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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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[#2]
Love the bling.
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Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
[#3]
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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[#5]
Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Four hours and seven 40-grit discs later, the first sanding is almost complete. I spent some time on the top of all the the intersections that will be under the top, to take down any high spots and make it all as level and flat as possible. I need to get out the triangle-head detail sander and finish up the spots that were too tight for the random orbital (second pic). There were a lot of big chips that had to be removed and sanded down (third pic). I don't expect the other sanding runs to take nearly as long. I sanded everything. The bottom of the feet, the parts of the frame that will be covered with plywood ... everything. I'll keep doing so, too. I like sanding. I always have. My 30-year old B&D random orbital sander worked like a champ. I couldn't be happier with it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/Bench_after_1st_Sanding_40-grit-3209035.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/Bench_after_1st_Sanding_40-grit_Detail_2-3209033.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/Bench_after_1st_Sanding_40-grit_Detail_1-3209034.jpg\ View Quote Will look much better than the hole. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
[#6]
Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Four hours and seven 40-grit discs later, the first sanding is almost complete. I spent some time on the top of all the the intersections that will be under the top, to take down any high spots and make it all as level and flat as possible. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/Bench_after_1st_Sanding_40-grit-3209035.jpg View Quote You most definitely got your stuff together AND well sorted out sir. You have much better workmanship skills than you give yourself credit for... |
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[#7]
Originally Posted By dryflash3: Get some wood filler to fill those holes. Let dry, sand off smooth. I like the Minwax that comes in a squeeze tube. Will look much better than the hole. View Quote Thanks! I have some Minwax filler in a tub. I'll get right on that as soon as I finish with 40-grit in the small sander for the spots I could get with the larger sander. 1) I should do that before I use the 80-, 120-, and possibly 220-grit, right? 2) I'm also planning to use filler in the screw head countersinks unless there's a reason I shouldn't? |
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
[#8]
Originally Posted By Aaron56: You most definitely got your stuff together AND well sorted out sir. You have much better workmanship skills than you give yourself credit for... View Quote Thank you very much, sir. You are very kind. I'm kind of surprised it turned out so well. I'm happy with the result even if it took three starts to get it squared away. I need to stay patient while I get the rest done. |
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
[#9]
Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Thanks! I have some Minwax filler in a tub. I'll get right on that as soon as I finish with 40-grit in the small sander for the spots I could get with the larger sander. 1) I should do that before I use the 80-, 120-, and possibly 220-grit, right? 2) I'm also planning to use filler in the screw head countersinks unless there's a reason I shouldn't? View Quote Your filler is fine. Keep lid closed tightly, as filler will dry out fast. Why I like the squeeze tube = no filler loss due to dry out. 2. That is what is normally done on higher end finishes. Fill, dry, sand smooth with 40 grit. One thing to remember before staining, any visible scratch will show through the stain/Poly. Not like build up primer when doing body work on a car. The way I apply stain, starting on the bottom to get the hang of it, brush on a small section, wipe stain around until it's absorbed. No puddles. Repeat. Once stain is done on bottom flip bench over and do the top. Not going to effect the bottom of the legs you will never see. I like to let stain dry overnight and start poly the next day. For you it will be install shelfs, stain shelfs. I would install top last. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
[#10]
Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Thank you very much, sir. You are very kind. I'm kind of surprised it turned out so well. I'm happy with the result even if it took three starts to get it squared away. I need to stay patient while I get the rest done. View Quote Now you are past that. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
[#11]
Originally Posted By dryflash3: 1. Filler, then 40 grit. Finer grit takes too long to take it down. Your filler is fine. Keep lid closed tightly, as filler will dry out fast. Why I like the squeeze tube = no filler loss due to dry out. Roger that. Thanks! I should fill in all the cracks and such in the knots too, right? I sanded down the roughest spots with the 40-grit but there are still some places where there are still depressions. I know I could spackle it on using a putty knife but it would cover up the grain of a large enough are to notice. 2. That is what is normally done on higher end finishes. Fill, dry, sand smooth with 40 grit. Check. While my bench may not be worthy of a high-end finish, I'd like to try to give it one so I can learn how to do it.I've painted a gazillion things and maybe stained one, around 1976 or so, LOL. One thing to remember before staining, any visible scratch will show through the stain/Poly. Gotcha. I'll go over it wit a fine tooth comb when I'm putting on the filler. Not like build up primer when doing body work on a car. Which is like using grout on a ceramic tile job to hide minor alignment problems. So stain and poly is like skin-tight clothes, eh? No place to hide. Thanks. The way I apply stain, starting on the bottom to get the hang of it, brush on a small section, wipe stain around until it's absorbed. No puddles. Repeat. Roger, copy. I'm actually looking forward to that step. There's something Chán (Zen) about it that appeals to me. Like sanding. Once stain is done on bottom flip bench over and do the top. Not going to effect the bottom of the legs you will never see. I like to let stain dry overnight and start poly the next day. I should get all the staining done in one session, right? For you it will be install shelfs, stain shelfs. I would install top last. That makes sense, thanks. I'm going to double-layer the bottom shelves with 3/4" ply and melamine, just like the top. And trim the edges of the ply with furring strips like the top. Between that and the additional brace I added on your suggestion, they should be able to hold a bunch of weight. View Quote |
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
[#12]
I should have sanded some of the lumber before installing it. The space in between the double braces on either side of each leg is too small for my detail sander too. I'm going to try a flap wheel on a drill and if that doesn't work, it will be an old-school sanding block job. It shouldn't be too bad except for that exceptionally dark lumber stamp in the photo above. The darker it is, the deeper it goes.
Oh well, it is what it is. No sense crying when I could just get 'er done. |
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#13]
Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Originally Posted By dryflash3: 1. Filler, then 40 grit. Finer grit takes too long to take it down. Your filler is fine. Keep lid closed tightly, as filler will dry out fast. Why I like the squeeze tube = no filler loss due to dry out. Roger that. Thanks! I should fill in all the cracks and such in the knots too, right? I sanded down the roughest spots with the 40-grit but there are still some places where there are still depressions. I know I could spackle it on using a putty knife but it would cover up the grain of a large enough are to notice. 2. That is what is normally done on higher end finishes. Fill, dry, sand smooth with 40 grit. Check. While my bench may not be worthy of a high-end finish, I'd like to try to give it one so I can learn how to do it.I've painted a gazillion things and maybe stained one, around 1976 or so, LOL. One thing to remember before staining, any visible scratch will show through the stain/Poly. Gotcha. I'll go over it wit a fine tooth comb when I'm putting on the filler. Not like build up primer when doing body work on a car. Which is like using grout on a ceramic tile job to hide minor alignment problems. So stain and poly is like skin-tight clothes, eh? No place to hide. Thanks. The way I apply stain, starting on the bottom to get the hang of it, brush on a small section, wipe stain around until it's absorbed. No puddles. Repeat. Roger, copy. I'm actually looking forward to that step. There's something Ch n (Zen) about it that appeals to me. Like sanding. Once stain is done on bottom flip bench over and do the top. Not going to effect the bottom of the legs you will never see. I like to let stain dry overnight and start poly the next day. I should get all the staining done in one session, right? For you it will be install shelfs, stain shelfs. I would install top last. That makes sense, thanks. I'm going to double-layer the bottom shelves with 3/4" ply and melamine, just like the top. And trim the edges of the ply with furring strips like the top. Between that and the additional brace I added on your suggestion, they should be able to hold a bunch of weight. You only want filler in the holes. Fill a knot, it will be real noticeable. Experiment on a piece of scrap. Myself I fill them. Where to stop? Do bottom, let dry, do top next time. Just don't stop half way down a board, finish that board. The old "keep a wet edge". Bottom shelfs; 3/4 is overkill. 2 layers is crazy. I would use 3/8 or 1/2 inch, But if all you have is 3/4, use it. One layer, that's why you added the brace. Yes furring strips to hide the plywood/melamine end grain is mandatory on this quality of build. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
[#14]
Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: I should have sanded some of the lumber before installing it. The space in between the double braces on either side of each leg is too small for my detail sander too. I'm going to try a flap wheel on a drill and if that doesn't work, it will be an old-school sanding block job. It shouldn't be too bad except for that exceptionally dark lumber stamp in the photo above. The darker it is, the deeper it goes. Oh well, it is what it is. No sense crying when I could just get 'er done. View Quote My goal is to do everything 100% perfect. Since I'm not perfect, I normally fall in the 90-95% range. Which is way above average, and that makes me happy. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
[#15]
Originally Posted By dryflash3: You only want filler in the holes. Fill a knot, it will be real noticeable. Experiment on a piece of scrap. Myself I fill them. Where to stop? Do bottom, let dry, do top next time. Just don't stop half way down a board, finish that board. The old "keep a wet edge". Bottom shelfs; 3/4 is overkill. 2 layers is crazy. I would use 3/8 or 1/2 inch, But if all you have is 3/4, use it. One layer, that's why you added the brace. Yes furring strips to hide the plywood/melamine end grain is mandatory on this quality of build. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dryflash3: You only want filler in the holes. Fill a knot, it will be real noticeable. Experiment on a piece of scrap. Myself I fill them. Where to stop? Do bottom, let dry, do top next time. Just don't stop half way down a board, finish that board. The old "keep a wet edge". Bottom shelfs; 3/4 is overkill. 2 layers is crazy. I would use 3/8 or 1/2 inch, But if all you have is 3/4, use it. One layer, that's why you added the brace. Yes furring strips to hide the plywood/melamine end grain is mandatory on this quality of build. Great information and tips, thanks! I will have more than half the 4' x 8' sheets of both 3/4" and melamine remaining after I make the top, so I have plenty of both. I think I'll use the plywood for it and save the melamine for who-knows-what. It's still a few days down the road but should I finish the furring strips before attaching or after, please? quality of build. High praise indeed. Thank you! |
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
[#16]
Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Great information and tips, thanks! I will have more than half the 4' x 8' sheets of both 3/4" and melamine remaining after I make the top, so I have plenty of both. I think I'll use the plywood for it and save the melamine for who-knows-what. It's still a few days down the road but should I finish the furring strips before attaching or after, please? High praise indeed. Thank you! View Quote On my bench, after trim was installed, I then stained & poly'd. Masked off the top. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
[#17]
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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[#19]
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Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
[#20]
Originally Posted By dryflash3: I use similar bins for sorting brass and bullets. https://i.imgur.com/aYBTalCl.jpg I put a piece of blue masking tape where label goes and label with a sharpie. https://i.imgur.com/r6KaQgSl.jpg Or make labels for a pic. View Quote Nice. Very organized. As usual with you. I will do the same, to be sure. |
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
[#21]
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Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
[#22]
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
[#23]
All of the 9mm brass from the most recent haul has been cleaned too. There's even more of it than last time. Maybe more than 6,000 9mm cases.
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
[#24]
Target stands are nice. Just don't let new shooters destroy it 'cause they can't stay on the paper.
Voice of experience. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
[#25]
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
[#26]
Originally Posted By dryflash3: Target stands are nice. Just don't let new shooters destroy it 'cause they can't stay on the paper. Voice of experience. View Quote FYI, I'll also be using them to shoot the rest of the 55 grain VMAX loads you helped me load during training, at 100 yards. So I'll know what to do next to finish developing that load. |
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
[#27]
Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: FYI, I'll also be using them to shoot the rest of the 55 grain VMAX loads you helped me load during training, at 100 yards. So I'll know what to do next to finish developing that load. View Quote |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
[#28]
Originally Posted By dryflash3: If your rifle is sighted in at 100 yds, you View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: FYI, I'll also be using them to shoot the rest of the 55 grain VMAX loads you helped me load during training, at 100 yards. So I'll know what to do next to finish developing that load. Fixed it. |
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[#29]
Originally Posted By dryflash3: If your rifle is sighted in at 100 yds, you will not hit your frames. View Quote The first thing I'll be using them for ... is sighting in three sets of MBIUs, two prisms, a red dot, and an LVPO ... at 100 yards. Though I may have access to a gong at 100 yards and could get them close enough to that before switching to my stands. |
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
[#30]
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
[#32]
Not shown, but you did sand the filler flush after it dried?
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Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
[#33]
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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[#34]
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Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
[#35]
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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[#36]
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Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
[Last Edit: Cascade-Dude]
[#37]
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
[#38]
Sanding overkill, but your bench won't be out of place with living room furniture.
Filler looks good. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
[#39]
Originally Posted By dryflash3: Sanding overkill, but your bench won't be out of place with living room furniture. Filler looks good. View Quote Thanks! I'm learning a lot, so its all good. I've always been a paint guy because it's easier. It's far past time I learned how to stain and poly. |
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
[#40]
Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Thanks! I'm learning a lot, so its all good. I've always been a paint guy because it's easier. It's far past time I learned how to stain and poly. View Quote Grab a scrap (no sanding) stain, let dry overnight. At least a 6 inch length of 2x4 or something. Next day, apply 1st coat of poly over dried stain. Next day a LIGHT sanding with 220 grit, remove dust. 2nd coat of poly. Sanding is to take off JUST the fibers that stuck up when drying. Do not remove any stain. Next day a very LIGHT sanding with 220 grit, remove dust, 3rd coat of poly. Next day, done. This will let you see why it's a 4 step (stain, 3 coats of poly) process for best results. You can keep adding coats of poly, but this is a workbench. It will look great with 3 coats of poly. Looks pretty good after 2 coats of poly, but that 3rd coat is worth it. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
[#41]
Originally Posted By dryflash3: You will get there. Grab a scrap (no sanding) stain, let dry overnight. At least a 6 inch length of 2x4 or something. Next day, apply 1st coat of poly over dried stain. Next day a LIGHT sanding with 220 grit, remove dust. 2nd coat of poly. Sanding is to take off JUST the fibers that stuck up when drying. Do not remove any stain. Next day a very LIGHT sanding with 220 grit, remove dust, 3rd coat of poly. Next day, done. This will let you see why it's a 4 step (stain, 3 coats of poly) process for best results. You can keep adding coats of poly, but this is a workbench. It will look great with 3 coats of poly. Looks pretty good after 2 coats of poly, but that 3rd coat is worth it. View Quote Thanks! I'm assuming that the sanding of the poly coats is by hand and not using any sort of sander, right? |
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
[#42]
Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Thanks! I'm assuming that the sanding of the poly coats is by hand and not using any sort of sander, right? View Quote LIGHT hand sanding. Just enough to take down the fiber spikes pointing up. Use your hand rubbed over the board to see what I'm talking about. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
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