and I'm finally getting around to tinker with them. I bought a couple SSA triggers that were on sale from Primary and fired up Youtube to learn how to swap out. I'm running into a couple problems... 1. I can't rotate the safety past fire in order to get trigger out. I push on the opposite side of the selector but it wont budge. 2. I have the hammer out and disconnector out, but trigger wont come out because the safety is in the way. 3. The pistol grip isn't fasted with a screw. I can't tell if it's a nut, but I'm not sure how to get the grip off to get the safety off. Anyone have experience with Spike's lowers? I dont know if these lowers are any good, but it doesnt seem like swapping the trigger should be this hard. I have a call into Spike's but I"m not expecting a return call. IIRC, Spikes doesn't do anything different hardware-wise with their lowers. The pistol grip will have a grip screw. They're all the same. Either its A. A flathead, B. a hex head, or C. a socket head. Shine a flashlight down there and see what you're working with. They all are threaded and screw in the same. The trigger and safety should be milspec, so to get the safety out you need to get the detent out. the safety detent is under the pistol grip. So get that off first then the safety should roll over and let you get the trigger out. ETA just looked at Spikes tactical lower parts kit, and the grip screw appears to be a Hex head. So you'll need a hex (allen) key to get it out. |
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Posted: 4/5/2024 4:28:06 PM EDT
[#2]
Thanks for the tip. None of my Fixit Stick hex heads work. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to get my hex key at my farm. Appreciate the help.
I was under the impression by watching youtube videos that the safety should rotate freely or something if I push the non selector side in. Guess that doesnt work. |
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Posted: 4/5/2024 4:38:23 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MichaelVain: Thanks for the tip. None of my Fixit Stick hex heads work. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to get my hex key at my farm. Appreciate the help. I was under the impression by watching youtube videos that the safety should rotate freely or something if I push the non selector side in. Guess that doesnt work. It'll rotate freely once the detent is out  I'm not sure what you watched, but every single AR I've ever worked on or built, the detent has to come out before the safety will.I cant remember the key size, when I get home this evening I can jam one in there and get a size for you. They're typically...I want to say metric but I cant remember so I'll just check back in later. |
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Posted: 4/5/2024 6:56:34 PM EDT
[#4]
Unless somebody dicked up your lower, your pistol grip is held on with a 1/4"-28 screw.
If socket head, a 3/16" Allen bit is required. Your spring and detent for the selector need removed before the selector can be removed. Spring and detent are captured by the pistol grip. |
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Posted: 4/5/2024 7:55:57 PM EDT
[#5]
The grip screw, or rather hex screw on my Spike's lower is a 3/16.
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Posted: 4/5/2024 8:38:24 PM EDT
[#6]
Thanks guys, I'll try it out when I get my hex wrenches.
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Posted: 4/5/2024 9:33:14 PM EDT
[#7]
My Fix it stick did have a 3/16 hex. Was able to get grip loosened enough to turn selector and get the mil spec trigger out.
I was able to install the SSAE without issue thanks to youtube videos. Thanks guys, much appreciated. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 4/5/2024 9:40:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: SuperHeavy]
[#8]
People will cry, but you can put the safety between fire and safe and whack it with a mallet and take it out without removing the grip. If you wiggle it will slightly tapping it you can get it out "safer"... But you can damage the detent this way, and also don't lose it.
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Posted: 4/6/2024 4:49:54 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Dano523]
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SuperHeavy: People will cry, but you can put the safety between fire and safe and whack it with a mallet and take it out without removing the grip. If you wiggle it will slightly tapping it you can get it out "safer"... But you can damage the detent this way, and also don't lose it. No whacking, since you can crack the lower receiver for the selector detent pin this way. Just put thumb pressure on the selector from the no selector side, while moving the selector from safe to fire, to walk the tip of the detent out of the selector channel, and will push right out. When the selector is either safe or fire, the detent pin is deep in those deeper channels, and you will be unable to walk the tip of the detent pin out in those positions, So it the area groove between the two, with the hammer cocked back, that you are moving the selector back and forth with side pressure on the selector, to walk the tip of pin out of the shallow channel. Also, if unable to walk the selector out this way, then just remove the pistol grip, the selector spring that is retained in the grip, and them the stepped detent pin out of its receiver channel, so you can not easily push the selector out of the lower receiver. |
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Posted: 4/6/2024 6:14:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: j3_]
[#10]
Semi selector detent grooves are not made like an M16 selectors is and are not easily wiggled out. Some will not even wiggle out as there is no set spec for commercial stuff and the depth the groove is at varies between selector brands with some too deep to let the detent slip past the flat side edge. But it still makes no sense to do it as it is more aggravating and time consuming to even attempt it since backing the screw off enough and retightening it is only like a 30 second thing.
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Posted: 4/7/2024 1:23:44 AM EDT
[#11]
Depends on the selector, and how deep the center groove is between the two end deep detents.
Some are shallow'ish in V groove, so easy to walk the selector tip up the wall as you are pushing the end of the selector and turning it, while other are deeper, have more of a flat side, your never going to walk the selector tip back into the receiver channel for the selector to be push out instead. But yes, pistol grip retainer bolt backed off, drop the grip down on the bolt to relieve the spring tension to all the selector detent to drop down to clear the selector channel, and most of the time the selector will just push right out. I say most of the time, since can have a Few FCG groups that the side of the selector will bind up on the side of the rear of trigger tail, and in those cases, may have to start to pull the FCG pins, before you are able to get the tail of the trigger out of the way. And removing the FCG from time to time, is not a bad thing, since over time you can get fouling/debris build up in the pin channels, to cause the trigger pull to start to become gritty; especially on a new build after a few hundred rounds, where the parkerizing in the channels and on the pins starts to wear off. |
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Posted: 4/7/2024 1:40:45 AM EDT
[#12]
For future info you do not need to remove the safety to remove most triggers. This includes milspec triggers and Geissele triggers. Selector needs to be on fire and you need pull it out by lifting the front of the trigger up while pushing the rear down so it clears the selector. Installation is reverse.
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