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Posted: 1/18/2024 12:57:37 AM EDT
I'm curious if anyone here has tried printing/using these hulls.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5232808 If so, good/bad/indifferent results? I'm probably going to print one, but would have to get some blanks to try it if I decide it's worth it. |
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There are some YTube vids of some guys who have extensive experience in different polymer 3DPs of both 37mm and 40mm casings. There's a lot more than meets the eye for those. Would be careful, but also an option, if you know what you're doing with your printer.
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Originally Posted By AKzgalore: There are some YTube vids of some guys who have extensive experience in different polymer 3DPs of both 37mm and 40mm casings. There's a lot more than meets the eye for those. Would be careful, but also an option, if you know what you're doing with your printer. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By jhereg: I'm still looking. Have printed a couple of cases, but am thinking about doing something w/ the cases that use the 22 Ramset blanks since they're cheap and readily available in town. View Quote Offset pressure source due to rimfire in a centerfire gun is going to be funky and I worry about ramsets having enough energy. Step up to 38spcl full blanks from boland fx, buy a couple boxes of 50 and call it a day. Are you really going to shoot 1000 rounds of 37mm/40mm in a month? |
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Originally Posted By 7insert: Offset pressure source due to rimfire in a centerfire gun is going to be funky and I worry about ramsets having enough energy. Step up to 38spcl full blanks from boland fx, buy a couple boxes of 50 and call it a day. Are you really going to shoot 1000 rounds of 37mm/40mm in a month? View Quote Very possible although 38 special is a bit long for this purpose. 45 ACP might be better, and the 9mm RK sounds like it can work well from what I was reading in some of the info. I'm going to test some of the stuff and see what it does. Something that will launch it well enough and will also enable reliable fuse ignition for pyro stuff would be a good option if I can find it. If nothing else I've got 10 or 12 of the commercial cases which take 45 casings w/ the copper burst disks, some once fired aluminum hulls, and a fair number of the plastic hulls for black powder. I like the idea of 3d printed cases if I can find one that works that will take a common blank of some sort and not require the mess of black powder. |
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Originally Posted By jhereg: Very possible although 38 special is a bit long for this purpose. 45 ACP might be better, and the 9mm RK sounds like it can work well from what I was reading in some of the info. I'm going to test some of the stuff and see what it does. Something that will launch it well enough and will also enable reliable fuse ignition for pyro stuff would be a good option if I can find it. If nothing else I've got 10 or 12 of the commercial cases which take 45 casings w/ the copper burst disks, some once fired aluminum hulls, and a fair number of the plastic hulls for black powder. I like the idea of 3d printed cases if I can find one that works that will take a common blank of some sort and not require the mess of black powder. View Quote Yep true 38spcl is too long but the suggested boland fx blanks are short brass from something else (Headstamp BPS and nothing else). They should physically drop into anywhere 38S&W launch blanks fit but dont blow up because I said that. Many successful launches and smiles from people firing with 3d printed cases + 38spcl full blanks from boland. FWIW I tried the half powers and they werent hot enough to do much with a chalk round. Also tried 38S&W from atlantic wall blanks but they were leaking powder all over the bag resulting in random charges or no charges, after a dozen squibs I just sort of set them aside. Atlantic wall apologized and offered to load me some replacements but that was ~6mo ago so I guess those fell into the cracks. Link to boland 38spcl full blanks: https://bolandfx-com.3dcartstores.com/38spl-full-load-blank.html?lt_c=1&quickcart=1&qc_action=quickcart |
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Originally Posted By 7insert: Yep true 38spcl is too long but the suggested boland fx blanks are short brass from something else (Headstamp BPS and nothing else). They should physically drop into anywhere 38S&W launch blanks fit but dont blow up because I said that. Many successful launches and smiles from people firing with 3d printed cases + 38spcl full blanks from boland. FWIW I tried the half powers and they werent hot enough to do much with a chalk round. Also tried 38S&W from atlantic wall blanks but they were leaking powder all over the bag resulting in random charges or no charges, after a dozen squibs I just sort of set them aside. Atlantic wall apologized and offered to load me some replacements but that was ~6mo ago so I guess those fell into the cracks. Link to boland 38spcl full blanks: https://bolandfx-com.3dcartstores.com/38spl-full-load-blank.html?lt_c=1&quickcart=1&qc_action=quickcart View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 7insert: Originally Posted By jhereg: Very possible although 38 special is a bit long for this purpose. 45 ACP might be better, and the 9mm RK sounds like it can work well from what I was reading in some of the info. I'm going to test some of the stuff and see what it does. Something that will launch it well enough and will also enable reliable fuse ignition for pyro stuff would be a good option if I can find it. If nothing else I've got 10 or 12 of the commercial cases which take 45 casings w/ the copper burst disks, some once fired aluminum hulls, and a fair number of the plastic hulls for black powder. I like the idea of 3d printed cases if I can find one that works that will take a common blank of some sort and not require the mess of black powder. Yep true 38spcl is too long but the suggested boland fx blanks are short brass from something else (Headstamp BPS and nothing else). They should physically drop into anywhere 38S&W launch blanks fit but dont blow up because I said that. Many successful launches and smiles from people firing with 3d printed cases + 38spcl full blanks from boland. FWIW I tried the half powers and they werent hot enough to do much with a chalk round. Also tried 38S&W from atlantic wall blanks but they were leaking powder all over the bag resulting in random charges or no charges, after a dozen squibs I just sort of set them aside. Atlantic wall apologized and offered to load me some replacements but that was ~6mo ago so I guess those fell into the cracks. Link to boland 38spcl full blanks: https://bolandfx-com.3dcartstores.com/38spl-full-load-blank.html?lt_c=1&quickcart=1&qc_action=quickcart I'll look into that. I think I'm going to try the ramset stuff first. I got them and some of the projectiles and cases kind of intrigue me since they fit together nicely. May not fly or could fly worth shit through. That's the beauty of 3d printing. I can change things easily. Those 38 Special loads look a lot like the 9mm RK I was originally looking at, and will probably get at some time. Time and budget keep me from just buying everything. https://bolandfx-com.3dcartstores.com/380-stage-blank-full-load.html |
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Originally Posted By jhereg: I'll look into that. I think I'm going to try the ramset stuff first. I got them and some of the projectiles and cases kind of intrigue me since they fit together nicely. May not fly or could fly worth shit through. That's the beauty of 3d printing. I can change things easily. Those 38 Special loads look a lot like the 9mm RK I was originally looking at, and will probably get at some time. Time and budget keep me from just buying everything. https://bolandfx-com.3dcartstores.com/380-stage-blank-full-load.html View Quote Good luck with the ramsets and keep us posted if it does work id love to buy those instead 9mm RK/380 stage blanks generally dont have enough ass for chalks and are slightly softer than a 1/2 38spcl blank I tried those first because a good bit cheaper/more accessible. |
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Originally Posted By 7insert: Good luck with the ramsets and keep us posted if it does work id love to buy those instead 9mm RK/380 stage blanks generally dont have enough ass for chalks and are slightly softer than a 1/2 38spcl blank I tried those first because a good bit cheaper/more accessible. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 7insert: Originally Posted By jhereg: I'll look into that. I think I'm going to try the ramset stuff first. I got them and some of the projectiles and cases kind of intrigue me since they fit together nicely. May not fly or could fly worth shit through. That's the beauty of 3d printing. I can change things easily. Those 38 Special loads look a lot like the 9mm RK I was originally looking at, and will probably get at some time. Time and budget keep me from just buying everything. https://bolandfx-com.3dcartstores.com/380-stage-blank-full-load.html Good luck with the ramsets and keep us posted if it does work id love to buy those instead 9mm RK/380 stage blanks generally dont have enough ass for chalks and are slightly softer than a 1/2 38spcl blank I tried those first because a good bit cheaper/more accessible. I'm waiting on some bits to test anything. The casings are printing w/ the shell opening slightly undersize. I thought about picking up a 22LR chamber reamer (which I need at some point), but I think I'm going to try chambering it w/ a #1 and #2 drill bit plus it looks like a 9/32 bit to cut the rim if necessary. |
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Originally Posted By 7insert: Good luck with the ramsets and keep us posted if it does work id love to buy those instead 9mm RK/380 stage blanks generally dont have enough ass for chalks and are slightly softer than a 1/2 38spcl blank I tried those first because a good bit cheaper/more accessible. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 7insert: Originally Posted By jhereg: I'll look into that. I think I'm going to try the ramset stuff first. I got them and some of the projectiles and cases kind of intrigue me since they fit together nicely. May not fly or could fly worth shit through. That's the beauty of 3d printing. I can change things easily. Those 38 Special loads look a lot like the 9mm RK I was originally looking at, and will probably get at some time. Time and budget keep me from just buying everything. https://bolandfx-com.3dcartstores.com/380-stage-blank-full-load.html Good luck with the ramsets and keep us posted if it does work id love to buy those instead 9mm RK/380 stage blanks generally dont have enough ass for chalks and are slightly softer than a 1/2 38spcl blank I tried those first because a good bit cheaper/more accessible. Edited to add: More reading. I had cut the case so the rim on the blank was almost flush. I left off that step to prepare it and tried another case. Entire rim of blank was behind the casing. It took 2 or 3 strikes but I got one to go off. Still going to switch to the washer cases and try one. Those blanks (picked up #2 to start) are loud as fuck in the house. I'm currently printing out a projectile and an adjustable base to go under a red dot for the rail so the case might be tomorrow before I get one to test and that's assuming I have the right washers. |
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When I was doing 37mm, I used a printed case head designed for .38 spl blanks. The head was designed to use a short section of 1.5" plumbing pipe for the actual case. Worked well, but would get occasional cracking of the internal cae head.
.stl were in the NT79 files, iirc. |
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Originally Posted By NAM: When I was doing 37mm, I used a printed case head designed for .38 spl blanks. The head was designed to use a short section of 1.5" plumbing pipe for the actual case. Worked well, but would get occasional cracking of the internal cae head. .stl were in the NT79 files, iirc. View Quote Wouldn't surprise me if I ended up using something like 38 special or the 9mm RK blanks in the end. I'm trying to avoid black powder. I'm a bit skeptical about the Ramset blanks, but I'm having fun messing w/ them and they would be incredibly easy and cheap if they work. I'm not out much for this other than some filament, print time, and small parts to test it. In the long run I think it'd be nice if I can make a few a week of whatever and have a large supply of 37mm stuff over time. |
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Op check out the 37mm MILC by methmatics, they are on odysee. They use a hybrid printed case and 38 blanks with a burst disk, a completely diy high-low system.
AWCY? Presents M.I.L.C by methmatics Reloading info (it's long) https://www.youtube.com/live/7zrsdRPIh_U?si=9meWt3X_-_zS3r2v |
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have you seen the dies KAK makes for loading the real 38 S&W blanks like 40mm uses, they have some videos on it. kits include the gas checks to crimp and they make a second die for decrimping them for reloading
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Originally Posted By BUDLIGHT906: Op check out the 37mm MILC by methmatics, they are on odysee. They use a hybrid printed case and 38 blanks with a burst disk, a completely diy high-low system. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkzPDaAXb8Y Reloading info (it's long) https://www.youtube.com/live/7zrsdRPIh_U?si=9meWt3X_-_zS3r2v View Quote I'll have to look at that. Thanks. |
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This is on hold right now. I got drafted to print a chess set for some relatives of a friend who are getting married. I think it's somewhere in the 240+ hours of print time so other stuff is on hold for a bit.
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I made a few shells based on what I saw in one of those videos. I have a mini lathe, which was just enough to do most of the machining for the hi-lo components. The vent holes were made using a drill and a jig made from a square nut.
Still needs further testing, but this setup shows promise. |
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OK. Chess set is finished. Now I'm back to this at least a little bit. Picked up some thick fender washers at the hardware store this week. They were too small on the ID for the blank but 1/4" was too big and it fell through. Drilled one out and put it in a casing I printed w/ the washer. Fired it twice w/ good ignition both times. Looks like the washer will work. Now these blanks are #2 and they're pretty anemic. I launched an empty projectile base & nosecone across the hall. It flew, but wasn't very fast. Will have to pickup some #5 or #4 at least and test w/ those at some point, but these will at least fire and launch.
Attached File |
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Ran across these 22 blanks designed for launching training dummies for dog training. The red ones (L5) show they'll launch whatever the training dummy is 250'. it's been a long time since I've been around anything like that so I don't remember that they look like but that might be a start. There's a purple load on Amazon which is listed as level 6.
https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/retrieving-dummy-launcher-ammo-22-caliber?searchTerm=Retrieving%20Dummy%20Launcher%20Ammo%20.22%20Caliber |
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That looks very similar to something I cooked up last year. Case neck tension is important. The first projectile was easily placed in the case, and it barely cleared the muzzle. Later attempts, with tape wrapped around the base to hold it tighter, went farther.
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Originally Posted By Gingerbreadman: That looks very similar to something I cooked up last year. Case neck tension is important. The first projectile was easily placed in the case, and it barely cleared the muzzle. Later attempts, with tape wrapped around the base to hold it tighter, went farther. View Quote |
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Attached File
Balloon light in a 37mm projectile with the nose drilled out to pull the tab and turn the light on. |
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Originally Posted By BUDLIGHT906: Op check out the 37mm MILC by methmatics, they are on odysee. They use a hybrid printed case and 38 blanks with a burst disk, a completely diy high-low system. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkzPDaAXb8Y Reloading info (it's long) https://www.youtube.com/live/7zrsdRPIh_U?si=9meWt3X_-_zS3r2v View Quote I was looking into that again last night. Initially I looked at them and thought that's interesting, but probably way too much hassle to make the bolts w/ the jig. Then I started thinking I've got a lathe in the shop. Maybe I should rethink this. Still working on the ramset stuff but I may look into making a few of these. |
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I modified a few bolts for a DIY hi-lo system using my mini lathe. It really wasn't difficult. I just used a 3/8 drill for most of the chamber, and a boring bar to make a counterbore for the rim. No fancy specialized tooling besides the lathe itself.
The jig for the vent holes was just a square nut that I marked and drilled by hand. A second nut acted as a spacer to put the square nut where it should be for drilling. |
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Originally Posted By Gingerbreadman: I modified a few bolts for a DIY hi-lo system using my mini lathe. It really wasn't difficult. I just used a 3/8 drill for most of the chamber, and a boring bar to make a counterbore for the rim. No fancy specialized tooling besides the lathe itself. The jig for the vent holes was just a square nut that I marked and drilled by hand. A second nut acted as a spacer to put the square nut where it should be for drilling. View Quote That's pretty much what I'm thinking of doing although I'm pretty deep in printing to test the 22 blank stuff first. |
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Originally Posted By jhereg: I was looking into that again last night. Initially I looked at them and thought that's interesting, but probably way too much hassle to make the bolts w/ the jig. Then I started thinking I've got a lathe in the shop. Maybe I should rethink this. Still working on the ramset stuff but I may look into making a few of these. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By jhereg: Originally Posted By BUDLIGHT906: Op check out the 37mm MILC by methmatics, they are on odysee. They use a hybrid printed case and 38 blanks with a burst disk, a completely diy high-low system. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkzPDaAXb8Y Reloading info (it's long) https://www.youtube.com/live/7zrsdRPIh_U?si=9meWt3X_-_zS3r2v I was looking into that again last night. Initially I looked at them and thought that's interesting, but probably way too much hassle to make the bolts w/ the jig. Then I started thinking I've got a lathe in the shop. Maybe I should rethink this. Still working on the ramset stuff but I may look into making a few of these. Launcherpope sells them too. His first batch sold out, but keep an eye out. https://launcherpope.com/ |
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This is interesting.
https://www.amazon.com/PATIKIL-M14x30mm-Cylindrical-Threading-Stainless/dp/B0BWTZBSZH I believe 9/32 comes out to .281 and those show .28 for the hole through them. Attached File |
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Those look a little smaller than what I used, and those seemed a little thin. I used 5/8" bolts. If you want, I'll post up a sketch of mine. There are no guarantees that they are safe. No actual engineering went into mine. They've held up under one firing though....
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Originally Posted By Gingerbreadman: Those look a little smaller than what I used, and those seemed a little thin. I used 5/8" bolts. If you want, I'll post up a sketch of mine. There are no guarantees that they are safe. No actual engineering went into mine. They've held up under one firing though.... View Quote The MILC system above calls for a M14x30 or M14x40 bolt w/ a 9/32 hole drilled through it. That's a pretty close match. I'm always game to see something else and I'm probably going to just get some bolts and drill them, but that has some appeal. The price isn't horrible for M14 bolts/nuts from what I'm seeing on Amazon if the hole is in the right place. |
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If those walls are thick enough, that's great. Like I said, I didn't do any calculations, I just guessed and hoped.
Having the center already drilled is nice. That part kind of sucked with my tiny lathe. Mine are tapped for 5/16-18 set screws. I don't remember what drill size that is off the top of my head, but I know it is just over 1/4". 3/8" drill about an inch deep for the case, and counterbore the end to fit the rim. I really miss having a DRO.... |
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Originally Posted By Gingerbreadman: If those walls are thick enough, that's great. Like I said, I didn't do any calculations, I just guessed and hoped. Having the center already drilled is nice. That part kind of sucked with my tiny lathe. Mine are tapped for 5/16-18 set screws. I don't remember what drill size that is off the top of my head, but I know it is just over 1/4". 3/8" drill about an inch deep for the case, and counterbore the end to fit the rim. I really miss having a DRO.... View Quote I have no clue if they're suitable. I ordered some to look at, measure, and maybe test. I was pricing M14 bolts and nuts. The prices are fairly high anyway so if those work they're a bargain. If not it's tuition on figuring out what works best. |
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Attached File
Got the bolts yesterday. Printed a base for one to see how it fits. Still need to do the rest of the work on the bolt, find some brass tubing, cut it, and epoxy it in place. |
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Looks good.
I designed my cases with a threaded portion near the base. My printer can get close with the threads, and they cleaned up nice with a tap. The bolts are removable if needed. Two of mine were already used on an older case design for an idea that didn't work out like I hoped. The head of the bolts rests on the breech face when loaded. Attached File The brass tube came from Amazon . |
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I think I looked at that tube. The documentation I'm looking at calls for 1.5" OD 17 Gauge brass IIRC. Only thing I've found on Amazon so far is this flanged plumbing piece.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP2TG32 |
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From the reviews it looks like that's the correct brass. Ebay has the bolts that are already center drilled and threaded for a m8 set screw, you would just have to chamber and drill the vent holes. I don't have a link handy but If you search the dimensions they should pop up.
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Originally Posted By BUDLIGHT906: From the reviews it looks like that's the correct brass. Ebay has the bolts that are already center drilled and threaded for a m8 set screw, you would just have to chamber and drill the vent holes. I don't have a link handy but If you search the dimensions they should pop up. View Quote I think I found the ones you're talking about. https://www.ebay.com/itm/185093230349 And it does call for a M8x8mm grub screw in the documentation. That might make it easier. |
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Got a chance to touch off a few of the ramset style w/ the washer. A #2 / Brown goes off, works, and can be reused. A #6 / purple goes off and shreds the plastic in front of the washer destroying the casing. I'll have to look at how well the lower level blanks work if I want to go that route.
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I've been thinking on the ramset/washer casings failing w/ the heavier blanks. I'm wondering about making what is essentially a replacement washer on the lathe that has a chamber attached for the blank. Take a piece of bar stock the proper diameter for the washer, drill the hole, cut the chamber, and turn it down to a safe amount around the chamber and cut it off. Then drill out the bodies to fit that chamber and glue them in place. I may have to try this. It would encourage me to use my lathe for more things than drilling holes.
Anyone see an issue w/ this idea? |
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I can see a lot of merit to a metal bushing with a .22 ramset chamber. Design it with a rim of it's own so it headspace itself on the printed case and can't slide forward away from the firing pin. If you don't go overboard on the glue, you could transplant the bushing into a new printed case when the old case deteriorates.
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Here is a peek at what I've been tinkering with.
Attached File My cases are longer than usual in order to accommodate the odd shape of the projectile. I don't have a good picture handy, but they are snapped like a pellet gun pellet, with a hollow skirt on the back. The metal hi-lo chamber is visible in this picture. I can easily transplant it into a new case if this one deteriorates. |
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Originally Posted By Gingerbreadman: I can see a lot of merit to a metal bushing with a .22 ramset chamber. Design it with a rim of it's own so it headspace itself on the printed case and can't slide forward away from the firing pin. If you don't go overboard on the glue, you could transplant the bushing into a new printed case when the old case deteriorates. View Quote I suspect even if you went nuts on the glue either solvent or heat gun might clean everything off if needed. I'm probably going to try it. It's slow though. Between being a single dad, working full time, taking care of the house, dating, and other things my time for this is erratic. I'm essentially thinking of a washer to match the recess in the case I printed w/ a chamber for the ramset blank so it doesn't blow out the plastic when it goes off. I keep thinking I've seen something similar to that before but I can't find it on a google search w/ the limited time I've had. |
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PM sent with a simple part sketch. Not sure exactly how much technical info is allowed to be discussed openly here.
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Was looking on Amazon through a few things. Something like this might be easy to convert w/ the right size.
https://www.amazon.com/PATIKIL-M8x19mm-40Pieces-Chandelier-Fasteners/dp/B0BNKW5B2B |
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Originally Posted By jhereg: Was looking on Amazon through a few things. Something like this might be easy to convert w/ the right size. https://www.amazon.com/PATIKIL-M8x19mm-40Pieces-Chandelier-Fasteners/dp/B0BNKW5B2B View Quote A guy might actually be able to use the female connector from something like these https://www.amazon.com/Xrfoiniu-Furniture-Connecting-Fastener-Connector/dp/B0C6XKF5ZN They're relatively cheap. (If my calculations and what I looked up are correct) I show 6mm major diameter which I believe comes to .236 vs .226 which I show for base diameter for a 22LR but .194 for the minor so you'd have an ugly chamber for a rimfire casing you'd throw away anyway. |
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Got the brass tubing in today. Cut it w/ a tubing cutter. Not doing that again but it works for a sample and got me a mockup.
Attached File |
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Originally Posted By jhereg: A guy might actually be able to use the female connector from something like these https://www.amazon.com/Xrfoiniu-Furniture-Connecting-Fastener-Connector/dp/B0C6XKF5ZN They're relatively cheap. (If my calculations and what I looked up are correct) I show 6mm major diameter which I believe comes to .236 vs .226 which I show for base diameter for a 22LR but .194 for the minor so you'd have an ugly chamber for a rimfire casing you'd throw away anyway. View Quote I ordered a pack of those connectors. I'm going to see how they work. Looks like the female connector is about 3/4 of an inch. I'll look and see what they're made out of and try one. |
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