If so, how is its durability? Better than Cerakote perhaps?

Moly Resin is the stuff billiard balls are made from, it's gtg

I've used it on several barrels and lower receivers. I don't know about the Ceracoat but I am quite pleased with the Molyresin. Very tough stuff.

I've done moly resin on 3 uppers, 2 lowers, and 2 870 shotguns. I've only had one cerakoted AR, and I think the moly resin holds up similarly well.
If using an airbrush to apply moly resin as recommended, it goes on super thin. I think the instructions say to lay down 5-6 coats. I only did 2 coats on my first upper and wore through the moly resin on the handguard within a few weeks of use. I think it's a good product but pay attention to the directions!

I prefer it to cerakote in general. Not having to mix hardener into it is really nice. Not as much waste. It does require 300 degrees to cure it so cerakote is gonna work better on polymer parts.

One of the most underrated finishes out there. I prefer it to cerakote.

Easy to apply at home.

I have a bottle of it. I'm eventually going to spray a A2 marked lower. Picked up a slightly used oven at Goodwill for $10 to bake it. Just have to decide if I'm going to buy a air brush or detailing gun.

Anyone have any experience which is better/easier?

Small Harbor Freight airbrush is all you need!

Great finish - Remember if you heat parts, plastic doesn't do well at curing temps.  I melted a Sig 556 rubber dust cover but the finish came out great!

Cerakote H is technically better, but when applied properly, H series Cerakote and Moly Resin have similar “normal use” wear characteristics. The advantage to Cerakote is it achieves that with a thinner coating, so it can be used in tighter tolerance areas with less issues or post coating fitment. The advantage to Moly Resin is there's no mixing required so you can pour your leftovers back into the bottle, and the requirement of multiple coats vs 1 single wet coat is more forgiving to the inexperienced applicators.

Ecco Machine uses it to paint their suppressors / conversions. I've had two done. So far it's been more durable than Cerakote.

It will be, if simply because it’s thicker and “softer” in a way that it better absorbs impact if you knock it against something,

A lot of suppressors use C-Series Cerakote as it is temperature stable to +1000F. However, C -Series is just a step up in durability over spray paint in my experience,

H and E Series will hold up substantially better in the durability department, more so than Moly Resin…..until you use the can on a semi auto. Those coatings are only temperature stable around the 500F mark, so it does get weaker if you exceed those temps.

Norell's is excellent stuff. As others have mentioned, it's a substantially thicker coating, but in my humble opinion is the tougher product if you're OK with the thickness factor. I wouldn't use it on tight tolerance or hand fitted parts--that's where Cerakote shines.

By way of example: Assuming all things equal in terms of proper surface prep and application, Norell's wins at abrasion resistance. I Cerakoted a Glock slide and an AR A2 receiver set in Norell's. The Cerakoted slide exhibited much quicker wear from the in and out of Safariland ALS holsters. The A2 receivers (a project to clone a "worn looking early M4) were manually "sanded" to imitate worn edges, and that abrasion took *work* to rub down into the aluminum.

If you suspect the part you're looking to refinish will have consistent scratching and abrasion applied to it, I think Norell's is the way to go if you want to prolong metal coverage. Either product will show wear in said scenario, but I think Norell's will maintain more metal coverage during the same period.