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Posted: 5/11/2024 2:51:14 PM EDT
picked up a bunch of gun/reloading stuff from a family friend’s late uncle’s estate.
There’s around 45lbs of commercial cast pistol bullets I’d like to re-cast for fire forming brass and plinking for the 7-30 waters TC contender I got out of it. I don’t know jack about casting. I read about boiling the lube off the bullets before melting, and then see stuff about sizing, lubing, powder coating, gas check, etc. For fire forming brass, do I need to do any of that stuff or is just shooting the raw lead I re-cast ok?? |
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Posted: 5/11/2024 3:06:55 PM EDT
[#1]
Are the bullets you have lubed?
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Posted: 5/11/2024 3:10:43 PM EDT
[#2]
Pretty sure they are
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PA, USA
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Posted: 5/11/2024 3:44:06 PM EDT
[#3]
Fireforming brass you will be dollars ahead selling what you have and buying what you need.
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Posted: 5/11/2024 4:03:32 PM EDT
[#4]
I would if 7-30 waters brass was available. The lot of stuff I got included 20k primers and 10-15lbs of various powders for next to nothing, so I am still way ahead
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IA, USA
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Posted: 5/11/2024 5:36:13 PM EDT
[#5]
no need to remove lube. it will act as a flux to help clean up the lead. Just make sure to do it outside. Once the lead is hot enough lite the smoke on fire to get rid of the smoke and to create a o2 free area to reduce and contaminates.
Then cast what you need |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 5/11/2024 10:50:43 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Shlouf: I would if 7-30 waters brass was available. The lot of stuff I got included 20k primers and 10-15lbs of various powders for next to nothing, so I am still way ahead What I mean is it will be cheaper to sell the cast bullets you have and buy 7mm commercial cast bullets sufficient to fire form the brass you want than to buy a complete bare bones casting set up to make your own. Now if you would plan to continue to shoot cast after the initial fire form, then the casting equipment will amortize. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 12:54:49 AM EDT
[#7]
I convert 30-30 brass to 7-30 Waters.
If you don't want to lose cases to neck cracks, anneal before running 30-30 case into the 7-30 Waters size die to form. When you fire form, that when the cracks appear on un annealed cases. I haunt the funshows and buy up partial boxes of 7mm jacketed bullets. Used everything from 110 grs to 175 gr bullets (all jacketed) I got good accuracy with Hornady 139 gr Spirt Point bullets with case forming loads. For fire forming loads I use up partial cans of powder and load the "start" load for a fire forming load. For what you will spend for a casting furnace, mold, sizing die, lube, you will be money ahead just buying some 7mm jacketed bullets. Also your lack of casting experience also points to you buying jacketed bullets. I'm shooting these loads in a 10 inch Contender barrel, and just added a rifle barrel in 7-30 Waters. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 10:22:58 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bigdb1: What I mean is it will be cheaper to sell the cast bullets you have and buy 7mm commercial cast bullets sufficient to fire form the brass you want than to buy a complete bare bones casting set up to make your own. Now if you would plan to continue to shoot cast after the initial fire form, then the casting equipment will amortize. I gotcha. I could definitely see myself getting into casting long term. The lot of stuff I got came with a nib Lee casting furnace as well. I’m at like $75 now for a cheap lee mold, sizing die, and some lube. I’ve definitely spent way more on projects that didn’t pan out before. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 10:26:59 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: I convert 30-30 brass to 7-30 Waters. If you don't want to lose cases to neck cracks, anneal before running 30-30 case into the 7-30 Waters size die to form. When you fire form, that when the cracks appear on un annealed cases. I haunt the funshows and buy up partial boxes of 7mm jacketed bullets. Used everything from 110 grs to 175 gr bullets (all jacketed) I got good accuracy with Hornady 139 gr Spirt Point bullets with case forming loads. For fire forming loads I use up partial cans of powder and load the "start" load for a fire forming load. For what you will spend for a casting furnace, mold, sizing die, lube, you will be money ahead just buying some 7mm jacketed bullets. Also your lack of casting experience also points to you buying jacketed bullets. I'm shooting these loads in a 10 inch Contender barrel, and just added a rifle barrel in 7-30 Waters. On the contender, how far off the lands are you loading? The only 7mm I had on hand was some 139 SST and accuracy wasn’t great |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 1:13:51 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Shlouf: On the contender, how far off the lands are you loading? The only 7mm I had on hand was some 139 SST and accuracy wasn't great |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:41:20 PM EDT
[#11]
I fire-form and load 7-30 Waters for a Super 14 Contender.
If you use lead bullets, you will need to either gas check them or powder coat, both of which add cost. You already have a furnace and raw materials, so now you need a sizer die (Lee) and molds and, most importantly, the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. Get it and read it before melting the first bit of lead. Regarding fire-forming: Annealing is your brass' friend. I set the length to just touch the lands to ensure I get firm seating and a full forming. No need to suffer a lotta recoil- use a starting load of whatever appropriate powder for available bullet. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 3:01:05 PM EDT
[#12]
Annealing doesn't take an expensive machine.
How I anneal using common tools and Templaq. https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Low-budget-Annealing/42-439440/ |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 3:06:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FB41]
[#13]
I use a buddy's induction annealer and do a sackful at a time.
Might try templac some day but so far how I do it has worked. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 5:10:38 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FB41: I use a buddy's induction annealer and do a sackful at a time. Might try templac some day but so far how I do it has worked. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 5:45:46 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: If you are starting from zero like OP, it helps you to not overheat cases. Been annealing cases for about 25 years now. Haven't overheated any since I got the method down pat, but anther tool in the box is always a good thing. |
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