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Posted: 5/10/2024 1:29:16 PM EDT
I have a RC2 that is perfectly centered on two other rifles. I recently built a new upper and mounted it and it seems slightly off. I tried two different SF flash hiders and torqued to 25 ft lbs. I’m sure my measurements with a caliper a machinist square and level aren’t that precise. But it seems there is still .050 clearance minimum on the “tighter” side. I’m not sure if the end cap hole diameter is the same a the entire baffle stack though. Question is if anyone sees a problem or risk in shooting it, I.e. risk of a baffle strike?
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MN, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 1:58:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Diesel1979]
[#1]
An alignment rod pic would work wonders for a visual.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 2:13:00 PM EDT
[#2]
https://www.instagram.com/p/C6y9qusue77/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
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MN, USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 2:15:53 PM EDT
[#3]
Looks good to me
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Posted: 5/10/2024 2:17:07 PM EDT
[#4]
I'd shoot it.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 2:18:51 PM EDT
[#5]
Send it
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USA
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Posted: 5/10/2024 2:20:30 PM EDT
[#6]
Send it!
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Posted: 5/10/2024 4:44:02 PM EDT
[#7]
Ok, thanks for the answers. I think it my ocd but I just hate when something isn’t right. Surely the bore wasn’t dialed in concentric before the threading. I plan to buy a lathe soon so maybe I’ll cut down a 14.5 Socom then and adjust the port size. Seems like the only way to get close to perfect is to do it yourself these days.
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Posted: 5/10/2024 5:06:50 PM EDT
[#8]
Has anyone ever used the precision armament accu washer with surefire mounts successfully? It aligned slightly better with just the beveled spacer so I’m thinking fewer shims may be better. Or just use the beveled one torque and forget about where it indexes. Thoughts?
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Posted: 5/11/2024 11:48:24 PM EDT
[#9]
GTG
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Posted: 5/12/2024 9:40:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Green0]
[#10]
When I turn my brightness all the way up, I can see the bore behind the tapered flash suppressor hole in the cap and the rod is basically touching that. I would figure that host out and shoot it when it is more properly mounted and aligned.
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Posted: 5/22/2024 5:03:43 PM EDT
[#11]
Thanks everyone! I don’t think my ocd will let me leave it alone. Folllow up question, other than aesthetics is there any need to time a surefire pronged flash hider? It aligns better with just the beveled spacer so I’m thinking I’ll just use that and torque with rocksett. I don’t really care about having the index notch at bdc or about where the prongs orient. I’m pretty much going to leave the can on so is there anything I’m overlooking?
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Posted: 5/22/2024 7:27:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Green0]
[#12]
There is no need to time a flash hider. My wallet wouldn't let me shoot a fucked misaligned can like that. I don't need depressing shit in my life and that is very likely to strike (if that rod is straight aka indicating correctly).
You could also cut thin shims with a scissors to 120 degree segments and use one opposite the side that has the near contact with the can bore, and it will push the alignment in the direction of center. |
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Posted: 5/22/2024 8:45:07 PM EDT
[#13]
So I’ve actually shot around 100 rounds through it and there’s no baffle strikes. Both surefire and Centurion arms said based on the picture alignment should be good to go. However, it kinda looks slightly worse with the rod now after those rounds. The thread fit is pretty “sloppy” or has more wobble than I’ve noticed on other rifles. The suppressor mounts perfectly to multiple other rifles so I think the can its self is good. Gonna try the beveled spacer by itself with a new flash hider (it’ll be the third one I've bought) and forget about timing it.
Thanks! |
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Posted: 5/22/2024 9:10:45 PM EDT
[#14]
Maybe gravity is that extra push that is causing the rod to touch in the photo.
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NC, USA
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Posted: 5/23/2024 6:48:29 AM EDT
[#15]
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Posted: 5/23/2024 11:22:21 AM EDT
[#16]
Do it
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