In a GD thread where I'm partially restoring an old Singer 15-87, I started with a proctor style sling for both my first real project, as well as to test my machine.

It's not perfect, but it's a start
Been a good few years since I last sewed

Attached File


Need to experiment more. Had to add an extra stitch to tighten up against the slider. Trying to box x stitch there, and the slider binds when pivoting on the corners. Lining up the stitch was harder than I remembered...

There are 3 layers at this stitch as I added a loop to it for easier adjustment.
Attached File

Bump.

Because I am getting around to make a sling and don't want this thread getting archived before I get my supplies.

Free bump.

Messed with wnother sling stile over the WOTG clone.

Super fast and smooth adjustment. The webbing from Rockywoods is nice and soft, plus they have the exact ladder lock I needed. Specifically the ITW Nexus GTLL 100.

Short
Attached File


Long
Attached File


Simple pull tab
Attached File

Are the 1" triglides wide enough to accommodate the 1 1/4" nylon straps?

Great ideas. Serious high quality work!

Great ideas. Serious high quality work!

You can jam them through, but later adjustment can be difficult.  You'll be happier with corresponding widths.

@XxSLASHERxX

Can you disable thread archiving? There’s lots of good ideas and useful information here.

This thread is probably worth a pin too, but no one ever reads pinned threads.

Yeah let's keep this open.

Great stuff here.

I just created this quick adjust sling from a Primary Arms brand padded sling that goes on sale regularly. It required zero additional sewing. I added one Ladderloc buckle, one extra tri-glide slider, a 10" zip-tie and a pair of QD swivels. It works like a champ even though it's low budget. A pair of 1" D-loop QD swivels might be a little slicker for this sling.


It started as this sling(but one long length) and the five tri-glides that PA includes. Then I figured out what section of webbing to cut for the most efficient use of the sling. I cut about 39" from the long end of the webbing to create the quick adjusting section. That left about 12" of webbing before the padded section, which will go towards the butt end of the rifle with a QD swivel. The webbing on the other side of the padded section was left uncut and is about 17". This will be connected to the quick adjusting portion.


I used the extra tri-glide slider to connect the padded section section to the quick adjusting section. A smooth welded metal rectangle loop would have worked better here, for a little smoother movement of the webbing when quick adjusting. The tri-glide works well enough for this, but I'll replace it for a welded metal loop as soon as I find one in my parts.


I made the quick adjuster from a ladderloc buckle and a 10" zip-tie. I drilled a 3/16" hole in the ladderloc buckle and ran the zip-tie through it to create a pull by knotting the end. I'll probably replace the zip-tie for a paracord pull when I find my paracord stash.


I used a single tri-glide as a keeper for the loose top webbing immediately behind the Ladderloc buckle instead of sewing a loop from webbing. It works perfectly for this and is trapped in it's position between the Ladderloc buckle and the other tri-glide. A metal or plastic D-loop might be used as a keeper for a cleaner look.


This was completed without any additional stitching. I doubled back the webbing through the tri-glides where ever possible. This sling adjusts very smoothly and doesn't unintentionally loosen when bouncing the rifle around. I don't think the webbing is very good quality on this particular PA branded sling but it functions well enough. I'll see if it can hold up to lots of quick adjusting without fraying too much. As it is now, it functions great.

Nice!

I would suggest para cord in place of the zip tie, but zip ties work just fine

Like so
Attached File

Yeah, I mentioned that in my reply, as soon as I find my paracord stash I would swap it out. I actually used your photo to remind me how to thread the ladderloc buckle and where to locate the keeper.

I just threw this together for my SWOB carbine(Suburban War On Boredom). I've been meaning to convert one of these cheap PA slings ever since this thread started. It just now dawned on me that it required so few parts to make it happen. $5 for the sling(on sale) and the ladderloc buckle I repurposed. I think these slings are currently on sale $6.99 for black, coyote and ODG at PA.

BTW, the dimensions I mentioned above allows the sling to be very long. I and was able to connect the rear attachment to the lower receiver end plate and the forward attachment to the front end of a 15" handguard QD mount, while having plenty of length to use it in the modern way(over the shoulder/under the support arm). This modded sling has plenty of length to work with. It's a low budget setup that works well if anyone already has one of these slings lying around.

I use the attachment points as in the photo below, so I shortened mine a couple of inches more. It still has plenty of adjustment if I need to go longer for gear etc. ETA fix pic

Glad some of my post could be of assistance

I'm still fairly new to sewing, but other than US made cordura, US made webbing and plastic hardware is cheap and effective.

I question why many slings on the market are so expensive. Though Citizen Gear Co makes a nice sling at a nice price. I rock one of his on my shortie. Sold all my others on the EE and just started making my own.

I don't understand the price of many quick adjust web slings either. It definitely isn't material cost.

Just ordered some webbing to build a few. Thanks everyone who’s shared knowledge here

Anti-archive bump. Thanks to you guys for keep this thread alive.

Attached File


"Dog sling" with an HK hook. All US made components, seen on my super Chinese shoe patching machine.  100% inspired by this thread.

If I were making a dog leash, I would make it with this design (the adjustable handle part, not the padding part):



Best design I've ever come across.  Quite handy to be able to clip it around your waist or to a tree/pole/post when you need your hands free, but still need a little bit of restraint for the pooch.  Not to mention being able to quickly shorten the length of the leash to half the length in the blink of an eye.

How does the handle adjust?  Does it go through the buckle like a tri-glide?

The leash in the picture has the carabineer that the poo bags are on captured in a slot, so the whole handle loop can be wrapped around a part on most benches, picnic tables or railings if the need arises.

Yeah, the male side of the quick release is a tri-glide, so you can make the handle loop as big as you want.  Latch it around your waist, or around a tree.

I guess you could do the same with your carabiner.

O.S.T.


Bigger_Hammer

My wife inherited a Singer 401A sewing machine that she recently gave to me.  I started learning how to use it and began fixing old belts and slings with worn velcro then moved on to making slings and straps for other equipment.  I made these slings this past weekend with hardware from Mil-Spec Monkey (Cam Buckles and Mash Hooks).  The webbing is 1.5" "Camo Green 17337" and 1" Nylon Seatbelt OD seatbelt webbing.  

I probably should have left the 1.5" webbing open with an tri-glide next to Cam Buckle so it could fit even more rifles/people but that's and easy fix with some scissors since the webbing is probably too long anyways.  It fits perfectly for me though with my AK and SKS.

I made the buttstock adapter too but it moves/rotates a little too much.  Not a whole lot, maybe an eight to a quarter turn but just enough to annoy me.   I will probably need to tie it into the sling mount molded into the other side of the buttstock (I prefer the sling to be on the outside as it sits over my shoulder).

I have some black elastic band in different size and will make some sleeves for the hooks to keep them from rattling against the rifle.  

I probably have $15 in hardware and $3-4 in webbing.  Add another $3-4 for the buttstock material supplies.  I spent about an hour on each sling.  

Attached File



Attached File

Looks great!  I like the thicker webbing where it sits on your shoulder.

I bought some 3" webbing to play around with like that but I haven't gotten around to it.

For us dummies, that’s 4 triglides 1 loop 1 Alice QR and then of course nylon. Is that about right? Plus attachment points (QD,mash hook etc)

Think I settled on my final sling design.  

1" polyester tubing for smoother and softer feel, rot resistant and thicker so it doesn't dig into the shoulder.
https://www.strapworks.com/1-inch-tubular-polyester-camouflage-quadra

1" plastic slide adjuster
https://www.strapworks.com/1-inch-super-lock-plastic-strap-adjuster

1" plastic slide
https://www.strapworks.com/1-inch-plastic-slide-black

1" metal strap to cord twisted converter
https://www.strapworks.com/1-inch-cord-black-twisted-metal-reducing-loop

I use 67" of webbing and only have to sew one box stitch to secure the strap adjuster.  Put on the cord converter and attach 24" para-cord loop through it and then back through the slide to the rear portion of sling.  A slide then used to secure the sling to the stock.  I wrap the para-cord loop around the handguard or through the mlok holes to keep it from moving around.  With this method I can run the slide all the way back to the stock location for less dangling when stored.  Also use polyester thread to protect against rot and the ends can be tied and melted to keep the stitch from unraveling.

Anti archive bump

I just followed this design and I really like it! Also the tubular polyester is way more comfortable than the nylon I’ve used in the past.

Bump

And another bump.

I always get excited to see what someone is working on when this thread gets bumped.

I'm going to have my sewing machine out in the next couple of weeks, so maybe I'll have to knock out a sling or something to post in here

Tag

Made about a dozen of these for guys in Syria last year when there
Attached File