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Posted: 4/19/2024 9:27:10 AM EDT
[#1]
Thanks! I'm pleased with it too. It will likely be next week before I get back to it, sadly.
Meanwhile, the 9mm brass cleaning continues. With this last batch, I do believe I'm over the halfway mark. Each batch is two scoops of the smaller yellow bins. It's going to take me awhile to sort them. There are a lot of headstamps in there. It will be good for me, though. Builds character.  The Franklin tumbler is a workhorse and their media separator is a well-engineered doo-dad. Great recommendation! Thanks! 
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Posted: 4/19/2024 1:03:39 PM EDT
[#2]
I just wanted to mention that the PSD (PMC Xtac) brass is good stuff.
The primer pockets are all going to be crimped on those, so be sure to address that. My personal favorite .223 headstamps are PMC, LC, PSD. In that order. LC for heavier loads though. I also like SPEER brass but only use it for my Gold Dot loadings in 9mm and .223. I prefer the nickel plated brass for those loads. The GFL (Fiocchi) is decent, but I mostly use it for blaster ammo that I use for 3gun and long gun competitions. FC gets relegated to load once and leave on the ground, for the most part. |
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Posted: 4/19/2024 1:33:13 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Thanks! I'm pleased with it too. It will likely be next week before I get back to it, sadly. Meanwhile, the 9mm brass cleaning continues. With this last batch, I do believe I'm over the halfway mark. Each batch is two scoops of the smaller yellow bins. It's going to take me awhile to sort them. There are a lot of headstamps in there. It will be good for me, though. Builds character. The Franklin tumbler is a workhorse and their media separator is a well-engineered doo-dad. Great recommendation! Thanks! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/9mm_Cleaning-3191953.jpg |
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Posted: 4/22/2024 12:49:45 PM EDT
[#4]
9mm brass is all clean. Now comes the sorting. I'm going to do it in batches, with one batch being the blue bin filled up to the front lip. I'm not sure how many cases that will be but I'm guessing a couple-three hundred.
No rest for the Franklin tumbler, though. As I took out the last of the 9mm range brass, I filled it back up with some of the 223, 300, and 6.5 Grendel I fired over the weekend. It's been running pretty-much 24 x 7 for five days. No hiccups, no heat coming from it. It just works.  
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Posted: 4/24/2024 9:11:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Cascade-Dude]
[#5]
Reloading Bench Frame 3.0 is almost done. Square, flat, level, an true. All I have left to do is build the cross-braces from the rear bottom, then remove the cross-braces, one at a time, and glue them into place. I'm glad I stuck with it rather than spending a bunch of money or compromising on what I wanted to build.
It's heavy and rigid. Sits flat on all eight legs. If that remains true once it's bolted into place, I'm not going to put the levelers on it.  The "Press Box." Once the top is on and the steel plate is in place, the press will mount in the exact center of the two right-most legs and associated braces. Once bolted to the wall, it's hard to imagine how it will be able to flex. 
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Posted: 4/24/2024 9:23:06 PM EDT
[#6]
Finishing questions, please?
The wood is oozing sap. 1) Should I wait for it to stop to finish it? 2) Is there something I can use to seal it so I can finish it now? 3) Should I clean it off somehow before I sand it, to prevent gunking up of the sandpaper? If so, how, please? I plan on spending a fair bit of time on it with my orbital sander, starting with 80-grit. The wood is rough and needs a lot of cleaning up. Then I'll follow up with 120 to smooth it out some. Then ... I'll start on the process described earlier in this thread by Dryflash3. |
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Posted: 4/24/2024 9:26:13 PM EDT
[#7]
124 #10 Wood Screws so far, by the way.
For each one, I drilled the appropriate-sized hole of one size and the smaller pilot hole to measured depth, then drilled a countersink for the head. I know didn't have to but I wanted to do it for reasons I don't understand. Maybe just for the experience. So I did. It's sure going to make sanding easier. |
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USA
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Posted: 4/24/2024 9:30:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Trollslayer]
[#8]
When I built my bench, I used 2X4 and 4X4 lumber stacked and face-glued together with multiple 3/4" diameter threaded rods from the front to the rear. I machined the top surface flat to remove the non-uniformities from board-to-board. It is 8 feet long.
It has two woodworking vises permanently incorporated into the wooden top (flush). It easily supports my presses, which can be removed/replaced via the threaded inserts in the benchtop. Making benches is very rewarding. They are the most important tool in your shop. If it does not sit flush on the floor, consider sets of shims under the legs, rather than adjustable feet. Insert them in pairs; get everything level, then remove any the excess shim length. |
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Posted: 4/24/2024 9:38:34 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Trollslayer: When I built my bench, I used 2X4 and 4X4 lumber stacked and face-glued together with multiple 3/4" diameter threaded rods from the front to the rear. I machined the top surface flat to remove the non-uniformities from board-to-board. The threaded rods ran through holes you drilled through the stacks? That sounds extremely sturdy. Feel free to post a pic if you have one and don't mind. My skill level with wood is with stuff like building sheds, porches, decks, window treatments, and so on. I'm used to making things fit with a 24 ounce framing hammer. It took me three tries to adjust my barbaric methods and get this thing straight and true. We're remodeling a big house and I scavenged the lumber for this from that. Maybe not the best for the job but as far as my reloading budget is concerned, it was free lumber. |
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Posted: 4/24/2024 11:33:00 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Finishing questions, please? The wood is oozing sap. 1) Should I wait for it to stop to finish it? 2) Is there something I can use to seal it so I can finish it now? 3) Should I clean it off somehow before I sand it, to prevent gunking up of the sandpaper? If so, how, please? I plan on spending a fair bit of time on it with my orbital sander, starting with 80-grit. The wood is rough and needs a lot of cleaning up. Then I'll follow up with 120 to smooth it out some. Then ... I'll start on the process described earlier in this thread by Dryflash3. I would think it's because wood is now in a heated area and it will stop oozing eventually. No guess as to when. 2. These is a Minmax product to be used pre staining. It's supposed to minimize color differences between the various boards. I tried it, didn't think it did much, so have 3/4 of a quart unused for 15 years now. 3. If you try to clean it off, I would try Turpentine first. Yes the swap will clog sandpaper fast. Try 36 grit if you attempt this. I would start with 40 grit if the wood is that bad. So 40 grit to start, 80, then 120. If you want the best finish go to 220 last. So when going to 80 grit, sand until 40 grit scratches are gone, Then with 120 grit, go until 80 grit scratches are gone, ect. Bench looks good, glad we were able to turn bench around and get it so that nasty knot on the 2x4 could be cut out. Just thought of something, take some pics of the oozing sap. |
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Posted: 4/25/2024 7:47:06 AM EDT
[#11]
About 35 minutes of sorting to sort one batch of 9mm brass. A batch being that blue container filled halfway, to the front lip. I figure I have about four more of these batches to get it all done, so maybe 2.5 to 3 hours total. That's not nearly as long as I expected.
33 different headstamps so far. I was warned. The larger quantities are RIM, S&B, Speer, WIN, CBC, and Blazer. Blazer, FC, GFL, and X-TREME round out the second tier. Still, it is a learning experience. I'm keeping the nickel-plated stuff separated even when it has the same headstamp as non-nickel brass. Not sure why but it seems like the thing to do. 
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Posted: 4/25/2024 7:57:07 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: 1. Not much experience with that, as never used wood that oozed sap. That stuff was sorted out and left behind at Lowes. I would think it's because wood is now in a heated area and it will stop oozing eventually. No guess as to when. 2. These is a Minmax product to be used pre staining. It's supposed to minimize color differences between the various boards. I tried it, didn't think it did much, so have 3/4 of a quart unused for 15 years now. 3. If you try to clean it off, I would try Turpentine first. Yes the swap will clog sandpaper fast. Try 36 grit if you attempt this. I would start with 40 grit if the wood is that bad. So 40 grit to start, 80, then 120. If you want the best finish go to 220 last. So when going to 80 grit, sand until 40 grit scratches are gone, Then with 120 grit, go until 80 grit scratches are gone, ect. Bench looks good, glad we were able to turn bench around and get it so that nasty knot on the 2x4 could be cut out. Just thought of something, take some pics of the oozing sap. Thanks! I'll start with 40. A couple of the spots that are easiest to photograph, on top of the legs. These will be entirely covered up so I'm not sure if I even need to worry about it. On the 2x4s, I tried to put the sappy spots towards the inside or bottom. This lumber came off a full truck delivery order of multiple pallets. As such, I wasn't able to pick my sticks, so to speak. I also had no idea I'd be using it for this when I ordered it.  
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Posted: 4/25/2024 12:17:16 PM EDT
[#13]
Coming from the end grain, and not that much,
Don't waste time sanding end grain. (what you see at the end of the board) Not going to show anyway, and it's not getting any finish. So pretty much a "don't worry about it" kind of thing. Glad you don't have pitch pockets on the sides of the boards. That would need board replaced. |
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USA
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Posted: 4/25/2024 3:15:54 PM EDT
[#14]
... or wipe it off using acetone. It is sticky.
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MS, USA
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Posted: 4/27/2024 9:48:27 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Finishing questions, please? The wood is oozing sap. 1) Should I wait for it to stop to finish it? 2) Is there something I can use to seal it so I can finish it now? 3) Should I clean it off somehow before I sand it, to prevent gunking up of the sandpaper? If so, how, please? I plan on spending a fair bit of time on it with my orbital sander, starting with 80-grit. The wood is rough and needs a lot of cleaning up. Then I'll follow up with 120 to smooth it out some. Then ... I'll start on the process described earlier in this thread by Dryflash3. It's framing lumber - not furniture grade lumber. 
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Posted: 4/27/2024 11:03:49 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aaron56: It's framing lumber - not furniture grade lumber. Yep. |
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MS, USA
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Posted: 4/27/2024 12:19:50 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/Bench_3_0_Frame_Complete-3197129.jpg The way you seem to have carefully lined up your legs from front to back made your frame really, really easy to add drawer boxes / rails to it later on if that is something you wanted to do. Very solid looking build that should last forever. |
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Posted: 4/27/2024 12:39:14 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aaron56: The way you seem to have carefully lined up your legs from front to back made your frame really, really easy to add drawer boxes / rails to it later on if that is something you wanted to do. Very solid looking build that should last forever. Thanks! It took every bit of woodworking skill I have just to get this frame straight and level. Building drawers seems like something akin to building a moon rocket to me but who knows. Maybe some day.  For now, the plan is to make the outer sections of the bottom frame into shelves and sheath them with thin plywood. |
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Posted: 4/27/2024 1:05:22 PM EDT
[#19]
Drawers aren't that hard.
But get bench done before worrying about drawers |
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Posted: 4/27/2024 1:15:20 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Drawers aren't that hard. But get bench done before worrying about drawers Aye aye! I hope to have the time to finish off the lower frame and start sanding today. After I put every single piece of reloading gear into sealed bins and hang drop cloths over the front of the shelves. I don't have anywhere else to work on the bench due to all the remodeling. Sawdust and reloading gear don't seem like they'd get along very well. |
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Posted: 4/27/2024 2:52:21 PM EDT
[#21]
Remember all the covers on my reloading tools?
Not a big deal, just brush off bench top and remove covers on tools and go to loading. |
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Posted: 4/27/2024 2:55:51 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Remember all the covers on my reloading tools? Not a big deal, just brush off bench top and remove covers on tools and go to loading. Indeed, I do. The press, trimmer, and powder measure are all covered in plastic and the scale is still in its box. I put all of the brass I'm sorting away when I'm not sorting it too. May as well keep it clean since I went to all the trouble of cleaning it, as my mentor taught me. Thanks! |
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Posted: 4/28/2024 1:58:22 PM EDT
[#23]
Bench frame is complete. I like it. It's solid as a rock. It certainly has enough materials in it.
43 feet of 2x4 22 feet of 4x4 140 #10 wood screws A third of a bottle of carpenter's glue Next up: Gluing the last three pieces in place, then sanding the frame. I'll work the roughest spots with a rasp, then start with 40 grit on the orbital for the heavy work, then 80, 120, and maybe 220. I figure it will be easier to sand the frame without anything else on it. Questions about finishing, please: I have been mentally planning to finish the entire frame, to protect the wood and, perhaps, give it a nice, long, lifespan. My SIL is a firearms enthusiast and would likely give it a good home after I'm gone. Q1: Is this too much overkill? Q2: If I don't finish the entire frame, what parts should I leave unfinished? The top of the legs is one already mentioned. My overall plan is to finish the frame, then add the top, then the plywood panels on all four sides, then the trim on the edge of the top, then finish the plywood and trim. This is mostly to make it easy to finish the interior of the frame, which I want to do to protect the wood from whatever it is I store down there. Good plan? Bad plan? Suggestions for imprevement? Thanks! 
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Posted: 4/28/2024 2:32:08 PM EDT
[#24]
Last paragraph is best plan.
I would add a brace on the bottom shelf in the middle. Both sides Parallel to the front and rear supports This is where you should store heavy items to stabilize the bench. Also, when you go to stain, invert bench, do bottoms of boards. Then turn right side up, and complete staining. With 100 percent staining you will never see a unfinished support and you will have a sense of pride for years Also somewhere underneath, put you name and a date. My bench sports a 1998 date. |
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Posted: 4/29/2024 8:44:37 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Last paragraph is best plan. Thanks! I would add a brace on the bottom shelf in the middle. Both sides Parallel to the front and rear supports Will do. Good call! This is where you should store heavy items to stabilize the bench. Also, when you go to stain, invert bench, do bottoms of boards. Copy all. WILCO. Then turn right side up, and complete staining. With 100 percent staining you will never see a unfinished support and you will have a sense of pride for years Sounds good to me! Also somewhere underneath, put you name and a date. Will do. My bench sports a 1998 date. Very nice. It's aged well. I never would have guessed. Replies above, in blue. |
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Posted: 4/29/2024 9:18:20 PM EDT
[#26]
9mm brass sorted. Whew. That's a chore. I'm glad I did it, though.
Each bag is a headstamp, except for the one bag labelled "1 each." That bag contains headstamps for which there was only one case. The part that keeps me humble is the yellow bin filled with mistakes. .40 cases I missed, .380 cases I missed, and the 9mm cases that were inside the .40 cases and didn't get properly blinged.  Next up, I'm going to weigh each and estimate the number of cases based on the metric of 113 cases to the pound that I found online. After that, I'm going to figure out what to do with them. Ideally, the headstamps with the most quantity, RMI, S&B, CBC, and WIN, are good to go headstamps for self-defense loads. If so, I'll put them in storage and use them for building a 9mm stockpile after a) we have a 9mm pistol or PCC and b) I've worked up the loads for them. I'll hold onto the rest of it for now too. I'm planning on getting several more batches of range brass. I expect to get more of the headstamps I already have. Then, at some point, package up what i don't want to keep in batches of 50 or 100 of the same headstamp for barter currency. I didn't find any cases I would call "cupped." I found a few with primer strikes that went all the way through the metal of the primer and left a hole behind. The primer still seems to have done its job though.  Q1: Is there anything I should be concerned about with cases that have holes in the primer? My guess is not but I prefer actual knowledge over my own guesses. I also found several cases that had a uniform indent in the case all they way around the circumference. I found more Speer cases with this than any other headstamp but it wasn't present on all cases of any headstamp. My guess is this is a crimp but again, I don't like relying on guesses with things that go boom. Q2: It this a bullet crimp?  I also found one case with a headstamp that just read "9mm" and nothing else. Weird. The primer deformation also looks weird but maybe that's just my inexperienced eye. 
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Posted: 4/29/2024 10:41:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: 9mm brass sorted. Whew. That's a chore. I'm glad I did it, though. Each bag is a headstamp, except for the one bag labelled "1 each." That bag contains headstamps for which there was only one case. The part that keeps me humble is the yellow bin filled with mistakes. .40 cases I missed, .380 cases I missed, and the 9mm cases that were inside the .40 cases and didn't get properly blinged. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/9mm_Brass_Sorted-3201613.jpg Next up, I'm going to weigh each and estimate the number of cases based on the metric of 113 cases to the pound that I found online. After that, I'm going to figure out what to do with them. Ideally, the headstamps with the most quantity, RMI, S&B, CBC, and WIN, are good to go headstamps for self-defense loads. If so, I'll put them in storage and use them for building a 9mm stockpile after a) we have a 9mm pistol or PCC and b) I've worked up the loads for them. I'll hold onto the rest of it for now too. I'm planning on getting several more batches of range brass. I expect to get more of the headstamps I already have. Then, at some point, package up what i don't want to keep in batches of 50 or 100 of the same headstamp for barter currency. I didn't find any cases I would call "cupped." I found a few with primer strikes that went all the way through the metal of the primer and left a hole behind. The primer still seems to have done its job though. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/Holed_Primers-3201639.jpg Q1: Is there anything I should be concerned about with cases that have holes in the primer? My guess is not but I prefer actual knowledge over my own guesses. I also found several cases that had a uniform indent in the case all they way around the circumference. I found more Speer cases with this than any other headstamp but it wasn't present on all cases of any headstamp. My guess is this is a crimp but again, I don't like relying on guesses with things that go boom. Q2: It this a bullet crimp? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/Crimp_Ring_Maybe-3201640.jpg I also found one case with a headstamp that just read "9mm" and nothing else. Weird. The primer deformation also looks weird but maybe that's just my inexperienced eye. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/No-Name_Headstamp-3201638.jpg If primer pocket looks normal, I would load it. 2. That is called a cannelure. Some brands have them, some don't. Means nothing when you reload them. 3. No headstamp. Stealth ammo used by military special forces? My guess, I have some in several military calibers. Saw you had some Aquila. From Mexico......has very, very tight primer pockets. Just like S&B. If I have a few, I scrap them. A bunch, then remove crimp and uniform primer pocket. Only time I "saved" some was in 10mm, 600 cases. Good brass once you fix the primer pocket. Also beware of the mil cases that are crimped. Once crimp is removed they go into the mixed brass loads. Like I posted previously, I save Win, RP, and FC. All other headstamps go into mixed brass blasting load. And of course in any caliber, americ goes straight into scrap bucket. Garbage brass. |
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Posted: 4/30/2024 1:10:11 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: 1. What does the primer pocket look like? Who cares that the primer was pierced, you will toss it in the scrap bucket anyway. If primer pocket looks normal, I would load it. 2. That is called a cannelure. Some brands have them, some don't. Means nothing when you reload them. 3. No headstamp. Stealth ammo used by military special forces? My guess, I have some in several military calibers. Saw you had some Aquila. From Mexico......has very, very tight primer pockets. Just like S&B. If I have a few, I scrap them. A bunch, then remove crimp and uniform primer pocket. Only time I "saved" some was in 10mm, 600 cases. Good brass once you fix the primer pocket. Also beware of the mil cases that are crimped. Once crimp is removed they go into the mixed brass loads. Like I posted previously, I save Win, RP, and FC. All other headstamps go into mixed brass blasting load. And of course in any caliber, americ goes straight into scrap bucket. Garbage brass. Thanks. I remembered that you had mentioned three headstamps but I hadn't gone back though the thread to find them. Win: 311 cases FC: 192 cases RP: 42 I was hoping some of the larger quantities would work for home defense but apparently not: RMI: 2,294 cases S&B: 1,750 cases Blazer: 480 cases Speer: 300 cases Looks like I'll have plenty of cases for blasting and barter but need to keep gathering cases for the stockpile. Looks like well over 5,000 9mm cases all told. Much more than I expected. |
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Posted: 4/30/2024 4:55:42 PM EDT
[#29]
Another 60 pounds of range brass magically appeared in my truck today. I better get to work.
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Posted: 4/30/2024 6:09:33 PM EDT
[#30]
It didn't take long to sort out 300x .223 cases for the tumbler. My first run with walnut. The used corn cob is in a labelled bag now.
There's a lot of .357 brass in there; more more than the last batch. I even spotted several Starline .357 cases. |
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Posted: 4/30/2024 9:52:01 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Also beware of the mil cases that are crimped. Once crimp is removed they go into the mixed brass loads. Like I posted previously, I save Win, RP, and FC. All other headstamps go into mixed brass blasting load. Question, please? What is it about these three headstamps that differentiates them from all the rest? Why do you trust these three for self-defense but not the others? Not questioning your advice; just wanting to understand. Thanks! |
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Posted: 4/30/2024 10:57:44 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Thanks. I remembered that you had mentioned three headstamps but I hadn't gone back though the thread to find them. Win: 311 cases FC: 192 cases RP: 42 I was hoping some of the larger quantities would work for home defense but apparently not: RMI: 2,294 cases S&B: 1,750 cases Blazer: 480 cases Speer: 300 cases Looks like I'll have plenty of cases for blasting and barter but need to keep gathering cases for the stockpile. Looks like well over 5,000 9mm cases all told. Much more than I expected. Never heard of RMI, S&B...beware very tight primer pockets. |
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Posted: 4/30/2024 11:02:11 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Question, please? What is it about these three headstamps that differentiates them from all the rest? Why do you trust these three for self-defense but not the others? Not questioning your advice; just wanting to understand. Thanks! Off the top of my head, 3 50 cal cans of Win, 3 of FC, and 2 of RP. Nothing wrong with PMC, blazer or CCI. |
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Posted: 5/1/2024 12:00:20 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: They are not the only good cases, I just had so many of them I didn't need anything else to save. Off the top of my head, 3 50 cal cans of Win, 3 of FC, and 2 of RP. Nothing wrong with PMC, blazer or CCI. Wow! Cool. Thanks for the explanation. It makes sense to me. It's fairly academic for now since we don't have any 9mm firearms. That's likely going to change this year, though. For now, they're cleaned and sorted and that's where they'll stay while I get the bench completed, everything set up and a fair bit of 223 reloading done.
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Posted: 5/1/2024 12:10:06 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Never heard of RMI I found this and they certainly seem quite proud of their brass. It's hard to tell of they are actually made by RMR or of they're reselling them. RMR Web Site, RMI Brass I looked for factory loads using RMI brass and all I found was American Patriot ammunition. I don't know anything about them. Kind of interesting that I got almost 2,300 cases of them in one bucket of range brass and they seem to be so obscure. It will be interesting to see if I get a bunch more of them in the batch of brass I picked up today. |
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Posted: 5/1/2024 1:57:08 AM EDT
[#36]
I sorted another third of the range brass by caliber for the rifle cases and dumped all the pistol cases into one container. It's looking like I'm on track to get another 700 to 800 223 cases and another 150-200 .300 BLK cases. I got some 30-30 too, which I haven't really expected to find. And a handful of 5.7 pistol cases. Cute little things.
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Posted: 5/1/2024 3:26:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: I found this and they certainly seem quite proud of their brass. It's hard to tell of they are actually made by RMR or of they're reselling them. RMR Web Site, RMI Brass I looked for factory loads using RMI brass and all I found was American Patriot ammunition. I don't know anything about them. Kind of interesting that I got almost 2,300 cases of them in one bucket of range brass and they seem to be so obscure. It will be interesting to see if I get a bunch more of them in the batch of brass I picked up today. So no americ. ANY CALIBER, pure junk. I don't capitalize the name out of disrespect.  Remember I showed you samples.Sort out Aquila and S&B due to very, very tight primer pockets. Save for rainy day or for sale/trade. Look for "step" cases, sort them out. Look into clean case, you will clearly see the step. Anything else should be just fine. As you go you will develop your favorites, you know mine. eta, read my post in WYDIRT, what you did in reloading today thread. |
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Posted: 5/1/2024 9:49:25 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Ok. RMI is probably just fine. Cool. Good news. So no americ. ANY CALIBER, pure junk. I don't capitalize the name out of disrespect. Remember I showed you samples. Done. Sort out Aquila and S&B due to very, very tight primer pockets. Save for rainy day or for sale/trade. Roger that. Look for "step" cases, sort them out. Look into clean case, you will clearly see the step. Anything else should be just fine. As you go you will develop your favorites, you know mine. eta, read my post in WYDIRT, what you did in reloading today thread. I saw that before i saw this. That's some serious big boy reloading stuff there, my friend. Salute. Comments above. |
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Posted: 5/1/2024 9:52:12 PM EDT
[#39]
I haven't got out the stuff cleaned with cob to compare them directly but the walnut doesn't seem to get it quite as shiny. Is this normal or am I doing it wrong?
Braces added to bottom frame, rasp work completed, started on the course sanding smoothing transitions, cleaning up the roughest sawmill cuts, removing lumber stamps, etc. |
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Posted: 5/1/2024 11:37:59 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: I haven't got out the stuff cleaned with cob to compare them directly but the walnut doesn't seem to get it quite as shiny. Is this normal or am I doing it wrong? Braces added to bottom frame, rasp work completed, started on the course sanding smoothing transitions, cleaning up the roughest sawmill cuts, removing lumber stamps, etc. So walnut before sizing, corn cob to clean off lube and get the bling. |
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Posted: 5/2/2024 11:24:59 PM EDT
[#41]
The walnut really tears into the serious grunge that's coating a lot of the range brass. That's why I'm using it, isn't it?
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Posted: 5/3/2024 8:40:14 AM EDT
[#42]
I'm pleased with the amount of rifle cases I got from the second batch of range brass. Maybe 800x 223 cases, 150x 300 BLK, about 20 .308, a dozen .30-30, 2x 7.62x39, and one 300 HAM'R.
 This stuff came came out of some of the cases. It's like miniature sponges. I'm guessing it's a filer material to take up space in loads that don't fill the brass? 
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Posted: 5/3/2024 12:43:43 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: The walnut really tears into the serious grunge that's coating a lot of the range brass. That's why I'm using it, isn't it? |
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Posted: 5/3/2024 12:47:10 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: I'm pleased with the amount of rifle cases I got from the second batch of range brass. Maybe 800x 223 cases, 150x 300 BLK, about 20 .308, a dozen .30-30, 2x 7.62x39, and one 300 HAM'R. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/2nd_Batch_Rifle_Cases-3204321.jpg This stuff came came out of some of the cases. It's like miniature sponges. I'm guessing it's a filer material to take up space in loads that don't fill the brass? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/Packing_Maybe-3204320.jpg No idea why you are finding those. |
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USA
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Posted: 5/3/2024 6:23:11 PM EDT
[#45]
That's coal, to give the powder charge extra burn power.
Seriously though, I have never seen anything like that. Asphalt sealant maybe? But why in lumps? Strange... |
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Posted: 5/5/2024 12:41:00 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JoeDevola: That's coal, to give the powder charge extra burn power. Seriously though, I have never seen anything like that. Asphalt sealant maybe? But why in lumps? Strange... So ... it's from Steam Punk ammo? They feel like little sponges. And they're actually like little semi-square-off little donuts. I think I'll soak some in ISO and see if black is their natural color. Just out of curiosity. |
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Posted: 5/5/2024 12:49:18 AM EDT
[#47]
I used a rasp on the rougher areas of the reloading bench, so they won't tear up the sandpaper. Then I glued up the last couple of braces I added the other day. Wile waiting for the glue to dry, I sorted the pistol brass from the second haul of range brass. I'm very pleased with the number of .357 cases, for my own use, and the nice pile of .45 ACP brass. There's 5 pounds of .45 brass and the chart I used says 78 cases to the pound, which calculates to 390. The more brass I put in the barter locker, the happier I am.
I'm guessing there's at least another 4,000 9mm cases in there. They're adding up fast. .45 ACP is going into the tumbler as soon as I post this. 
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MS, USA
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Posted: 5/5/2024 10:48:15 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: I used a rasp on the rougher areas of the reloading bench, so they won't tear up the sandpaper. Then I glued up the last couple of braces I added the other day. Wile waiting for the glue to dry, As stout as your construction was / is - You did not 'need' any glue at all. If the glue does actually stick anything (doubtful due to the sap and materials) it will work against you as far as the bench 'settling' to fit your floor after you load it down with weight. Suppose it fits the floor perfectly where you have it at now and you move it at a later date to a different spot on the floor or a different location? If nothing is able to move at all (even under a ton of weight) it is not likely to fit the floor in the different area. The legs in the middle make it even less likely to fit any other floor down the road... Pretty sure a nuclear bomb could fall right next to your house dropping the entire thing directly on top of your bench and it will NOT move, flex, or otherwise be bothered by the additional weight... If you decide to add any drawers later on shoot me your sizes in a PM and I will slip your parts in the next time I crank out a batch. (you assemble said parts) Cheaper to send parts vs assembled boxes due to size of package being shipped and not a big deal to add a couple of anything to a big pile already being run up...    Shipping would be on you but materials on me. Would be happy to help you out sir.
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Posted: 5/5/2024 11:45:38 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aaron56: As stout as your construction was / is - You did not 'need' any glue at all. If the glue does actually stick anything (doubtful due to the sap and materials) it will work against you as far as the bench 'settling' to fit your floor after you load it down with weight. Suppose it fits the floor perfectly where you have it at now and you move it at a later date to a different spot on the floor or a different location? If nothing is able to move at all (even under a ton of weight) it is not likely to fit the floor in the different area. The legs in the middle make it even less likely to fit any other floor down the road... Pretty sure a nuclear bomb could fall right next to your house dropping the entire thing directly on top of your bench and it will NOT move, flex, or otherwise be bothered by the additional weight... If you decide to add any drawers later on shoot me your sizes in a PM and I will slip your parts in the next time I crank out a batch. (you assemble said parts) Cheaper to send parts vs assembled boxes due to size of package being shipped and not a big deal to add a couple of anything to a big pile already being run up... https://i.imgur.com/UhLCY1M.jpg https://i.imgur.com/6VOmPt7.jpg https://i.imgur.com/UyeDcYn.jpg Shipping would be on you but materials on me. Would be happy to help you out sir. The use of glue and screws was my advice. Almost every woodworking project I build uses glue. Maybe the flush dovetails on your drawers don't need glue, but I have always glued my dovetails. My first couple of benches were nailed only, the lap joints came loose over time. So by bench 4, I was screwing and gluing. On bench 6 right now, it was built in 1997, still very secure. OP was in my shop learning reloading and bench building. He is copying mine with some changes to make it what he wants. |
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Posted: 5/5/2024 1:20:40 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aaron56: As stout as your construction was / is - You did not 'need' any glue at all. If the glue does actually stick anything (doubtful due to the sap and materials) it will work against you as far as the bench 'settling' to fit your floor after you load it down with weight. Suppose it fits the floor perfectly where you have it at now and you move it at a later date to a different spot on the floor or a different location? If nothing is able to move at all (even under a ton of weight) it is not likely to fit the floor in the different area. The legs in the middle make it even less likely to fit any other floor down the road... Pretty sure a nuclear bomb could fall right next to your house dropping the entire thing directly on top of your bench and it will NOT move, flex, or otherwise be bothered by the additional weight... If you decide to add any drawers later on shoot me your sizes in a PM and I will slip your parts in the next time I crank out a batch. (you assemble said parts) Cheaper to send parts vs assembled boxes due to size of package being shipped and not a big deal to add a couple of anything to a big pile already being run up... https://i.imgur.com/UhLCY1M.jpg https://i.imgur.com/6VOmPt7.jpg https://i.imgur.com/UyeDcYn.jpg Shipping would be on you but materials on me. Would be happy to help you out sir. Thanks! Especially for the validation of the anti-flex features. I have eight adjusting feet, each capable of holding 600 pounds, in case it needs to be levelled. It's so flat now, I'm not going to put them on but if it does change, I'll add them. I would be more than happy to take you up on your drawers offer. That's very generous of you, Sir. Thank you! Once I have it completed, I'll contact you via PM. |
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