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Does anyone have information on the British L/W Mk1 body armor with SAPI plates? I have a line on a set, but cannot find any info on threat rating, etc. because the plates and soft armor are manufactured outside the US. The NIJ and .mil standards are not applied to the forign market. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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"Do you believe in the 1st Amendment?"
"Yes." "Do you own a gun?" "No!!" "Well then...sit down and shut your mouth." |
Regarding the following link:
=www.interamer.net/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=354&source=gaw&kw=ballistic-armor-plates-ex For the Steel Plate 10x12 Level III I asked the following question of Inter-American Security Products Technical Department- Regarding the Steel Plate 10x12 Level 3. I have a few questions I hope you could answer. Plate thickness? Plate weight? Plate Curve (single, double or triple curve)? Plate include spall guard (does steel plate include covering, ballistic or otherwise over the steel)? The answer: 1. 1/2" 2. 8 pounds 3. Single curve 4. Nylong covering the Level 111 Steel Russ A heavier alternative than the Kejo |
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I shoot and run around with a guy that owns and operates a company that up-armors vehicles for the milt and several gov. agencies. I ended up becoming a certified welder after talking a votec welding class in order to make my own SA mg-42. Now the result of this random this was, "hey Jim do you think you weld me up some steel targets?" "Sure, why not...." Ive gotten to work with AR-500, ceramic plates, ceramic, polymer, alloy composites, and lots of exotic bullet stopping stuff. I even got to watch a 1" composite stop a 20mm at 30 yds. I have access to some pretty cool stuff to stop bullets (plus I get a great deal on scrap metal!)
Having said all that I dont make armor, But Ive made a bunch of targets and shot the hell out of them so I think I can speak on steels durability. A few observations: 3/8" Ar-500 will stop ---- 223, 5.56 (all flavors), 5.45X39, 308, 30-06 (ball and AP), and 1 round BALL 50 BMG (AP goes right thru it). Now stop doesnt mean it wont bend or deform or get launched 20 yards away, just not penetrate. Except for the 50bmg, Im talking 6 rounds in 6 inches. In fact, it will stop more than 6 - I make rifle targets out of this stuff and we've shot the 100's of rounds at them. Now a 338 mag will penetrate, and 22-250 with hot loads will penetrate after 2-3 rounds at 100yds if you put them on top of each other - funny how the steel core 7.62 or the ss109 bounces right off. Splatter is a definite issue, when using steel. I have seen bullet frags gouge 1/16" chunks out of frames made of mild steel. I have even seen large frags remove as much as 1/8 of an inch of mild steel from a target frame holding the ar-500 target. Bullets (and pentration) are adversely impacted by the more oblique the angle at which they strike. As an example 1/4" mild steel angle iron will often deflect a 308 bullet when struck at 45 degrees (it will dent/bend but not go thru). Now if you take the same steel 1/2" thick and shoot it perpendicular to the plate, its sailing right on thru (most 7.62X39 will pentrate it as well) When you cut steel (hardened) it looses some of its hardness. Ive used a plasma cutter and a torch. A plasma cutter is better since the tempering loss doesnt extend as far inward. But it happens with both. In general, about 1/2" from the cut edge has roughly 2/3 to 1/2 the ability to resist pentration when cut with a plasma torch. Same applies for a torch, but the loss distance is closer to 3/4". I would feel very well protected wearing a 3/8 thick plate of ar-500, except it would weigh so much Hagii would easily catch me to cut off my head since I'd be moving like a turtle. Enter, ar-5XX - a new alloy. I tested some 1/8 thick plate at 7 yards last week with an sar1, a m-16, and garand. All rounds were defeated EXCEPT the ss-106 which pentrated (cracked a 2X diameter hole) at round 3 but round 4 pentrated. There was less than 1/16" spacing between rounds so I think if we'd have spaced the rounds out there would not have been an issue. The ball 5.56 didnt pentrate by 10 rounds so I moved to the ss-109. The 7.63X 39, both steel core and none steel core didnt pentrate after 8 rounds so I went ahead a tried one shot from a garand using 1970's dated ball. Bent the plate, but no penetration. So my thoughts are this would make a great plate to use with a vest. Personally I'd wear a vest OVER the steel to try to contain the frags - anything that can gouge steel as bad as Ive seen bullet frags do I want getting tied up in a vest vs. my face. #2, angled plates are vastly superior to flat plates. I think its very doable to make some 'SAPI' plates out of this newer allow and have them NOT be weight prohibitive, but I want to abuse it more and then see how it does with some Kevlar wrapping. Production cost I would estimate to be 1/2 or less of the current steel plates I see for sale.... Just a few random toughts - now back to my regular job - being a doc.... |
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Smooth is Fast. Formerly known as 4gma....
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Great post -exactly the kind of info I have been looking for -hope to hear updates. |
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Most people these days run something over the plates. A chest rig or some such other rig usually covers most of the plates on the front side, the side where splatter and deflection are the biggest concern. I think that would take care of the "catching the strays" angle for the most part. Wearing a vest OVER your plates will NOT give the desired ballistic effect. You'll still need a vest BEHIND the plates in order to prevent backface deformation. Also, if you got shot in a plate area, you would automatically have holes in your vest even if the plate stopped the rounds, where running the vest under the plate like intended would not leave holes in the vest from any rounds stopped by the plate. |
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Footrat,
I hear ya. I probably overstated the point, but I just wanted folks to know how much of a big deal the jacket/bullet splater is. Certainly, you need something under your plate to account for the blunt force trauma. Having said that, a layer of nylon, cordura, etc. is pushing the limit IMO as 'splater' protection. It might help some, but if the large chunks of jacket and lead can remove a 1/8'' chunk of steel (albeit mild steel) I'd prefer a plate with some kevlar wraping or some other coating to 'snare' some of the frags. I'll try to remember to take some pics of square tubing 'chewed up' from jacket bullet splater when Im rebuilding some target frames. To give you an idea, at the jtacsupply shoot this weekend we ended up sith a few frames (14 gauge 1" square tubing) that have areas that are toast from 'splater'. Until I started making targets, I had no idea how much there really was, nor how powerful it is. Another example, frames 20 inches from the closest point of impact ON HANDGUN targets get 'sandblasted' to bear metal if the design places the the frame in line of the blast. Anyway my point was to make sure folks appreciate the force and danger of fragments generated when a bullet is stopped abruptly. Certainly blunt force trauma from plate deformation is a serious issue and pretty well understood. |
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Smooth is Fast. Formerly known as 4gma....
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Along the same lines, I have decided to buy some Kejo plates and a Weesatch. I just want to make sure, but no one has had any problems with bodyarmour.safeshopper.com right? The reason I ask is because that's where I'm thinking of getting my plates from.
Also, where can I buy good, affordable soft armor covers for the 10x12 steel plates? I figure that, if I'm going to buy plates, I'm going the whole nine yards and getting good soft covers, too. Thanks guys. :) |
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Also keep in mind that splatter is an inherent problem with which one must deal when wearing steel protective armor. Ceramics do not have this problem as far as I know. Ceramics have spalling and backface deformation issues on the backside of the plate, which is where the undervest comes into play on ceramics as well.
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you got any of that ar-5xx on tap? |
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I wish more people could understand this notion. Ironically people try to buy M855 to get more penetration on armor. |
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Im working on getting some of the newer allow to abuse. Im pretty sure I could get some more and plasma cut it to all kinds of shapes, but I'd like to mess with it some more before I sell any. I plan to get a few more samples a try them out with different combos to eval its use as personal armor. If it looks good, I'll probably use it personally. Im really really sure I wont be selling it as armor - LIABILITY! However, if it works out and folks want it, I'll probably sell it as steel with a small markup for my cutting/finishing time.
All that is down the road, I need to TEST more before I'd feel comfortable wearing it. I'll keep ya updated. |
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Smooth is Fast. Formerly known as 4gma....
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Would it be possible to form said steel alloy into curved plates for better comfort? How would that affect the strength and such?
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6.2# Tit/steel plates, thinking of buying a few of these.
www.internationalbodyarmor.com/BodyArmor/HardArmor/TitaniumPlate/ TG |
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Footrat,
I dont know how well they would bend without heat which would effect the tempering and therfore the hardness. You would almost have to shape them and then have someone heat treat them. If you tried to bend them from flat stock they might just crack it that hard. I broke the die on an 80 ton press trying to punch a 1/2" hole thu some 3/8" plate a while back, so Idont even know if I have access to anything that could bend it (other than a 50 bmg - but that's lacking on the controlled part of the bend!). I should have some more steel delivered this weekend, so once I get back in town and get this run of targets done I may get around to messing with the thinner stuff. |
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Smooth is Fast. Formerly known as 4gma....
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Tag
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The night is my companion & solitude my guide, would I spend forever here, and not be satisfied...
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they say they are lighter, but are the same weight as kejo steel plates... |
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Their 6 pounds & 2.oz, as far as kejo steel plates, not sure what weight differnces.
TG |
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tag
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TAG FOR REFERENCE.
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"I should have stayed on the boat They said don't get off the boat..."
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tag
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"I should have stayed on the boat They said don't get off the boat..."
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I started to go with these,but these people dont communicate very well.
$125 + $15 shipping. www.interamer.net/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=138 Doesnt say how much they weigh, Im thinking 9lb. TG |
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See my post (second from top) on page 5. |
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Thanks, dunno how I'd over looked that reply.
TG |
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I was looking to buy a 2nd set of plates, just sent funds to interamer.net,hopefully theyle be here next week. TG |
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Question about the Kejo plates 8 x10 steel.
Are they curved (triple?) or ergonomic to the body? Are they comfortable, in terms of jabbing you in the throat or sides? Question about the Kejo special forces helmet. What suspension system does it use (mesh or something it mentioned)? Can you install a padded system into it for better fit and comfort? Thanks guys |
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The night is my companion & solitude my guide, would I spend forever here, and not be satisfied...
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Gunslingerdoc,
What is the density of that fancy new alloy you are playing with? i.e. how much woudl an 8x10 or 10x12 plate of the stuff 1/8" thick wieigh? |
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"To surrender Liberty in the name of Safety is to surrender both."
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I would like to know if any of you buy a front and a back plate? Looks like the recomendation is for 10 x 12 front plates but what about back? These plates are not "sets" are they?
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Just got off the phone with Elaine, she seem real helpful,nice lady & says my plates will be shipped out today through UPS. toll free # is 888-299-9750. TG |
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Let us know how you like those plates. See top of page 5 (this thread) for specs.
Seem a bit heavy in comparison to the Kejo or Int'l. http://www.internationalbodyarmor.com/BodyArmor/HardArmor/TitaniumPlate/ http://bodyarmour.safeshopper.com/120/469.htm?581 |
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I don't have a set myself, but my research indicates that they are 10x12 rectangle with NO operator trapezoidal cut. They are single curve, but you can get them flat on special request. Fit is reported to be OK, however shooting a handgun with isosolese stance is a bit awkward with the front deltoids (shoulders) contacting the upper edges of the plate. |
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guys if your looking for plates I have 2 sets for sale just wanted to throw it out there to my AR15 brothers first before I start posting elsewhere :)
1. Interceptor OTV with level III soft armor inserts(size large) $300 2. Tap Gamma Plus ceramic plates(rated III+ stand alone and level IV when worn with level III soft armor) 10x12 5.2 lbs each multi hit rated $550(2 plates) 3. Armor Holdings Aerospace and Defense Group ceramic plates(rated level III+ stand alone and level IV with level III soft armor) 9x12 4lbs each (no these are not polyethalene) multi hit rated these are exactly like the boys overseas wear but lighter. $300(2 plates) if you guys bought the OTV and the Armor holdings plates together price is $500 plus shipping if you buy the OTV and Tap Gamma Plus plates together price goes to $700 plus shipping |
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Just a question before I start cutting up a Kevlar panel, thinking of cutting up a kevlar panel.
To make spall guard for my steel plates, how many layers of kevlar should I put on each plate? Can I use a spray adhesive so kevlar stick to the steel plate or just use duck tape? I do have a friend who can make pouches,dunno if she can sew kevlar together? Comments appreciated. Thanks. TG |
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I tested some trauma plates not to long ago including a second chance k30. The kevlar cover on the k30 was 2 layers and was able to contain all the fragments from a AP type pistol round. The k30's have the kevlar layers sewn to keep them on except for the largest one which they used duck tape to hold on. If it were me I would probably go with 2-3 layers and sew them if I had pieces that big. |
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Thanks Mike, will probably go with three layers of kevlar
Better than taking a chance of getting hit with spall. TG |
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Does anyone know where some ceramic stand alone level III plates migght be avaiable from, at a good price? I'd like it to havec the operator (trapezoidal) cut if possible.
Thanks for your help. |
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Tag.
Does anyone have a good place to look regarding information specifically on the polyethelyne plates? I looked through Bulletproofme.com and I thought it was a good website. Any others? -K |
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Truth is called hate by those who hate the truth.
If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, thank a soldier. |
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I got my plates from Botach yesterday (The $150 "On Sale" plates) and I'm very pleased with them. Made by Ceramic Protection in Canada, they are shaped to exactly fit my chest. I ordered these last friday and got them on Wed so Botach came through in a big way though I did call to check stock before ordering.
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"War is less costly than servitude. The choice is always between Verdun and Dachau." -Jean Dutourd
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Post some pictures. You probably noticed ceramic or steel plates dont feel all that heavy while wearing them. TG |
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Great info, great thread!!!
Couple of questions, I'm in the market for a front and rear 10x12 plates to fit my wasatch. These won't be used all the time or for any kind of work, but more for a few up coming classes. I do not plan on wearing any soft armor underneath, nor do I have the funds for it right now My budget for these is hovering right around $400 right now, I've seen a few Mfg's named in this thread so far, but does anyone else have any recommendations other than kejo and CPC? Also, steel seems to be more moderatley priced vs Ceramic and I like the care or lack of care issues with the steel, but am concerned now with the spalling issue of the steel plates in my set up should something bad happen. Does anyone know of a mfg that is making a kevlar bag for these plates that will still fit in the carriers? I know what I'm going after isn't the best choice for total protection, but feel if I ever needed it, it will be a far cry better than the other alternative. Thanks in advance! |
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OREGON SHOOTERS! CHECK YOUR HOMETOWN FORUM! http://www.jobrelatedstuff.com/forums/forum.html?b=8&f=36 308 for when you care enough to send the best! |
I know your asking for something other than Kejo, but the Kejo does have a spall type guard around it. Not sure how effective it is.
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“If you fail in your effort to stay alive, all your other endeavors are pretty much immaterial, aren’t they?” – Kit Cessna
I have no time for gun shop lore, myths & legends, and just plain nonsense. |
I may have worded that wrong, I was looking for other mfg's to look at other than just the two I had listed. I'll go with Kejo if they are worth it, but was just looking for as many options as possible in that config/price range Thanks! |
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OREGON SHOOTERS! CHECK YOUR HOMETOWN FORUM! http://www.jobrelatedstuff.com/forums/forum.html?b=8&f=36 308 for when you care enough to send the best! |
I was lucky to find a pair of military issue SAPI plates at my local surplus store; some guy dumped a dozen of them at the store and were sitting idle in the store, so the owner dropped the price on them, just to get rid of them. Picked up a LARGE, still in the wrapper and a MEDIUM that was practically new; slipped them into my Interceptor OTV and I'm done.
One plate was made by Ceradyne Inc. and was manufactured in 2004 while the other one was made by Armorworks Inc. in 2002, both are rated up 7.62mm M80 Ball and 7.62mm NATO APM2 (as in Armor-Piercing M2). I remember back when I was in Kuwait, we had a fire and one of our tents and several (as in over 30) Interceptors and SAPI plates were destroyed in that fire; I went to check the pile and inspected what was left; the SAPI plates the military uses are comprised of about 28 layers of 100% Kevlar aramyd with a boron carbide baseplate, all packed in resin and wrapped in ballistic nylon. On a side note, Armorworks also makes the armor plating kits for our tactical vehicles and helicopters, from Hummvees and M915s to Blackhawks and Chinooks. ARMORWORKS WEBSITE CERADYNE INC WEBSITE |
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What information were you looking for? Also, I've not seen any ceramic Level III stand-alone plates, they've all been "in conjunction with". Even the Stand-Alone Level IV plates from CPC will not pass the Level III testing protocol when done on a stand-alone basis. I've seen Level III stand-alone plates made of HDPE, but these plates won't stop any A.P. or improved penetration rounds (read AK steel core or 5.56mm M-855/SS-109 rounds), but will stop the FML/Ball rounds of the level III protocol. This is not to say that Level III SA ceramic plates do not exist, but I've not seen any. TimW Phoenix Practical Tactical, LLC |
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Any one know where to get kevlar sheets for spall shielding at a decent price?
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Thanks, guys. This thread has saved me a lot of headache. I'm trying to get gear ready for possible deployment to someplace warmer and nastier, so I've been looking for stand-alone plates to defeat 7.62x39mm and 5.56mm to wear with a plate carrier.
The BulletProofMe site's Level IV in-conjunction plates with Level II armor, when worn alone, fill the bill, and won't weigh too much. $520 for a set is OK, too. Thanks for taking the time to make my choices easier. |
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Kick Ass.
Take Names. Repeat As Necessary. |
When you say "when worn alone" do you mean w/o the Level II vest? If so, you no longer have Level IV protection. The in-conjunction-with plates rely on the soft-armor undervest to absorb and spread the shock of the round's impact. Without it, it can, and will very likely, fail. For example, the Level III/IV In Conjunction With Level IIIa vest plate I sell (the same from as Bulletproofmet.com) Fails the Level IV test and FAILS the level III test on rounds 5 and 6 when the soft armor is NOT used. If it has an in-conjunction-with rating, there is a reason for it. Stand-alone plates are labeled that way for a similar reason. You can use Stand-alone plates with soft-armor and have the same protection, but you cannot use an ICW plate w/o soft armor and achieve the same protection. Hope this is clear. Be safe TimW Phoenix Practical Tactical, LLC |
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