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Aridus Industry and GG&G Both make a BERETTA 1301 OPTIC RAIL MOUNT FOR THE RMR . Replaces the factory plastic rail and rear sight . Will these fit a A300 ultimate patrol. ( line up with front post correctly )And if so which one to get. I like the half ring rear ghost ring both brands offer it . For a holoson 507c Your input please thank you. Update ************will not work 1301 and A300 have different heights sights . *********************** |
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Yes they fit. I just installed the GG&G on my 300. Looking at the Holosun 509T for mine.
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Here’s another option I found for little red dots.
*disclaimer. I haven’t used them yet. I don’t know anything about that company Optic mount |
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Originally Posted By Skar: I called will fit on gun BUT will not line up to front post sight . They are different heights. View Quote GG&G has a separate optic mount that allows you to retain the factory rear sight. I would think the 1301 mount that includes a rear sight would 'work' since the mounting holes are the same, and since it's adjustable I would think it could be zeroed, but I've not tried one, so I don't know this to be fact. If anyone finally decides to make a decent front sight for the 300 this would cure the zero problem. The factory sight is marginal at best... |
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I emailed GG&G and they said they are working on it (A rear sight like the 1301 for the A300 )
They said the 1301 sights are different height then the A300 and WILL NOT WORK with front post . |
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Took mine out for a test run, 75 rds of buck and slugs, a hodge podge of federal tactical 00, F127, LE133, Remington 000, trueball, remington and brenneke slugs. I did have one failure to push the last round out so I tried a mag spring I had laying around that stuck out 13 inches but I couldn't get seven in the tube, it binded so I put the old spring back in. Maybe I'll trim it back and try again but right now it's not an issue.
My light on the fore grip never loosened. Didn't even use the clamp. If I compare recoil to my old 1187 SP the Remington was the pussycat but two and a half pounds heavier. 8 rounds of trueball and brenneke at a little over 20 yards. IMG_20240417_145618454ps |
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Originally Posted By greyeyezz: Took mine out for a test run, 75 rds of buck and slugs, a hodge podge of federal tactical 00, F127, LE133, Remington 000, trueball, remington and brenneke slugs. I did have one failure to push the last round out so I tried a mag spring I had laying around that stuck out 13 inches but I couldn't get seven in the tube, it binded so I put the old spring back in. Maybe I'll trim it back and try again but right now it's not an issue. My light on the fore grip never loosened. Didn't even use the clamp. If I compare recoil to my old 1187 SP the Remington was the pussycat but two and a half pounds heavier. 8 rounds of trueball and brenneke at a little over 20 yards. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53659912242_bcc8708873_h.jpgIMG_20240417_145618454ps View Quote |
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The accumulated filth of all their sex and murder will foam up about their waists and all the whores and politicians will look up and shout "Save us!"... and I'll look down, and whisper "No."
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Montani Semper Liberi
Deuteronomy 31:6 ~ Be strong and courageous. Do not fear or be in dread of them, for it is the Lord your God who goes with you. He will not leave you or forsake you.” |
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Got my new Holoson 507c and a GG&G mounting plate .
GG&G instruction says Holoson needs shorter screws Or damage will occur . Ones that come with mount are to long . ?  what size and where can I get them? Some of you must’ve already done this. Thank you |
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Originally Posted By Skar: Got my new Holoson 507c and a GG&G mounting plate . GG&G instruction says Holoson needs shorter screws Or damage will occur . Ones that come with mount are to long . ?  what size and where can I get them? Some of you must’ve already done this. Thank you View Quote The 507c should of came with two sets of screws. A long set and a shorter set. |
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Got off a little early so I decided to disassemble and clean my A300. First time disassembling a semiautomatic shotgun, watched a couple videos on YouTube first.
Not difficult to disassemble at all, getting the, I guess you would call it operating arm, barrel, forearm spacer and forearm all in while holding the bolt/carrier assembly was a little tricky Surprised the gas piston O ring was a spring? Also, the bolt and carrier had more finish wear than I would have expected after 100 rounds. It looks like it will be self limiting. I am going to order a metal barrel lock and barrel clamp, and probably an extra strength mag spring as they seem to be a weakness of the shotgun. |
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A true Texan would never leave his friends behind!
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Originally Posted By colklink: Got off a little early so I decided to disassemble and clean my A300. First time disassembling a semiautomatic shotgun, watched a couple videos on YouTube first. Not difficult to disassemble at all, getting the, I guess you would call it operating arm, barrel, forearm spacer and forearm all in while holding the bolt/carrier assembly was a little tricky Surprised the gas piston O ring was a spring? Also, the bolt and carrier had more finish wear than I would have expected after 100 rounds. It looks like it will be self limiting. I am going to order a metal barrel lock and barrel clamp, and probably an extra strength mag spring as they seem to be a weakness of the shotgun. View Quote Good call. Thats anything and everything this shotgun really needs. |
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My A300UP came with a 2 piece plastic magazine tube cover. So, not only is it a plastic cover, but it's also in 2 pieces .
I got a Realtree Trace Blue model. Had no velcro in the box. Besides those small issues, it's a lightweight and nice shotgun. Immediately ordered a GG&G aluminum magazine tube cover, which includes their barrel clamp (no MLok or rail, just a no frills clamp, with their logo on it). Nice stuff and fits just right. I'll avoid adding anything to a barrel clamp anyway, like a QD or a light. The handguard has 3 spots for that stuff. Sometimes less is more, like on a 7.5 lb shotgun. If you want to mount a tube style flashlight or a WML brand, Arisaka has the nicest options IMO. Except their tube light/MLok mount is out of stock everywhere. Bought mine 5 yrs ago and never used it. Glad I had it. Also bought a Grovetec QD mount for the stock, on the right side. Haven't had the nerve (or time, yet) to drill into the plastic stock on my new $1k+ shotgun. With Realtree camo all over it. LOL. I did notice Beretta has the QD mount (at 6 oclock, on the stock) protruding a bit. Maybe for a stronger bite for a QD. eta I did just get a new Milwaukee FUEL 12v drill/driver, the newest model ("with pistons inside"), supposedly the smoothest drill/driver available The Surge (it's stubby)I had burned up my old model and upgraded before I purchased my A300. You'll want to get a hex style 1/2" drill bit to drill for a Grovetec/Noveske QD mount. |
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Give a thumbs up to GG&G I had an issue with my mount they took care of me .
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Originally Posted By Skar: Give a thumbs up to GG&G I had an issue with my mount they took care of me . View Quote Their customer service is pretty good because it kind of has to be. They handle a lot of issues. The hardware they use is really soft and strips easily. I ended up replacing my GG&G RMR mount with a Scarlarworks mount after stripping one of the cheap hex screws that came with the GG&G mount. It stripped under 10inch lbs. |
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Originally Posted By MK318: Their customer service is pretty good because it kind of has to be. They handle a lot of issues. The hardware they use is really soft and strips easily. I ended up replacing my GG&G RMR mount with a Scarlarworks mount after stripping one of the cheap hex screws that came with the GG&G mount. It stripped under 10ft lbs. View Quote Attached File |
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Went to my lgs today to do some trading on a cz shadow to for an a300 and they weren't able to find one. Said they got put on some list and that hopefully they should be able to have one within the week. Weren't able to come up with a 1301 either. I really wanted to start on a spr build but a tactical shotgun is calling my name now.
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View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Marksman14: Originally Posted By MK318: Their customer service is pretty good because it kind of has to be. They handle a lot of issues. The hardware they use is really soft and strips easily. I ended up replacing my GG&G RMR mount with a Scarlarworks mount after stripping one of the cheap hex screws that came with the GG&G mount. It stripped under 10ft lbs. /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/Uh_yeah-652.gif Hanaha. Good catch. I meant inch not foot. Attached File |
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Well mine is on it's way back to Beretta. About 40 rounds in today the bolt locked back and seized. Bolt release wouldn't budge. I used gorilla strength and it dropped. About 15 rds. later it did it again, wouldn't budge and I had enough. 120 rds. total.
And I ain't happy. |
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Originally Posted By greyeyezz: Well mine is on it's way back to Beretta. About 40 rounds in today the bolt locked back and seized. Bolt release wouldn't budge. I used gorilla strength and it dropped. About 15 rds. later it did it again, wouldn't budge and I had enough. 120 rds. total. And I ain't happy. View Quote I've read of people having that issue and the fix (not that you should have to fix a brand new gun) is to sand the tip of the plastic bolt release cover so the release can be pushed in just the tiny bit more it needs to release the bolt. |
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The accumulated filth of all their sex and murder will foam up about their waists and all the whores and politicians will look up and shout "Save us!"... and I'll look down, and whisper "No."
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Originally Posted By c7aea15: Was your bolt release cover hitting the receiver? I've read of people having that issue and the fix (not that you should have to fix a brand new gun) is to sand the tip of the plastic bolt release cover so the release can be pushed in just the tiny bit more it needs to release the bolt. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By c7aea15: Originally Posted By greyeyezz: Well mine is on it's way back to Beretta. About 40 rounds in today the bolt locked back and seized. Bolt release wouldn't budge. I used gorilla strength and it dropped. About 15 rds. later it did it again, wouldn't budge and I had enough. 120 rds. total. And I ain't happy. I've read of people having that issue and the fix (not that you should have to fix a brand new gun) is to sand the tip of the plastic bolt release cover so the release can be pushed in just the tiny bit more it needs to release the bolt. That bolt release cover is a weak point. They used some really cheap plastic. They break really easily and I guess some don’t have all the flashing removed so it’s causing some guns to lock back under recoil. The fix is to sand down or cut that flashing that is causing the release lever to ride high. Better yet replace it with an Aridus release cover. Aluminum, in spec, won’t fly off. https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/bbr/ |
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The bolt release was all the way up. It would not budge as in frozen, no movement at all.
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Originally Posted By greyeyezz: The bolt release was all the way up. It would not budge as in frozen, no movement at all. View Quote Beretta will take care of it. I know it is frustrating. Beretta moved to Tenn a few years ago and all their US made guns seem to suffer from a higher percentage of quality control misses. The current US made Berettas are not on the level that the Maryland guns were and certainly aren’t on the level of the Italian Berettas. That said every company releases a lemon every now and then. I’ve had to send S&W, HK, Colts and a Springfield back and I’ve been to Glocks Smyrna factory more times than I can remember. What I am saying is, don’t let this issue sour you on a great gun which the majority of A300UPs have been. |
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Originally Posted By MK318: That bolt release cover is a weak point. They used some really cheap plastic. They break really easily and I guess some don’t have all the flashing removed so it’s causing some guns to lock back under recoil. The fix is to sand down or cut that flashing that is causing the release lever to ride high. Better yet replace it with an Aridus release cover. Aluminum, in spec, won’t fly off. https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/bbr/ View Quote I refuse to spend $75 on something that I expect beretta should take care of. I am sure that the aluminum one is stronger, but this is also the first I am hearing of these breaking. |
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I should have pulled the barrel and looked in the receiver when I was taking my Mlock stuff off, maybe debris got in there while I was shooting.
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Is there a cheaper option than that $75 one (doesn't have to be US made or oversized)? Will a 1301 release work in an A300? I agree, $75 for a bolt release (prob close to $100 w/ shipping) is ridiculous. I'd expect something more in the $20 - $30 range tops.
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Originally Posted By Blain: Is there a cheaper option than that $75 one (doesn't have to be US made or oversized)? Will a 1301 release work in an A300? I agree, $75 for a bolt release (prob close to $100 w/ shipping) is ridiculous. I'd expect something more in the $20 - $30 range tops. View Quote The fix is to sand down or cut that flashing that is causing the release lever to ride high. If you plan on replacing it later anyways, try that first. See if it helps |
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Originally Posted By Mindfull: The fix is to sand down or cut that flashing that is causing the release lever to ride high. If you plan on replacing it later anyways, try that first. See if it helps View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Mindfull: Originally Posted By Blain: Is there a cheaper option than that $75 one (doesn't have to be US made or oversized)? Will a 1301 release work in an A300? I agree, $75 for a bolt release (prob close to $100 w/ shipping) is ridiculous. I'd expect something more in the $20 - $30 range tops. The fix is to sand down or cut that flashing that is causing the release lever to ride high. If you plan on replacing it later anyways, try that first. See if it helps He said the plastic was "cheap and fragile" and leads to breaks. Why wouldn't I want to replace it if I owned that gun? It's not just a mechanical issue, it's a wholly substandard part with a history of integral failure! |
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Originally Posted By Blain: He said the plastic was "cheap and fragile" and leads to breaks. Why wouldn't I want to replace it if I owned that gun? It's not just a mechanical issue, it's a wholly substandard part with a history of integral failure! View Quote I get it, I would change it out as well. I was just stating that you can try what was posted about trimming or cutting it to see if it helped alleviate any issues. *i thought you were the op, thats who I thought I was responding to* my point to the op was that you can try the fix posted to see if that fixes your problem before spending $100 on something that might not fix his issue. |
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My issue has nothing to do with too much plastic on the lever. Something is seized internally.
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Originally Posted By greyeyezz: My issue has nothing to do with too much plastic on the lever. Something is seized internally. View Quote Yeah it sounds like something else is going on with yours. As for the release, the release is just a metal bar on top of that bar is the plastic rectangle you see. It slides over that bar and clips into place. The clip can and do sometimes break, the cover comes off. The gun is still plenty functional you just don’t have as much meat to use to drop the bolt. https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?32621-Check-your-1301T-bolt-release This is why I said to shoot more above. When you start running your gun hard at classes or training, the weak points start to show themselves. I can’t speak for the A300UP since I don’t own one but some of the parts are the same on the 1301. I’ve rung the 1301 out as have others, there aren’t many issues but the bolt release cover is one area. |
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I have this barrel nut and clamp coming https://www.gggaz.com/beretta-a300-replacement-magazine-tube-cover-with-m-lok-barrel-clamp.html, now I just need a mag spring I suppose.
I assume a Wolff spring would be fine? |
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A true Texan would never leave his friends behind!
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Originally Posted By colklink: I have this barrel nut and clamp coming https://www.gggaz.com/beretta-a300-replacement-magazine-tube-cover-with-m-lok-barrel-clamp.html, now I just need a mag spring I suppose. I assume a Wolff spring would be fine? View Quote Yes, Wolff is the go to. |
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Originally Posted By MK318: Yes, Wolff is the go to. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MK318: Originally Posted By colklink: I have this barrel nut and clamp coming https://www.gggaz.com/beretta-a300-replacement-magazine-tube-cover-with-m-lok-barrel-clamp.html, now I just need a mag spring I suppose. I assume a Wolff spring would be fine? Yes, Wolff is the go to. Thank you sir. Although, through 100 rounds so far its been 100%. But I did disassemble and clean it for the first time. They really went chincy on the barrel/mag tube nut and clamp. |
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A true Texan would never leave his friends behind!
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Originally Posted By colklink: Thank you sir. Although, through 100 rounds so far its been 100%. But I did disassemble and clean it for the first time. They really went chincy on the barrel/mag tube nut and clamp. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By colklink: Originally Posted By MK318: Originally Posted By colklink: I have this barrel nut and clamp coming https://www.gggaz.com/beretta-a300-replacement-magazine-tube-cover-with-m-lok-barrel-clamp.html, now I just need a mag spring I suppose. I assume a Wolff spring would be fine? Yes, Wolff is the go to. Thank you sir. Although, through 100 rounds so far its been 100%. But I did disassemble and clean it for the first time. They really went chincy on the barrel/mag tube nut and clamp. The factory spring is okay and it should serve you well for a few thousand rounds. The extra power spring is just nice to have since it seems to last longer and discharges shells onto the lifter with some authority which is what you want when your gun gets dirty and or wet. You want that spring to over come any dirt or debris. I like the ability to easily remove or replace the extended tube if it gets damaged and it makes cleaning them much easier, this is why I am not a fan of the single piece tubes that Beretta went to on the 1301 and A300. The polymer cover that is covering the mag tube is pretty cheap feeling and some people have already cracked them when they get cold. An aluminum cover is probably the best option. The GG&G option is probably fine, looks wise I kind of like the Nordic Comp version. When I pick up another 1301 it will probably be a Mod 2 and I’ll go that route with the NC cover. Beretta likes to cover metal with polymer. They do that with a lot of their parts, not just the A300 or 1301 but other designs like the CX4, PX4, 92 series, all have polymer covered metal. I guess it helps with corrosion but it also can make a gun feel cheap. https://nordiccomp.com/categories/beretta-1301-aluminum-tactical-tube/ |
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Originally Posted By MK318: The factory spring is okay and it should serve you well for a few thousand rounds. The extra power spring is just nice to have since it seems to last longer and discharges shells onto the lifter with some authority which is what you want when your gun gets dirty and or wet. You want that spring to over come any dirt or debris. I like the ability to easily remove or replace the extended tube if it gets damaged and it makes cleaning them much easier, this is why I am not a fan of the single piece tubes that Beretta went to on the 1301 and A300. The polymer cover that is covering the mag tube is pretty cheap feeling and some people have already cracked them when they get cold. An aluminum cover is probably the best option. The GG&G option is probably fine, looks wise I kind of like the Nordic Comp version. When I pick up another 1301 it will probably be a Mod 2 and I'll go that route with the NC cover. Beretta likes to cover metal with polymer. They do that with a lot of their parts, not just the A300 or 1301 but other designs like the CX4, PX4, 92 series, all have polymer covered metal. I guess it helps with corrosion but it also can make a gun feel cheap. https://nordiccomp.com/categories/beretta-1301-aluminum-tactical-tube/ View Quote Stock: Attached File Nordic: Attached File GG&G: Attached File |
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The accumulated filth of all their sex and murder will foam up about their waists and all the whores and politicians will look up and shout "Save us!"... and I'll look down, and whisper "No."
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Originally Posted By c7aea15: I originally bought the GG&G version. When I got my second 1301 I bought the Nordic version. I liked the Nordic one so much more I bought another one to replace the GG&G version I had. The Nordic cover definitely looks nicer and is quite a bit lighter (40%). Stock: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/300501/IMG_5279_jpeg-3204353.JPG Nordic: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/300501/IMG_5280_jpeg-3204354.JPG GG&G: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/300501/IMG_5281_jpeg-3204356.JPG View Quote Not too concerned about the weight. The shotgun feels like a toy as it is. I figure it has to be more durable than the stock one. |
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A true Texan would never leave his friends behind!
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New Beretta A 300 ultimate patrol I shot 10 rounds of federal 3” rifle 1 ounce slugs to make sure ghost rings sights we’re OK . Then I mounted a Holoson 507c red dot and then the following day I shot 20 more of the same slugs to zero in the red dot .
1) gun cycle fine all 30 rounds. 2) recoil is a ***** even with a auto . 3) After range I cleaned gun holly crap was it filthy . 4) Is this unburnt powder Or lead from rifle slug . Not used to shooting slugs. Guessing lead 🤷♂️ Liquid is WD-40 and brass brush scrapings Attached File Attached File |
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Have any lefty’s been able to swap the safety?
It’s not the same as a 1301. |
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...Amongst the 1911 poors...
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Originally Posted By m4nut: Yup, no problem at all swapping it over. At this point, the stock, safety and sling are lefty friendly View Quote I must be doing something wrong. In all the videos I’ve watched, after you removed the set screw, spring and detent, it should fall out(one a 1301). Mine will not. I haven’t taken a punch and a hammer to it, but pushing as hard as I can, or manipulating it any way I can think of, it won’t come out. It’s still retained by something. |
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It took a bit of force.
Didn't just fall out. |
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...Amongst the 1911 poors...
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Got my GG&G barrel nut and clamp today, that was fairly fast. Seems like decent quality, certainly more durable than the plastic stuff it replaced.
At some point I will get an mlock flashlight mount. |
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A true Texan would never leave his friends behind!
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For those of you looking for a pro lifter, Beretta has them back in stock. https://www.beretta.com/en-us/product/pro-lifter-1301-tactical--a300-C7C940
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Originally Posted By MK318: For those of you looking for a pro lifter, Beretta has them back in stock. https://www.beretta.com/en-us/product/pro-lifter-1301-tactical--a300-C7C940 View Quote Ordered. |
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Originally Posted By colklink: Got my GG&G barrel nut and clamp today, that was fairly fast. Seems like decent quality, certainly more durable than the plastic stuff it replaced. At some point I will get an mlock flashlight mount. View Quote From experience, mounting a light on the barrel clamp isn’t a great idea. The clamp ends up sliding down the barrel under recoil, marring up your barrel and magtube cover. I don’t know if the Nordic cover has a lip on it but the Nordic extension has a slight edge that helps to keep the clamp locked in place under recoil with a light mounted but even then the clamp starts to peen that small lip. You can put a thin rubber gasket under the clamp which will help add some friction but in my experience the gasket doesn’t even hold up really. Eventually that clamp with a light mounted will start to slide forward. Without a light mounted it will be fine. I’d recommend using the factory handguard mlok slots or upgrade to the GG&G or Aridus Zhukov handguard which gives you more mounting options. Aridus just released their V2 handguard which is more refined, opening up the two rear MLOK slots completely and adding MLOK slots to the adapter. I upgraded my Zhukov handguard with the V2 parts. It moved my light up and further forward. I’m not really happy with my wire routing solution, I saw on Reddit where someone drilled two holes in the new adapter piece which allows the wire to run between the barrel and mag tube which is how I had my old set up. I am probably going to do that mod this weekend when I have time. Attached File Attached File Attached File While on the subject of upgrades, Mesa Tacticals Urbino stock is compatible with the A300 now. It’s not a bad stock, I had one on my Gen 1 1301 because back then that was the only aftermarket option. It has a nice LOP, gives you some sling options as well as a cheek riser for using optics and a limbsaver recoil pad. It is a bit heavy but with a light mounted forward, it kind of helps shift the weight to the rear of the gun and makes it balance better. The grip is the only part I didn’t like. It is big and wide. I have standard size medium hands, the grip feels like it was made for someone with gorilla hands. Still though it is a better option than the factory stock IMO. https://www.shootingwire.com/releases/e779eb44-c668-45f4-bab7-9c6d15f42046 |
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