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Posted: 11/5/2023 7:56:19 PM EDT
In my 1911 (keworks iirc) the magazines have recently only holding enough gas for like 10 shots. I tried purging them but it didn't work.

Any other ideas? Could it be the gun? I am getting on my hands when shooting.

It's an older gun that was gifted to my son. I'm not sure how old the magazines are. Would it be a good test to buy a couple new mags?
Link Posted: 11/5/2023 8:02:27 PM EDT
[#1]
Originally Posted By 03RN:
In my 1911 (keworks iirc) the magazines have recently only holding enough gas for like 10 shots. I tried purging them but it didn't work.

Any other ideas? Could it be the gun? I am getting on my hands when shooting.

It's an older gun that was gifted to my son. I'm not sure how old the magazines are. Would it be a good test to buy a couple new mags?
View Quote


Seal or orings probably dried out.
You may be able to replace them.

Link Posted: 11/6/2023 11:42:46 AM EDT
[#2]
I would start with tearing down the magazine and adding silicone oil to all the seals.

But if the magazine is not leaking the problem is your gun. Same thing, clean the piss out of the gun and add silicone oil to the rubber parts. I had a HK VP9 that was doing something similar and it was because the gun was very dirty. Cleaning it up and oiling fixed it.
Link Posted: 11/13/2023 11:02:48 PM EDT
[#3]
You sure it's KE Works? Never heard of them and google isn't showing anything. Sure it's not KJ Works? Aka KJW.
To start, is the gas can you're filling from still full? I know it's like tech support asking you to make sure it's plugged in but I've caught myself wondering why my gun runs like crap only to later realize my propane bottle was done and I needed a new one. You are turning the mag and can upside down during filling so that liquid flows down from the bottle into the mag?

With the simple stuff out of the way:

Check for leaks? Fill the mag with gas (whatever it will hold) and stick it underwater. See if there are bubbles coming out to find any leaks. There's a few possible leak points.

Fill valve: If it's leaking around the outside of the fillvalve through the threads, try tightening it down some (a GBB valve wrench is real nice for this and cheap at most decent airsoft shops, though a small flathead will work) or re-lube or replace the oring. If it's leaking through the valve stem itself, all you can really do is replace the valve. They're cheap but you'll likely have to order them online unless you have a good airsoft store nearby, so might as well order a few. I'm personally a fan of KJW valves. I've had them hold CO2 with no leaks so they're solid. Most airsoft GBB fill valves are the same size so any brand should work. Stay away from WE-Tech valves, leaky pieces of crap.

Output valve: If it's leaking around the outside threads, it's same as the fill valve, tighten (really gonna need that valve wrench for this one.), and service the outer o-rings. If it's leaking through the valve itself, either out through the rubber output port on top of the mag, or through the valve stem in the back. Again all you can really do is replace them. They can be fixed but not really worth the effort. Parts (if anyone offers them individually) will likely be the same price as a new valve. Again, I recommend KJW valves for this.

Mag body: If it's leaking through the various joints in the mag body itself or the screws/pins holding it together. You can try tightening the screws or lubing/replacing the o-rings. Frankly, as a preventative measure I just disassemble all my new mags, coat all those joints with JB-Weld and epoxy the whole thing sealed. Not around the valve holes obviously. Now it'll never leak. The mags are made in several pieces for ease of manufacture but after that, there is really no reason for you to need to access the inside of the gas chamber again, except to service those o-rings which, after epoxying it all together, are no longer a factor. Besides that, everything else can be serviced from outside the mag and if you want to clean the inside out once in a blue moon, remove the valves and just spray cleaner up into the holes and let it all flush out. There's really nothing in there that you need to disassemble the mag body to get to. All those joints are just an extra potential failure point.

Or just buy a new mag (KJW). Again, not sure what KE Works is, but if it's a Tokyo Marui clone (like most GBB brands) then KJW mags and parts will all work. If not then all bets are off as far as finding parts that fit. Not many other 1911 designs out there that are all that well supported. KSC/KWA sorta, but I'm gonna go ahead and assume it's not a KSC-based design.
Link Posted: 11/16/2023 11:21:56 PM EDT
[#4]
Yeah, KJ

I bought a new mag and a wrench for the valves. I'll try the new mag and if it works then I'll figure out the old mags.

Thanks
Link Posted: 11/22/2023 8:44:34 PM EDT
[#5]
Guess it's the gun...
Link Posted: 1/8/2024 3:17:45 AM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 03RN:
Guess it's the gun...
View Quote


Well that kinda sucks. Could be any number of things in that case. Especially being an older gun. Could be parts in the trigger group got worn too far out of spec and the timing is all screwed up. Maybe check the nozzle for cracks? The little spring-loaded plastic bit inside the rear of the slide where the firing pin on a real one would be.
I had a KJW 1911 that I cracked the nozzle on trying to do a hush-puppy sorta thing and holding the slide forward to keep it from cycling. ProTip: Don't do that. It will break shit. these guns NEED to cycle. All that gas pressure has to go somewhere and it ain't all going out the barrel.
Sometimes nozzles will crack just because they're poorly fitted out of the box, and end up taking all the impact of stopping the slide when it comes forward into battery and they're not supposed to do that. That's the outer barrel's job.
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